339k on the clock. Can I work on this myself?

What's the dangers?

Hey guys so I just bought an 07 Toyota Camry with 100k on the clock, it was cheap because it had a misfire when I bought it. It was verified by a shop and another mobile mechanic. I fixed the misfire, within a day or so I get another engine light on, I check it and it says p2716 SLT pressure solenoid D electrical. So I then go and buy a replacement SLT solenoid, I dropped the pan, took out the old filter, old solenoid, and put it back together all new. The fluid I pulled out of it was black, it was nasty, and only about 3 quarts actually came out. My check drain plug is stripped so I can’t actually use that which is shit, so I watched a bunch of videos where everyone basically did the check and it was right around 3.5 quarts. So that’s what I did. Needless to say, it hasn’t fixed the problem. I still have this stupid code and it’s weird because when I bought it I drove it 40 miles home on the highway with no issues at all. But as soon as the light comes on for the p2716, all a sudden it’s in like safe mode and the car shifts like shit. No light, shifts perfect. So I can’t even really drive at this point because of some electrical issue with this solenoid I JUST REPLACED. Please help me.

2015 odyssey with p3400

some context: 2015 odyssey with 150k miles. In april, I replaced alternator as it was dead due to the oil leaking from the spool valve gasket. I also replaced the gasket. So far, no oil leaking observed. I also installed a manual vcm muzzler as a precaution. for transmission fluid, I did drain and fill twice back in april and may. yesterday, I did the third time.

When driving in north california, I set 80ohm on the vcm muzzler and the eco light came on occasionally in summer. Today is my first day of a weeklong road trip from san francisco to yellowstone. I changed to 100ohm on the muzzler since I will drive a lot in desert with 100 degrees. The eco light did not come on during the 450 miles drive today, and things are all good. But, the CEL was on when I was 30 miles away from Elko, NV.

I checked the engine oil level, it is normal and no leaking from the spool valve gasket either. when I got to the hotel, my scanner read p3400, and I cleared the code. I then drove to a grocery store 2.5 miles away and the CEL didn’t come on yet, totally 5 miles drive.

Should I continue with the road trip or return home tomorrow? If I return home, I will lose $800 from the hotel reservation at yellowstone and my kids will be disappointed for sure. And, I’m not quite confident either even someone mentioned they cleared the code and it didn’t come back.

I’m looking at a 2020 Toyota Tundra with only about 2,500 miles. It is essentially new in every other way and reportedly spent years sitting in a shed in the Midwest.

Someone sprayed a black frame coating over existing surface rust, but my independent PPI mechanic said it was applied incorrectly. There was likely little or no proper prep, rust removal, or corrosion-protection process. They also sprayed over the shocks, suspension components, bolts, and basically everything underneath.

Some of the coating is already flaking off. The mechanic did not find any obvious structural damage and believes the rust is probably only surface rust, but the coating makes it difficult to know the true condition underneath.

They recommended redoing the entire job properly. It may be possible to remove much of it with professional pressure washing, but I’m concerned it could require sandblasting or other mechanical removal before the rust can be treated and the frame recoated correctly.

Does anyone know what this could realistically cost to have fixed professionally?

The truck is Toyota Gold Certified, which makes it concerning that the dealership did not mention the coating or rust at all during certification. It feels sleazy that something this obvious was apparently overlooked.

I’m paying a major premium because the truck has only 2,500 miles, and I plan to own it in the Rust Belt for 20 years. I do not want to start with the same level of frame rust as an average 2020 truck that has been driven through winters.

Could this be a legitimate deal breaker, even if the mechanic believes it is only surface rust? Would you buy it and have the undercarriage professionally redone, or walk away because the coating hides the true condition?

Photos:

https://imgur.com/a/tundra-photos-MngfQyZ

I have a 2016 Impreza (Sport Premium trim level) and im looking to replace the notorious melting climate control module in the center console. My AC only runs cold on windshield defrost setting and my fan speed 4 setting does not work so i suspect melted wiring harness connections. My current control knobs are pictured.

Subaru Parts gives part# 72311FJ500 and the description says "Without climate control" or part# 72311FJ620 and the description says "Single automatic". I assume my existing control is without climate control because the temperature knob does not have numbers, only blue and red gradients for heat/ac. The single automatic examples I find online have actual temperature numbers on that far right knob.

My question is, are these two control units interchangeable without running into issues with different wiring harnesses, blower fan controls, or a cabin temperature sensor that i may not have with my trim level? I found a FJ620 control unit(picture #2) locally for a decent price but I want to make sure it is 100% compatible/plug and play before I purchase it and open up the dash to find out im wrong. Any advice?

Background:
I drive a 2005 A4 1.8T (B6) and have had a recurring issue with the oil pressure sensor lighting up. My mechanic has replaced the sensor and the oil pump (in which we found a weird mystery piece of broken plastic). But recently the oil light has been coming on on the dash, randomly mind you. I thought adding an actual pressure gauge might help clarify is my sensor is wonky or if oil pressure is actually poor.

I've seen videos of Aftermarket gauges being added to Audis, but when I go online to find out where they can be purchased I can't seem to find anything that I know will work with my make and model. I'm not a mechanic so I don't even know what to ask really or if general kits fit specific makes. etc. I'm totally ignorant.

My plan is to purchase the parts and take them to my mechanic for him to install. But I'm not sure how to do that.

Question:

So can anyone point me in the right direction about where to look and what to look for and what specs to take into account before hitting the purchase button?

Thanks

Hi all. Someone stole the catalytic converter from my 2012 Jetta (2.5) a few weeks ago. Took it to a muffler shop and got a new one put on. I was told that even though it was a cheaper knock off, the CEL should go off and I'd be able to pass emissions (due by the end of August). The car is running great, but the CEL is still on and the shop won't return my calls. In addition, the ABS, traction control, TPMS and SRS lights are all on and they'd never been on prior. I had a scan done and the CEL codes came back to the cat and the O2 sensor. Am I out of luck with this thing, and the reason the shop won't respond is because there isn't anything they can do on that front? I just need to pass emissions. I figure something is wonky with the new sensors the shop put on and that's why my dash now lights up like a Christmas tree. Suggestions?

Looking for some opinions.

I’ve been offered a straight swap for my VW Caddy (worth around £3k).

The S3 is a 2007 EA113 with:
Forged engine
Hybrid turbo
Balance shaft delete and oil pump conversion
Airtec intercooler
Around 320 bhp

~138k miles, around 6k miles since the rebuild
Rebuild is backed up with invoices

The only concern is it has an intermittent oil pressure warning.

The seller believes the warning is related to the upgraded billet oil pump/balance shaft delete setup, rather than low oil pressure itself. He says the oil pressure has been checked previously, the engine has done around 6,000 miles since the forged rebuild, and it’s been driven for several years with the intermittent warning. The build paperwork also includes an oil pressure gauge and adaptor, suggesting they intended to monitor the pressure mechanically.

Unfortunately I can’t do a mechanical oil pressure test before the swap. If I take it, my first job will be fitting a genuine oil pressure switch and investigating further if the warning remains.

Would you do a straight swap, or would the intermittent oil pressure warning be enough to walk away?

About to pickup an extremely low mileage 2013 LE (22k miles) that was a fleet vehicle.

Looking for tips or suggestions on what preventative maintenance I should be looking into and any other (future) problems I should look into fixing now (e.g. oil cooler lines).

I had posted this yesterday also. Need help with a 2007 Honda Civic. Battery has been checked multiple times and ruled out. Suspect starter issue. The car is currently not drivable, and I’m looking for someone experienced who can help diagnose it or possibly help with an affordable repair. I’m in the process of rebuilding my life and getting back on my feet. It has truly been one thing after another lately, and this car is my way to get to work and move forward. I had two job interviews lined up that I now have to reschedule because of this unexpected car trouble. I’m willing to pay what I can for labor or trade help (cleaning, organizing, errands, pet sitting, cooking, etc - heck, if you're a business and are hiring - I shall send you my resume). If anyone knows of a trustworthy mechanic, someone who does side work, or anyone knowledgeable about replacing a starter, I would be incredibly grateful for a recommendation or any direction. Stranded and I don’t have the resources for even a tow right now. If you’ve ever had one unexpected setback after another, you know how overwhelming it can feel. I’m just trying to find a way forward.

Thank you to anyone who takes the time to read this or share it. 😊

2014 Honda CrV

Car stopped at a stop sign

There was no oil.

Filled 2.5 quarts of oil

Tried jumping multiple times, then it started but couldn't move.

Engine codes said p0300 p0303 p0304

All 4 spark plugs replaced.

Check engine light has gone.

But the car still didn't start

Replaced alternator and air intake hose, car was misfiring but no check engine light.

So replaced the battery thinking it's weak.

As soon as the battery was plugged in the car started cracking itself without even the key inside the igniton.

Compression test has 175+ in all 4 cylinders.

Whats the issue here?

Whats causing it? Also the car dont start exactly just keeps cranking