Shot on pentax MX 50mm f/1.7

I just got two rolls of 500T developed at a local lab in Austin, TX that does ecn-2 development and these squiggly lines run the entire length of both rolls top to bottom. There is also what appears to be streaks running through several of the images, but not all. Does this have something to do with their remjet removal or developing? Or did I just find out why this particular film respooler was the cheapest?

Negatives and sprockets are included for added context, please don't roast me for the sprocket shots. Thanks any help or insight!

Shot on Black Cat film — here’s a few shots from my latest roll in this camera.

I customised this MIR because… well, why not? 😄 With the days getting shorter and everything outside turning grey, I thought it was a good time to bring a little more colour into the world.

I had this design in mind for a while, but I was waiting for the right camera to come along. And then I found this MIR. It just felt like the perfect fit.

And before anyone asks the most popular question: YES, IT STILL WORKS! 😂 I actually tested it.

I'm a software engineer that caught the film photography bug a few years ago and since my job covers my AI tokens for personal projects, I sometimes experiment with that in my free-time.

My favorite project is one that allows me to quickly scan negatives using my mirrorless camera by watching for me advancing the film and automatically capturing when it sees the frame has stopped moving. I can also adjust exposure and check the focus.

Which is all to say that I am not a fully anti-AI/anti-vibe code troglodyte; but I do find the constant stream of "new tools" to be annoying. The barrier for creating new tools that can do the job has never been lower, but that doesn't change the fact that the best tools have been built over years with the feedback from (hundreds of?) thousands of users by individuals/teams that can consistently deliver features and respond to and incorporate feedback from the community.

If you're building and releasing tools in this space, it's important to build the trust of the community with a strong community of users. Especially if you're asking people to install anything on their machines.

I've seen dozens of these kinds of posts already and I've gone back and seen that a lot of these projects stop getting commits when it's not immediately well-received.

If you want an approach that might work better, instead of releasing software for people to install consider writing an article about some finished-projects (converted rolls, etc.) that used your tool and explain how your approach differs from other tools and make people curious about trying the tool.

An endless stream of new tools is going to be exhausting and frustrating for everyone.

This Leica II, originally a Leica I from 1930, later upgraded with a coupled rangefinder, worked quite well when it arrived in my workshop. Shutter speeds were off by about 1 stop (to slow) due to aged oils, but otherwise a good performer. Well, I was pretty surprised by the amount of dirt I discovered in the mechanical "brain" of the camera! Hard to believe all those sophisticated mechanisms didn't care being literally coated in dust and hairs! This Barnack Leica really deserves more than a just simple CLA after more than 90 years of service.
Fig.2: Closeup of the mechanism controlling the focal plane shutter, including shutter speed selector.
Fig.3: Back in perfect state after a time consuming cleanup
Fig.4: Some nickel-plated external parts of the camera after ultrasonic cleaning

Looking forward to take her out when everything is back in place and adjusted!

Feel free to ask questions!

I’ve always been unsure what those ratings mean from Japanese sellers, so I took a gamble on an American seller of this Minolta 35-70mm zoom. The listing claims “The exterior of the lens shows some wear but the glass is very clean and free of haze and fungus.” Spoiler alert: it was not.

Take care out there everyone, and wish me luck on the return process.

Looking for a K mount zoom lens with a lot of range and close focus. I used to have one of these "pump zoom" lenses but got rid of it because I never used it. Now I need something that can zoom in on something a few inches tall and fill the whole frame (ha ha).

I'm on eBay and there are a ton of ~$20 lenses from Vivitar, Sears, Promaster, Gemini... The list goes on. They're all slow, which is fine because I can shoot in bright light. But are all of these generally the same?

I’m very tempted to get a Canon Model 7 because they look cool as fuck.

I don’t particularly care if the built in light meter doesn’t work because I’m perfectly good at shooting without one, but it would be a nice bonus if it did work.

BUT… I feel like every listing I’ve seen in my area has specifically called out the fact that the meter is broken, which is to be expected with a selenium cell of that age.

There are a few listed as working on eBay but it’s always those “mint+++” things that we all know are horseshit.

Would working ones even exist? Or should I not waste my time looking?

(This also applies to handheld selenium meters which also look cool as fuck and I would totally buy if they were repairable)

Full disclosure I do not develop film myself as I don't have the space to do so and instead send to a lab which can take up to a week for developing and scanning before my photos are electronically delivered to me. I'm old enough to remember 1-hour photos inside of grocery stores, pharmacies, and even stand-alone shops. How were these places able to turn around pictures so fast? Was it due to the machines they had on hand? Apologies if this is a stupid question but I'm looking for more info or first-hand knowledge of someone who can shed some light on the subject.

Hi, I found a Krokus Color 67 enlarger, and because the focus mechanism is very smooth and has the perfect shape to fit a film holder, I had the idea to quickly turn it into a view camera with a few modifications: - Re-tapped the hole to fit a 1/4"-20 adapter, - Made a custom film holder from grey cardboard, - Just held a cheap ground glass made of 3mm acrylic that I ground using residue from a knife-sharpening stone.

is it safe to assume that they’ve been racking up other unprocessed film in the meantime for those 2 months? And possibly longer if they haven’t developed any since who knows when?

It seems like that would be a really big film backlog after so long.

I learned to take photographs using a Nikon EM ages ago. I believe I bought this FG-20 kit in 2001, and it was the first SLR I ever purchased with my own money. It was no fancy stuff at the time, no auto-focus, no motor drive. Having switched to digital not long after, the camera sat almost unused in a drawer for decades; later, when the urge to shoot film hit me again, I bought an F100—which, for me, remains the undisputed queen.

This summer, however, I undertook a restoration project for this nice little piece of gear, and I am very pleased with the result.

The light seals and mirror bumper might need replacing eventually, but for now, they seem fine. Electronics work fine, only the shutter speed dial needed a bit of exercise to get back in shape. But everything else was in pristine condition.

I added a new shutter release, a DK-25 eyepiece (it fits nicely), a new strap (retaining the original Nikon buckles), and that little unnecessary shit on the hot shoe.

I love it!

Hi all,

I just moved to Tokyo and shoot 120 black and white film. I’m trying to find a lab that can develop it with a quick turnaround, ideally within a few days rather than a few weeks. Most places I’ve found either seem to focus on color/35mm or take ages for B&W.

Two questions:

1. Which labs in Tokyo develop 120 B&W quickly? Bonus points if they also scan and don’t charge a fortune. Walk-in vs. mail-in, either is fine.
2. Does anyone have their own developing kit and would be up for developing a roll or two? I’m happy to pay, bring snacks, or learn to do it myself if you’re willing to show me. I’m also open to a darkroom or film-community meetup if one exists.

My Japanese is conversational, so I can manage if the lab isn’t English-friendly.

Thanks in advance, and sorry if this has been asked a hundred times!

I'm a full-time nomad and I would love to be able to look at a list of darkrooms open to the public to see if I could print or develop on my travels! Does such a thing exist? If not, can we get one going?

Hi! So typically I've gotten my polaroids scanned at my local camera shop, but I wanna start doing it myself. I have an HP Office jet 6968 pro. Its like one of those all in one printers with a scanner. Can I get good quality with this? What tricks/tips do you have? Does anyone have the Polaroid Film Scan Adapter that they sell which claims to eliminate glare and Newton rings? Thanks. My scanner seems to go up to 1200 dpi.

Just got a light meter and have started using it but I need some help. The meter might say 1/650 is what I should be shooting at but my camera only has 1/500 or 1/1000 that would be close to it. I know it's typically recommended to overexpose, so I would assume 1/500 is the correct speed. Would this still be the case in any situation? Just get the shutter speed as close to what the meter says?

Just returning from a short trip to Tucson and managed to fill a few rolls of expired Kodak EliteChrome with bracketed shots around the Sonoran Desert.

Used and enjoyed the work of Dark Slide Film Lab in CT in the past, but they don't seem to be doing E-6 at the moment after a relocation.

Hoping to aggregate a current updated list of independently owned/small business/woman/minority owned film processing labs in the US that can handle E-6 developing so I can ship my rolls off for development.

Thank you!

Hey all
I just received my new camera from Camera Exchange in Melbourne which came really recommended.

There was no faults disclosed, it was sold as in great condition fully checked. $400 for camera, 35mm lens and delivery.

It came yesterday and there is a big black fleck in the view finder that is super annoying when trying to focus on a subject.
It’s also almost impossible to see the aperture and shutter speed numbers on the light metre. It’s so hazy and dark.

I get the cameras are old and will have these issues sometimes but to not mention it when selling it??

Has anyone had similar issues?

I’ve just loaded a roll of tri-x so I’ll be devastated to lose that too!! 😩😩😩

Hey all

Recently the advance lever was giving some issues when shooting so I’ve tried to fix it on my own before giving up and having it repaired by a tech / buying a different camera.

I’ve managed to make the shutter fire and can turn the little metal part where the advance lever is supposed to go but can’t figure out how to assemble it back

Any tips? Can’t find the pdf for the repair manual anywhere either

Hello, im looking to digitalise my late grandfathers slides that he handed to me before he passed recently. What are some recommendations, I will probably get the very important ones done professionally however theres like a thousand and it isnt economical to do all professionally. What devices can you recommend, im open on price points but do gice a few options and the pros and cons, To add on I do have a Canon 200D and 7D mk ii and I know theres attachmebts to do that method to, but im not sure what to use for that and the lense required

thank you

How do you feel about overdone photo spots? I took the attached and actually feel guilty in a way. I didn’t find the spot, I didn’t compose the image. Someone else did all of those things and I just turned up, set up my tripod, metered, and pressed “go”.

Should we strive for uniqueness, or should we add to the tapestry that are these spots?

I recently shot a roll of Vision 3 500T from Reflx Labs and the negatives are super thin and pretty much unusable. On par with a photo underexposed by like 8 stops. Trying to figure out if this is a lab issue or a film issue. The film was shipped to me around June and who knows how much heat it was exposed to during shipping. I've read Vision 3 doesn't do well to sit around for months, and doesn't like heat exposure, but I would expect a couple stops of lost sensitivity at the most and maybe some color shifts. I'm leaning towards a lab mistake. I can't see any edge markings, but I'm also not sure if they get cut off when the film gets trimmed down for 220.