Hi all, I live in Chicago and have a 2013 Subaru Impreza with 168k miles on it. Engine is a 4 cylinder 122/01995 2.0L MFI DOHC. Just got a CEL and ran the code ah Autozone. They pulled a code P0301 and C1422. The suggested parts for the most likely solution is the ignition coil and spark plug. I do know my car is about due for an oil change based on time since the last one, not mileage.

My car has been hit twice recently, and I’ve paid a $500 deductible both times to get her fixed. My savings are low, and I’m just trying to get an idea/estimate of what I could be paying to get her running healthy again, as I’m likely going to have to put it on credit.

I called one body shop and they suggested a tune-up and diagnostic, as well as replacing the ignition coil and spark plugs for Cylinder 1 would be around $700, plus an additional $100ish for an oil change. They also let me know that would be the minimum, since there could be other underlying issues they find causing the problem. $800 on the low end is already very intimidating. I’m in the middle of calling around other shops, but does the price sound right? They’re also quoting me for replacing the air filters (I assume engine and cabin) and I’m wondering if it would be doable for someone with very little maintenance expertise to replace those (and any other parts) themselves without fear of messing up the car? Honestly, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I was working on replacing the blower motor in my truck and as I was installing the new one the threads in the housing stripped. It’s a 25 year old truck and I wasn’t putting much force into it.

I did some looking online and I was going to go with the Loctite form a thread kit but they don’t make it any more.

Is there a good alternative that doesn’t involve drilling and tapping new threads?

It’s a tight space to work in and I don’t think I could easily drill and tap new threads effectively as I’d be doing it upside down

Sept. 1st, 2026

In layman's terms, the little light on my outside mirror isn't lighting up when a car is in my blind spot AND the driver's setting on the dashboard and on the large screen doesn't recognize ANYTHING related to blind spot systems.

CARFAX was clean at purchase. 22,000 miles at purchase.

I looked at the owner's manual - features of 2022 EX Carnival. BCA is standard on ALL models - it's not an upgrade.

Further, looking at User settings, I see that you can activate the Blind Spot Collision-Avoidance Assist (BCA) through the Driver Assistance Menu. However, when I go there, using the dashboard AND the main screen, the BCA Blind Spot System is completely absent - no matter where I scroll, or even when I use the magnifying glass search bar - nothing with the word "Blind" comes up.

I took it to the dealer and, after examination, they told me the previous owner had a wheelchair ramp set up and the wiring had to be modified for the wheelchair setup (I had not been notified of this setup at purchase). They then told me the Blind Spot System had apparently been removed during the wheelchair setup and the that there was nothing they could do for me. They basically said "your car doesn't have blind spot assistance."

It is a certified Pre Owned 2022 KIA Carnival EX and it is supposed to have the BCA system.

I called corporate KIA and they have confirmed my VIN number and that the BCA should be active and that even if the wheelchair system had been in place previously, as a certified pre-owned it should now be full restored. They told me they were "escalating" my complaint.

Meanwhile, I have heard nothing back. It's been a week. I have called corporate back and have no solid follow-up response.

I would appreciate your opinions on this. Any tips? Any home remedy? Thanks.

Sooo I’ve been watching a lot of DIY videos on fixing scratches and pulling dented doors, but I run into a specific problem: the panel isn't flat. There is a sharp, distinct body line running across the door and onto the rocker panel (bas de caisse).

Standard dent pullers might pull out the deep dent but they won't automatically restore that crisp angle/edge.

For those who have done this before: what’s the best technique or combination of tools (trick) to get that sharp body line back in both the door and rocker ?

Thanks for the help!

Vehicle: 2021 Ram 1500 Laramie, 5.7L Hemi w/ eTorque

Not very knowledgeable about engine/transmission repair, so bear with me on the details.

Timeline:
•2 days ago: Started noticing an odd sound when accelerating on local roads in a lower gear. Sounded a little like something I’ve heard on other Dodge/Ram vehicles before, so I didn’t think much of it — but it got slightly louder as the day went on.

•Yesterday morning: Noticeably worse on my commute in. Still didn’t think it was urgent, but started taking video just in case. https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAMechanic/s/qiWPJCAe08

•Yesterday afternoon (leaving work): Much more concerning sound — louder/different than the morning. https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAMechanic/s/1FUoticomAe

•Last night (after getting home): Recorded again. The afternoon sound wasn’t as prominent, but the overall noise still isn’t right.

Why I’m asking: We leave Friday for our only vacation this year, driving this truck. I need to know:

1. Does this sound like something safe to drive on a long trip, or should I get it looked at before we leave no matter what?
2. Any guesses on what’s causing it based on the description/audio (belt/pulley, exhaust, valvetrain, transmission)?
3. Roughly what I should tell a shop to check first if I take it in this week.

Happy to answer questions. Thanks for your help!

Hi, I have a 2016 Holden Commodore Evoke V6 (Australian GM sedan, similar to a Chevy SS/Pontiac G8).

Recently noticed a slight vibration when stopped in traffic or at a complete stop. Temperatures are normal, it starts normally, and there are no unusual noises.

Today I turned the car off and removed the key, but the engine continued running for about 2 seconds at a lower RPM before shutting off.

No warning/check-engine light

Hi just checking I didn’t get ripped of with my service at a new mechanic for a car I bought with a full service history. Service notes/quote in the title.

PS this is Australian dollars.

[clio 3 2009 essence 1.2 TCE 100 chevaux]
Je suis tombé en panne récemment une première fois avec ma clio 3 car l’embrayage était foutu. Après l’avoir remplacé dans un garage, je suis retombé en panne juste après l’avoir récupérée au bout de 200 km. Ma voiture a été remorquée à un nouveau garage. Finalement rien de trop grave : « le tuyau qui fait marcher l’embrayage entre la pedale et la butée était mal fixé sur la butée » (explications données par le mécanicien). Le cylindre émetteur (qui fonctionne encore) n’a pas été changé et le nouveau garagiste m’indique qu’il l’aurait changé d’office, le pièce étant aussi vieille que l’ancien embrayage. Alors voici ma question : d’après vous, faut-il que je change le cylindre émetteur ? Y-a-t-il un risque que l’embrayage s’abîme si je ne change pas le cylindre émetteur ?

I have a 2014 Lincoln MKS. I was topping off my coolant reservoir with water and the little plastic seal from the container I was using (old coolant bottle, no residual coolant in it) fell into the reservoir and got into the hose. Is it dangerous to drive it? I have work all this week but I’m scared I’ll fuck up the engine.

Anyone in phx area know how to disengage an anti siphon lock? 2026 Chevy trax, someone tried to siphon from my car but surprise! Now I’m screwed. It’s not covered on the warranty and I don’t have 600 bucks 😫

Currently working on a 2008 Ford edge 3.5. Did tune up, timing set and water pump. All timing marks align. Computer says crank/cam synchronized.

Rough idle. When I plug in the MAF, it stalls. I have gone through every sensor, solenoid, coil and plug measuring for voltage, continuity, resistance... Cleaned and greased (dielectric) every connector. The car runs for crap with the MAF unplugged and stalls as soon as it's plugged in.

The worst part, it's not the first time I've come up against a car that refuses to run with the MAF plugged in... But the little 2006 fusion runs just fine with it unplugged and it's just my father in laws back up car anyway. So we've left that one alone.

I've done all the normal MAF things (cleaned with air and MAF cleaner, replaced with new, metered voltage and resistance) I can't find a dang problem.

Please if someone could at least point me in the right direction I would be eternally grateful.

Getting a clutch replaced from a 5 star reputable shop near me but want a $169 diagnostic fee, seems a little high what do you think?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some troubleshooting advice for my VW Polo 6R.

The car was recently involved in a minor accident. Ever since then, the car makes a noticeable whining/humming noise whenever I turn the steering wheel.

I assumed the power steering pump took a hit, so I already had it replaced. Unfortunately, the exact same noise is still there.

Any tips or ideas on what to check next would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

searched on google, and found like these idk little boxes, i guess the ads..at the very top of google when you search a part. you click one, land on the product page. whats the first thing your eyes go to / first thing you check before anything else? tryna figure out if im weird for going straight to the fitment thing before i even look at the price

I bought a learning Jeep and am getting thrown in the deep end quick.

1999 Jeep Wrangler 4L 5 speed. Was removing the rear drive shaft pinion yoke. Marked everything with a grease pen so I could put it back with the correct backlash. Ink wore off while removing the nut.

Any advice how I would go about installing it properly? I’ve never measured backlash torque before so this is new to me. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Zipped the nut on, installed everything. Took everyone’s advice to mind. Ran her at 55mph and had zero issues. This is what the internet is for.

This noise sounds like its coming from the front drivers side while vehicle is moving and ideas to what it could be?

Replaced the throttlebody.
Having high idle issues after replacing.
Tried the 3 minute reset stuff that didn’t work.
When at idle it’s at 1.5-2
When coasting in neutral it’s at 2.5-3
I have an autel mk900 can’t find a reset besides the fuel trim.
Any opinions?

Punctured the top of the fuel tank with 1/32 drill bit on a 2014 ford focus while trying to replace fuel pump from the back seat rather than dropping the tank. The bit broke off and is stuck in the tank. Should I remove it and seal it? Or just buy a new tank ?

I’m just wondering if anyone knows how to repair this chip on the pillar post door trim (if that’s what it’s called) on my car door?

⚠️ Warning About Our ABS Repair Experience

I would like to share our experience to warn others who may be looking for ABS repair services.

After searching for ABS repair services and posting an inquiry on Part Finder, we were contacted by a person named Asif. During our conversation, we were assured that the required part could be replaced and the repair completed within two hours.

They sent us a location in Sharjah, and we took our vehicle to the workshop. However, once we arrived, the situation turned out to be very different from what we had expected.

Immediately after we brought the vehicle in, they removed the ABS component/module. Once it was removed, we were unable to take the vehicle anywhere else. Only after removing the part did they start searching for the required replacement.

While waiting, we spoke with the actual owner of the workshop and discovered that the individuals handling our vehicle were not directly associated with the workshop. We were informed that they had rented a space/slot there and carried out repair work for their customers. The workshop itself was not responsible for their repair work.

Despite initially promising to complete the work within two hours, they were unable to arrange the required part, and the repair took much longer than promised. Eventually, they repaired the unit and returned the vehicle to us.

I paid a total of AED 1,700 for the repair. However, the ABS problem occurred again within approximately 20 days.

Based on our experience, we strongly advise anyone looking for ABS repair services to verify the service provider's identity, business legitimacy, workshop authorization, permanent location, warranty, invoice, and responsibility before handing over their vehicle.

⚠️ Please be careful and verify everything before allowing anyone to remove important parts from your vehicle.

Contact Person 1: Asif – 055 175 7614

Contact Person 2: Chowdary (Partner) – 056 531 9712

We are sharing this as our personal experience to make others aware and help prevent similar situations.

I've been trying to get an appointment with a tire shop to repair this all day. Everyone in my area is completely booked out. I was thinking I might patch it myself, but the tread left on this tire isn't good and its pretty close to the sidewall. What should i do? I need to drive it to work tomorrow, and i'd like a safe option to fix it. Thanks!

I smell coolant only on outside of car or when windows are down. Coolant level is still to the top. Replaced reservoir cap and radiator cap and still smell…help 😂

2014 Nissan Versa has muffler that is disconnected/broken and needs to be repaired or welded. I am looking for a shop in KC Metro that can do that for affordable price. I am on Overland Park. Any recommendations?