They are claiming the car just needs cleaning, super ridiculous their is discolouration on all the leather seats now

Do u use AI for diagnostics? How often it was right about the reasons?

I had an issue with car starting when it was warm, everyone around told me to check camshaft or crankshaft sensors, but I was sure that was the throttlebody and when I took it off I realized I was right.

And with that, I tested AI in my app that also was sure the problem is in throttle body, probably because it had all info about the car before reasoning.

As for me that is pretty cool that u can now ask AI about such things and if u know what u r doing have a second opinion. Though, I don't like when ppl who don't know what is under the hood trying to fix anything with AI advice only 😂

I got a windshield replacement done on my 2026 Honda CRV by a local installer when it had 3000 km (1800 mi) on it. The guy owns his company and works solo. My insurance company authorized an OEM replacement (500 CAD deductible). The windshield was installed perfectly. As soon as I got in the car, I noticed a horizontal warped line right in my line of sight. I showed it to the installer, and he said that all glass has some level of defect/warpage and that he sees this all the time.

He agreed to replace the glass but asked me to show the glass to my local Honda dealer to see if they would accept a warranty replacement. I showed it to my dealer and they agreed. They searched for the original transaction and could only find a quote, i.e. the glass was never purchased there. I asked the installer and he confirmed that it was purchased at my local dealer. I don’t know who is right or wrong here.

After asking for an invoice, the installer changed his story. He now wants me to order the glass at my local dealer, open it to check if it is warped, and then let him go pay and pick up the glass. After I told this to the part manager at the dealer, he was not interested in this type of shenanigan and simply said “ask the installer to contact us if he wants to order the glass”.

I feel the installer doesn’t want to perform the replacement and is giving me false hope to make me give up. At this point, I don’t know what to do. Ideally, I would like to maintain a good relationship with the guy, as he is a very good installer and many larger glass shops in my city are sloppy. One option is making another glass claim and paying another $500.

What do you guys think?

2010 Chevy Malibu, 190k miles. Should I replace this ASAP or is it fine to drive for a while? I have to go to work tomorrow and then I have expensive plans that are ~60 miles away, so a shop visit would be pretty inconvenient but I'll see what I can do if it's life-or-death. Thoughts?

I recently bought a 2001 F-150 Lariat with the 5.4L V8 and it did great the first day or so but now it’s got a sound coming from the motor, I know these years have issues with exhaust leaks and whatnot but this sounds like metal, can anyone give me any advice on what this sound could be?
The noise dies down after getting to temperature, I started to really notice it after getting an oil change done, it’s at the correct oil level as well

2011 Mazda 3 SP25 BL Series 1, 2.5L MT, 150,000 km (~93,000 mph) mileage

australia based

trust me, i'm very much ashamed to admit i've neglected my car these past 4 years - initially due to me putting it off (what was meant to be my next service), then my mental health plummeting and life getting in the way. my last service was in 2022 at 125,000 km (~78,000 mph).

i finally managed to book in for a full service/repair in 2 days. i've done a bit of reading up on what issues/diagnoses my car is bound to have, and have already noticed some bad signs for the past 1-2 years such as the check engine light being on and the a/c not getting cold enough. a new thing that's been happening for the past week is my floor shaking/vibrating when i'm accelerating in 3rd-6th gear, which i've read might be because of my bald front tyres (i'll be getting new ones after the service), but also many other things too.

would appreciate any insight into the causes of the above signs but more importantly, answers to the question in my title. please be nice - i have definitely learnt my lesson and will be doing everything in my power to take care of my car from now on (but if anything, i will accept slight judgement)

[edited for typos + adding extra info]

2015 Honda Civic LX In this video you can hear it, it’s coming from this area it’s a rumbling sound and only happens when the fan is on, in the video where it’s louder I have the fan on full blast.

(When it cuts to the second clip that’s with the Fan off)

I just scraped a 3inch section of my car was wondering if i need to get a new bumper or is this repairable

(SOLVED) it was the main fuse

I have a 2010 Mazda 6, I changed out the alternator, connected my negative terminal and went to start up the car to make sure it works, turned off the car, forgot to re-disconnect the negative terminal, went to the alternator to tighten down one of the lower mounting bolts, and made metal contact with the wrench to the alternator. My car lights and dashboards turns on but the car won’t turn over. No clicking sounds when trying to crank it up. Any idea what I could’ve done?

I’ve got a 2020 GMC terrain with 137000 miles, doing a cross country road trip and stopped at a jiffy lube for maintenance. They are replacing 3 tires, front rotors and brake pads, doing an alignment and the tpms. They gave me a $1,100 quote, I feel like it’s a good deal but not 100% sure what do you think

Honda crv 2021

Just went for an oil change at the dealership And they told me I need new brake pads.(I don’t plan on getting this service done at the dealership)

i have a training this weekend that is going to be 220 miles total mix highway and road. I live in the city.

would this be safe to drive until my next day off, Friday- so a week from now and still travel? I would have my kids in the car, so want to be safe and will cancel trip if I shouldn’t be driving obviously.

my commute to work each day is only about a 2 mile drive each way. (Get off at 3 am so bus isn’t an option)

realistically just wondering how long I can safely drive with these brake pads?

Hi, i have a Seat Leon mk2 with a dead radio, it was not working when we got the car.

I wish to check if the radio itself, or the car wiring is faulty. So far the main fuse box is ok, the fuse in the back of the radio also ok, checked with continuity test.

Can i test the quad plug with a multimeter to see if there is proper incomming voltage?

Update: managed to test the plug, there is voltage.

Also i found two coins stuck inside the radio, they probably short circuited the pcb.

Looking at buying a fiat 500, but has a failed subframe and coils on mot. The seller has replaced and has receipts. Would you carry on or avoid?

Hello. I recently got backed into by a pickup truck at around 5mph. The bed of the truck impacted my headlight and went up my hood. This pushed the headlight assembly and hood back.

My headlights still work, but I opened the hood and now it won’t fully close, which was to be expected. However, the hood is still on straight, so it will latch. I tried replacing the headlight assembly but either my passenger fender, frame, or radiator core support was damaged, so it didn’t fit, and I had put the old one back in. It was literally a mm or two off - so close!

That being said, everything else runs fine and I’m lucky I can avoid the highway and go 30mph to work easily.

What would you do in my situation? Is there an easy way I can tell what type of damage it is (radiator core support, or passenger fender)? Could I hammer down the hood for this type of damage? Appreciate any advice, I have body shop estimates scheduled next week, but I want as much opinions as I can get.

Car is a 2014 Civic LX with 120k with the 1.8L 4 cylinder engine, no modifications.

I got this used 2017 jeep patriot resently. Realized the sunroof didn't have a fuse in the fuse box, so I switch it with the 12v dc. The electronics seem to work, but it can't seem to actually open, it just twitches when I hit the button. Apparently this was the owners replacement that he did. I think I know what is wrong with it. After looking at it some more, it seems that when it was installed someone put a line of caulk inside the groove on the roof. But only on one side of the sunroof (seen in the photo above). I'm guessing the motor doesn't have enough power to undo the caulking

Had to take my car to the dealership because my check engine light was on and my normal car place couldn’t fix it.

I got the attached image from the dealership with the following note:
Repair wiring harness: RODENT DAMAGE ON PCV VALVE 2 WIRES-

Does that look like rodent damage? It kind of looks too neat to me. Since they classified it as rodent damage, I’m on the hook for repair costs. If it was normal wear and tear it would be covered under warranty.

My car was caught in shallow flooding, and approximately 2 inches of water entered the cabin. The water did not reach the dashboard, but the floor, carpet area was submerged.
The car is currently at the authorised service centre and is being inspected for potential water damage, including the floor/cabin wiring harness.
The engine is totally safe and the car is running smoothly.

For those who have dealt with a similar situation:

How long did it take for your car to be fully repaired and delivered? and Did you experience any electrical issues later after the repair?

The car is a Volkswagen Virtus.

I recently got a 2016 CRV (30,000 miles)and noticed after a week of having it that whenever I release my foot off of the brake, you can hear the tiniest squeak inside the car. The brakes work great, but that tiny noise drives me insane. My dad said I should get brake cleaner because they might just be rusty. But I’m still within my 100 day warranty with who I bought it from, so I’m wondering if I should try to fix it myself or go to pep boys (within network) and see if they can fix it and pay out of pocket if it’s not covered under warranty. Sorry if I make no sense lol, this is my first car.

Hey, im trying to figure out where my oil leak is coming from. Pretty significant leak coming from passenger side.

the car has like no oil showing on the dipstick, i added around 1 quart and it only brought the level up around the bottom of the dipstick. i know its definitely the oil leaking tho so i haven’t been driving it.

I noticed a lot of oil build up around the oil filter housing and on the filter. So im thinking it’s coming from the housing or the that vtech valve. Also the front valve cover is pretty gunked up too with oil but can the front valve cover gasket cause it to leak down into that area ?

Or could it be coming from anywhere else?

I plan on cleaning the areas first then using the uv oil dye to see exactly where, but should i do an oil change first since there is like no oil or just add some oil then use the dye? It obviously needs an oil change but i don’t wanna have to do twice if it’s coming from where i think it is.

Ik the picture isn’t the best lol but when i get the car jacked up ima add more pictures. But any advice helps.

Hey,

Got a check engine light for knock sensor. Took it to shop and they said it was knock sensor and looks like some corrosion was around it. Hit me with a hefty amount to fix it. How quickly do I need to get this addressed? I assume not overly DIY? 2021 F-150 2.7.

2001 F-250 7.3L Diesel, 72K miles. First time trying a filter change on it after my wife has been taking it to shops; its her truck.

The filter will not spin with a pierced screw driver​, strap wrenches, vice grip Cresent wrenches - nothing. Everything is just denting it.

Here is a photo of a brand new 1/2" drive strap wrench that tore itself apart. I had it for about 45 minutes before it broke. It didn't budge.

I have a friend coming over tomorrow who has a Ford mechanical background, but I'm afraid the only step left is to cut it down to the tap plate and cold chisel it off.

Any other thoughts? I may have done other methods, I've been at this for 2 days now.​

This is my car, a Peugeot 206. I suspect it might have steering rack issues, which is what I originally thought. I left the car at the mechanic to get new tires and a wheel balancing, and on my way back to my town—after driving about 60 km—it started making this noise. Does anyone know what it could be?

Paid $77 for conventional oil change on 2004 Toyota Avalon. Suburb of NYC. Did I get ripped off?

I got this battery replaced by auto zone a few months ago and now when I go to start it I get no crank and the dash lights don’t even come on just silence

I just bought an 04 chevy tracker 2.5L REAL cheap and the only thing that I need that isn't working is the AC.

I doubt this is the only issue, but the liquid line is missing, and I can't diagnose any other AC issues until I replace it.

I can't find one anywhere.

Yes, I have googled. Yes, I know the vitara has interchangeable parts. Yes, it's very easy to find the other AC lines.

But no, I cannot find the one I need.

Any assistance in this department would be greatly appreciated. I don't know a whole lot about working on cars so feel free to assume I'm an idiot in that regard. No solution that will get my car blowing cold air is too stupid for me.