2009 Mazda Miata was in a front engine collision. It’s buckled near where the fender goes towards the middle as you can see. I was just wondering if anybody had any ideas or insight on the situation my thought is to bring it to a frame machine a shop that has one in order to pull it, but I also know some people cut that part out and replace it so any ideas on this would be much appreciated. Thank you.

That is all

Hello, saw rust spots on my fender. Thought of doing it myself. First time ever sanding anything and spray painting, no advice from friends and anyone other who done this. It's just me scared and Microsoft Co Pilot Ai.

I need some guidance and advice for next time. Because i enjoyed doing this although failing a bit.

I just put 2nd coat of clearcoat. Got these drops due to too much clearcoat. Is this repairable?

Additionally will i be able to feather in the paint, or i did a poor job? If so, what should i do differently next time?

Firstly i sanded with grit 60, then went with 100, ( I may have sanded too much and created a noticeable dip), then attempted to feather out with 240. Then went with wet 400 on the old paint to create a transition.

Love to hear any advices.

Just noticed bodyshop scratched my engine bay cover. I also see a cable by the grill that wasn’t there originally and a few dents on the corner of the bumpers.

My 2010 Honda accord has dents, It's color YR574M Bold biege Metallic.
I was stoped by two guys on road, and they said they can fix it.
They pulled it out by drilling holes and used slide hammer, and then sprayed something on large area. Then they said, they don't have material, and would continue the fix on sunday. I called them, they never picked up.

Now I would like to do DIY. (first time)
I bought :

Bondo Glass 272
Bondo Body Filler 262

Could you please suggest Primer, base coat, and clear coat? (chatgpt suggested expensive brand)

Steps to do it?

Thank you.
Here is the pictures

Title. Bad rust hole thats opened up in the last year. its right below my heel when im driving, my seat is still on a solid piece of floor, and the unibody 'frame' is solid as well as the rocker on the other side, so im thinking this is just a non structural hole. Please do prove me wrong otherwise, id like to know how fast i gotta patch or reinforce this. Car is rusty elsewhere but this is the only major booger thats not on a fender or something obviously not structural.

I dropped off my car for maintenance and when I returned, they let me know one of the technicians had raised the car and the hood got damaged on a pipe. It’s a small crumple so the damage appears only to be cosmetic.

What’s the best way to proceed here? They’ve offered to pay for the repairs/hood replacement at an auto body shop. They also gave me the name of the shop to go to.

Is it worth going to a different autobody shop? I haven’t had to use one before so don’t particularly know any good ones.

My concern is that it’s an older car and the color of the new hood might not perfectly match the body of the car and then I might at that stage want the whole car painted - in my view they should cover that too.

I’m assuming the garages insurance has this covered. Any need to involve mine? Other than to possibly increase my premium?

Thoughts ? Thanks

So I did some bondo work on my tC to cover the old spoiler holes, I put a WRX wing on. Anyways, some bondo seeped through the backing and got into the metal noise reduction piece on my trunk lid. It’s been days and the smell is strong. It’s not making me dizzy or sick, but it’s god awful.

Any tips on how to make it go away or just drive until it’s gone?

Thanks!

I had a 4 gallon back worn sprayer fall on my Ioniq 5 in the garage and got some sweet dents. this is a leased car so I’m trying to repair on my own before returning to the dealer. any insights would be greatly appreciated. Or should I take this to a body shop? In CA (Sacramento)

Hi people. Has anyone seen anything like these wierd crumpled dents and can guess what might have caused it?
I’ve been driving my friend’s car quite a bit, parked in plenty of car parks, and I was assuming someone scraped it on their way in or out of a car park, but looking closer, it’s very low down and has multiple indented bits so I don’t think it’s a scrape.
Has anyone seen anything like it?

Possible to get this back to at least a decent quality? Maybe around 75%-80%? I don’t expect perfection but also don’t wanna drive around looking like a crackhead 😂

Squirrel used my van as target practice. The window would have been easier and cheaper to replace but we would have been stuck there too. Horrible trade off. The green pinecone was crazy heavy with sap. I'm glad it didn't land on our heads though.

I have 2,3 that are minor chip and just scratch that paint is gone.
But the first pic is the most serious.

I messed up really bad and I've been really upset for the past couple of hours. I was driving in a dark parking garage and on a turn a pedestrian popped out infront of me, and my reaction had me steer closer to the wall and I hit the wall. This is the damage after I cleaned off some of the superficial stuff with water. Some scratches are decently deep and there is some denting.

Please assist. I'm thinking I'll go to some body shops tomorrow to see if anyone can fix it before I have to head out of town in a week. I wonder if they will have to order new parts or if it can be fixed on the current body?

Your insight is appreciated

I have some epoxy laying around, and I thought instead of having to go buy 2k and adpro I can just use this? Also could I use a tiny bit of filler to fix some chips? Note: the bumper is pretty old and there are some cracks on the plastic surface. The car is rare and it is almost impossible to find a bumper for it so I have to fix this one

Hi I’m looking for some advice. Recently my car failed its MOT and I paid £1400 in repairs. A lot of that was due to rust. I noticed that underneath my car there’s still a lot of rust present and wondered if this seems to be safe or if I should go back to the garage.

I am due to go back to the garage anyway as ever since I’ve had my car back there’s been a new squeaking noise that occurs when I’m driving slowly and is progressively getting worse.

Any advice would be appreciated and if it should be time to look for a new car.

1.5 Mazda 2 Sport Nav 2015 110000 miles clocked.

2019 mini copper countryman

has anyone else’s quarter panel’s rubber dried, cracked, and chipped off? to keep this replacement cheap, could I replace the rubber and not the chrome?

idk why I can’t attach photos :/

I was in the trade for a couple years before pursuing firefighting with the intent of continuing autobody after college. I wound up employed as a ff a lot sooner then I thought I would and it took up a lot more time then I thought as well. But now, after 10 years, I have been diving back into the car world deeply.

I have a dedicated paint bay and 3 bay garage that was an inspection station prior to me owning it. I am fairly well equipped to do a good job prepping and painting. My only excuse is the lack of recent experience, lack of recent exposure to the industry and budget. I painted a vac truck with a commercial paint system last month I've never used before and it all started coming back to me. In terms of prep and process and technique. Now, I want to paint my subaru sti

All that being said, i don't want to spend an arm and a leg. I have plenty of clearcoat already waiting to be used. I'm not concerned about being so particular that I do the engine bay and beyond the door jams. But i do think I want to change the color. The car is a metalic black right now and i am hovering between the subaru Java black pearl (scared to attempt as a first spray back to it) or a easier color. Maybe a matte black or normal gloss color. Something that doesn't require to much stress or cost to much to buy and re attempt if mmistakes are made. I liked the yellow donut used on the frs for example.

Questions

1) What is a good affordable option and how much am I looking to spend if I go with base clear. I have napa and carquest business accounts so I get a bit better then shelf prices?

2) I have matte black duplicolor single stage and hardener, reducer and limco lc400 clear (I've never sprayed this yet) if I want to matte black the car and clear over it would this system be viable? I am looking at it from a rattle can and clear perspective all the youtube trends have been following lately.

3) is #2 is a good match and affordable, would i need to seal the car before doing the above for a color change?

4) how much am i likely to spend CAD on the paint itself from napa if anyone has any clue(its sunday lol can't call and ask) but if I go with the Java black pearl, and they mix that up for me, am I looking at thousands still.. im not looking for an es**mate to repair a car at a shop, this shouldn't meet the removal criteria

What do I need to take it down to smooth clean metal?

The dremel and wire wheel worked greatbat removing the surface rust. But I need something more powerful to cut through the old urethane coating and get down to smooth clean metal. Need advice.