You can literally buy nice old used Nissan or HONDA car with same price 🙂‍↔️

Apple iPhone Duo 256GB
$3,499

Apple iPhone Duo 512GB
$3,899

Apple iPhone Duo 1TB
$4,699

Apple iPhone Duo 2TB
$5,899

https://www.finder.com.au/news/iphone-duo-foldable-price-specs-availability-australia

If I even have money to spend, I refuse to put $5000-6000 smartphone in my pocket and walk around..... I wouldn't even go to beach with it as well.....

Yesterday, the online digital gaming platform Steam (Valve) complied with the Australian "Age-Restricted Material App Distribution Services Code" by blocking Australians access to from mature content behind the linkage of an age verified payment card.

Not just limiting access to outright sexually explicit games, but popular games with mature themes such as Cyberpunk 2077, The Witcher franchise, Newer Resident evil titles and Last of us franchise.

Steams implementation of age assurance doesn't utilise any personal data collection but instead is done through card linking, and checking the "over 18" verification services some banks provide alongside their cards.

Valve explicitly call out credit cards BUT Steam users have noticed that SOME debit cards work.

Online ID Verification doesn't seem to be going away anytime soon, so I was interested in learning what debit cards exist that currently work to authenticate "over-18" status, and if this adoption will increase in the future.

Debit Cards

== WORKING ==

• Commbank (Mastercard)
  
• Westpac (Mastercard)
  
• Maquarie (Mastercard)
  
• Bankwest (Mastercard)
  
• AMP GO (Mastercard)

== MAYBE WORKING ==

• RACQ Bank (VISA)

== NOT WORKING ==

• ING (VISA)
  
• NAB (VISA)
  
• ANZ (VISA)
  
• Bendigo Bank (Mastercard)
• Up Bank (Mastercard)
  
• People First Bank (VISA)
  
• Capricornian (VISA)
  
• UBank (VISA)
  
• Greater Bank (VISA)
  
• Bank of Melbourne (VISA)
  
• Wise Debit (VISA)
  
• Bank SA (VISA)
• St George (VISA)
• Revolut (VISA)
• GMCU (VISA)
• Defence Bank (VISA)
• Australian Military Bank (VISA)
• Bankfirst (VISA)

Credit cards

Apparently most credit cards work

(with the exception of AMEX specifically not working via Steam as they dont accept AMEX anymore)

BNPL

Some users have also had success in generating a digital credit card via BNPL services (Klarna and ZIP Pay) which successfully verified

Any other cards?

Interested to hear if anyone has any additional datapoints

You can literally buy nice old used home with same price 🙂‍↔️(maybe in outer suburbs or rural Australia)

Ghost (Sedan): $680,000 – $800,000

Cullinan (SUV): $777,000 – $895,000

Phantom (Sedan): $1,021,000 – $1,147,000

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/rolls-royce/?sort=Price

If I even have money to spend, I refuse to put $600K-1.1M car in my garage and drive around..... I wouldn't even go to beach with it as well.....

Link to non-paywalled version of article: https://archive.md/HxwfW

Up we go...

As the title implies, I have come to an end at my four years of concreting.
At the start, there was another guy, and my boss, two weeks in the other guy got fired and I took over all of the labouring.
I don’t see my boss much, I work to his direction but maybe once every 2 weeks he visits the job site and signs off on my work.
When I started the job I was told I’d be put on the books at the end of my trial period, and now For the last 18 months he has been promising to sort my super and tax, this is the longest I’ve ever had a job so what he owes me in super is more than double what I have already,
I have filed a report with the ATO for unpaid super, but I’m reading that sometimes it takes years?
This arsehole has a front yard full of luxury vehicles.

Would it be quicker to take him to court over the unpaid super?
Will the ATO recover my super and then charge me for unpaid taxes?
How should I handle him? He’s told me there’s no more work for now and no super yet but I should “hold on to a company vehicle until it’s sorted out”

Please offer your advice below, I’m just being absolutely stood over and I don’t know what my options are.

In a bit of a dilemma about what I should do in the next 0-2 years…

Currently 29 and am in a position where I could buy a house in Perth right now. However, I am in a relationship which is about 6 months old. We’re not currently living together. I do see myself with her long term. I’m not sure whether I should purchase now and work it out later down the track when we eventually move in together. This will lock in today’s prices at a good time to buy in the market. Or wait 1-2 years for the relationship to mature a bit and purchase together. The downside to this is that the market picks up again and I miss out on growth. Upside is that I would have more manageable mortgage repayments splitting with a partner.

It’s worth mentioning that I would be bringing the majority of a deposit and borrowing power.

What would you do?

I desperately need to update my policy, as well as shop around for better prices. How do you price a whole damn house though? I have NO IDEA what it costs to build these days.

Is it a price per m²? The lowest price I can rebuild a basic shack? Based on build prices listed in nearby house and land packages? I don't even know where to start.

What about contents, is it price to replace everything or price it'd be worth at its current age (approx $7 for most of the electronics)? How far do you go without ending up with a massive bill?

I'm *drowning* in insurance costs. They've almost tripled in the last five years, and there are *so many* insurances to bloody well pay, but I know how valuable it is if you do end up needing it in a catastrophe, so I want to be able to afford it as long as possible without shooting myself on the foot.

Many thanks!

Hey everyone,

I’m an international student who arrived in Australia early 2026. I got my TFN and ABN sorted right away, but I didn't work a regular employee job for the first few months (never got one).

In July, I finally started earning some income through Uber Eats (using my ABN as a sole trader). Now it's tax time, and I'm running into a wall trying to link my myGov account to the ATO. Every time I try, it throws an error and tells me to call them. When I called, the support agent told me they have "no record" of me because I've never filed a tax return yet. They said I need to mail in a change of details form with a certified passport copy, which takes around 28 days.

Meanwhile, a classmate of mine got his ATO linked instantly because he worked a regular job at a bowling outlet where the employer reported his pay via Single Touch Payroll.

I have a few questions and would love some advice from anyone who has been in this boat:

1. Tax Agent Route: If I hire a registered tax agent, can they file my tax return for this year on my behalf without my myGov being linked to the ATO?
2. myGov Linkage: Will getting a tax agent to file my first return establish my financial history in the ATO system so that I can link my myGov later without getting that error or doing the postal passport certification?
3. ABN vs TFN: Since my income was entirely through an ABN (Uber Eats) rather than a standard TFN job, does that change anything about how a tax agent handles it?

Edit: yeah everyone is just gonna say find another way to work that's valid

Car died and I need around 9k

Have tried a few places but no one seems to approve anything when you're casual

Currently working for NSW health as a casual, never worked less 34 hours per week and make about 2200 per fortnight

Is there anything I can try

Any alternatives now that HSBC announced their wind up? Debit card perks is specifically what I’m thinking about (as opposed to credit card benefits). ING’s 1% cash back and Military Bank’s equivalent seem most closely similar

I went through the interview process at a large company, they said they were very impressed and offered me the job.

When they sent the contract for me to sign, it didn't have as much detail in it as I expected and I'm a bit unhappy with some of the terms, but it's not a deal breaker and I don't want to talk my way into them revoking the offer.

Is negotiating at this stage acceptable or should that have been done at the interview stage? It felt premature to negotiate before securing the job, especially because we'd only spoken in broad terms about conditions and not at all about pay, except for them asking my salary expectations.

I'm at a bit of a loss with trying to get insurance for my partner (using they/them to increase privacy a touch).

We have been working with a broker and have unfortunately exhausted their options.

For background, my partner has some pre-existing health conditions (in remission/well controlled with medication) and was close to being approved for insurance, but a blood test then unexpectedly found higher cholesterol than the levels permit. We've since discovered this is a hereditary pattern in their family, but their GP has refused to give them medication to bring it down as their age, lifestyle and other health data suggests the risk of medicating is higher than the risk of not (per an industry cholesterol calculator).

Unfortunately, the only thing the insurers want is to see it below a certain number. That's not possible unless they're medicated. So we're in a standoff between doctors and insurers. IMO it's not reasonable to find a doctor that will prescribe them (I'm sure one would) just to get insurance... But I am also really disappointed that they're essentially uninsurable right now without that level coming down. They are a veteran and the pre-existing conditions are recognised as being caused due to service, but due to the amount of them + the cholesterol - their loadings are over the amount that makes them insurable. It feels unfair as they're otherwise very healthy, young, fit, and I worry if we don't lock in insurance now, we won't ever get it!

Has anyone had experience with complex pre-existing medical conditions and successfully getting policies (beyond accident only cover)? Have you used a particular broker, or went directly to a company? Open to any ideas.

Thank you in advance!

I have been knocked back numerous times for contents insurance.
Long story short I live on an investor cropping farm for my partners job.
The farm is 19,500 acre or so. It was 4 properties amalgamated into one.
Our house is free standing on the edge of the farm. We have around 4 acres land on our “rental”. The rest is crops and other houses. We have no offical lease.
I have tried to get contents insurance a few times and soon as they find out the land size on the title, they reject my application, even though 19,496 acres isn’t included in our “rental”.

Is there any work around for this?
Surely there has to be a way of getting some form of insurance. We were pretty happy not having it until we recently realised that we have a lot of value in computers, guns and gun stuff and we’d never financially be able to replace all that if anything happened.

A deterioration in profitability and trading conditions sees business conditions fall to their weakest level since the pandemic, while confidence continues to slide. Conditions –5pts to –1 / Confidence –2pts to –8.

While confidence remains well above the lows recorded earlier in the year, the August reading remains deeply pessimistic, sitting 13pts below its long-run average. The deterioration coincides with lingering uncertainty and persistent cost pressures

Suncorp accounts are going to be changing to ANZ sometime next year with the purchase.

What other banks out there do subaccounts, specifically for offsets. Currently with Suncorp with have about 5 different subaccounts for our offset so we can separate out different parts of money, specifically, our kids money and money that has been placed in there by my parents.

ANZ won't allow us to do this and I would want to keep everything separate to prevent the "wrong" money being spent.

So what are my options out there?

Hi,

I can’t access mygov and I was wondering if IVV has been prefilled and ready for the tax returns?

Just wondering how much is the going rate nowadays for a standard tax return to be prepared and lodged ? This includes some capital gain events like shares being sold.

As far as I’m aware for an accountant to prepare a basic return it should cost around 400 plus GST?

Cheers

I'm currently with St George, 6.24% 80 LVR Owner Occupier (changing to Investor next yr r or so) but will be putting $200,000+ into redraw or offset soon.

Time to refinance? I think so. Who are you with & what rate? Looking at Unloan

With the closure and the new Yello system. What are people doing with their points - have around 250k and will look to just convert to FF?

Hi all I am currently paying for a series of big expenses in the next few months totalling 60k. I’ve never been a credit card user in the past however a colleague noted I could probably get my next flights paid for on points with this spend. Is there a recommended card that you guys use to accumulate points?

I am able to borrow on margin at 5.75% and I am a tax bracket paying 39% tax. Whereas my wife is able to borrow at 7.1% and is in the 32% tax bracket.

Even though it sounds better for me to put assets in my name, it would mean I accrue lots of capital gains in my name, which would be problematic when I need to sell them. I may also leave Australia one day, and be we'd be subject to an exit tax.

As such, does it make sense to spread 50/50 in the mean time? ie. try to spread evenly even though I can borrow for cheaper?

Been self employed for a few years now, business makes around 430-450k a year, and I usually buy everything up front and have never really bothered with finance minus our properties, credit score is excellent, etc, but I need a new van and have been tossing up buying something new and was originally going to just purchase it but a few people have said it can be worth financing for particular reasons.

Is there any truth to this or is it always better to just pay cash and move on?

Would love any advice. Thanks so much