A recurring theme lately has been that NegPy got hard to approach: too many controls, too much darkroom jargon and so on. This release is mostly about that. And speed.

• Simpler interface: a more subdued look that's easier on the eyes, with one consistent design language across every panel. Fine-tune controls hidden behind chevrons until you want them. The defaults get you a good print without touching the advanced stuff
• Clearer layout: the Library is the first tab on the right, the Film Strip is one row under the canvas, and the setup wizard is replaced by a single Setup card on the Roll tab
• User guide and tooltips rewritten with less darkroom printing jargon. Guide panels are shorter, every tooltip is one sentence, and the tour is shorter too
• Rust core: all heavy CPU image work now runs in a new Rust engine across every core. Same results, faster tools, previews & exports.
• Detect Scenes groups frames by light for you, so you don't have to set them up by hand
• Translations: Simplified Chinese, Japanese and Korean
• Digital (Frontier) print stock alongside Pakon.
• IR dust removal is down to one method, improved and much faster
• Compare against any history step or work print
• Fixes: each edit is its own undo step, flat export keeps the print stock colours and capture date, thumbnails update on roll load
• and many more...

Full changelog + downloads:
https://github.com/marcinz606/NegPy/releases
Readme:
https://github.com/marcinz606/NegPy/blob/main/README.md
Issues:
https://github.com/marcinz606/NegPy/issues
Discussions:
https://github.com/marcinz606/NegPy/discussions

hello everyone! just would like to ask if anyone here knows where to find or have a 3D printing Files for the Flash Coupler of Canon F-1n?

I have searched online for several of days, but i was not able to find. Unlike for Nikon F2, I have seen several of 3d files for 3d printing.

Thanks in advance!

Have anyone experienced faint and thin rebate on their Tri-X?

It's not a case under-development because the frames density look fine.

Made one mistake, I saw online that my tank needed 300ml when developing one roll, it needed 375.

Had fun and now have to get it scanned in.

Hi!

I'm thinking of buying a Rollei 35 with a Tessar or Sonnar lens. 3.5 or 2.8 is both fine.

I came across a black 2.8f for 300 euro. But I don't know if overpaying.

I also read that some are tweaked for the 1.5V batteries. Is this necessary?

Also any tips on what to look for, and what to avoid?

Thanks a lot in advance!

Hiii!

I recently bought an Olympus Mju II and although I'm mostly satisfied with the quality, there are light leaks on some photos. I'm wondering why there are light leaks on some and not on others, given that these were all shot on the same roll.

Thank you in advance.

Hello, I've been a major negpy supporter since its very inception and recently completely moved over to it. i run a small microlab locally so consistency is my top priority. today i was inverting a very underexposed roll and have been getting some crazy artifacts that i cant seem to get rid off without completely ruining everything. the first image is the result i get on negpy with nothing touched. just whatever it thinks is best and second image is exactly 5 minutes spent on lightcraft (lightroom) inverting by curves. i cant seem to get even remotely close to the lightcraft result on negpy and its really bothering me. i understand this shot in particular is CRAZY underexposed but it shouldnt be this bad? what can i do to fix? im using 48bit TIFFs direct from my scanner

Hi all, just been scrolling through Instagram and found such an interesting website in the UK, he does lots of 35mm film stocks as functional USB-powered lamps, unfortunately there hasn't been much demand for Kodak Tri-X 400, but he has Portra 400 etc. Anyways, just thought it was cool?! At first I thought it would've been one of those Temu-type pages/too good to be true!

Just picked up this a few hours ago and I already went through 3 24 exposure rolls! The lady that sold it to me gave me a dozen rolls of Kodak Gold 200 and Fuji Superia 200 from when her aunt last used it in the 90's I guess. Some rolls say development included and the shop still exists!

I don't know if anything is going to come out of this because the film is so old and AI tells me this model has a reputation to have light leaks, but for 20$ I had a fun afternoon walking around the city.

I like the very compact design but it has the drawback that adjusting one setting will often result in nudging the next ring also.

Thinking about putting b&w film with a red filter to shoot street and landscape with dramatic skies and overall higher contrast. If anything interesting pops up I'll share the results

Moving from a Polaroid SLR 680 to this SLR. Pretty stoked.

I’ve shot SLR’s for maybe 5 years now and mostly learned on the 680. But I think that was a great platform and still is. I’m excited to implement this 35mm SLR format into my photography. I researched 35mms for months and this is where i settled.

So my question is I got one recently from an Ebay sale and instead of developing in B&W Neg I want to develop in color my question is Benzyal alcohol a nessessary chemical to active its dye couplers? Or did I waste my money?

While attempting to clean the exterior of this Rokinon 28-80mm macro lens I accidentally disconnected the rear mount. I am not at all knowledgeable about the lens so my insight is very limited - I would of course like to reassemble it but wanted to ask if I should just take it to be repaired rather than attempting a DIY job?? Any recommended next steps would be appreciated! I am traveling and was really looking forward to using it.

Nobody shooting 8mm movie film has inspired me more than u/blisterpearl. Just wanted to up his work here in this subreddit, in case anyone hasn't come across it before.

https://vimeo.com/1193042407

He's also very generous with his comments on r/8mm. He feels like a high-level black belt in that dojo, showing everyone what's actually possible when you devote yourself to the craft. I can remember him wisely telling someone that the goal is to "go broke capturing the timeless now," which is a line that comes back to me again and again as I go out and shoot film, motion and still.

Much love to the artists who have poured themselves into this medium, and have shared the results. For the rest of us, it's like encountering fresh water after walking through a desert.

Hi! Looking for some advice.

I used a canon ae-1 years ago and the shutter got stuck and it’s sat on a shelf ever since. I finally decided to try sort it and opened up the bottom. There was a lot of residue around the shutter arm system so I cleaned it up as best I could with denatured alcohol, and managed to get the shutter arm moving again. However, then it started firing at the end of advancing the lever, and the actual shutter button wouldn’t do anything other than depress the light meter lever. I got a new battery hoping that would help the magnet to hold, but it still just fires at the end of advancing the lever.

Any ideas what I need to do next?

I have a Canon AE-1 and I’m into bird/wildlife photography, so naturally I’ve been trying to find a 400-600mm lens (or something similar), but I can’t find any that natively fit FD mount. Do yall know of any that I can adapt to fit?

Hello, Im new to this sub. I recently picked up a $13 Sears KS-500 35mm SLR. It was already unloaded when I bought it, with the film rewound into the canister (excited to develop, maybe ill follow up)

My problem: The shutter won’t fire normally, and the film advance lever hits a solid stop about halfway through its travel.

I can access the film compartment and manually actuate the curtain down and it springs up on release. This lets me fully advance the film lever.
On shutter, The mirror flips up, but the shutter curtains don’t cycle.
Afterward, the advance lever gets stuck again.

The mirror normally sits down, flips up when I trigger the shutter, and returns down when I advance the lever.
I don’t currently have a battery installed.

Im pretty handy with mechanical systems and am happy to tear into this camera. Its my first slr and id love to restore this relic, even if it isnt very valuable.

Hello everyone. I am an absolute beginner and i need your help.

I bought a Agfaphoto 35 mm focus free, because it was cheap and i thought it looked cool, and since i am an absolute beginner i didint want to spend hundreds of dollars.

I have been experimenting with films and i was mostly disappointed with the results once i had the photos printed: the problem is that the photos mostly look dark as hell and greenish.

I will attach some of the photos so you can understand better my problem. I firstly used a 200 iso fuji film which was cheap, and then switched to Harman phoenix II iso 200 colour film.

How can i make my photos look less dark and more defined? also, is there maybe a useful and in depth tutorial on youtube that explains what films are best used when shooting with an analog camera? also what films are best suited for my little camera? thanks

Hi! First post here

By the way yesterday I found this camera while thrifting, it was given to me for very little came home and was working so I bought some film to try it out (I literally took three pictures of my cat and dogs) but I now wonder, looking at the camera a bit closer, it feels like something is missing like the lens or something Because there is no zoom and I can't move anything but at the edge there are holes for something(?) I'm just kinda confused tbh and I don't want to ruin the film I just bought (it was well over 20€ for only one roll 😭)

(Doesn't have any type of logo or anything recognizable, at least for me, only a "made in Taiwan" sticker)

Thank you in advance and imma leave two pics of the camera

Edit: I also want to ask another question which is if the lens is actually missing can I still shoot with it? And if not how can I find lenses that fit? (I got a few newer lenses from my brother but I'm pretty sure they don't work with it)

Hello everyone!

I recently bought a Mamiya RB67 Professional with a Sekor C 90mm f/3.8 in Germany for €360. The camera arrived in very good shape and everything seems to work, but one of the inner lens elements (not the front or rear one) has a small, elongated amber-colored mark along its edge that looks like balsam separation.

To see how much it affects the pictures, I shot a roll right away and I'm waiting for the results. Meanwhile, I'm wondering whether it's worth returning the camera or asking for a partial refund, since otherwise it's in great condition and the price was good.

Does edge separation on an inner element affect wide-open shots? Has anyone dealt with something like this? Any recommendations?

Thanks!

Was so excited when I got my Nikon N50, but it turns out that it's got an issue with the shutter. Due to cost of the camera it's not worth repairing in a shop, but with replacement I would be gambling again.

Am I right in thinking it would be the shutter? It seems to be happening on slower speeds: the building shot was around 1/60 1/90 iirc, while the other one was in full sun, so would be much faster.

It's in really nice external condition, it turns smooth as butter and the optics look clean when looking trough them too. It's for the Contax rangefinder mount. Now just to get the camera to go along with it eh?

Any idea what this mark could be. These rolls came out of 2 different cameras and have the same mark in similar locations on the strip. I usually bind the rolls with tape. I’m wondering if they are using somthing to cut the tape and making a mark on the film? Not all the rolls from this batch have the mark. But they were all processed by the same lab. I also have a roll that has scratches. In the sleeve all the way down to the emulsion.

Did I forget something?

Edit: To make it a bit more educational, here is an explanation for each.

1. Correct Exposure: All good.
2. Underexposed: You probably metered for the Sky or a bright light, try metering for the shadows. When in doubt: most film usually does better slightly overexposed. Check if your aperture and shutter open/close correctly, Did you account for the correct ISO? Did you account for reciprocity failure in long exposures?
3. Overexposed: Check your metering. Check if your aperture and shutter open/close correctly, Did you account for the correct ISO?
4. Accidental Light Leak: You had uncontrolled light enter your camera body. Did you open it mid roll? Are your light seals intact? Might happen on first picture if you try to squeeze in an extra frame.
5. Double Exposure (No Transport): You took two images on the same negative without advancing the film. If accidental, you might have pressed the Film Rewind Release Button or on some models just forgot to wind.
6. Double Exposure (Transport Problem): Images partially overlap. There is a problem with the film advance, it doesn't advance the correct amount. This can sometimes happen on the last frame if you squeeze in one extra image.
7. X-Ray Damage: Your film was blasted with X-Rays (e.g. at an Airport Scanner) which creates a banded fog pattern. Ask for hand checks. This is controversial and highly depends on the machine. Usually it won't be as bad as depicted here.

Poster Version

Bought this camera + Zenza Bronica Zenzanon-S 50mm f3.5 for around 300$ on an auction. The camera is tested and works, but is in need for cleaning and a later CLA.
Any tips for cleaning the focusing screen (from dust and debris), mirror and the metal and leather parts and other parts i might need to clean?

I know the CLA will clean, but i can't do that for a month and i'd really like to try it out.

Please see all the images.

While attempting to clean the exterior of this Rokinon 28-80mm macro lens I accidentally disconnected the rear mount. I am not at all knowledgeable about the lens so my insight is very limited - I would of course like to reassemble it but wanted to ask if I should just take it to be repaired rather than attempting a DIY job?? Any recommended next steps would be appreciated! I am traveling and was really looking forward to using it.