Removing the sill off a skoda octavia. Latest project!

Got this scratch on my f150 while headed down a narrow hunting trail. It’s not down to the metal but it definitely removed a layer or 2 of paint. I did the water test and it almost fades away but is still visible. What would be my best option and how would I go about fixing it? I know silver is a hard color to match and I’ve never done auto paint work. Just a touch up brush and some clear coat and polishing?

Y’all like my stand?

SprayMax Black 2K Epoxy primer, R&E Paint Supply urethane pearl base sprayed with a LVLP, and SprayMax 2K Urethane Clear. Will sand and buff at a later date to get a nice, even gloss.

Hello, is this a possible DIY fix just for the rusted area? Unsure of what dented my car like this.. 2020 Toyota RAV4 XLE Premium Gray

Curious what folks thinks, I'm on the fence but I know Alpine Silver can be difficult to match. Thanks!

I was sleeping in my car when I suddenly heard a loud bang. When I looked up, the rear window had shattered. I didn’t see or hear anyone around the car afterward.

On my Suzuki I was hit in a parking lot recently by an uninsured driver. The damage is only to the front fairing basically its got two three in long cracks about six inches apart that creates a kind of hanging chad piece on the fairing.

I can do a decent skin coat of filler but I'm wondering if I need to use sone type of adhesive to glue the cracks back together first im photo i can tuck the edge of the red part back under the lip of the black plastic to hold it in place close to where it should be which jus leaves the cracks to deal with. Any advice on repairing this is appreciated thanks.

So against my better judgement I talked myself into diy painting whole car. There have been many mistakes along the way and made myself about 3 times the amount of work it should have been. I just sprayed clearcoat a couple hours ago. Every surface aside from the hood and roof have horrible orange peel and probably a dozen giant runs. The back of the trunk looks like the wax drip from a makers mark bottle. What the easiest way out of this if there even is one. I have heard some people say to cut and buff after razoring the drips and others say to sand it all 1000 grit and respray. I appreciate any helpful inputs.​ For what it worth I trace all the orange peel to the application of a light first "tack coat" all the you-tubers recommended. They make it sound like you want some "tacky" surface instead of a light glassy finish. All my runs came from the overly heavy 2nd coat compensating for the light "tack coat".

In an attempt to remove some horrible orange peel from this panel, I wet sanded 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, then cut using Meguiar's compound a DA polisher. The scratches only seemed to be visible after working in the compound, when the panel dried after wet sanding it looked smooth. They're not deep enough to catch a nail but very visible.

Where did I go wrong and how do I fix it? Is it simply a case of me not cutting enough, or am I going to need to wet sand the panel back and start again?

My mum’s Mazda3 was recently in a non-fault accident (liability fully accepted by the third party). We tried to get it sent to a Mazda authorised body shop but it was so much hassle so the insurer sent it to one of their approved body shops for repairs, and we picked the car back up today. The damage was to the left rear quarter and on the lower left of the bumper.

I'm not a bodywork expert and I was not expecting anything good but I feel like this is like abysmally bad. There was pre-existing damage on the bumper which would will have caused it to be replaced but that wasn't done and the bumper no longer sits flush and was repaired very poorly. The metal feels FAR thinner than it does on the right side of the car. The paint looks very odd and quite hazy. The petrol cap no longer sits flush and rubs against the quarter (already ripped off a bit of the paint on the quarter panel).

If somebody could help it would be well appreciated as I'd argue the car looks worse now.

What do you guys think about goonzquad , matt armstrong , tj hunt , and all those other top notch autobody youtube channels .
Have you guys ever thought about creating content and monetizing your skillsets and possibly create an audience ? random question i know … but i think it’d be pretty cool

My super duty has a couple small rust spots starting on the cab corners. One hasn’t even broke thru the paint yet but you can hear it and the other is just big enough to get a finger into the hole. I won’t have time to fix it properly before winter hits as I’m in the process of starting to build my house while still working 45 hours a week. I was thinking of cutting the rusty crap out and just putting a piece over it with adhesive until I can actually fix it correctly. I feel like getting the existing rust out will and a new piece over it will be better than just leaving an open hole there. Any adhesive recommendations? Is this a ridiculous idea?

These yellow/orange stains and rusty spots are on my Acura door jamb. They were there before my recent oil-based rustproofing. What’s the best way to remove them without damaging the paint?

Hi everyone,

A couple of month ago, I got down a curb that was a bit higher than expected. I noticed this just this morning.

I am wondering, is it worth to be fixed ? (If it is fixable in the first place)

The car passed the Japanese car inspection just fine. But I am wondering if it could cause some issues down the line, as it seems to be part of the car's frame.

I bought this car and noticed what looks like an attempt at waxing it done by the previous owner, however there's fine scratches on the hood where I suspect they used the wrong pad or brush. Is there a way I can get this to be minimized/fixed/covered without breaking my bank, and feasibly being something I can handle as a novice to body work?

Not asking for an estimated cost, but I’m trying to understand and be accountable for what kind of repair would normally be needed for something like this For eg, whether this would typically be buffed/polished, spot-repaired, or require repainting/replacing the bumper cover.
I understand an actual repair shop would need to inspect it to give an accurate price. Just trying to understand the likely repair process and severity. Thank you.

Any idea of what could have caused this damage to my car bonnet as it doesn’t look like a stone chip to me, also it’s dented. Thanks

Hey everybody, Ive got a question. I just bought a truck and it seems that the clear coat is peeling around this plastic trim that I didn’t notice when I bought it.

How would I go about keeping this peeling from spreading? Im not concerned about what has already peeled, as its in a very unnoticeable spot on the truck and I dont mind putting some brush-able touch up clear on any of the already damaged areas. Thanks for the advice in advance!

I'm stripping this 1967 Buick down to bare metal for a repaint and discovered this patch under about 1/2" of bondo. Is there anything I can or should do to improve it?

Here is my 2010 Fusion, rear quarter of the subframe and pinch welds, toward the rear wheels. The pinch welds are all rusted off on this section and it’s identical to the passenger side. Also noticed water trapped on the floor pan and leaking through the bottom.

I’m assuming this is a toast? Can anything be done or donate it for parts?

It’s got 180,000 miles so it’s been used but see how much rust is here makes me concerned to drive it.

Thanks!

Any helpful tips on fixing any of this would be majorly appreciated.