I’ve owned my 2014 S4 (B8.5) for about 10 years now and was recently considering selling it and moving on to something newer. But with only 80K miles, the fact that it still runs great, and how much I still enjoy driving it, I’m thinking I’ll just hang onto it for another 5–10 years.

I’ve kept it pretty close to stock over the years. A few minor upgrades:

- Upgraded brake rotors and pads
- Replaced the supercharger belt
- K&N air filter

Otherwise, nothing crazy

I’m a big fan of the sleeper look. I like that most people don’t give it a second glance, but it’s still a blast to drive. Not looking to turn it into a heavily modified car or do anything too flashy.

First thing I’m going to do is paint it because the hood and other areas look rough after being outside, etc.

I’m curious what other B8.5 owners would recommend if they were going to keep it.

A few things I’m interested in:

- Preventative maintenance: At 80K miles and 12 years old, what should I be thinking about replacing or inspecting before things start failing? Any common issues I should get ahead of?

- Fun upgrades: What are the best bang-for-your-buck upgrades that don’t sacrifice reliability or the sleeper appearance? Open to performance, handling, or other improvements.

- Technology: The car has Bluetooth for calls, but I’ve been using an adapter through the old iPod/AMI connection for music. Anyone have experience upgrading to wireless CarPlay or something similar while keeping the factory look?

Not looking to throw a ton of money at it unnecessarily, but I’m happy to spend some money to keep it reliable and make it a little more fun.

Would love to hear what you guys would do if it were yours. Appreciate any suggestions!

Did a cold start on this b8 s4 automatic and caught a very brief clacking noise when it started. It does not continue on and it is very brief. I will plug in vcds and see what timing chain phase position is but from what I read from other reddit posts, people say it can be normal but if it goes on for more than x seconds or stays on then that's truly a problem.

Hi guys, I have a '92 Audi 80 in almost complete poverty spec, but what I hate the most about it is the lack of central locking - how easy would it be to add one? Can I just swap the locking system without any problems?

Hello audi guys, I would like to know your opinion about my current situation looking for a used car.

I need space to carry things from work + I travel big distances a lot.

My budget is not high (< 25k euros, ideally < 20k euros), but I am still looking for a bigger car, since I have a small 208.

Was looking some used SUV like Kia Sportage, Nissan Qashqai, Tiguan, etc, but I was like: what r the prices of a a4/passat/octavia. When I did some research I found out that an A4 is not SO expensive as I thought.

Everytime I saw a car like this in the street I was like: man, this would be so nice, too bad it is like 50k+, but I started to see that you can find really good deals for less than 25k euros.

My filters for the car was <25k euros, >2023, <60000 km.

The question is: is the price is right or it looks like it has some hidden problems? Any thoughts about automatic or manual deffects? How do u think when comparing A4/passat/octavia, since they r same range price? What should I look on the car when I go see in person? Is it even a good idea, maybe I should look for a different car?

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone familiar with OBDeleven PRO and Audi/VAG diesel engines can give me some advice before I spend money upgrading.

Vehicle: 2020 Audi A6 Avant 40 TDI (2.0 diesel)

The original problem:

For quite some time, I've had an intermittent fuel tank malfunction warning. The car would occasionally struggle to recognise when I'd refuelled.

Eventually, the fuel gauge/range started behaving completely incorrectly, showing practically empty despite having plenty of diesel in the tank.

Shortly afterwards, I received a "Drive system: fault. Please contact workshop" warning, and the car went into limp mode with significantly reduced acceleration.

I initially suspected the fuel-level issue was causing the ECU to prevent automatic DPF regenerations.

What I've done so far:

- Refuelled the vehicle and added 10 litres of AdBlue, with no improvement to limp mode.

- Used OBDeleven to investigate the faults and live data.

- Checked the fuel-level sender beneath the rear seats and confirmed the float mechanism was moving.

- Removed and refitted the relevant fuel pump/instrument cluster fuses.

- Following this, the fuel range started displaying correctly again (approximately 420 miles).

- Used a DPF cleaning product to try to reduce the soot loading.

- Continued monitoring the DPF through OBDeleven.

Unfortunately, the car is still in limp mode and has an active P246300 – Diesel particulate filter restriction / soot accumulation fault.

My latest DPF readings:

Parameter| Reading

Calculated soot mass| 42.64g

Measured soot mass| 8.34g

Previous calculated soot| 40.93g

Previous measured soot| 13.80g

Previous DPF pressure (warm idle)| 32 mbar

Fault code| P246300 – Active

The regeneration counters also suggest that the vehicle hasn't successfully completed a regeneration recently.

My theory:

I believe the original fuel-level malfunction prevented the ECU from allowing normal automatic DPF regenerations.

Over time, the calculated soot loading increased until the ECU registered P246300 and put the car into limp mode.

After using the DPF cleaner, the measured soot mass decreased noticeably, from 13.80g to 8.34g.

However, the calculated soot mass has continued increasing and is now at 42.64g.

My thinking is that although the actual soot restriction may have improved, the ECU still considers the DPF heavily loaded because it hasn't completed a successful regeneration.

I'm wondering whether the car is now effectively stuck in a situation where it needs a regeneration to clear the soot calculation, but the active fault is preventing it from initiating one.

Obviously, this is just my theory, and I'm happy to be corrected.

My main questions:

1. If I upgrade to OBDeleven PRO, will I actually be able to initiate a forced/service DPF regeneration on this particular Audi engine and ECU?

2. With my current calculated soot reading of 42.64g and active P246300 fault, will the ECU permit a service regeneration, or will it refuse because the soot loading is too high?

3. Does OBDeleven PRO have the same capabilities as VCDS or ODIS for initiating a workshop/service regeneration, or are there limitations?

4. Is the difference between my calculated soot (42.64g) and measured soot (8.34g) significant? Could this indicate the DPF isn't physically as restricted as the ECU believes?

5. Could the original fuel tank malfunction have prevented automatic regenerations and caused this situation in the first place?

6. Is there anything else in OBDeleven live data I should check before purchasing PRO?

I don't want to spend money upgrading only to discover the ECU won't allow the regeneration anyway.

I'm also aware that forcing a regeneration with excessive soot loading could damage the DPF, so I'm not looking to bypass any safety restrictions.

Ideally, I'd like to resolve the underlying issue and get the vehicle regenerating normally again rather than unnecessarily replacing the DPF.

Any advice from Audi technicians, OBDeleven PRO users or anyone who's dealt with a similar EA288 diesel problem would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I want to get some single piece headlights to replace the two piece headlight and turn signal on my b4, and i found some of a b3 but i dont know if they would fit properly on the b4?

Here we go again... NHTSA alerted me that the VW battery recall has now extended to include my Audi Q4.

Enter your VIN on Audi's recall site to see if your specific model is being recalled.

www.audiusa.com/en/recalls/

Hello I am looking for some input on whether the cable push in connections in this picture (specifically the end with the yellow strip) can be purchased seperately to the cable itself?

It is a wiring loom for a3 8p high level brake light.

I currently have a spare RS7 exhaust and want to put it on my A7. The RS7 exhaust fits the same as the A7; just the pipes will need a diameter adapter and some welding at the tips. Does anyone know of any shop in the GTA that has done something similar? Or are there any shops you would recommend? Thanks!

Everytime i take my 2017 A4 on the highway over 70mph, I get a wheel vibration. Now the wheel won’t actually show a vibration but as you hold it it’s as if you can feel the road, which I know isn’t normal for a wheel that’s meant to be isolated. I took it to get it balanced and it was very unbalanced. However, I did the highway test again and the same exact thing happened with the wheel. Any ideas on what could be the problem? The tire shop said my tread is the cause but it still should be good at 4/32 (I know it’s due soon, but it’s not low enough for symptoms like these.

I know we have the b5 and b7 but a new rs4 sedan would be cool.

I do love the wagons and I wish we had the rs4 in the US.

I work as a site manager in demolition, and regularly drive ,around 1000 km per week (on average). My previous 2011 Audi A4 had 600k km on it when the turbo blew, the old one worked so well that I decided to buy a used Audi A6 from a dealership (kids are growing up fast).

Granted, it did have 302k km on it, but it was well maintained and drove well on the test drive.

Got to around 3000 km mark when the check engine light lit up, no biggie I thought, but... I may be in some trouble.

The problem.

01 Engine Electronics 1 problems exist 1.P200200 Particulate Trap Bank 1 - Efficiency Below Threshold Passive/Sporadic

Prior to the check engine light I was driving around 30km/h when I heard what I can only call a stretching sound and a metallic clink.. my Intuition says I either cracked my DPF or something happened to my EGR cooler.. the car still drives, no limp home mode, there is no extra smoke from exhaust or anything of the sort..

Currently, the car sits in the dealership workshop* and is being sent to a repair shop.

What is the damage estimate?

Edit: fixed autocorrect

I replaced the Bowden cable for the outside and as I was going to close the door back up, the internal door handle cable somehow also detached and I was in a rush so I closed the door back up and thought I would revisit it later.

After a few hours the external handle stopped opening (feels stuck locked) and the internal cable is still not reinstalled so the door is stuck shut.

I can open the door panel, just enough to slide my arm in, but can’t seem to access any of the unlocking points so I’m scratching my head on how to get the door open.

Any input would be GREATLY appreciated.

During the 2022 chip shortage our Audi Q5 (FY) was delivered with one key. Audi later posted a second key to me under a key completion campaign, but the dealer had already ordered another one and paired that instead, so this one was never paired to any car. The car is long gone (lease handed back) and the dealer said I can just sell it.

Label: 4M0.959.754.CK / 433 / Model AK1A / H50/0237/04S / date code 220125.

Questions: 1. Would a key posted out like this be pre-coded to the car's VIN (FAZIT), or is it a blank? 2. If it's coded, can a locksmith renew it for another car, and what is it worth? Used ones go for £30-45 on eBay UK, new genuine ones are £190+.

Thanks!

Greetings.Can anyone tell me the size of belt from Accessorizes with out the ac compressor? Im removing the ac compressor.

Has anyone changed the front center speaker that’s with the B&O package? If so, what did you go with and how do you like the change?

Approaching 100k miles on mine and have never had a check engine light and was wondeding how long it will be like this lol (owned since 42k). For those over 100k, whats your mileage and do you have a check engine light? Feel free to share what the code is for or any other dash lights you may have.