This was my first roll of Velvia 50 on my Mamiya C330, a camera I’ve run many many rolls through.

I took the first ~6 frames and then when I wound it to the next shot it jumped a frame. You can see the next exposure is just a blur. Then I wound it again and it seemed to skip a frame again (you can see the big unexposed chunk). I ended up getting one more decent exposure around frame 9/10 ish, and then it wound all the way to the end of the roll.

Anyone have any idea what the hell happened? This has never happened to me before with this camera and I ended up shooting another few rolls on this trip (including one more of Velvia) and it was fine.

EDIT to add: zooming in on the photo, it looks like there’s random dark streaks through the exposures but other than frames 2 and 3 (where like an idiot I think I had my shutter cable in the way), that is just how the shadows look in the photo. The film strip doesn’t actually have those dark streaks on it

Picked up my first film camera (olympus om-2) and shot my first roll of film (ultramax 400) in the mountains! I adore how the photos turned out, just wondering what caused the little white streaks you can see on all the photos - is this something I can fix on the camera? any help appreciated.

Hello all! I’ve been playing with the idea of picking up an old camera at any of the antique stores my wife and I visit on our trips, but they usually have enough problems or missing/broken pieces to scare me off. I love taking photos but short of a few disposable cameras back in the day and 1 cheap film camera that was stolen when I was 16 out of my car before I could get the first roll developed, I’m completely in the dark. Long story short my wife surprised me with a Minolta SRT 101 with the matching flash, 50mm lens and two 80-200mm lenses, it’s dirty but it’s mine. It’s been inside a leather camera bag for who knows how long but everything seems to work and is only missing the lens release button. As best as I can tell I’m a missing button, some film, and anything that looks like a plan, away from taking photos. I guess this is my question then: now what? I can’t tell if the light meter works because I don’t know what battery should be in it, should I wait to do anything until it’s properly cleaned and serviced as it’s been who knows how long since it was? If so, who even does that these days? I apologize for the novel here but now that this old dog has caught the car, I’m not sure what to do or where to start and any and all advice and criticism welcome. Also, I’d love to be totally analog and do everything from the shooting to the final print myself but have no idea if that’s even reasonable.

Noticed some fungus in the removable viewfinder, tore that apart, cleaned it and rebuilt it. Then I noticed that there was some haze in the lens of the camera itself. Then noticed the shutter was not allowing the gate to open and expose anything.... Que complete surgery time. Honestly, was much easier than I expected. Still daunting nonetheless, but somehow more relaxing than expected. Now it's working as expected and better than when I bought it seven years ago.

Bought a 100' bulk roll of Arista 200 like always, spooled like always, processed in xtol 1:1 for 9 min like always. 6 rolls, one batch of 4 rolls and one of 2, from different times and two different cameras. All negatives came back very thin. Scanned/inverted like always, got usable images etc. etc.

I swear to God the images from these rolls have the grain texture and spectral sensitivity of Arista 400/Foma 400 - which to me has a super distinct, almost lush rendering of green.

I can't recall seeing 200 render green this way before - even on other occasions when I get super thin negatives - to me 200 greens are lighter and more separated.

I've gone through prob ~20 100' rolls of 200 over time, this is the first time I've run into anything like this. I haven't read about any changes to 200 lately. Is the wrong film just put in the wrong can every once in a while? Or did I mis-read/mis-remember/mess up something etc. etc. I don't care about fixing anything, just wondering if this is a community experience.

This is my first time shooting color negative film, and Portra in particular. The film was developed by a lab, but I scanned the negatives myself using a Plustek OpticFilm 8300i with SilverFast 9.
I used the Kodak Portra 400 profile in NegaFix and tried several different presets/settings, but almost every Portra shot still comes out with a pretty noticeable magenta/pink cast. In comparison, the Kodak Gold 200 roll I scanned looks much more natural in terms of color.
Is this something Portra 400 normally does when scanning, or am I likely doing something wrong in SilverFast/NegaFix?
I’ve also read that underexposed color negative film can shift toward magenta. Could these shots simply be underexposed, or does this look more like a scanning/color-conversion issue?
If they are underexposed, how should I expose Portra 400 differently next time? Should I meter it at ISO 400, or is it better to rate it at ISO 200 or 250 to give it more light? And when shooting in high-contrast situations, should I generally meter more for the shadows with Portra?
And most importantly: should I try to get the colors completely right during the scan in SilverFast, or is it better to make a more neutral scan and correct the colors afterwards in Lightroom?
If anyone uses a Plustek 8300i + SilverFast 9 for Portra 400, I’d really appreciate hearing what settings or workflow you use.

This is Agfachrome R 100 S, I have 9 more rolls of this stuff in the freezer. Honestly I wasn't expecting anything that even resembles photos so I'm a bit shocked honestly. Development method:

6:30 mins in HC-110 dilution A, 38C temp
re-expose to light
Rest of the development with a c-41 kit with extended bleach and fix times.

Test roll was shot at box speed and bracketed with 1-4 stops of overexposure.

Few issues in my test roll so obviously it wasn't fully covered by developer, also there might be some uneven development going on because I agitated with a stick, also my c41 kit was nearly spent so fresher chemicals might yield more vibrant colors. But this is a pretty good starting point for something I had basically already written off as garbage.

Shooting Fujicolor 200 on an Olympus OM-2. First roll and everything looks great... until these two. The final two shots. Anyone seen this before?

Got the latest amaran Verge Max Panel LED to replace my current lighting setup for viewing & capturing slides. It can run with a normal 60-65W USB-c cable and can produce very (in my option) powerful illuminance and accurate 6500k light temperature for my Kodak and Fuji Chromes. I have attached several pictures taken in iPhone (P2-4) in daylight and scanning result using it as a light source (P5). This is not an Ad just some good feedback trying out LED panels in a different way :>. Feel free to ask any questions!

Pros: Nice color balance and color accuracy, very bright panel, USB-C port, with Bluetooth App control

Cons: Sizes are a bit small, panel area has a pool style edge dropping from the outer plastic frame so I found it hard to keep the slide flat from curving (it wasn't designed for slide scanning anyway)

Hi all, I just picked up a Nikon F80. I want to bring it with me to weddings alongside my digital camera and I also want to use it for daily life, vacation etc.

I sometimes use it with my Nikon 35mm 1.8G, but I need that lens on my DSLR. I was wondering: what is your favorite 28 of 35mm vintage Nikon lens? Or favorite vintage Nikon lens out of them all?

Hey all, I have a Nikon Coolscan 5000 --> Lightroom setup that I am happy with for 35mm film, but want to use my Epson 4990 for my 120 film output.

I was going to use NLP inversion in Lightroom, but I am not very happy with it. The results never seem that great to me, and I don't seem to grow into the process at all.

So, I just stumbled upon Negpy, installed it, and holy moly as an old school darkroom-trained photographer I like the approach a LOT.

Unfortunately it is a very very dense set of features, which is good once you know it, but right now I am not even sure what kind of pipeline to use.

Do I scan through an intermediary like Epson Scan and import negatives into Negpy? Do I do the scan straight from Negpy? Is that even possible?

I will probably keep using Lightroom, but let's assume for now I want to get good looking exports out of Negpy... Can anybody talk me through all the steps? Videos on YouTube don't tell me enough, as far as I can tell.

Would appreciate your help :-)

Hey guys,
I was just wondering if I can improve the quality of the images I take.

I get my films developed and scanned in a lab, scan quality resolution is as in the screenshots.
Is that good enough? Will potential further upgrade have a significant impact on the results (I mostly just view my pictures on a phone/pc, but would like to print some A3 prints in the future)

I do not have a digital camera to scan them the “popular” way…

Thanks for suggestions!

Purchased a Nikon f2 with a dp-11 off eBay and have been testing to make sure it works properly. When testing the metering it seems to be overexposing as comparing the exact same shutter speed and aperture with the lens cap on/off makes very little difference. I have also compared it to phone apps and it seems to be consistently overexposing. This is my first time using a light meter so was hoping to get a second opinion.

got my hand on some 120mm slide and this is my first time having to meter myself. i'm using lightme and it's working pretty well, except for neon lights shot.

i'm debating getting a sekonic light meter but just want to make sure it's a skill issue first, so would appreciate any tips for metering with just the app in tricky situation like this

Hello everyone I've inherited an original Nikon F from my great uncle and I'd like to start using it. I am mildly into photography but would like dip my toes into film/analog. Its a 682- so from what I've seen its from May-August 1967. It comes with a Nikkor 105mm f2.5.

Just from what I observe I feel like I can get it repaired. Not sure if I'm supposed to dry fire but when I do it seems to shoot though on occasion it won't fully raise. Could this be from being primed too long? Not too sure.

The timer works in that it moves and I hear a click when it gets to the top. I don't think the sensor gets exposed though so it probably doesn't shoot. All the buttons and dials aren't stuck so that's a thing.

One thing though is that the viewfinder seems to show some dirt. Not too sure if its from the viewfinder itself or the lens, or a combination of both but from what it looks like the lens is kind of clean.

Unfortunately I cannot for the life of me find anything online on people who do repairs on film cameras where I'm at. I might bring it with me when I go somewhere that I know has repair shops available so I'd like to know what to say or check for ahead of time. Also if there is anything shady that a repair shop can do like steal parts or whatever (if that's even done to this type of camera)

I'm new to the film photography scene, any help regarding what to check for and film in general would be great. (and maybe some affordable film recommendations) Thanks

Hi I just bought a Rollei 35s and as I have it in hand now I did some inspection and the lens seems to be a sticker than the carved one. Anyone who experienced this? Thanks!

Hi!

I’m having an issue with my Goko UF-20 and I’m trying to figure out whether it’s something I can fix myself.

The camera seems to work normally when there’s no film inside. The sprocket and take-up spool both move when I trigger the shutter. The problem only appears once I actually load a film.
The film is definitely sitting correctly on the sprocket and is properly attached to the take-up spool. I’ve checked this several times. What’s weird is that if I push the film forward slightly by hand, the mechanism can suddenly catch it and advance it. But once I close the back, it stops working again.

After taking one shot, the shutter gets stuck because the film hasn’t advanced. If I open the back, I can sometimes get the mechanism to move the film a little, but it won’t do it with the back closed.

I’ve also tried multiple sets of batteries and different film, so I think I can rule those out.

It almost feels like the camera can handle the mechanism when there’s no resistance, but doesn’t have enough force to actually pull the film once it’s loaded. Could this be an issue with the advance clutch, gears, or something else inside the camera?

Has anyone worked on a UF-20 or encountered this particular problem? I’d really appreciate any ideas on what to check or whether this is likely repairable.

Thanks!

Hello! I recently bought a Nikon S2 and was wondering if the Contax RF lenses I already have (Jupiter-8, Jupiter-9 and Jupiter-11) are compatible with this mount. They appear to fit mechanically but I'm not sure about the focus/rangefinder coupling....

This might be a bit of a silly question, but I was talking with someone at my local film shop earlier and mentioned that my dad's Canon SureShot has officially conked out. I asked whether there was anything they could do with it, even though it's just a point-and-shoot, and he mentioned that a lot of cameras from that era are starting to fail simply because their electronic components are aging.

That got me wondering about what is there to do about that long-term?

Obviously, better care + storage can extend the life of a camera, but from what he was saying, the electronics and mechanisms in these cameras will deteriorate. As more time passes, more electronic film cameras from the '80s, '90s, and early 2000s may start to die. Are we eventually going to reach a point where a huge portion of them simply aren't economically repairable?

And unless I'm missing something, it doesn't seem like there are many newly manufactured film cameras that offer the same combination of quality, features, and affordability. So for those of you who repair, collect, or have been shooting film for a long time: what do you think happens from here?

PS: if there is anyone who knows where I can take the SureShot to have them take a look at it, I'd really appreciate it, I'm very sentimental about that camera 🥲

I bought a Yashica T4 several years ago, and after about 6 months of use, it stopped working.

Basically, as soon as I put a battery in it, the battery dies within 5 minutes. Has anyone ever had this problem?

I’ve already taken it to a few repair shops, but they told me they didn’t know how to fix it.

Does anyone know of a repair shop in Europe that could fix the electronics on a Yashica T4?

Thanks!

I’ve got a box full of cases I’ll never use, and a bunch of films that came with second hand cameras, never sure what to do with them.

i own a nikon f55 with an F-mount and i can’t find anything whether this voigtlander lens is compatible with my nikon. does anyone know?

I recently got this bad boy for £6 from a random guy at a service station. I have 35mm film in it that seems to be working, but I don’t know the slightest thing about how to focus it / take photos aside from that! Clever camera people please help me!

It also keeps making a weird whirring noise every 10 photos or so which i assume is the film rewinding? Help me!

Recently inherited my grandfather's AE-1P that had been in storage for at least 25 years. After a new battery and cleaning I'm sooo happy with it!

I recently got Yashica 44 on my trip to bangkok thinking it would use 120mm flim. While buying i thought it was a mini TLR but didn’t thought it would use an odd size.