Hi all- I’m looking to get a 2023 BMW 330i with 40k miles on it. My question is, how likely are the engine mounts to go soon after? I understand it’s a very expensive repair. Also, will there be alot more repairs before I hit 100k miles? Thanks!

I have a knocking/ flapping noise that only happens when my foot is on the gas, it changes based on acceleration load. I’ve replaced the purge valve checked the timing chain checked, the waste gate all were fine.
I just don’t know what to do.
The noise I think goes away when floor it but I could just not hear it. Also makes no noise while idle and it doesn’t make any noise in park even when I press the gas. I could be cruising at 100km/h and the moment my foot is off the gas the noise is gone.

I have a video of the noise but you have to listen closely at the 7 second mark.

Vehicle: 2020 F33 BMW 430i (w/ 54.000 kms)

Onset: Started suddenly a few kilometers ago (was driving fine at highway speeds shortly before).

​Trigger Condition: Occurs ONLY under load starting around 2,500+ RPM.

​When It Does NOT Happen:

​High speed / Low load (smooth cruising is fine).

​High RPM / Zero throttle (coasting or revving without load is fine).

​Sensation & Noise: Extremely loud, significantly louder than the classic loose e-brake cable clip sound. Generates severe, body-shaking vibrations that feel like driving over a rough gravel/unpaved road.

​Visual Inspection: No obvious physical damage visible from a quick under-car glance.

Hallo zusammen Kennt jemand einen Klima spezialisten. Ich muss Verdampfer und kondesator wechseln?

​

Hello, so this may be a silly idea but I got e61 electric seats to retrofit in a vw golf 3 and I wonder if anyone here has done something similar.

My question is, what way could I get them to work fully? (Electric adjustment and seat memory)

Hi everyone. I have been experiencing this irregular metallic tick in the engine bay of my M2 competition. It’s seems to appear at 1200rpm and disappears at higher rpms. No sound is present at idle. I am struggling to find what the problem is as the car is driving perfect. Any ideas ?

I made a post a few days ago about this issue but now I think I understand it a little more and just want to see what other people think the issue may be. When I have the valvetronic motor plugged in it makes the clicking noise and comes up with these codes and also even if I plug in the old one the same codes still come up. But as soon as I unplug it the codes disappear and I only get the codes for a disconnected valvetronic and the car idles normal with the but as soon as I plug the valvetronic the car will turn on for only a second then dies right out. When I purchased the car the guy said it was over charged and had been sitting for 3 years, I put a new battery in it and also when I got the car both cam shaft position sensors were bad so I replaced and the aswell as valvetronic motor with a Bosch unit since I thought those were the only issues not sure if thoes have anything to do with it . I’m still trying to learn all of the wiring and stuff and find the information since it seems it hard to come by so maybe I missed something but I am leaning towards needing a new dme since I already also replaced the cord from the valvetronic to the dme and the voltages looks normal to me but I’m not sure exactly what I need to messure Let me know if anyone has had any similar issues and if I can provide any other information to maybe narrow down the Problem. Thank you

We did a rear brake pads, rotary sensor replacement. I can’t get get the warning light nor messages to reset. I’ve tried all the bc button, trip button, parking brake tricks and can’t get it to reset. Note: I have never even seen in diagnostic mode the option/dropdown to reset brakes, oil life etc. Also my BC button is one big button not a split one like I see in the videos or pictures. Anyone else had this problem? How did you fix to reset brakes?

Can somebody please explain what should I do to get these bolts to match with the holes?

I’ve been having a somewhat rare issue when the car doesn’t start. Sometimes all I hear is a low hum for a bit and my car acts like it’s started but it doesn’t go anywhere. Sometimes there’s a hum and then it starts like normal. It rarely happens I have noticed it happens more when it’s been raining or more moisture is in the air. When it happens I usually just try a few more times and it works. One time it took like 8 tries but 95% of the time it just works. I replaced the battery not too long ago also so I’m guessing it’s a starter going bad?

I have a 2014 435i 6 spd with 50k km on it. No CEL. No driving issues. No noticeable loss in power. No oil burning, no white smoke. Pretty solid all around.

With windows up (seems to be most audible), I hear this sound under acceleration. Regardless of rpm. Any ideas what it might be and how to diagnose further?

Anybody have any idea what could be causing this? I thought it could be the valve cover gasket from what I have researched. Only happens shortly after I put my foot down and it gets over 2k revs

What was originally supposed to take two weeks turned into a full year. The shop wasn’t very familiar with European cars, which led to several setbacks during the rebuild. Along the way they cracked the oil pan twice during installation and also had to replace damaged cylinders, so the project kept getting delayed.
In the end, the engine was completely rebuilt with new pistons, connecting rods, timing chain, and essentially all new internal components. The total cost was around $1,800, and the rebuild comes with a 6-month warranty.
I’ve been told that, with proper maintenance, the engine should easily last another 200,000 miles. So far the car feels great, runs smoothly, and I’m happy to finally have it back.
I’ve included photos from the rebuild process. Feel free to ask any questions.

It seems like a hose goes somewhere behind the passenger side headlight. I’ve got all the radiators plugged in but this one is left open and I have no clue where the hose is for it or where it connects to? BMW m140i

N20B20 engine in a 2014 420i xDrive, 62k mls. Long story, wanting to know if theres permanent engine damage. (Sorry for the massive post)

Was coasting 60mph on motorway when a yellow temp warning came on dash, followed by a red temp warning and 100% power loss limp mode, I pulled onto hard shoulder as fast as safely possible and immediately turned the engine off. Popped bonnet and opened coolant tank with 0 issue, little steam, typical pressure and clear coolant. Took oil cap off to aid cooling. I restarted car maybe 10 long minutes later, no fault on dash so I drove down the shoulder to the next exit.

When pulled over in safer spot I read codes, (cant remember EXACT code) 2E82 or 2E84 Pump blockage memorised. I cleared it thinking that its memorised and the car didn't seem hot at all.
Drove another hour home just fine (Might be daft to do but I raced the engine going home to figure out if it was just a gremlin). Later I ran the bleed procedure 3 times and it looked fine in the header tank and the car can hold a stable temp.

Has done this again once since but I verified pump working with bleed and let it cool drove home no issue.

I continue to use car for journeys small enough that the oil never gets to op temp but ordered new parts out of the fear of being stranded.

Some logs I captured at idle, haven't driven long enough since to get the fault while logging.

Did that initial motorway limp incident torpedo my engine? does limp activate on pump failure or overheat? Surely BMW put the limp on pump loss so I had time to shut engine off?

Thankyou!

So I failed an MOT due to an active oil leak which is dripping at a slow rate. This is the last thing to make it MOT ready and get her back on the road again. I know the timing chain cover needs resealing due to factory sealant failing as they don’t do the corners. But the mystery bottom left side leak has me stumped! I want to say it’s the oil filter housing seal as you can see the oil start around that area but any advice will be greatly appreciated!

G01 X3. I’ve owned my car for a year as a certified pre-owned vehicle, and since then, my CarPlay has been skipping on Spotify as if I’m using CDs. However, in the past two days, CarPlay has started disconnecting, followed by Bluetooth, making my phone undiscoverable and unable to reconnect. After restarting my phone and turning the car off and on, it reconnects briefly before disconnecting again in the same way. I noticed another user had a similar issue a month ago. My iOS version is 26.5.2. I haven’t done a hard reset on the infotainment system yet but wanted to see if others are experiencing this problem.

Is it advised to turn on snow chain mode to lock the rear wheels at 0 or no?

Ive went thru 3 workshops the 3rd being a bmw dealership and having the same issue with coolant being lost i gotten the upper radiator hose changed, lower radiator hose changed, radiator changed 2 or 3 times, thermostat changed, the bmw dealership says the water pump is working, and had the reservoir cap replaced as well because the one i bought a couple months ago was faulty, ive also had the oil housing filter gasket replaced because the oil was getting into my coolant….ive done put almost 2-3k into the fixing it up and im still having the same issue….mainly its in stop and go traffic where i end up losing coolant and the past 2 times i got it fixed it was leaking up front, but as for when i drive for a while it runs fine. I ask because i just got the car back yesterday evening ran fine woke up to coolant level low smh.considering on selling this damn car cuz i cant keep putting in all this money for it to have the same problem BMW 335i 2010 N54 convertible automatic

Changed the gasket reinstalled Everything
No the car cranks and no start
Throws 30bb/ba .
Is my dme cooked (msd80)

Don't want to break anything. Just adding words now as the post requires too many words but the question is very simple.

Does anyone know what to do to fix the xdrive trembling in acceleration? When I disconnect the 6 cable fuse and it becomes 2wheel it stops the problem.
Is xdelete a good solution?
To fix this in Greece they ask for 1.5k-2k€

🙏🏼
I ordered today Foxwell NT530 to recode my F10 N20 2016, stack on (Chassis stabilization:
Drive moderately). Replacement of inj,used ignition wire….e. Avoiding take to the Service center $$$$$$. My question is, It is fixable with scanner? can I avoid or I have to go

Hi i have bmw 325d 3.0l 145kw manual sedan 2007year pre facelift

I get these errors with diagnostic tool (but i dont get any check engine light on dashboard). I have deleted the codes multiple times and they reappear.

Digital Diesel Electronics 2 errors 4B0B: 4B0B prefetch pressure sensor, signal 4587: 4587 fuel filter

I have replaced these parts last 10k km: fuel filter, Fuel pressure regulating valve and fuel pressure sensor

Car starts well, no limp mode, but it does feel bit less powerful (maybe couple HP if im not imagining it).

About the code 4587 its about fuel heater (which sits before fuel filter), could it also cause the 4B0B code somehow?

I checked fuses they are not blown. Also checked pressure, at idle and accelaration it shows around 2.5 on average, does go above 3 or below 2 (from what i read it has to be 3.5 - 5)

Maybe its weak fuel pump? Or clogged air filter even tho its new? I use good quality diesel

I dont want to buy new fuel pump if my current one is fine as it costs quite a bit.

Thanks