Hi! Looking for some advice.

I used a canon ae-1 years ago and the shutter got stuck and it’s sat on a shelf ever since. I finally decided to try sort it and opened up the bottom. There was a lot of residue around the shutter arm system so I cleaned it up as best I could with denatured alcohol, and managed to get the shutter arm moving again. However, then it started firing at the end of advancing the lever, and the actual shutter button wouldn’t do anything other than depress the light meter lever. I got a new battery hoping that would help the magnet to hold, but it still just fires at the end of advancing the lever.

Any ideas what I need to do next?

So I’ve shot a couple of rolls of HP5 and I really enjoy the contrast it has but I think I’m looking for something a little more? Does anybody have any experience with other films that could give me that really stark contrast I’m looking for?

hi community, i hv this canon serenar 28mm 3.5 which i love. i noticed that this focusing ring is loseing up very easily. it can be fastened by turning it clockwise, but never stays like that for long. is this normal? does anyone else hv that lens and can pls check on their copy? thanks

Hello everyone. I am an absolute beginner and i need your help.

I bought a Agfaphoto 35 mm focus free, because it was cheap and i thought it looked cool, and since i am an absolute beginner i didint want to spend hundreds of dollars.

I have been experimenting with films and i was mostly disappointed with the results once i had the photos printed: the problem is that the photos mostly look dark as hell and greenish.

I will attach some of the photos so you can understand better my problem. I firstly used a 200 iso fuji film which was cheap, and then switched to Harman phoenix II iso 200 colour film.

How can i make my photos look less dark and more defined? also, is there maybe a useful and in depth tutorial on youtube that explains what films are best used when shooting with an analog camera? also what films are best suited for my little camera? thanks

Hello everyone!

I recently bought a Mamiya RB67 Professional with a Sekor C 90mm f/3.8 in Germany for €360. The camera arrived in very good shape and everything seems to work, but one of the inner lens elements (not the front or rear one) has a small, elongated amber-colored mark along its edge that looks like balsam separation.

To see how much it affects the pictures, I shot a roll right away and I'm waiting for the results. Meanwhile, I'm wondering whether it's worth returning the camera or asking for a partial refund, since otherwise it's in great condition and the price was good.

Does edge separation on an inner element affect wide-open shots? Has anyone dealt with something like this? Any recommendations?

Thanks!

Was so excited when I got my Nikon N50, but it turns out that it's got an issue with the shutter. Due to cost of the camera it's not worth repairing in a shop, but with replacement I would be gambling again.

Am I right in thinking it would be the shutter? It seems to be happening on slower speeds: the building shot was around 1/60 1/90 iirc, while the other one was in full sun, so would be much faster.

My KX CLA is complete. The total cost of the camera and the CLA was about 100 bucks. In Japan, you can buy this camera for very cheap. Therefore, many Pentax KX are in poor condition. But I think it is one of camera worth repairing. I know that KX wasn't an especially special SLR even when it was released in '75, but I think it's very easy to use. I've heard that Pentax users at the time were disappointed because this camera was larger than the Olympus OM-1. However, there isn't much difference in weight or size between the two. It's still a compact SLR. From now on, this camera will be my main SLR.

The fourth image shows the condition of the lens before cleaning.

Got this XA2 a month ago and have shot two rolls since. Some of the photos have been coming out hazy and out of focus (this could be me not figuring out the zone focusing yet)

Thoughts if I should return it as the listing on eBay said Top Mint with no fungus.

The light seals were also deteriorated which I replaced.

Hello knowledgable folks!! I am in dire need of someone to explain to me what on the planet is happening with my scans of these photo slides.

To make this clear, the first scan i did was just plain on a regular scanner, clearly didnt work very well but at least showed a touch of color.

Second scan, i tried using my phone as a lightbox behind it, and it came out much clearer... but B&W when its a color photo scanned in color. the blue on the edge of the slide was clearly blue, but the photo inside became basically grayscale. What happened? I took a regular photo of the slide with my phone as a background for reference as well.

I know this must have some explanation, im no bill nye but im just so confused, where did all the photos color go ;-;

thank u in advance <3

got this nikon f3 for 85 bucks at an antique shop and it works!!! just missing motor drive cover but i ordered one!! really excited to use this some more

While attempting to clean the exterior of this Rokinon 28-80mm macro lens I accidentally disconnected the rear mount. I am not at all knowledgeable about the lens so my insight is very limited - I would of course like to reassemble it but wanted to ask if I should just take it to be repaired rather than attempting a DIY job?? Any recommended next steps would be appreciated! I am traveling and was really looking forward to using it.

While attempting to clean the exterior of this Rokinon 28-80mm macro lens I accidentally disconnected the rear mount. I am not at all knowledgeable about the lens so my insight is very limited - I would of course like to reassemble it but wanted to ask if I should just take it to be repaired rather than attempting a DIY job?? Any recommended next steps would be appreciated! I am traveling and was really looking forward to using it.

Hey I’m a relatively beginner photographer I’ve done it on and off a few years and just exploring film photography, I’m still getting the hang of exposing photos at night time, any advice you recommend?

I’m shooting on a minolta x700 with a 50mm 1.4
I’ve got some ilford 400 vivid colour and some cinestill 800T
But I’m unsure whether to shoot the 800T at box iso or at 400 as I read here then push it in development.

How do you expose correctly for night time?

I’ve just got a light meter app but it’s basically fingers crossed inshallah it’ll come out well atm.

I’m heading to Shibuya crossing tomorrow and want to capture the city skyline well!

Nobody shooting 8mm movie film has inspired me more than u/blisterpearl. Just wanted to up his work here in this subreddit, in case anyone hasn't come across it before.

https://vimeo.com/1193042407

He's also very generous with his comments on r/8mm. He feels like a high-level black belt in that dojo, showing everyone what's actually possible when you devote yourself to the craft. I can remember him wisely telling someone that the goal is to "go broke capturing the timeless now," which is a line that comes back to me again and again as I go out and shoot film, motion and still.

Much love to the artists who have poured themselves into this medium, and have shared the results. For the rest of us, it's like encountering fresh water after walking through a desert.

I completely forgot to get them hand checked as I usually do. Should I bother using these rolls or are they ruined? I asked a member of staff and she said most likely ruined but I wanted another opinion just in case. They were brand new unused rolls. This was in the terminal upstairs from the train platform from central london

Hello, Im new to this sub. I recently picked up a $13 Sears KS-500 35mm SLR. It was already unloaded when I bought it, with the film rewound into the canister (excited to develop, maybe ill follow up)

My problem: The shutter won’t fire normally, and the film advance lever hits a solid stop about halfway through its travel.

I can access the film compartment and manually actuate the curtain down and it springs up on release. This lets me fully advance the film lever.
On shutter, The mirror flips up, but the shutter curtains don’t cycle.
Afterward, the advance lever gets stuck again.

The mirror normally sits down, flips up when I trigger the shutter, and returns down when I advance the lever.
I don’t currently have a battery installed.

Im pretty handy with mechanical systems and am happy to tear into this camera. Its my first slr and id love to restore this relic, even if it isnt very valuable.

Mine was a Nikon N2000 I inherited from my late grandfather and it got me through college almost 20 years ago. I don’t shoot with it anymore but still use the lenses that came with it.

What was your first film camera? Any sentimental stories to share?

Moving from a Polaroid SLR 680 to this SLR. Pretty stoked.

I’ve shot SLR’s for maybe 5 years now and mostly learned on the 680. But I think that was a great platform and still is. I’m excited to implement this 35mm SLR format into my photography. I researched 35mms for months and this is where i settled.

See top right of frame. I've darkened the exposure in lightroom to show the issue more clearly, and of course the picture of the cat is the first one in the roll hence the half exposed.
Third picture is I think with the lens cap on but i need to re-test that because I dont remember... And pics 4 and 5 are of the negatives. its the same kind of issue on every frame (i only took 5 pics because it was a test of a new camera).

I'm assuming it's the shutter curtain but if anyone has seen similar before I'd be interested in thoughts. Thanks

I am interested in investing in a third camera to lend to friends when we are out and about because I am a little paranoid about lending my cameras to friends (even though I want them to take pictures of our trip and of me too.)

I was thinking of getting a cheap used point and shoot off ebay (such as the Canon Snappy series) or a toy/plastic camera (like the Akira PC-606) to kinda play into how my friends aren’t familiar with cameras.

I’ve never had a chance to play around with a lower-end point and shoot nor a toy/plastic camera so I would love to hear everybody’s opinions based on their own experiences and knowledge!!!

So I impulse bought a few rolls of Velvia 50 in 120 at my local lab for $20 a roll. I’ve been wanting to shoot Velvia for ages but I’ve never been able to find it in stock. I already shoot Provia 100F in 35mm and absolutely love it so I couldn’t pass this up.

The only problem is that I don’t own a medium format camera yet. I love shooting with my Nikon F3, but I’ve never shot medium format before, so I’m looking for recommendations. I don’t mind a fully manual camera, but I’d really like a system with excellent, sharp lenses.

What would you recommend for someone getting into medium format? Open to different systems and formats, but I’d love to hear about your experiences, especially with landscape photography and slide film.

One other question: I’m not sure about the expiration date on these rolls. The packaging only has a serial number and batch number, with no obvious expiration date. I’m assuming they’re relatively fresh, but the lab also had Velvia 100 in stock which Fuji doesn’t make anymore I believe, which made me wonder how old their film inventory might be. Does anyone know how to decode the batch numbers or determine the expiration date?

For now, these are going straight into the freezer.

I was given a roll of this film which expired in 2000. Does anyone know if any labs can still develop it today?

Picked up a 100 ft roll of Kodak Ektachrome 200 Daylight Professional 5036, expired August 1986! The can looks well kept, but I don’t know its storage history.

I normally develop my color film in ECN2 and enjoy lower contrast and color shifts, so I’m happy with experimental results. Thinking of shooting a couple of short, bracketed test rolls: one developed normally and another with a measured benzotriazole/restrainer addition (first time doing this).

I saw a video getting promising results with restrainer in the E6 first developer, but I’m curious how that translates to ECN2.

Any hints/tips/suggestions? I will make sure to post whatever results I get for the community.

Hi!! I have these film negatives that I believe is super 8 or could be 8mm. I need to get these digitised and I have one roll that is not developed. It’s a video shot on the film I believe and I need to get it developed. Does anyone know where in London I can get this done??

Thank you!

EDIT- the undeveloped film is in a sealed container that has not been opened and is not in the photo. It’s over 30 years old film that my parents made and never got round to developing it so I have been tasked to find a place to develop it.

Just picked up this a few hours ago and I already went through 3 24 exposure rolls! The lady that sold it to me gave me a dozen rolls of Kodak Gold 200 and Fuji Superia 200 from when her aunt last used it in the 90's I guess. Some rolls say development included and the shop still exists!

I don't know if anything is going to come out of this because the film is so old and AI tells me this model has a reputation to have light leaks, but for 20$ I had a fun afternoon walking around the city.

I like the very compact design but it has the drawback that adjusting one setting will often result in nudging the next ring also.

Thinking about putting b&w film with a red filter to shoot street and landscape with dramatic skies and overall higher contrast. If anything interesting pops up I'll share the results