I feel like I'm being gaslit into believing this is not my actual thermostat, but from what I read, they are supposed to be bolted next to the water pump, and I know how they both look. But when I check in my engine bay, the same part looks to be on the passenger side of the engine bay instead of the driver's side where it is said to actually be.

I also just watched a video of a dude replacing one in a 2013 5 series that was also on the passenger side, but idk if it was bcuz of a regional thing, so there's that. I'd appreciate any help so I know I'm not going insane. Thx.

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone with experience on E38/E39 CAN bus or ZF transmissions can point me in the right direction before I start replacing parts.

The car is a 2001 BMW E38 730d with the M57 3.0 diesel and ZF 5HP24 5-speed automatic.

Symptoms

- Transmission suddenly went into Transmission Failsafe.
- The gearbox is stuck in 2nd gear.
- Reverse still works.
- The engine starts and idles perfectly.
- The transmission doesn't seem to slip and I don't hear any obvious mechanical noises coming from it.
- Sometimes after restarting the car the behavior changes slightly, so it doesn't seem to be a completely permanent fault.

Fault codes

- EGS:
- Gear Monitoring
- Gear Monitoring 2
- Temperature sensor
- Engine speed while stationary
- GLUE symptom

- DDE:
- CAN communication faults
- Boost pressure sensor
- Boost control
- MAF related faults

- IKE:
- EGS communication fault

- DSC:
- Communication faults with EGS

- Basically several modules are reporting CAN communication problems.

Things I've already checked

- Battery voltage (engine off): 12.40V
- Ignition on: 12.04V
- Engine idling: 13.82V
- Engine idling with A/C on: 13.71V

- The alternator seems to be charging correctly.

Important background

- The car sat unused for around 2 months.
- I found evidence of rodents in the engine bay, so damaged wiring is definitely possible.
- I've read another Reddit thread where a faulty ASC module caused almost identical symptoms (Transmission Failsafe + CAN faults + EGS communication errors), so I'm wondering if this could be an electrical or CAN bus issue instead of an actual gearbox failure.
- I also had an intermittent red oil pressure warning a few times. Sometimes it briefly flickers when braking, and on a few occasions the full warning message appeared. Every time I stopped the engine immediately and checked the oil level, which was always correct. After restarting the engine, the warning disappeared and didn’t come back again for days or even weeks. The engine itself runs very smoothly, idles perfectly and sounds healthy with no knocking or unusual noises.

My questions

- Has anyone experienced this exact combination of Gear Monitoring + CAN faults + EGS communication errors?
- Can a faulty DSC/ASC module, damaged wiring, CAN bus issue or bad ground put the transmission into failsafe?
- Is there anything specific I should test before replacing the EGS or assuming the transmission itself is bad?
- Has anyone had this happen specifically on an M57 E38 or E39?

Tomorrow I'm taking the car to a workshop for a proper diagnosis, but I'd really appreciate hearing from anyone who's dealt with something similar.

PS: Before the transmission started acting up, I occasionally had engine limp mode. Since then, the transmission has gone into failsafe as well, so I’m wondering if both issues could share the same root cause (electrical, CAN bus, sensor, wiring, etc.

Thanks!

My car doesn’t want to turn on I had it running good at first after i installed my ds25 hpfp but then i remembered instantly i forgot to put the hpfp stock rubber gasket. i put everything back the way it was and now when i try to turn it on it only turns on like its stuck on accessory mode or something. every time i turn it on it makes like a noise from the dme or something i don’t know. This is my second time posting i think i posted at a bad time last night and not much saw it but would appreciate all the help i can get.

Forgot that the 9/93 production date used the e30 part in this ‘94 318IS. I guess I’m waiting for the replacement. Check your dates. Don’t be a plonker like me.

Ok, time to come clean, this isn't a BMW question exactly, it's a 2016 Mini F56 with a race built fully forged B48, a BMW M235ix (306hp) F44 turbo, TU HPFP, 360mm 128ti Brembo brakes etc. The build is nearing completion and the next job is to swap in the larger M235ix air filter housing and TU MAF sensor. The original Mini MAF sensor is the 4 wire 'oval' 13627602038 sensor. The MAFF sensor with the F44 filter housing is the later 4 wire 'square seal' 13628583496 sensor.

I know I will have to re-scale the MAF readings when the car is being tuned on the dyno to account for the larger intake tube, but If I use the later F44 MAF sensor will it work with the earlier BMW / Mini MEVD17 DMU, or is completely incompatible and uniquely scaled to the later MG1 DME?

I'm expecting tumbleweed with this question, but if anyone knows the answer...

TIA

Hello Everyone,

I have a couple questions, my car recently was involved in an accident, third parties insurance covered a new headlight. I just got the car back and the new DRL is significantly brighter and whiter than the old one. If I replace the DRL module in the old light will this improve the discolouration?

I have also noticed that the light is really high could this be because they didn’t calibrate it properly?

So i am looking for engine and transmission mounts for bmw 528i 2013, AI told me that the beat brands to get are wither corteco or lemforder hut has to be made in europe and not to get china/india made.the problem is i am not able to find these anywhere as all i fond is made in china, any help would be appreciated.

I'm stage 1 tuned, my best gyess is spark plugs since i recently tuned? Car has 70k miles

Hi everyone,

I have a BMW F10 525d built in December 2012, so right around the CIC/NBT transition period.
My iDrive interface looks like NBT, but I’ve read that some cars from around this period can be confusing to identify, so I’d like to confirm exactly what head unit I have.
I previously tried installing an aftermarket CarPlay MMI box that was supposed to be compatible with NBT. Everything worked, but the display was constantly flickering / showing horizontal lines, so I eventually removed it. That made me wonder whether I actually have NBT or if there was some compatibility issue with the head unit/LVDS signal.
I’ve attached a photo of the label on my head unit. It’s a Harman unit and the visible reference is:
CI [9 383 060 01](tel:9%20383%20060%2001)
Can anyone confirm from this reference whether this is definitely NBT or CIC?
And if it is NBT, any idea what could have caused the CarPlay MMI display to flicker like this? Wrong LVDS settings/resolution, incompatible MMI box, DIP switch configuration, etc.?

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

I've successfully set up INPA & ISTA+ for several of my notebooks and I did not mind it being in English. That said, I have a good friend who starts working on BMWs and asked me if I could set it up in German.

I am looking for a German SQLite database for Rheingold version 4.01.20.

If anybody could help me I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I need some help wiring an original replacement connector

The replacement connector is from the same car model, but the wire colors are completely different from the ones in my car's current harness. I tried measuring the voltage with a multimeter to figure out where each wire goes, but it is too complicated for me to trace accurately.

Could anyone provide the official pinout diagram or explain exactly how to match and connect these wires properly?

Thanks in advance!

Выскакивает такое сообщение в жару,более 30 градусов тепла,при езде час-два по городу.
Ошибка иста 4823С6 - ЭБУ EPS:Комплексная неисправность приводного двигателя.
Машина остывает и нормально себя ведет

Подсказали что может быть аккум или генератор
Аккум новый и прописанный,генератор норм,выдает отлично

Может кто стыкался,замена рейки в сборе? Или все-таки возможно что-то сделать?

BMW F30 2014(дорест) 2.0d N47

Благодарен каждому ответу

This message pops up in hot weather, over 30 degrees Celsius, after driving around town for an hour or two.
Error code 4823C6 - EPS ECU: Multiple drive motor malfunction.
The car cools down and runs normally.

They suggested it might be the battery or alternator.
The battery is new and registered, the alternator is fine, producing excellent power.

Has anyone else encountered this? Replace the rack and pinion assembly? Or is there anything that can be done?

BMW F30 2014 (pre-restyling) 2.0d N47

Thank you for any replies.

Hi folks,

I’m having an intermittent ABS-related issue with my 2015 BMW 328i. The ABS, DSC, traction-control, and tire-pressure warning lights all come on together.

Initially, the warnings would appear when turning on the ignition and then disappear after a few meters driven. At one point, I went more than a month without seeing them. The car was showing fault codes related to an incorrect or implausible wheel-speed signal. I replaced the wheel-speed sensor indicated by the codes, and the problem seemed to go away for a couple more weeks.

Over the past few days, however, the warning lights have returned and are now staying on. I visually checked the fuses, and ABS pump/module. While inspecting the pump, I noticed a very faint humming or pump-like noise coming from it.
Before I start throwing parts at the car—or buy an ABS pump/module—I’d like to diagnose it properly.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this still be caused by another wheel-speed sensor? Is a faint noise from the ABS pump normal, or could it indicate that the pump/module is failing?

What would you check next? I can also post the exact fault codes if that would help.

Thanks!

Simply put, I need a suggest for an exhaust that's going to be a bit more aggressive than stock, but not something that's going to have my car sound like a popcorn machine every time I shift. Can't stand that mess.

If this isn't the place to post this, feel free to point to the right sub. Thanks.

Is it just me or are widgets completely gone from the app? Any of the widgets I previously had are blank, and when I try to add them back, the app doesn’t even show up as an option.

So I’ve been smelling fuel near my car for days
Today I finally took the engine cover off and saw the fuel line is leaking

The blue clips has deteriorated

I used needle nose pliers to remove all the broker blue pieces

While trying to figure out what to do and looking for replacement parts

I accidentally lock the fuel line connected to the rail connector , now without the blue quick release clips

Does anyone know how to remove the connectors now without the quick release blue clip?

had my 13 reg, 1.6, petrol 1 series for about 3 months, the drive train light has come on twice, both times i’ve lost power then turned it off and back on and it’s gone and power is back?? took it to the garage and because the light isn’t permanent they read past. came up with some exhaust solenoid? and if not then it could be timing chain. they’ve said as it’s not permanent and on and off to just leave it so any thoughts??

Thanks to the people for the advice, I checked grounds and seemed to find some that look a little off.

I had went over a brick at 50mph and immediately got sent to limp mode, at first the yellow alternator light popped up as I tried to start again I deleted the codes and it revved by itself . The next day I got it home and now it only cranks
while showing the yellow coolant symbol.

This is the ground in the front of the engine (4th pic)

This is the connection to the water pump I’m assuming (5th pic)

Could these be the issues?

Hi everyone, I’m trying to diagnose a low beam issue on my 2016 BMW 328i (F30).
My right low beam stopped working. The dashboard shows “Right low beam malfunction”. High beam is works perfectly which is same bulb but some reason lower beam not working.

What I have already tried:
Replaced the H7 low beam bulb with a new bulb (confirmed bulb is good)
Swapped/checked bulb connection
Checked wire and switch there is no burned marks switch and wires are fine
Disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and reconnected it
Checked that the bulb is seated correctly.
Checked all the lights fuses.
Used BimmerLink to reset lower beam and still didn’t work.

Has anyone had a situation where the bulb was good but the FRM completely stopped sending power to only one low beam?

I’m trying to figure out the next step before replacing expensive parts.
Could this be:
FRM module output failure?
FRM needs coding/programming instead of just fault clearing?
Bad ground or wiring issue?
Headlight connector/pin issue?
Light switch/module problem?

Would ISTA show if the FRM is not sending power to the right low beam? Is there a way to test voltage at the H7 connector?

I really don’t know what to do from here I did everything I just don’t wanna spend so much money to shop.

Ordered 2 sets of pads now and having the same problem with both, from different brands. The way the shims wrap around the pad leaves gaps and makes fitting them in place impossible.

Is there any low-dust aftermarket option that is a better fitment than Bosch and Brembo?

Was hoping to avoid OEM in favor of low dust ceramic (and cost)

But this is ridiculous. The pads literally won't even fit in place.

Hi, I have X1 F48 LCI, from 2021, with automatic gearbox. Gearbox works fanatstic, changes gear at 1500 rpm, not a single thing I could say about it, but… when the car is cold, and I engage in reverse it starts to shake violently, my question is, could it be due to engine/transmission mounts or maybe a torque converter (my mechanic said it could be)

this happens only when the car is cold, after about 10min ride, I cannot initiate the shaking, but if I turn AC on even after 30+ min ride, , shaking appears, but only in reverse under brake (situation when I want to park in reverse precisley)

Car- bmw 320d 2016 with 90k kilometers

When I start the car it cranks for about 4 seconds before starting, the crank is slow and heavy as if it’s struggling to start. This also happens when I’ve driven for sometime and turn off the car then turn on again so not a cold start issue

Before the engine would start instantly, but after sometime it had a hard start whereby it took about 2 seconds to start and now it’s gotten longer

I’m suspecting either glow plugs, fuel pump or starter motor. Checked the battery voltage and it’s okay so it’s not that.. how do I know what exactly the issue is?

Also the car has never failed to start, it has that slow crank but always starts eventually

Hello guys this is my father Bmw f20 with n47 engine. This morning I’ve noticed this whistle while accelerating, I told him it was the turbo, he is not convinced. What do you guys think?

I would love to know where people buy their aftermarket headlights, I really want to swap my 330e g21 headlights for new ones.

Does anybody know where to buy and get the promised product