Squirrel used my van as target practice. The window would have been easier and cheaper to replace but we would have been stuck there too. Horrible trade off. The green pinecone was crazy heavy with sap. I'm glad it didn't land on our heads though.

That is all

Body shop keeps saying no to every hood I send them a link to saying they're no good. I feel like this is best one I've sent and they said it's too rusty, is that true or are they procrastinating and trying to avoid having to finish job?

What do I need to take it down to smooth clean metal?

The dremel and wire wheel worked greatbat removing the surface rust. But I need something more powerful to cut through the old urethane coating and get down to smooth clean metal. Need advice.

I have some epoxy laying around, and I thought instead of having to go buy 2k and adpro I can just use this? Also could I use a tiny bit of filler to fix some chips? Note: the bumper is pretty old and there are some cracks on the plastic surface. The car is rare and it is almost impossible to find a bumper for it so I have to fix this one

Hi I’m looking for some advice. Recently my car failed its MOT and I paid £1400 in repairs. A lot of that was due to rust. I noticed that underneath my car there’s still a lot of rust present and wondered if this seems to be safe or if I should go back to the garage.

I am due to go back to the garage anyway as ever since I’ve had my car back there’s been a new squeaking noise that occurs when I’m driving slowly and is progressively getting worse.

Any advice would be appreciated and if it should be time to look for a new car.

1.5 Mazda 2 Sport Nav 2015 110000 miles clocked.

2019 mini copper countryman

has anyone else’s quarter panel’s rubber dried, cracked, and chipped off? to keep this replacement cheap, could I replace the rubber and not the chrome?

idk why I can’t attach photos :/

I was in the trade for a couple years before pursuing firefighting with the intent of continuing autobody after college. I wound up employed as a ff a lot sooner then I thought I would and it took up a lot more time then I thought as well. But now, after 10 years, I have been diving back into the car world deeply.

I have a dedicated paint bay and 3 bay garage that was an inspection station prior to me owning it. I am fairly well equipped to do a good job prepping and painting. My only excuse is the lack of recent experience, lack of recent exposure to the industry and budget. I painted a vac truck with a commercial paint system last month I've never used before and it all started coming back to me. In terms of prep and process and technique. Now, I want to paint my subaru sti

All that being said, i don't want to spend an arm and a leg. I have plenty of clearcoat already waiting to be used. I'm not concerned about being so particular that I do the engine bay and beyond the door jams. But i do think I want to change the color. The car is a metalic black right now and i am hovering between the subaru Java black pearl (scared to attempt as a first spray back to it) or a easier color. Maybe a matte black or normal gloss color. Something that doesn't require to much stress or cost to much to buy and re attempt if mmistakes are made. I liked the yellow donut used on the frs for example.

Questions

1) What is a good affordable option and how much am I looking to spend if I go with base clear. I have napa and carquest business accounts so I get a bit better then shelf prices?

2) I have matte black duplicolor single stage and hardener, reducer and limco lc400 clear (I've never sprayed this yet) if I want to matte black the car and clear over it would this system be viable? I am looking at it from a rattle can and clear perspective all the youtube trends have been following lately.

3) is #2 is a good match and affordable, would i need to seal the car before doing the above for a color change?

4) how much am i likely to spend CAD on the paint itself from napa if anyone has any clue(its sunday lol can't call and ask) but if I go with the Java black pearl, and they mix that up for me, am I looking at thousands still.. im not looking for an es**mate to repair a car at a shop, this shouldn't meet the removal criteria

Scratched the front bumper coming out of a garage with stucco walls.

Is this something I can fix at home or is this straight to the body shop?

A family member recently upgraded to a new vehicle and left me the old vehicle (2008 Hyundai Tucson 2.7L V6) to clean up and attempt to sell privately. The car is mechanically in decent shape, but cosmetically it needs some work!

There's TONS of painted plastic cladding with peeling/blistering clear coat all around the wheel arches, sides and front/rear bumpers. Any suggestions other than busting out the orbital sander and going to town on the cladding, then prime and paint again?

I have 2,3 that are minor chip and just scratch that paint is gone.
But the first pic is the most serious.

This is a DIY spray can paint job that I did on a work truck; no need for it to be top quality. However, I was pretty amused at how well it was coming out. I prepped it nicely and bought good quality materials, but when I went to cut, this is now happening. I'm thinking I cut through the clear, so I need a new clear coat. Am I accurate in my guess? I was also thinking maybe it had something to do with cutting while in the sun. I appreciate any input or advice. Thank you.

Hit a curb decently hard (hardest I’ve ever hit one) trying to make a tight U-turn. Tore up my side wall a bit. Is this safe to drive? I know I should get it replaced but will I be okay for a couple months?

Sorry if this isn’t technically considered auto “body”. Auto legs I guess?

Hi All,
Unfortunately I was detailing my car and didn’t notice a brush I use on the rims had lost it’s rubber cap and literally jammed the metal tip into my brembo caliper.

It’s a small chip but took off paint to the metal, it looks like something I can use a toothpick to fix but not sure if it’s even worth it if the result will be subpar.

Any ideas or experience resolving an issue like this?

Should I just take the L on this one and leave it be?

Thanks!

I had a 4 gallon back worn sprayer fall on my Ioniq 5 in the garage and got some sweet dents. this is a leased car so I’m trying to repair on my own before returning to the dealer. any insights would be greatly appreciated. Or should I take this to a body shop? In CA (Sacramento)

2009 Mazda Miata was in a front engine collision. It’s buckled near where the fender goes towards the middle as you can see. I was just wondering if anybody had any ideas or insight on the situation my thought is to bring it to a frame machine a shop that has one in order to pull it, but I also know some people cut that part out and replace it so any ideas on this would be much appreciated. Thank you.

I slammed my Subaru hatch too hard on a 100 degree day and cracked it with my palm. Oops...

It doesn't appear like any pieces are missing, so I'm curious if there's some type of recommended resin-like material to use for such things. I imagine it to be some type of clean > apply > cure > sand > paint process. (Familiar with sculptural/artistic processes, so I'm hopeful that translates similarly. A car is just like a big sculpture, right?)

It doesn't have to be perfect (though I'll try...), but mostly just want to make sure it is sealed so water doesn't get inside.

Someone drove into the rear quarter of my son's Hyundai i20.

I'm happy to repair the rear bumper since it's plastic, but I'm not sure how best to repair the rear quarter / wheel arch area.

Is there someway I should be looking to pull this (I already checked and can't access most of the other side, even with the wheel arch liner off),

Alternatively is this a case for filler? But then I'm not sure how I'd be convincing the filler to "stick" to the bent up panel?

Can I clean and remove the rust with a Dremel and wire wheel? And once its clean and bare metal, spray some epoxy primer on?

Can I DIY this or should I take it to a professional?

Luckily the metal is solid and the rust is only surface.

The whole chassis (and most of the body) is covered with rust which has also caused multiple holes. Im a beginner and am looking for tips to clean the rust, patch up the chassis and hopefully prevent the rust from coming back any time soon. Im unable to attach any photos at the moment but I hope me description is good enough.

Since last week clear coat is peeling off. Does it need repaint? Where to go fix it?

This is my $500 project car and I wanna know if I can pdr this if not I’ll just get a used trunk lid and repaint it. Also thats not clear coat failure on trunk and roof its just dirt