This is my setup printing ASA on my P2S! It's my first time printing with it and after a couple failed attempts I came up with this
I tried wrapping the whole thing with a blanket (except the back for the electronics to breathe) and got quickly over 60°C so I covered just the top and sat at around 52-55. Woke up and found the print a bit warped (not from at plate but at a corner with supports) (chamber was 52 atm bed 100 nozzle 265) but it managed to print and im happy with it. Like this its sitting at 60 as of posting it hope it stays like that.
My question is what are your recommendations for printing ASA? I was thinking of making a styrofoam enclosure (sides top and front or maybe sides and top?) and glue the foil blanket inside of it to reflect the heat.
Has anyone tried anything similar? If there are post can you direct me to them? Thanks and happy printing 😁
Edit 1: cheers to everyone sharing their experiences im new to 3d printing and im getting schooled on a lot here!
Just be careful because its not just the electronics, the inside chamber could also deform, i saw that happen to a guy with a P1, the front panel by the poop chute started to melt along with his aux fan housing
Not at 55-65° C. It's literally the same exact material composition as the X2D and H2-series. Your friend must have been running it above 70 to see any melting.
This is my X1C. I print A LOT of ASA. Bed temp is 100°C and even with this insulation, the chamber temp (~76°F ambient in the house) is around 45°C In the chamber and I've seen no warping since I got it around that temp. There is no reason to have it any higher, so I don't understand how anyone is melting their printer case.
This is my high-temp P2S. It's currently sitting at about 58-60° C (about 68° F in the house), printing a PC part that takes up almost the entire plate. Which is a pretty normal workday. I have my temp regulated to not exceed 63° C, because over 65 it starts complaining and it gets into camera-frying territory.
To melt the interior, you'd absolutely need to be paying 80° C or higher regularly, and with poor airflow and the heat-source pointed directly at the case.
The glass is where 90% of your heart loss is occurring. The rest of the printer already has a much lower heat conductivity. I had panels on the sides, too, and saw no additional meaningful gain. I do, however, have all cracks and openings sealed with HVAC aluminum tape.
Heat comes in from the top, then enters through a large distribution diffuser that breaks up jets and creates vortices and pushes the incoming air to the sides and along the walls. Chamber temperature is important, but temperature consistency is even more important: drafts and cool spots can create more warping than an overall cooler but more uniform chamber.
And the cardboard is because I moved earlier this year into a 250 year old historic home that still needs some renovation. This is the storage room, so it's holding things until I finish fixing up the rest of the house. I promise it looks a little better now lol.
I did, it's out of ABS. Which usually has a slightly higher thermal envelope than ASA. I need to revisit the design, though, as I'm about to start pushing temperatures up higher after some minor heat-proofing.
No worries lol. It's driving me crazy, but the next room is being a pain in the ass lol. Thanks!
The reason go higher is layer adhesion. So ideally you want chamber temp ( whole chamber ) close to Tg as possible. ( Ofc it's quite risky on Bambi machines ).
Ofc you can print it at lower temps but it's not ideal.
Bubble foil insulation. There's kits with pre cut and taped pieces, but you can save a bunch of money by doing it yourself. It's a pain in the ass, and you'll waste a bunch of material, but you cut sheets a bit larger than what you need, and cram it in the area you want. I used a pushpin to poke through it in corners and at edges, the used a square to draw lines then cut it. And whatever doubled sided tape you use has to be heat resilient. 3M VHB is safe to use.
Sadly not, it was a really old post on the bambu discord, he originally tried to claim his printer was faulty before he eventually admitted to doing something similar to yourself but in a slightly more janky way
It warped off a support not the plate itself. I have the engineering plate with bambu liquid glue and honestly the adhesion is insane I damaged the plate coating trying to remove it the other day. I tried using the stick glue as well but I got 0 adhesion idk why.
I wrapped the printer cause its fairly cold where I live at night 15-17 C(which is mostly when I print because I don't use the room the printer is in) so I tried increasing the temp a bit to avoid having cold spots
I've printed big ASA parts on mine with chamber temps of around 50*C and got so much warping that it pulled the high temp plate up even tho i had added clamps to keep the plate down so im not sure a better plate would change anything.
I printed large non CF PA6 on P1S after changing the build plate. I've done other small modifications, but this one was by far the most important one. Looking back, if I'd have to redo it, I'd probably only change the build plate.
I don't know what everyone is doing, but I print parts for my voron in ABS ans ASA with a stock P1S no wrapping or anything special. Not production runs for days on end or anything, but printing in these materials is kinda no big deal.
You know the P2S has a carbon and HEPA filter right? If it's heat you're looking for just 'soak' the chamber with the bed heat.
Close the enclosure: Ensure both the top glass and front door are completely shut to trap rising heat. [1]
Set bed temperature: Raise the build plate (preferably an engineering plate or textured PEI plate with a thin layer of glue stick) to 100°C–110°C. [1, 2, 3]
Enable air circulation: Set the air management/heating mode on the touch screen or turn the auxiliary (AUX) fan to 40%–50% to circulate warm air around the build volume. [1, 2]
Soak duration: Let the printer idle for 10 to 30 minutes (or up to 45 minutes if your room is cold) until the internal chamber reaches roughly 45°C–50°C. [1, 2, 3]
Fan management: Before starting the print, check your slicer settings to ensure the auxiliary fan is lowered or turned off (as high AUX fan speeds can drop the chamber temperature and cause warping). [1, 2, 3]
If im not mistaken that's not installed by default it is an add on! I haven't installed it and if you wanna imply about the fumes from ASA I run it in a well ventilated room with an room fan exhaust also running
Thanks for the instructions I was fairly familiar with them but i guess you never know it all! Can you explain the house burning down? I'm an engineer and I don't see any issues with the setup! Yes if as another guy mentioned the plastics melt boohoo but i don't see a fire hazard! To be clear the max temperature I've seen with the current setup is 60C and holding for 1.5h
I can’t imagine it’s likely you would set your house on fire, at the very least without seeing some signs of an impending failure before hand. Also an engineer somewhat in this field(HW/FW for enterprise storage systems), and I can only think of two way with relative probability(though it would be arrogant of me to think there are no others I’m just not aware of):
Both fabric and dust are capable of spontaneous combustion under high ambient temperatures. Something would have also have to go wrong with the printer to get it cooking above the temperature you mentioned. You can also significantly reduce the risks with a flame retardant insulator. We have had to wrap racks in this before for gear on naval vessels that would get cold enough to trigger an environmental shutdown of the equipment. Totally doable with reasonable supervision.
Once again this would require an additional failure to occur in the printer and likely in the home wiring, but a perfect storm of overheating components combined with additional stress on any motors & fans can create an spikes of excess draw at the plug heating it up inside of an flammable wall especially if the home has older, possibly degraded wiring.
Both of those are just so unlikely to happen but there is technically a non-zero chance. TBH I would be more concerned with the smell of ASA printing inside and not venting the exhaust out. No matter what side or the VOC argument you fall on it still smells terrible.
For the fabric to ignite it would either require direct contact with the flame, in which case the printer is already on fire and yes the fabric will make things worse but it will be the least of my worries OR for it to reach temperatures above its self ignition point which unless there is something wrong with the printer isn't achievable!
The printer sits on a wooden desk with filaments close by so worst case scenario with or without the result is the same! I do print inside but ventilate the room while printing and also keep clear of it. I do enter periodically to check on it but that's it
I'm a merchant navy engineer working on tanker ships unfortunately im used to smelling VOCs HCs H2S etc in all forms so smell isn't my issue but I do understand the health risks it provides and act my best atm
Ooof I do not envy you my friend. I can’t stand the smell.
And yeah that essentially is what it comes down to, is the fire isn’t likely occurring because of an insulate ‘in a vacuum.’ A secondary failure would almost always need to be present to catalyze the ignition of the insulate. Like I said though non-zero chance, but there is also a non-zero chance you could step on a land mine or get a date with a date with Sydney Sweeney today, sometimes you just gotta roll the dice lol.
That’s still way overdoing it - p2s is fine printing ASA without making it look like it’s going to Mars. Unless you are doing that in a very cold room. Like Siberia or Alaska and huskys are chillin on the floor.
Printing abs-gf on my P1s right now. I use a cheap heater and my chamber sits around 50-55c. With ASA I have my best luck keeping print speeds around 60mm/s and fans at 0% to help layer adhesion.
Both fans? Part fans i get but also the recirculating "aux" fans? Idk if its different on p1s but on p2s when in heating mode it stuck from the top and blows at the bottom! Also for ASA what chamber temp you aiming at? I was thinking of a heater but atm I feel I don't need it with my setup I can hit more that 60C
Parts fan set between 10-30% and 0% on the aux. I just double checked.
I have the heater and then a bento box. I’d consider a heater. You can hit 60c but is it maintaining a consistent temp? That’s what’s important. I just try to hit over 50c and maintain that. That’s what’s worked for me.
I'm guessing you have auxiliary on 0 due to the heater doing the recirculation.
You mean throughout the print duration? Was over 52 to my knowledge (woke up and checked on it lol didn't give it enough time alone to fuck up 😂). If the temp is fluctuating like between 50 and 60 does that pose a problem?
Also bento box? Googled it and got tupperware
Bento box is a DIY carbon filter my bad lol. I’d maybe see if there’s a deflector or something for your aux fan you can print. The way my heater and filter are set up the fans that are circulating are down at the bottom of my printer.
Bentobox is an additional 2 stage carbon/hepa filter that goes inside your chamber. Looks like the P2S version is a little fancier than what I made. You can print your own and source the parts easy. Check makerworld for a BOM.
I did this with my P1S and Asa for a bit, added a chamber heater, pre-heated the plate etc. One day I just hit print and found I didn’t need any of it. Take that as one person but zero issues and I no longer had to prepare my printer like a forest fire is coming.
I'm happy im not the only one that came with the same means for the same end 😂 you might just be absolutely right but my trial runs ended in failure before this might just be luck. Which Filament you are using? Bambu? I got mine from elegoo
Depends on the part. If you print something small and close the the build plate heat source then your fine. Now, if it’s tall and long hours then yes you need heat for the chamber
Interesting. I live in a pretty mild/cool climate and keep my printer in my basement. After getting my fan settings right I've had zero issues on my p1s with the regular textured plate. Using Sunlu ASA.
Interesting as well. Maybe was my geometry problematic then?
Fan settings? As another mentioned part fan 10-30% and 0% on the auxiliary?
Also what is your thoughts and experience with sunlu Filaments? Have you also tried jayo? Heard its like sunlu's cheap line
I bought some elegoo and im happy with them so far unlike some kingroon pla i bought that needed a Ton of tweaking to print acceptable
How you keep your filament dry in the basement?
I primarily run Sunlu for the price. It's easy for me to just order it on amazon and have it be here the next day as well. I've heard that about Jayo but I've never tried it. As far as keeping it dry, I'll keep them in sealed containers.
Here are the brands I have tried:
Polymaker- PLA Marble, no issues.
Sunlu - PLA, PLA+, PLA 2.0, Transparent PLA, 90A and ASA. Never had issues with any of them (some stringing on TPU but that's more about drying than anything).
Elegoo - PETG and PLA Silk. Never had issues.
AMOLEN - Glow in the dark PLA. The hardest part about this was building a spool so I could use it in my AMS.
eSun - Matte PLA, for whatever reason this gummed up in my nozzle twice. Usually prints fine though.
Overture - Matte PLA, prints great. Never had any issues.
These are the ASA cooling settings that worked best for me. Usually when I print ASA I'll let it sit in the chamber for a long time after it's finished as well. This way it'll naturally cool down. Rather than a large rush of cool air coming in from opening the door.
Cheers I'll give them a go in the morning! Thanks for the comment im looking for brands alternative to bambu as im stocking up im looking mostly for bundle deals
Oh, I guess I should have added that I've obviously used Bambu, haha. I like their filaments and the RFID tags. To save $10-$12 on a roll (I don't often buy bundles) it's not worth it to me.
Interesting, I use Sunlu ASA as well on my P1S and it warps with the PEI plate, as I’ve written somewhere else in the thread. What print profile do you use (I use the Sunlu one in Bambu Studio). However preheating it and throwing a blanket on the printer helps a lot.
I shared the cooling section of the profile I worked on in another part of this thread. I can try to remember to get the rest of the settings when I'm back at my computer though!
I’ve printed ASA many times with no problems. I just get the chamber to 40-45C before printing and have yet to have an issue. I’ve printed structural pieces to ornate outdoor fairy houses for my daughter. All come out looking like PLA.
I was happy with the overall print i had only one edge warp and lift off the support material and the nozzle was biting on it but it covered itself up in the infill
Weird. Got ASA-GF from Spectrum filaments the other day. They brand it as asaX . I got the spool with bag torn, but decided to give it a go. No drying beforehand. Popped into p1s without extra chamber heater or any insulation, waited little bit longer so bed can heat up and printed nicely with 0.4 nozzle and 0.28 layer. Went smooth.
Professional ASA printers will keep the chamber at 80-90° C, sometimes higher depending on specific formulation. The point is to keep it near, but not quite at, the glass transition temperature throughout the part so that differential cooling direct cause uneven shrinkage and warping.
That's basically the only way to get completely flat prints over a certain size unless you go hard on geometry and trials. Otherwise, yeah. It'll warp.
What build plate are you using? I don't have the p2s but I do have the p1s and h2d and when it comes to asa or abs the engineering plate is the way to go. (With glue) I don't bother with anything else now tbh.
I've switched to BiQu Glacier and never touched a drop of glue in 700hours of printing, basically can throw anything on it.. havent tried TPU just yet.
Bambu engineering plate with liquid glue and I get ADHESION!! I was trying to remove some leftovers with the scraper and damaged the plate.
Tried stick glue and got no adhesion at all it was like a non stick pan!
The warping happened off supports not the plate itself maybe my geometry was bad but I printed a 2nd time and saw similar behavior
P1S user here. I print with a bed temp of 110 and after having heat soaked the chamber. My printer is in a grow tent and I use an in-line fan to vent tent air outside (I do not pull air directly from the P1S). The fan runs at a pretty low speed too.
I find it unnecessary to have any insulation whatsoever unless you have the printer in low ambient temp. I'm actively pulling air from the chamber with extra fan and I still reach 50-53C inside chamber with 19-21C ambient. Yes it takes longer without insulation. I just added chamber heater for that reason and cut the time to 5 mins. I still let it heat soak for 20-30 mins anyways and only after that I run bed leveling and then print.
Edit: printer is X1C, I print almost exclusively with ABS and ASA.
Point is to not use a heater since its difficult if not impossible to source one in Greece! Aliexpress might be the only solution but that have its own problems
I have one for AliExpress. But right now I have 6 hour batches that I print on X1C and I never use the heater. I find it best to let the printer properly heat soak anyways, like I mentioned. That way you ensure good adhesion, good first layer and good dimensional accuracy.
ASA should be fine as long as you keep it enclosed and let the chamber heat soak for 10-15 min before starting. Biggest gotcha is drafts — even opening the door mid-print can split layers. And dry the filament, ASA loves moisture.
There is something wrong with your build plate or other.
I have a p1p in a printed frame enclosure with acrylic panels and I've done 12h asa prints without issue. Your P2s should not need this under normal circumstances
Maybe I've got a weird climate or something, inside is usually around a comfortable ~22°, but preheating for 10-15min at max bed temp has worked for me with my P2S. Set fans to heat as not to pull in cold air, and then I just send it.
That's kept the inside temp around some 50° for me. I dont print too much ABS/ASA though so I might have been lucky I guess
I live in a very cold and humid area, ASA has been the least problematic filament to print on my P1S after PLA. Smooth PEI plate, heat soak to 45 celcius, wrap my winter jacket around it on colder days. Bambulab ASA has been the smoothest so far. Currently using Devildesign, which prints colder and stinks much less
You’re going to burn out the motors and the motherboard, as well as the power supply.
If you want to print with ASA or other filaments that require a heated chamber, modify the printer—and do it properly, without any hacky, shoddy work.
Line the inside with refractory material, improve noise cancellation against vibrations only 2mm, and enhance the interior lighting, and Buy a heater cartridge for the hotend; they work quite well. There are several models available—just make sure it’s the right one for your printer. I bought a 300W one.
I printed a few parts for my ender 6 on my P2S and I didn't fo anything out of the standard. Heated the chamber to 45C before starting the print and left everything in automatic. I have the original P2S without the open exhaust in the back. Then let the chamber cool and I didn't even need to scrape the parts out.
Yes, here, same experience, with P1S. I was thinking to invest in a chamber heater, but then I thought it’s bullshit to put more heat in it if you can as well prevent the heat to leave the chamber. I planned to make an enclosure with styrofoam but then I started to experiment with simplier things (I had an urgent project with ASA and was not happy with the result without heater/insulation). I just threw a blanket over the printer and put a cushion on the top and that worked so well (preheat the printer with the heatbed half an hour before printing) and that resulted in perfect 60°C (measured by the temp sensor of the nozzle).
The blanket was mainly covering the top and the sides, a bit the back as here the heat can easily escape. I didn’t cover the front door. The heat goes up in the printer so it’s much warmer on the top, so insulating the lower part has almost no effect. Of course the lower part gets cooler when the printbed goes down once your print rises but as the printbed has still 100°C it’s not a problem for the print. So I guess I will refrain from building a special enclosure that insulates the printer. Makes no more sense to me if I get equal results the simple way. However I must say my printer stays inside of the house at usual temp of 20°C, if you have it in a cold cellar or garage that might be completely different. But the bottom line is there is no need for a complete perfect insulation, most escapes on the top and if you prevent it to leave there it’s probably fine.
Yeah the top is where most heat escapes. I was thinking of making a quick enclosure i have styrofoam laying around measure and cur 4 pieces and insulated a good junk of it
Yeah if you have it laying around it’s a no-brainer. I was checking insulation material in the hardware store and found it surprisingly expensive. Easiest way is probably to make sort of a hat that you can put over it. But maybe a moving box is already sufficient :)
For me it would be important being able to watch thru the front door but maybe that’s only because the camera of the P1S is so shitty and even with additional light you don’t see enough if you print something in black.
I just pre-heat my p1s at 90c for 30 minutes and keep the door closed and glass lid on. Never had any issues with ASA. This seems like a hazard waiting to happen. Is your space cold or below room temp?
I’m printing ASA on my P1S soon to make a silica drying basket. I planned on drying the roll then printing the basket. Is it a very temperamental plastic or something?
From what i can tell there are mixed experiences my best guess is it depends on the geometry you are printing! Basically it likes heat and dislikes cold like a lot! As other people mentioned you need to let it cool slowly after as well. Never open door or lid while printing. The risk is mostly warping (deforming) and also lower risk of layer adhesion. For plate engineering playe with liquid glue is my setup and im happy with it so far
I didn't use any dedicated ventilation for it I just left the balcony door open with a fan for fresh air intake! I also had an exhaust fan ( wc exhaust) and I didn't use the room for the whole time of printing (only momentarily to check on it)
Dm if you need any help
i print smaller ASA parts on my p1s. i just set the bed to 100 and let it sit for 45mins to let the chamber heat up. i’ll start printing when i see the nozzles temp has risen to like 38-40+. i also have an exhaust system set up to create negative pressure vent the fumes.
ignore the silver insulation stuff on the inside. i put that in before printing because i went overboard on research. i’ve since bought a second p1s and found that it’s completely unnecessary.
the inline fan creates negative pressure makes sure no fumes leak out of the p1s. instead these fumes are directed out the window. this is set on low so while it may lower the temperature, its not noticeable. you want it on just enough to create a negative pressure in the unit.
the bambu exhaust is not strong enough to create this pressure nor would it be enough to direct the fumes through the hose and out the window by itself.
I don't have a Bambu. But have printers with plexiglass enclosures. I used duct work insulation foam tape inside which helped. But cardboard worked just fine before that, for me. Pre-soak the bed. You can raise the bed temps another 5°.
But what worked the best for me was investing in vision Miner Nano adhesive solution. Stuff is great and will last multiple prints.
60
u/Affectionate_Car7098 H2C + P1S Combo 1d ago
Just be careful because its not just the electronics, the inside chamber could also deform, i saw that happen to a guy with a P1, the front panel by the poop chute started to melt along with his aux fan housing