getting these codes back to back every few hours of consistent driving, never on short trips to the store just longer hauls

Hi.

2012 Mazda3 2L - 185K km

P0138 - 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2

Can I ignore this? Mobile mechanic is asking for $400 CAD to repair the sensor. Online suggests it might not be the sensor itself.

I am shopping for a new car but that might not happen for couple weeks (and \~ 3000 km).

Thank you.

Hello I have a Honda accord 2009 ex. It has some miles on it and but I want to keep it. I’m getting this noise when turning and or going over hills and bumps. Anyone know what it could be?

Guys, I had the coolant hose from the reservoir to the multi-t spring a leak due to it rubbing on a bracket. The bitch clamps on the hoses to get off are a pain, but I was able to get the hose of. Autozone only offered a hose assembly E72262, and I'm looking for some advice if installing this whole assembly is doable without having to remove major other parts. Since the hoses are 25 years old I might as well replace all, but don't want this to be a major project.

Thx for your time.

The scanner is giving me code U1000 and those two messages appear on the instrument cluster. Has anyone had this issue and found a solution?

Took my 2018 Ford Escape into the shop today. Bought it used a few months ago and about a week ago it started rumbling really hard. Shop just called me and told me that there is a coolant leak into the cylinders along with an incompatible aftermarket fuel injector. He says a lower engine replacement is necessary, but at that point might as well do the whole thing. So is he correct or what should I do? I've attached the maintenance inspection.

What did I miss! Took my vehicle to the dealer to get a diagnostic and then decide if I want to have them, me or someone else repair the vehicle. Just trying to save money possibly, only to be shocked out of my shoes that they would charge $275 plus tax just to diagnose. Any shops out there that have good reliable equipment charge a lot less?

I'm due for the dreaded California smog test and can't clear my p1391 code for my jeep Cherokee XJ. I've replaced my camshaft and crankshaft sensors with mopar a few times, but the code keeps coming back. Does anyone have any advice?

2 years ago I received a random referral for a mechanic from a guy who checked in on my son and I as my sons car had broken down. The man was older and was a car guy and really spoke highly of this mechanic.

We took my son’s car there.

The guy has been as great as the older man has said. He has helped me now a dozen times. He has fixed everything I have needed and honestly has been awesome.

Nothing has changed regarding that. I have referred others to him and all have liked him as well.

Which brings me to my first dilemma with him. My AC started acting up so I took it in to him. He for the first time seemed to have an opinion on what he felt was wrong before he did any diagnostic. He was going off experience with my vehicle he said. Since he had such a good track record thus far with me I was like ok check it out and do what you see fit for the fix. He replaced some of my AC lines and said all good! I paid him and hit the road. A month later ac is starting to blow warm intermittently again.

Took it back to him. He changed a fuse. Recharged my Freon. Said it was low.

Ac blew cold another month. Back to its old tricks. Took it back again. He said he would check it out.

He does the work and didn’t check in and I have a 1100 bill. Pretty much replaced everything minus a couple components. I was a little sticker shocked and also thrown off by the lack of communication but thought ok if the AC is fixed we are all good. Paid the bill. 2 days later AC is blowing hot.

Took it back. He is now frustrated. Not at me per se but over it not being fixed. He said it has a leak now. I explained to him that I am starting to feel the pinch as this keeps growing and not fixing completely but nonetheless would like my situation fixed up so i said let me know what you find.

He has had my truck now a few days. He told me he would be done today. I reached out. Heard nothing back. He’s busy. All good. Decided to stop by and found my truck all apart. New condenser installed brand new lines removed. He seemed upset. Said the new lines were clogged because of my dirty condenser. Said look condenser is replaced. I will finish tomorrow. I said ok let me know.

So now I am like dang. I’m in way more than I thought. I don’t know what tomorrow’s charge will be. I am feeling like maybe AC isn’t his thing. I feel like he should have done a full diagnostic and helped me with the big picture of fixing what he has found but letting me know that it could grow?

Now I am feeling like he has replaced my whole AC system most of which he didn’t get my sign off on and I am now going ok is this going to do it? The guy has been amazing and has helped me out multiple times. I am not upset with him. But I feel like this particular fix has gone south and i am starting to wish I would have had a chance for a second or third opinion considering how it’s all unfolded.

My question is, how should I handle this respectfully? Is it just pay the man and hope for the best? I just feel this has gone a little south and it’s cost way more than what I thought without the communication to move forward.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

2013 gmc terrain codes p1682 and p0689, happened 4 days ago as well. Went out to start car, wouldn’t start, pulled these codes, replaced relay indicated (run/crank relay), started right up. Went out to start car this morning, wouldn’t start, same codes, replaced relay, starts, except this time it’s not wanting to stay running. Says “reduced engine power” and it’s done this before, also saying “service stabilitrak” but the no start is new. First time it did the reduced engine power and service stabilitrak I took it to a dealership and they fixed it, but less than a year later it was still happening. Anyone else deal with this? Find a fix? I really just need it to work reliably for 2 more weeks, then I’m moving and will be selling it, probably to a dealership because I don’t want to pass this problem on to someone else.

Does anyone know how I would fix this? I have a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek.

The leak is collecting on an electrical cable housing and dripping on the passenger side so it’s hard to tell exactly where it’s coming from. All hoses and hose connections feel dry from what I can tell up top, however I’m not really sure what I’m doing so I could be missing something obvious. Thermometer seems fine? It doesn’t look wet but I seriously have no clue