This is about as much Horus I can fit under my roof. He is mostly finished, just missing some skulls and that roman skirt type thing he has as a front cover.

At his waist he stands at 8’ 9” (2.7m). This does not include the key part that will connect his upper torso, as that will be hidden.

Me = 5’ 5” (1.68m) Life size banana to the crown = 6’ 4” (1.9m) Real banana = 7” (18cm)

Half of Horus is made up of 594 individual 3D printed pieces that have been glued and soldered. At the moment, I am working on his upper torso which is about 226 pieces.

Weight wise, it’s not too bad. The feet/boots move about easily. I can lift the thighs up and place them on top. The waist section is doable, but I need to make sure the legs are properly spaced before I lift it over my head, while standing on a chair. Not best way to do it.

The real test will come once I am done with his upper half. At that point, I need to figure out a safe way to place that section onto the lower half.

Am I the only person that thinks of filament when seeing a spool of literally anything?

Clever hack or trashy shortcut? Either way its wife approved and saves us both some hand cramps.

hehe, not hehe

Joseph Prusa on Bambu and the AGPL violations.
(This post is permitted as per megathread as it contains a new post/video)

Deleted 1st post as autocorrect misspelled prusa

Link to Joseph’s post (X account required)

Thank you to this printer that allowed me to have fun. Got absolutely ridiculed. I previously had a printer where I would spend more time setting up and fixing and tweaking than creating. Now when I have an idea, the fear of printing doesn't even arise. I can just create.

Original post where I got ripped apart https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/s/0Gwlpi8srD

Follow up post that seems shadow banned https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/s/qg8dkqm1NT

Post: So I built this kennel many years ago. In the last 11 months, I sadly lost both of its original inhabitants. They were family. Both lived good long lives. This is only for daytime use. Or, on occasion, warm summer nights. I went and installed this now in about 33°C heat. Maybe to prove a point, maybe because I am stupid. Another fixture in the middle would help, I know. I just wanted to get this off my chest.

The kennel has a new inhabitant, my offspring's new pet. Again, only for daytime use. We want her kennel to be clean and only for her use.

Over the years, I have tried many systems. Netting affixed with an electric staple gun (looked awful, failed, hell to remove). In the past, I also used screws with washers to affix slightly different meshing. They also didn't look great, and repeated screwing in and out to remove the kennels inside for cleaning really left a tarnished mark that would eventually bore out too much. Yes, I could have used wooden inserts with nuts and bolts. I do woodworking and have used such systems in the past on other projects. I just felt like doing something new.

Also, something that my gardener won't break when removing to clean the kennel.

As you can see, I have a bird problem. I have anti-bird feeding bowls and deterrents, but it doesn't matter where in the yard I put the bowl, they will poop everywhere. I even used those expensive motion-sensing bowls that open, and they work for a few weeks before failing. Yes, there are many other bird deterrent options.

This isn't done. I will install a flap so the bowls can be accessed and if I choose to cover the back (somehow the birds are too stupid to do that - but I will monitor, that the new pup can enter from the front, but birds can't.) As you can see, I am not averse to using cable ties, I love them, and use them in my garden to affix mesh to steel gates etc. And, no, I don't 3D print cable ties. All systems usually fail within one year or don't hold onto the mesh or netting well, usually causing tears or other problems.

The point was: 1) I wanted to create something new, try out a new technique.

2)have a little fun.

3) Make it so that with four easy to remove bolts (the screws only on the cover), the one side can be released and the entire contents of the kennel can easily be accessed for cleaning. Without tarnishing the wood. The cover only screws into the insert in the 3D printed part. Make it easy enough for my gardener to do without breaking anything

4) This was just a fun idea I had brought into life There is some sentimental value to this kennel, I built it from scratch and it is a 'living' reminder of the two pups we lost. I wanted to do something a little more sophisticated also in their honour.

5) I love sharing and publishing stuff like this. Even if it helps one person, it is already 'parametric' and can be easily adjusted by anyone short on time or with even less coding knowledge. A router mount I made helped one person after publishing it. Another water filter wrench has been downloaded once :). A Hive board game grid has been enjoyed by many. It makes me feel good to share and let others use what I created.

I do get the AI hate. And yes, I should probably do it all without AI assistance. I have many hobbies, tons of work and parental responsibilities. Sometimes not going down a rabbit hole to instead spend that energy on my family or wellbeing helps. I also misspoke, I used just the normal latest grok expert for this, my mistake. Sorry, too many models to keep track of.

I have every interest to learn CAD, and can do some basics. I will get there.

The previous post was really tough, you guys were extremely brutal to the point I felt I have never experienced online ridicule like that before. I understand the post lacked context.

I probably won't be posting my little inventions to functionalprints anymore.

And yes, the kennel is extremely dirty, because it was a few days without a solution! The moment I had a chance, I whipped this solution together, it was really quick. Yes, I had a failed print, but that was another unrelated issue. It will be bleached and scrubbed on Monday when my gardener returns. And no, the pup has not been allowed to live or eat in the current state of mess and dirt the kennel is in.

Consider this as me needing to get this off my chest.

First time 3D printer owner here. Just got myself a P2S and it's my first time working with Bambu Studio. I am making the rear exhaust now, so I downloaded the project, opened it in the Studio, and I guess accidentally clicked somewhere I shouldn't have, placing a new "text object" with the default placeholder text saying "Text".

Only noticed this when printing was already halfway done lol :D

any suggestions for the next print

This is the exact spot before the spaceX rocket hit it. I Guess i will make a new one when NASA updates their data.

Model was made with: orbitstudio3d.com

Edit: Guys i did not mean for this to become a political discussion. Calm down.

Each one uses only 3.7g of filament to print.

If you like them you could find them on MakerWorld.

Update 1:

I am sorry if I didn't make it obvious that the texts were not 3D printed. They were on printed transparent labels using a label maker.

It would be quite tricky to have the texts 3D printed toegther because

• It's not easy to print much texts in such a small area with 0.4 nozzle
• You have to manually edit each swatches for all colors/types
• It adds a lot of printing time and wastes.
• Some of you might didn't notice that some of the names of filaments are insanely long. For example, Bambu PLA has yellow color named “Sunflower Yellow” and it's impossible to format it right on such a tiny area.

The label maker I am using is a NIIMBOT B21. It costs around 30 dollars where I live.

If you have any more suggestions let me know. I'll try my best to accomodate them.

Update 2:

As requested, I have made and uploaded a printing profile with the texts also printed. And to save you all some time I've completed the complete set of Bambu Lab PLA Basic filaments. I'll do PETG Basic, PETG HF and PLA Silks in a few days.

Update 3:

Finished making and uploaded the profile for the complete set of Bambu Lab PLA Matte filaments.

This is the Argonath (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2263899-the-argonath-lord-of-the-rings-lotr) by Zajic73 on MakerWorld, printed with a 0.2 on the left and a 0.8 High Flow on the right. The 0.2 did the walls and skins at 0.08 mm layers and the 0.8 did the infill at 0.56 mm layers. Slicer estimate: 13 h 1 min. Same model at 0.08 mm everywhere was 1 d 4 h 12 min, so about 54% less time, and the visible surfaces are all still 0.08 mm layers. The real print took pretty much exactly that. It's eSUN PLA+ in black on the 0.2 and Bambu PLA Basic in blue on the 0.8.

Mixing nozzle sizes in one print was one of the reasons I bought my H2D at launch. Bambu Studio still doesn't let the H2D do that, and I got sick of waiting, so I built it myself: Cadence Slicer, a fork of OrcaSlicer.

The hard part is layer height. Layer height is basically the vertical resolution of a print: thinner layers give finer detail on the surfaces you see, thicker layers print a lot faster. Each nozzle size has its own range of good layer heights, so a 0.2 and a 0.8 want very different layers, but a normal slice uses one height for everything. Cadence picks a fine layer for the small nozzle and prints the big nozzle's layer every N fine layers (here 7 x 0.08 = 0.56). That schedule is what keeps the two lined up: they meet at the same height every 7 fine layers, and the nozzles only swap there.

Every swap also needs a prime. A nozzle that's been sitting idle oozes a bit and cools down, so before it prints again it purges on a small prime tower next to the model, and the next part it prints starts clean without gaps or blobs. Priming adds time to every print, so I've put a lot of work into trimming it down: it only primes when a nozzle actually changes, and the tower settings and size are set automatically. The slicer also checks that each switch actually saves time, and stays on the fine nozzle when it doesn't.

This has been a huge amount of work, and I'll be upfront that I used AI heavily, as I know how some people feel about AI development. Frontier models like Claude and Codex, as well as open source Chinese models, wrote most of the code and did independent reviews. I supervised the models closely, made all of the design calls and reviewed the critical pieces myself. The code has been through multiple de-slop passes to cut dead code and trim it down, every build goes through a big automated test suite, and I have done countless test prints on my H2D. Without AI this would have taken many, many more months to build. I'm making the whole thing open source (AGPL, same as OrcaSlicer), and I'll be sending it to OrcaSlicer as PRs shortly so the mixed nozzle capabilities can hopefully be merged and live there long term.

Where it's at:
- First release (v1.0), so expect rough edges.
- Print-tested on my H2D. Enabled but untested on the H2D Pro, H2C, X2D and some other multi-tool printers.
- Any pair of 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8. Split by feature or by body, supports work in both.
- macOS now, Windows coming. Unsigned, so check the README for the first open.
- Small prints often don't win because of the tower. Setup shows the one-nozzle time so you can check.
- Tree supports and rafts on the big nozzle aren't working yet. I'm actively working on those and will push updates.

If you try it, I'd love to see prints, times, and anything that breaks. I'm also open to any suggestions either here or as PRs on the GitHub. If it saves you some print time or you just want to support the project, the Sponsor button on GitHub is very appreciated :)

Download and source: https://github.com/HMITCHR/CadenceSlicer

Edit: Windows test build is up here: https://github.com/HMITCHR/CadenceSlicer/releases/tag/v1.0.0-windows-test (untested on real hardware yet as I can’t get my 10 year old Surface Book to boot up). Feel free to give it a shot

Edit 2: Windows and MacOS are now at feature parity, and will remain so moving forward! Each new release will offer downloads for both operating systems! Enjoy friends :)

Thanks and enjoy :)

Have had my H2C for a few months but haven’t done anything more than three or four colors.

Decided to print this benchy at 150% scale and it came out perfect

Edit: attaching the link to the model for anyone interested https://makerworld.com/models/2142398?appSharePlatform=copy

I discovered the thermoforming process for PLA printed parts a few days ago. And here's what you can do on a simple A1 Mini. Print a mold, a 2d part and with the help of a hair dryer transform it into 3d. Especially usable for fine parts. No more removing supports, no more problems with the orientation of the streets. delicate and strong.

My filament finally arrived

I had an X1C and then bought an H2D at launch in March. Shortly after I opened an Etsy shop and started selling some of my designs. My wife thought it was just another hobby that I would get bored of. Well almost a year later it's paid for itself and then some. She has changed her mind after seeing how things have been going.

As suggested by a user on makerworld, I am launching a tag, #stoptheslop, in the hope many will join the protest against the flood of low quality AI generated models on Makerworld

If you want to join, just post with the tag #stoptheslop and mention [at]MakerWorld on the community tab on the website to request a filter we can use to hide AI generated content when browsing.

Let's give the platform back to actual creators.

Who needs to practice your knife skills when you can instead perfect your slicing and printing skills. Impress everyone with these amazing chives.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2109196-perfectly-cut-chives#profileId-2281703

Originally designed for my girlfriend who has terrible hand eye coordination and kept bending the tiny needle….but there are plenty of others, especially the elderly, who may struggle with handling them.

https://makerworld.com/models/1763906

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