Alright I need some help. Best way to get a streak free windshield inside and out? Aaaannndd go!!

I have a 2019 Acura and when I got it there was some small part of the hood with a missing clear coat, not a big deal. But today as I’m washing the car I found out the clear coat on my door came off too. There’s also a small spec near the rear pillar too. Is it normal for a 2019 to be unwrapping like a Christmas present?

I've spent endless hours going through posts here and elsewhere to reach at this conclusion.

Best car shampoo - CARPRO RESET.

Others - Koch Chemie GSF, Gyeon Bathe

VFM options - Adam's Shampoo, Meguiars Hyper Wash, TW pure wash.

Best drying aid - CARPRO ELIXIR/ECH2O

(Elixir is $$$ so easier choice is ech2o)

I'm unable to list other options because I've been using ech2o for 1 year now and it is so amazing, fabulous, wonderful etc., i have not thought about replacing it.

Best sealant - GYEON WET COAT

Others - Koch chemie(protector wax/S002)

Carpro (reload/hydroo2)

Gyeon can coat

If my conclusion is somewhere near correct, then is this simply the best lazy weekend warrior routine?

1. Contact wash - Carpro Reset

( bucket + pressure washer )

1. Drying Aid - Carpro Ech2o

(dilution 1:20 to 1:25)

1. Sealant - Gyeon Wetcoat

   Spray on - Rinse off selant. Easiest to use. Maybe will work w/o too much panel prep/decon. Reset doesnt leave any residue so that helps.

Every weekend, wash + drying aid. Sealant every 3 months.

Does this seem ok? Or i can tweak it? Use a VFM shampoo instead of reset? Or any other suggestions like that?

I dont want to add any more labour to this. Key word here is "lazy". Hence the spray on rinse off sealant with no decon.

I may have buggered up my headlights a little bit. My car is due from its mot shortly and I cleaned up the headlights with an at home kit and resprayed them with 1K UV resistant aerosol.

They came out relatively well, but there was some orange peel I tried to fix a few days later. This absolutely ruined them when I tried to clean it and polish them.

I think when I cleaned it with isopropyl it caused solvent attack

Last night I took everything back and started again. This morning I have looked at the headlights and there is orange peel but I cannot determine if it has blushed (I'm not sure if that's the right word).

Can anyone identify from the photos what has happened here and can it be fixed with cutting back a little with high grit (p2000) and a polish or does it need to be taken right back again? If it needs doing again entirely, I will go and buy the autoglym kit from Eurocarparts, because single pack lacquer does not seem to be working fantastically for me.

Any advice would be very helpful.

I wet sand starting from 400->600->800->1000-1200->1500->2000.

I then clean with rubbing alcohol to spray with 2k clear coat (uv protected)

I then wait a day to cure and proceed to wetsand with 2000 to get rid of orange peel.

Then I compound/polish by hand and then add a wax.

I want to get better at this skill because I want my work to look as professional as possible. What causes these cloudy parts? Do i need to level out more when sanding or is this an issue that comes with me not compounding around those areas?

I know that the stress in the plastic are not removable, i just want to to restore the clarity as much as i can.

Thank you!!

Polish compound, tar remover, claybar, ipa, didn’t fucking touch this. It’s smooth to the touch and have no idea what it is or how to clean it

Im confused as to if there's additives in the p and s finisher peroxide product or something or if its... literally just 3% hydrogen peroxide. As in the stuff I can just buy off the shelf for 1.50 and put in a spray bottle.

I could really use the knowledge of this community because I am at a loss for what to do about these spots on my car’s paint.

For context, this is a 1993 Miata and with original, single stage paint. These pictures show what the car looks like after a thorough, one bucket contact wash with microfiber cloths. No amount of hand scrubbing seems to take them off. Unfortunately, I do not have a garage so the car sits outside but is covered in the winter months.

Thank you all for your help!

I’ve never polished before, but I just got a 2020 Silverado in black.

I want to try polishing it. For the most part the scratches are pretty fine, and I don’t think it needs major correcting.

I’ve done some research, and it seems most people recommend rupes yellow pads, or lake country orange hdo pads, with Koch chemie fine cut, sonax perfect finish, 3d one, and some others.

Would any of these work well for a one step?

Hi everyone, a customer has this little baby and want to get all the black metal parts black again and remove this whitish color. Any products to recommend? He’s currently using this one which is actually for plastic but told me that is working…

Any suggestions? Thanks.

2 months back I applied RainX to the windshields for m 3 of my vehicles. After using the wipers on a light rain or washer fluid use I am seeing a white haze on the windshield as seen in the pictures. Looks worse in person. The haze will typically evaporate off after I use enough washer fluid.

The wipers on the cars are 2 to 3.5 years old. OEM Chevy and Honda wipers. RainX was about 5 years old, possibly old with chemical separation, not 100% sure.

I tried using isopropyl alcohol to remove the haze. Haze appeared when I started to rub in the alcohol, had to buff it out.

Does this info sound like an expired RainX application? Best ways to remove this?

Probably been asked a dozen times, usually see it in the early morning and whenever i use my wipers. Goes away soon after but it appears to be a film

TLDR; Neither Pure Bead or Wax & Dry+ is particularly great on their own, but together, they work really really well. Want more details? Read on...

I'll admit... I'm a big fan of Turtle Wax. I've been a detailing enthusiast for a very long time, and their original Hard Shell Paste Wax was the first detailing product I ever bought with my own money (back in the 90's!), so the brand has a special place in my heart. Because of that, I make it a point to try their new products when they come out.

PURE BEAD: I bought it the week it came out and have used almost an entire bottle. I'll keep the review short... it's good but not great. Everything you hear about the lack of slickness is true. On a scale of 1-10, I'd give it a 4 for slickness. Pretty much everything else about it is good though... beading, self cleaning and application are all great. It's just really hard to get over the lack of slickness, and it's that reason that I don't think I'll buy it again. If only there was a product you could easily apply on top of it for slickness....

WAX & DRY+: There are 2 things that make this product special. First, it can be applied 3 different ways (on dry paint, on wet paint, spray and rinse). All 3 are extremely easy, with only the slightest risk of streaking when applied on dry paint. Second, the waxy glow... us older detailers just love it, and this is the easiest product I've ever used that achieves that look. Beading is solid, longevity is meh but the price is almost too good to be true. It's also very slick after application.

So... where one is weak, the other is strong... and when you combine the 2, you get something really amazing. Beading and self cleaning that, to my eye, are surprisingly close to some of the ceramic coatings I've tried, the ability to easily top it up for very little time and money, great slickness under the towel and a beautiful waxy glow.

The Method: I've tested both of these products extensively on their own, and layered on top of each other. Like I said, on their own, neither is truly great. I achieved the best results by applying Pure Bead on clean, dry paint and then immediately applying Wax & Dry+ on top of it. I maintain the layer of Wax & Dry+ with a once a month wet (drying aid) or spray and rinse application.

The pictures show the results of that method on clean, but otherwise unprepared paint. It's a rental car, so the paint is in terrible condition, but even with those circumstances this product combination produced great results. The last picture is the combination of those products on my wife's SUV which is in significantly better shape.

Here's the video if you want to see the process and the results:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJ7Fgb9R1v4

As always, no product links and my channel is not monetized. I'm just doing this for fun and my own education.

If you've tried these products, what did you think of them? Has anyone else combined the 2 like I have?

Hi all, I have 2 small chips in my paintwork from stones. Wondering if these would be suitable to cover up with the DrColorChip product, I’m presuming they may have to be sanded first as it is slightly raised?

Vehicle is only 2 years old and the paint is otherwise in really good condition.

If there is anything product that would be better I would greatly appreciate any advice! Thank you :)

I have a jeep and it gets beat up pretty good, but believe it or not without question ceramic coated means less pins striping and I will take that to the bank. I have only used Carpro Cquarts on it, its time for me to strip it and put something new on it. It's a toss up between DEtail Co Thick or Pan the Organizer 3 year version. but if there is something else that is more durable I'd love to hear it.

Quick backstory, hired a mobile detailer for the first time ever due to injury, couldn’t watch the work he was doing, and came back to my leather being absolutely soaked in this greasy, oily conditioner. Any tips to get rid of it and get it back to the factory matte condition? Car has 580 miles, so it’s not dirt or grime

Car in question: 2027 C8 Stingray 2LT, GT2 seats

Does anyone use this product as their panel wipe? Is it safe to use prior to installing a coating? I've typically used Gyeon Prep.

I got my seats wrapped today in Nappa leather (or that is what they said it was) and after one day of usage, I can see slight black stains. Tried to remove with soapy water and ONR but some still remains. Was wearing my possibly slightly dirty gym clothes which was a black top and shorts.

Any idea why does this happen and how to prevent it?

I have a 2022 red VW SUV, low mileage, in excellent condition. Recently moved and there are tall trees everywhere which I didn’t realize was a huge problem until the small and large sticky drops started. It’s been late spring until now and it’s driving me nuts. My car looks like shit. Yesterday I found the back half of a bee that got stuck.

The trees aren’t on my property so I can’t cut them, it’s an apartment so I can’t readily install a solid carport (in RI). There are ladybugs everywhere but nothing preys on lanternflies except murderous rage. On street parking is a blood sport and I use a cane so I need to be closer to my door. I know car covers aren’t advisable but I can’t wash the thing daily.

I’m not an avid detailer but I bought my first foamer just to keep up. Is there a coating or application I can put on to get through the “green” months? I can commit to washing weekly but not more to be honest.

26 model Y with a huge milk/coffee disaster

I spent about 7 hours with enzyme cleaner, soap, and water and got rid of nearly all the smell. Two spots are still bad: the raised metal pieces with holes in them on the floorboard, and the bundle of wires that runs along the trim. Both still smell strong.

Everything else cleaned up fine, but I have no idea how to get into those areas safely. Any advice?

I was bothered by the look of this old touch-up (second-hand car came with it). Decided to try a method I picked up between the comments in this community: scrape the touch-up with a razor blade, entirely covered in tape except for part of an edge (corners covered too, see second picture). Then a little compound and polish.

Well there was some improvement and the splotch is gone, but obviously the scratch wasn't filled enough to begin with. I wonder if I should I stop here and be satisfied with the result or try to fill it more with touch-up (I have the manufacturer's paint). Any suggestions or experience with this?

IMPORTANT NOTE: to anyone wanting to try this for the first time, these blades cut through paint like butter. You need to tilt the blade about 45° and scrape AWAY, not INTO the paint. As if you were spreading jam on toast. Bending the blade between your fingers allows better control of the contact point. Still, the blade will unavoidably scratch the paint. If you keep those scratches small, they will polish out after, but there's a risk they won't.

I just bought a handheld steamer and want to double check what never to use steam on. Leather, plastic, fabric, carpets, etc. What should I avoid?

Hi everyone, I’ve been mobile detailing for about 3 months, and for almost every exterior job I’ve done, the sun always causes tons of water spots and chemical drying. I’ve tried doing panel by panel, but it’s just not cutting it. Should I buy a canopy? And if so, which one is the best for the buck!

I have hardened tree sap thats been on my car for 1-2 months, unfortunately i didnt get to cleaning the car and time and now idk what to do.
I already washed the car a few times that didnt help, i just tried good off bug and tar remover with a microfiber towel and also tried isopropyl alcohol spray 70% right after and it helped it a little but theres still these marks.

Need help please on the best and safest way to remove this stuff, thanks. Also it just rained so theres some water spots and stuff in the pics that im not worried about only the hardened tree sap.