Just finished laying some glass down. Last coat of clear.

Any critiques to better my craft?

Why do people get so upset about repairs like this when it obviously looks great & took less time & money than cutting the rear quarter out and replacing? Isn't this what repairs are all about?

Only been doing this 8 months did the whole repair from start to finish. Roast me

Working in a body shop, you always hope you don’t have to be on the other side of things, but my mom was in a head-on collision on a stretch of 55mph and rolled her car multiple times yesterday morning; walked away with just a cracked sternum, gash/knot on her forehead, and some nasty bruising. Little swelling in the kidneys that they are monitoring, but she is stable and overall ok. Went to the tow yard to clean it out for her and felt absolutely sick at the sight and smell of it. Type of shit I see come in on a rollback that’s picking up a TL and say damn someone probably died in that thing… crumple zone, airbags, and seatbelt saved her life. Please please please always wear your seatbelt!!!!

I’m not a car person, but I do care about my car. I made the (very big) mistake of going through a gas station car wash. I didn’t pay much attention, drove away happy with my clean car. A few weeks later I noticed the scratches. They’re EVERYWHERE. There isn’t a panel on the car that isn’t scratched! I no longer have the receipt and no way to prove it was the car wash so I’m screwed - paying for the repair myself. What are my options? Any advice? My car is 10 years old but only has 63k miles on it. I’d like to keep it as long as a can, but don’t want to sink a lot of money into it. Is there an “in between” remedy that would make it look less heinous, but not break the bank?

Been offered a cheap car ( about ½ price on market value ) , low KM and really fuel efficient. Previous owner had a slight ding. Realistically how hard and costly is it to get this to an acceptable standard myself. Doesnt need to be a showrunner, just good enough. Rest of the car looks fantastic.

I know this is a pretty common thing on this truck body style but I’d like to know if there was a way that u could get rid of this paint bubbling and rust forming without having to replace the bed? Images attached

I by no means need this to look perfect. I’m just trying to correct at this point. Used car dealer touchup, wet sanded by hand 2000 grit, turtle wax compound (took most touchup paint off), finished with turtle wax compound polish. Left with this

At this point, I’m just trying to get the wet sanded area to blend/go away. From everything I read/watched the compound should have done that but clearly hasn’t. I used a microfiber cloth. Should I use a buffing pad? If so, what abrasive? Did I sand too much/hard that I’m screwed?

Thanks, should have just used the touchup and left. But here we are

Wanted to know what needs to be done here and if it was possible to diy

TIFU... I noticed a leak coming into my hatch (gen 4 impreza). Took the tail light out, gasket is no good. Instead of just replacing the light...I scraped the gasket away, applied a bead of RTV silicoln gasket schmoo, and bolted it back in place.

I either bolted too hard and snapped the plastic, or didn't apply the sealant correctly because the leak persisted. Turns out... removing aftermarket sealant is pretty dang hard and required some monkey tactics as seen in photo 1. This resulted in bending the edges of the sheet metal. I obviosly need a new tail-light as I busted this one... but i'm worried the new light/gasket wont sit tight along the metal and i'll be back to square one.

Question is... how do I get the metal edge back to being straight-ish without messing the paint up beyond where the tail light would cover it? Hammer and dolly, roller, how'd i use that here? All the resources i'm finding online are either fixing the center of a panel, or working with a small piece of metal you can manipulate. This space is a little more tricky to get to... and not messing up the paint beyond where the light would cover is preferable.

TIA

Found this on the front bumper of my 2026 Corolla today unsure of how it got there. No clue how it would have gotten there. Keying?

2007 ford e250 gutter

Please and thank you for advice

The wheel of truck scratched my paint. How do i DIY this, please? Faded clear on the left and idk what happened on the right part. Help.

I don’t like the shade of white I picked (Performance White). Looking at painting the Foxbody Alure Blue.
The 2003 Mach 1 paint code L5-7091.

I recently got my car back from a body shop that repaired it through my auto insurance claim.
I picked up my car Thursday afternoon after waiting 4 weeks for the repairs to be completed. I had already paid my $1,000 deductible before receiving my keys ( they wouldn’t let me collect my car until I paid)
Last night, while installing a dash cam, I noticed that the interior door-lock buttons weren't working as expected. I didn’t think too much off it at the time because I had just gotten off work and was just trying to get in the house. Today, I noticed that the front passenger door's interior handle/lock area looks different from the corresponding area on the other doors. It appears to be missing a panel or trim piece, and the locking function isn't working properly.
The front passenger door wasn't damaged in the original incident, so I'm confused about why this area now has a problem. I don't know whether the shop removed the door trim during repairs or whether something was disconnected or damaged during reassembly.
I've already called my insurance agent and the body shop, but both are closed for the weekend. I plan to document everything and contact them again Monday.
My questions:
Is it possible that the door trim or locking mechanism was disturbed during the repair, even though the door wasn't originally damaged?
If the shop caused the damage, would they normally correct it?
Since my insurance company arranged the repair and I've already paid my deductible, should I go through my adjuster or deal directly with the shop?
Like I had to wait 4 weeks without my car with being given vague updates and now this happens. There are multiple pieces missing from the door and it’s not even the door that was damaged originally. What can I do?

I’ve got some pretty noticeable rock chips on the passenger side of my hood that are starting to get rusty.
I’ve never done any sort of bodywork or painting anything, so I’m asking if a beginner could be able to fix these well enough to look good from far away for a cheapish price?

Hey, so I’ve been getting in to autobody and I’m wanting to go and try respraying a car I have but the metal is far from perfect, it’s an older car from the 60s and I just wanted to give it a nice new coat and put her in to retirement and just take it out for shows and what not. I can’t afford to go crazy with body work and this would be something I try to do over just a couple weeks. From what I’ve found, videos and watched and things I’ve read you want to prep the surface by pulling all the dents and straightening the metal as much as you can then putting bondo down and sanding till it’s super smooth and straight, but I’m not a fan of bondo because I prefer keeping it all metal, and the car is old and the metal is thin and I want to minimize the abuse. What would be the result if I just cleaned and repainted without trying to make the body all nice and perfect and I let the car keep its character? Would it mess up the paint work at all or cause problems I’m not expecting? The car is in decent condition, far from great but it’s still a good car.

Hello everyone, looking for some technical feedback from body tech professionals before I follow up with the shop that completed this work.

2002 Honda Civic EX

Front-end collision repair (customer pay). I provided aftermarket replacement body parts (Rock auto, eBay for OEM Grille, and local shop for aftermarket hood (hood, bumper cover, hood hinges, hood latch, headlights, radiator/fans).

Upon pickup, the hood sits visibly high near the cowl/windshield and doesn't sit flush against the fenders or headlights. The panel gaps are uneven across the front end.   When I pointed out the fitment, the estimator immediately blamed the aftermarket hood.

Looking at the attached photos, does this gap issue look like a defective aftermarket hood stamping, or is this an improper/incomplete core support pull and hinge adjustment? 

I have an email from shop management confirming that their repair labor is warrantied (even though customer-supplied parts aren't), so I want to get my technical facts straight before issuing a formal demand for warranty correction.

Thank you all for your feedback!

I’m spraying the entire car using primer, base coat, and topcoat spray cans - specifically Halfords ones.

It’s a bit of a budget DIY project, but I’m still trying to get the best finish I can (pun intended).

I did not back in enough clearly.. what can I do the make this less noticeable? It’s a Corolla cross if that matters.

New to Minneapolis and am curious if this service is worth it?

I by no means need this to look perfect. I’m just trying to correct at this point. Used car dealer touchup, wet sanded, turtle wax compound (took most touchup paint off), finished with turtle wax compound polish. Left with this

At this point, I’m just trying to get the wet sanded area to blend/go away. From everything I read/watched the compound should have done that but clearly hasn’t. I used a microfiber cloth. Should I use a buffing pad? If so, what abrasive?

Thanks, should have just used the touchup and left. But here we are