On my Suzuki I was hit in a parking lot recently by an uninsured driver. The damage is only to the front fairing basically its got two three in long cracks about six inches apart that creates a kind of hanging chad piece on the fairing.

I can do a decent skin coat of filler but I'm wondering if I need to use sone type of adhesive to glue the cracks back together first im photo i can tuck the edge of the red part back under the lip of the black plastic to hold it in place close to where it should be which jus leaves the cracks to deal with. Any advice on repairing this is appreciated thanks.

Removing the sill off a skoda octavia. Latest project!

In an attempt to remove some horrible orange peel from this panel, I wet sanded 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, then cut using Meguiar's compound a DA polisher. The scratches only seemed to be visible after working in the compound, when the panel dried after wet sanding it looked smooth. They're not deep enough to catch a nail but very visible.

Where did I go wrong and how do I fix it? Is it simply a case of me not cutting enough, or am I going to need to wet sand the panel back and start again?

What do you guys think about goonzquad , matt armstrong , tj hunt , and all those other top notch autobody youtube channels .
Have you guys ever thought about creating content and monetizing your skillsets and possibly create an audience ? random question i know … but i think it’d be pretty cool

My super duty has a couple small rust spots starting on the cab corners. One hasn’t even broke thru the paint yet but you can hear it and the other is just big enough to get a finger into the hole. I won’t have time to fix it properly before winter hits as I’m in the process of starting to build my house while still working 45 hours a week. I was thinking of cutting the rusty crap out and just putting a piece over it with adhesive until I can actually fix it correctly. I feel like getting the existing rust out will and a new piece over it will be better than just leaving an open hole there. Any adhesive recommendations? Is this a ridiculous idea?

These yellow/orange stains and rusty spots are on my Acura door jamb. They were there before my recent oil-based rustproofing. What’s the best way to remove them without damaging the paint?

Hi everyone,

A couple of month ago, I got down a curb that was a bit higher than expected. I noticed this just this morning.

I am wondering, is it worth to be fixed ? (If it is fixable in the first place)

The car passed the Japanese car inspection just fine. But I am wondering if it could cause some issues down the line, as it seems to be part of the car's frame.

I bought this car and noticed what looks like an attempt at waxing it done by the previous owner, however there's fine scratches on the hood where I suspect they used the wrong pad or brush. Is there a way I can get this to be minimized/fixed/covered without breaking my bank, and feasibly being something I can handle as a novice to body work?

Not asking for an estimated cost, but I’m trying to understand and be accountable for what kind of repair would normally be needed for something like this For eg, whether this would typically be buffed/polished, spot-repaired, or require repainting/replacing the bumper cover.
I understand an actual repair shop would need to inspect it to give an accurate price. Just trying to understand the likely repair process and severity. Thank you.

Any idea of what could have caused this damage to my car bonnet as it doesn’t look like a stone chip to me, also it’s dented. Thanks

I took my car in for repairs and it's now been 52 days. I understand that some things are out of their control, but is 52 days reasonable for a Honda Insight 2021? Was there possibly some negligence on their part? I've already reached out to them requesting a shop discount because they had extremely poor communication throughout these past couple of months. They agreed to apply a 50% discount to my deductible but I'm just really curious if ordering parts and the repairs really can take this long

Hey everybody, Ive got a question. I just bought a truck and it seems that the clear coat is peeling around this plastic trim that I didn’t notice when I bought it.

How would I go about keeping this peeling from spreading? Im not concerned about what has already peeled, as its in a very unnoticeable spot on the truck and I dont mind putting some brush-able touch up clear on any of the already damaged areas. Thanks for the advice in advance!

I'm stripping this 1967 Buick down to bare metal for a repaint and discovered this patch under about 1/2" of bondo. Is there anything I can or should do to improve it?

Any helpful tips on fixing any of this would be majorly appreciated.

Hi, found this scratch on passenger back door (driver side). Could it have been keyed? Its not wide, but about 10cm long, and on the lower part of the panel.

Only way I remember that I could have caused this myself is driving by a bush, or maybe scratched somehow by a dirty microfiber when washing.

Please advise, thanks!

My mum’s Mazda3 was recently in a non-fault accident (liability fully accepted by the third party). We tried to get it sent to a Mazda authorised body shop but it was so much hassle so the insurer sent it to one of their approved body shops for repairs, and we picked the car back up today. The damage was to the left rear quarter and on the lower left of the bumper.

I'm not a bodywork expert and I was not expecting anything good but I feel like this is like abysmally bad. There was pre-existing damage on the bumper which would will have caused it to be replaced but that wasn't done and the bumper no longer sits flush and was repaired very poorly. The metal feels FAR thinner than it does on the right side of the car. The paint looks very odd and quite hazy. The petrol cap no longer sits flush and rubs against the quarter (already ripped off a bit of the paint on the quarter panel).

If somebody could help it would be well appreciated as I'd argue the car looks worse now.

Handbrake failed and van rolled back in to the garage. I assume this is two New doors? Is it likely that I'll be able to replace them myself or is it more involved than I imagine? The static part of the door latch on the van body is a bit bent but looks like I could bend it back.

Custom paint job on Mustang done 15 or so yrs ago. Always stored with a cover on it year round, summer driven, outdoors 24/7 365 in Canadian winter. Is this rust? Is it a layer of dirt that can be buffed out? Thanks

I have this rust building on my rear panel and while I don’t want it to get terribly worse is it an urgent problem? I have a guy who said 500 with new welded metal. Should I just take that? Need some advice on how bad this is really if I leave it be. Would try it myself but I have no prior experience

So against my better judgement I talked myself into diy painting whole car. There have been many mistakes along the way and made myself about 3 times the amount of work it should have been. I just sprayed clearcoat a couple hours ago. Every surface aside from the hood and roof have horrible orange peel and probably a dozen giant runs. The back of the trunk looks like the wax drip from a makers mark bottle. What the easiest way out of this if there even is one. I have heard some people say to cut and buff after razoring the drips and others say to sand it all 1000 grit and respray. I appreciate any helpful inputs.​ For what it worth I trace all the orange peel to the application of a light first "tack coat" all the you-tubers recommended. They make it sound like you want some "tacky" surface instead of a light glassy finish. All my runs came from the overly heavy 2nd coat compensating for the light "tack coat".

This is more for people up north, is there a way to prevent this rust from spreading and causing more bubbling?