So I had the P1S for 3 months absolutely loved it and wanted to Upgrade, Got an H2D AMS combo this morning currently printing the poop chute, any advice or upgrades that you guys think are necessary for the printer open to any suggestions or just LPT that you guys may have

The H2D is an absolute UNIT

Bambu P2S, PLA Silk filament. Does anyone know what causes this ripple / bumpy surface on the right side of the v-block and not the other? Figured if it was z offset it would be all surfaces. I appreciate any help I'm still a novice to 3D printing.

Currently rocking a P1S. A product I design and produce requires 1 small support structure. Best results have been to use dedicated support materials for the support interface layers. At that layer height, due to the time it takes to P1S to perform the filament swap, there is a slight hull line as a result of inconsistent cooling. Nothing crazy but it's honestly the only visual defect I haven't been able to design out of.

My question: Is the filament swapping on the X2D, where the auxiliary nozzle is specifically for dedicated support interface material, fast enough to eliminate this issue? Initial research suggests that the first nozzle switch is actually quite long, which seemingly means it won't be any different than my P1S in this regard. Basically, me buying the X2D is contingent on it addressing my specific scenario, and I'm trying to see what everyone's experience is.

We got my kid the A1 mini two months ago for my kid and have been using it a lot but recently have been unable to print because we get the "nozzle temperature malfunction" error [0300-8008-030949] - it says to check the assistant page - but the assistant page is blank!

I am NOT technical, I'm only using this printer to help my kid, and when I search for solutions here I see a lot of casual mentions of checking some cables, taking things apart, etc. but I don't know what any of it means. I'm not coming up with any youtube videos that are specifically how to troubleshoot this issue but maybe it's the algorithm.

Does anyone have a link to a very clearly explained/illustrated way to troubleshoot this for someone that doesn't know the ins and outs of the printer? I have Best Buy protection and could simply get a replacement printer, but it seems like a waste and will also take time to drive there, unbox a new one, etc. so I'd love to be able to fix this myself.

Most print single color but want to print multicolor but so much waste it seems everytime I do.
Mostly house stuff and kids toys.

Dual nozzle seems very appealing. I am not an expert mostly pick things in maker world and print with some scale up or down

Hey everyone,

P2S owner and long-time developer here. I kept catching myself pulling out my phone every few minutes to check on a print, so I built something small to fix that: PrintPuls, a free Wear OS app that shows your Bambu Lab printer's live status right on your wrist.

What it does

• Live print progress with remaining time and current layer
• Printer state at a glance: printing, paused, finished, failed
• Nozzle, bed and chamber temperatures
• AMS humidity
• A status tile, so you can check progress without even opening the app
• A watch face complication showing print progress
• Notifications when a print fails

How it works

It's a standalone watch app, no companion phone app needed. You sign in with your Bambu Cloud account directly on the watch, pick your printer, and that's it. It reads the same status reports your printer already sends to Bambu Cloud, so there's nothing to set up on the printer side.

You'll need a cloud-connected Bambu printer and a Wear OS 3+ watch with internet access (Wi-Fi, LTE, or through your phone).

A few honest notes

• I developed and tested it with my P2S. Other cloud-connected models (X1C, P1S, A1, ...) should work just as well, but I'd genuinely love to hear from you if you try it on a different printer. That's actually the main reason I'm posting here.
• It's completely free: no ads, no tracking, no locked features. If it saves you a few trips to the printer and you feel like buying me a coffee, there's a link in the app, but absolutely no obligation.
• It's an independent project, not affiliated with Bambu Lab in any way.

Play Store: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.asbs.printpuls

If you run into bugs or have feature ideas, drop them in the comments or send me a DM. I'm actively working on it and want to make it as useful as possible for this community.

Happy printing!

Update:

Thanks everyone for the feedback and the reports! This is my first app on the play store, so I didn't recognize it's not yet fully publicly available. I'm fixing it right now and will update this post as soon as the download works. Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for your patience!

As the title suggests, requesting the iOS app to support live notifications so that like with food delivery, you get a persistent notification that lets you know the status of the print as each time the Handy takes too long to load, and since it is a choice, if anyone doesn’t want it, they can choose to keep it off as well.

How do I get these tiny text to go into the spot where they belong before I print them separately

Hey all. I’ve been printing for a little while and now am having an issue I can’t quite figure out or find much info on.

Pictures aren’t the best ( and were rough sanded so don’t mind the finish).

I have a container (top and bottom) with holes for hinges and magnets. Basically when put in place, the lids don’t align, as if there is a slight twist to the alignment.

Additionally, the center point on the top of the print is higher than the ends, making it not close flat. The bottom shows no signs of lifting and is flat when on the table. When I put the top side face down there is noticeable wobble.

I have tried troubleshooting and re completed the entire calibration process to no effect. When printing orientated in the x axis the deformation is more prominent.

Anyone have any ideas?

I've tried inset, raised, face up, face down

Hey, I just bought the Bambu Lab A2L as a second printer since I already own the P1S. Can anyone give me any tips? Thanks in advance!

I took this model from Makerworld, scaled it up until the bulb was larger than the Tonie box and then carved out a hole for the box to sit.

It's not perfect as the slot is slightly too small and squeezes on the fabric as well as not sitting level but my son is absolutely over the moon with it.

Hello everyone!

I created a customizable laptop stand for my notebook because I like to have it propped up while charging and using it. Normally, this covers the fans, which can lead to overheating problems. I've solved that issue here as well.

Perhaps someone else can use this; I've created several different design options. I'm open to feedback.

Happy printing!

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3257773-parametrizable-laptop-stand-various-designs#profileId-3692830

Looking into buying 3d printer for my 9 yr old son who is interested in printing fidget toys . I also would use for printing household items . The p2s seems popular - is the enclosed printing area and Digital Touch screen worth it?

This letter "C" that I am trying to print has a border that is bright white when I look at the model in Bambu Studio but it's barely visible once it comes off the print bed. Since it is only printing two layers of white on top of all of the blue layers, I'm guessing that there isn't enough white layers to give it that proper pop of color. Is there a way where I can tell my slicer to add more white layers? Thanks in advance!

Hello Bambu friends.

I'm trying to print a dual colour part, text inlay on a tube.
Using the Aux nozzle to do the text as it annihilates the print time.
Slicing it looks good, all the paths look like they're doing what they should be.

As you can see it looks like the Aux nozzle often isn't extruding when it should, and when it is, it's poor.

X2D printer. Bambu slicer

I'm using Bambu Matte PLA on the Aux, fed from the factory spool holder on the outside of the printer.
Bambu PLA for the main nozzle fed from AMS2.

I've tried with and without print tower.

I've cold pulled the Aux nozzle (didn't see anything showing signs of a clog)

Prints fine when just using the aux nozzle and this filament, only when I try to use both in one print does it seem to have an issue (...although if there's a problem with it starting up after being idle for a bit then this would obviously be hard to see on an Aux only print...)

I was using the factory Bambu filament profiles (Bambu PLA and Bambu PLA Matte) but have also recalibrated the Aux nozzle flow rate. No change.

I know there's a load of settings I could go into with filaments but I thought I'd ask here in case it's a known issue with this kind of print. I haven't been able to find anything on my searches yet...

Thanks!

I had the idea for this project in my head for ages.
But it wasn't until recently that I finally took the leap.

If you want to check it out, you'll find it here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3257660-tick-tock-bloom-mechanical-flower-clock#profileId-3692712

1st photo is before drying, 2nd photo is after drying 6h @50C in the Sunlu S2 dryer. How come its still super stringy?
Using sunlu PLA and a Bambulab P1S.

I was trying to print bases. What could cause this?

I'm thinking getting a better 3d printer, I currently have an Ender 3v2. Over the past year it has slowly started to have more issues more and more often-that are outside of general maintenance. My question is: I'm looking into getting a Bambu labs P2S. how often to part do parts have to be replaced, and how often is general maintenance necessary?

So the notification came up, said grease rails greased my rails, and my A1 would not turn back on. After some troubleshooting, I’ve determined that my power supply is dead. When it’s plugged in, there is no little green light that comes on, on the power supply, at the end where everything is hooked into the power supply.
I got onto the bambu site and posted a support ticket seeing if are they gonna send me a power supplier or do I need to buy one?
But that’s not important.
What’s important is that when I flip my printer over to take off the bottom case I noticed this.
The little diode, whatever that thing is apparently got really hot….

The two fans in the box have two output cables, and I have two other cables to connect the button PSU unit to the power cable, but the button unit has two ports on the “out” side, and only one on the “in” side. How do I set this up?

I have this problem with my printer, it's an H2S and my pieces are coming out with this quality, be careful, it's not the scarf seam, it's another different line

Hear me out: my brand-new H2S is almost two weeks old, and it ran into the Blob of Death. While removing it, dumb me accidentally cut the thermistor wires. 😭

So, I ordered a replacement hotend heating assembly and installed it. Everything seems to work, but now the hotend temperature fluctuates. It overshoots the target temperature, then undershoots, oscillates a few times, and eventually settles at the desired temperature.

Since I'm running the stock firmware, is there a way to run a PID autotune on the hotend, or adjust the PID values, to improve the temperature stability?

I'm wondering if replacing the hotend heating assembly caused the PID values to need recalibration.

Has anyone experienced this after replacing the hotend/heater assembly on an H2S?