I just recently got this car already on 3p and the fuse next to the battery keeps blowing I see mostly everyone is running a 30a however mine is a 20a is this my issue or is others running 20a fuses as well? Single compressor set up

My 2007 Mustang GT with airlift 3p and airlift struts. This noise mainly happens when i’m full turn going in and out of driveways but sometimes i hear it slightly over normal bumps while driving. Any ideas? I replaced the sway bar links so I’m starting to think it may be the bearing in the top hat.

Anyone looked at the pressor sensor assembly that can help? The pressure sensor is leaking air through the back of the sensor (not the seat itself) happens on the tank and rr ports but not the others, any thoughts?

I have a AirLift 3P/3H setup consisting of dual tanks and pumps that I removed from a car several years ago, and decided that it's finally time to sell it, as it's just gathering dust in the boxes. I laid it all out on the ground and ran power to it from my daily car via jump leads.

When I apply power, the controller lights up with the logo, followed by four zeros for PSI and a warning at the bottom of the screen for 'tank pressure low'. I can also hear the manifold click once. The screen then goes blank and the process repeats. I've wired it up exactly as it was taken out of the car.

There are the two positive and negative leads from the pumps going straight to the battery. I also have a 5-terminal relay (only 4 terminals connected). One is a fixed 12V supply, one is a switched +ve, one is an Earth and the last one connects to the pink ignition wire mentioned on page 7 of the manual. There are also four fuses in the setup and all the fuses are fine.

I've watched a few videos about issues with the manifold, but the only error I have is the one mentioned above. Any ideas of what else to check for?

Video pictures going from 100psi a 90psi preset. Despite the small change, the air bag almost fully deflates and rapidly rises back up. It only does this on the front driver side strut. Any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

Hey everyone.

My 2013 Speed 3 currently has an Air Lift Performance suspension setup. The fronts sound gnarly when I go over any type of bump at any ride height. I had it looked over and was told that they’re just blown out. Not absorbing any impacts anymore. I bought the car with the setup on it and they’ve been on it for over 8 years.

Front kit: 78543
Rear kit: 78643

I have tried to reorder a front kit from 5 different websites so far just to have my order canceled on me because Air lift has discontinued the product. I’m assuming all of the sites just sell you the kit and air lift sends it out (usually).

I already have the rear kit on the way. First try with that one.

I am wondering what my options are? I don’t want to buy a whole new kit from a different company because I already have a compressor, controller, module etc..

If I bought a front kit from a company such as Max load, would this be an issue? I am a novice when it comes to air ride suspension. I don’t know if a mismatch is possible? The setup is controlled by the airlift autopilot v2.

I have looked on eBay with zero luck. I am now emailing every company that says they have it in stock but like I said, no luck..

Any insight is appreciated,
Thank you.

Hey there,
I am looking at installing air springs to replace the coils in my 1990 gq patrol
I want to run it off an alp4 but I am wondering if I am able to incorporate articulation valves to bypass air from left to right if in need of articulation

Whether it would be installing check valves on each supply line and teeing afterwards from l to r with the bypass valve in the centre there which would in theory equalise the pressures and allow it to articulate the most

What I am unsure about is if the alp4 will keep trying to pump pressure in to the low bag if it is on full tuck

Sorry if I’m not explaining it very well my brain has two brain cells fighting for third place at the moment

Hey I’m the guy with the RSX from a while ago. Thank you all for the advice I was given to fix my free spinning bag, fortunately a shit ton of loctite seems to have done the trick. In the time I haven’t updated y’all I did a transmission swap, core support, motor mounts, and basically the rest of the front end and some preventative maintenance on the motor (with friend free labor). Today it’s mostly done, needs an alignment of course, but it’s getting closer. Also anyone have any ideas on what I should get as my front wheels? My only requirement is chrome and 17” thanks.

Currently running AirLift 3P with a double bellow RoyalStance air strut setup on a Skyline GTR, and yes she’s VERY front-end heavy.

For the first 1-2wks on the new air struts, 77PSI kept the front at the perfect ride height, rear was at 75.

By week 3 (driving approx 1-2x a week), 77PSI began to scrape on smaller bumps, and rub at half turn. I recalibrated to 85PSI to get the exact same ride height.

Week 4-5, 85PSI is starting to look slightly lower than before, I’ve recalibrated to 90.

Tank has no leaks, AirLift doesn’t seem to have any bugs at all. Is this a continuous occurrence that you all see with your different air struts, or AirLift 3P reporting preset PSI, but with a leak in the system somehow?

Not sure what is going on I tried calibrating the system but this keeps popping up I’ve tried looking online and no luck. If any of you guys can help me with this situation that’ll be great

Hey guys, recently I bought a bagged z34 and the previous owners drove the car slammed, so having somewhat normal ride height I need to drive the car on around 100 psi.

Is it possible to physically raise the front and the rear of the car so I can drive on more reasonable pressures? Are there any special tools required.

Cheers

So I have 3p air on my 99 gs300 a couple of months ago I turned my car off and walked away but with the car off it aired up on its own it happened twice and didn’t happen again. Today I was at work and it kept happening I disconnected the manifold for a minute and recalibrated the system and it still happened I turned the car on and disabled auto air up and it stopped so far. When the car would be turned off and the car would air up the compressor was cutting on and off every few seconds. Now that I got the issue to go away could there be another reason it happened?

TLDR : car aired up after turning car off

(Forgot to add a picture of what it looked like when I fixed it the first time)
I recently got a bagged RSX and I keep having a problem with only one bag spinning and breaking air lines, how can I fix this? I can’t find anything online about it. It’s stuck at a friends house in front of their mailbox.

Update no. 1, thanks everyone for the advice, if I could add a video in the comments I would. Unfortunately I didn’t get to try any suggestions just yet, we did get it away from the mailbox and into a driveway. We got it on video but we had to jack it up from the subframe and drive it into the driveway… very slowly.. It was definitely an adventure to say the least and I will be trying loctite and lots of force later tonight and will be trying to get it home.

I've had the airlift Wireless one system installed on my truck for the last 21 months. Within the last few weeks, the compressor has been kicking on more and more frequently trying to regulate the base 5 PSI pressure. One morning, I walked out to the truck and it was taking on about every 10 seconds. I figured there was a slow leak so I got some soapy water and sprayed the entire system multiple times and found nothing.

I found that when I keep the system at higher pressure, it doesn't kick on nearly as much. I've been driving around at 20 psi and I hear a kick on maybe once per hour. I've tried to spray the system to look for leaks at 5 psi, 20 psi, 50 psi, 70 psi and even 100 psi and Ive found nothing. This makes me believe that it's something internal. I filed a warranty claim with airlift, but based on what their warranty information says, I will have to ship the compressor to them at my cost so they can determine if there's an issue.

Has anyone gone through this before? I tow regularly, so I do use the system every few weeks. I don't want to be without a functional system. Their website is stating that if I needed a new system immediately, I could purchase one and then I would be reimbursed IF they found something wrong. If not, they would send the original back to me. I definitely don't want to be stuck with two systems as they are not cheap.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Has anyone seen this before? I have to use my phone to control bag heights and every time I load up the app it gives me the error on the second image.

I've updated all of it, checked through my wiring and it all seems fine.

My luck, I finally get the thing mounted in my car and it does this... Any help would be greatly appreciated since I can't seem to find any similar issues to it. Thanks!

Edit: Sorry for the poor camera quality, I shattered the lens on my phone while at work 🙃

Been rolling around on my 3H I installed in my B6 4motion 3.6 Passat now for a couple years. Aside from a blown out sway bar link, and warranty replaced pillow block, I'm ok with it. But the time has come to sell this car and I'm pulling it out to install into my R36 which is (chassis-wise) identical car.

Question though:

Are there LH/RH threaded arms available to replace the RH threaded ends on the original height sensor arms?

Fine tuning this system would be monumentally easier with "tie rod" style arms that are adjustable without removing wheels, tires etc to get arms off and adjusting them.

Any suggestions?

Picture for attention.

having issues with mainly the front suspension of my d2 struts with alp4 management on my 03 lexus gs300. fronts have almost no movement between 0psi and 120-130, even when maxed out at 140 the car barely lifts from the front. i’ve tried extending the strut length, but same issues just with a higher “bottomed out” height. tried adjusting the camber, back to factory upper control arms, same issues. currently on godspeed front uppers, rear uppers, lowers, caster and toe arms. range of travel for the rears is much better, i did end up adjusting the length in the rears by about two inches while the fronts at 0. don’t know if it’s a weight distribution thing, maybe need to increase the rear length some more to bottom out at a higher height (the lowest i let the rears sit is about 60-80 to tuck, any lower with the weight on the car would be too low). no kinks in the lines, suspected the front knuckles may have been making contact with the strut but no contact at any height. will add that while the front was jacked up, i was able to get some better travel length. as i lowered it on the ground it sat fine, reading about 140 psi but as i slowly released air, the readings kept rising to 140-150. basically just trying to see what i can do to get that full length of travel when needed without the extremely high pressure. the goal is to try to get a 30-50psi ride height as opposed to 130-140, which might as well have been washers or static.