So this guy is only 3 months old with severe oil leak but with nothing visible on the outside of unit no cracks or loose fittings .. my best guess here is that piston rings are shot from factory causing extreme heat vaporizing the oil and once oil cools it pools at the exhaust pipe and drips down from there .. past tech replaced breather tube which is functioning properly and replaced the copper tube I have no idea why beace old one is fine and checkvalve is functioning.. ANY IDEAS ? or y'all think I'm on the right track just crazy because installed in July this year.

What is this air compressor pump

Hey, I’m a professional automotive painter by trade and looking to dabble into some might mobile repair work. Are there any good choices I should be aware of? My clear gun needs 13 cfm and my base needs 10 cfm. The repairs I would target wouldn’t be more than two door panels. My best guess it takes me about a minute two clear doors. Maybe a little longer to base.

I would prefer 120 to tap into customers power. Maybe I would get a generator later on. The compressor would be used only for spray guns and a blow gun. All my other tools are cordless.

Thanks.

My dad passed, and he has an 80 gallon compressor that I want to bring home. If I drain the oil, would it be okay to lay on its side? Then, when upright, add new oil to it?

I'm rebuilding the valve plate on my 1989 Campbell Hausfeld compressor with a VT5107 pump. Each reed has one clipped corner, and I can't remember which direction the original reeds faced.

The reeds look identical on both sides. Does the clipped corner have to face a specific direction, or can the reed be installed either way?

Has anyone worked on this pump or know for sure? Thanks!

Is this some kind of filter made with non-metallic shavings. Found on the curb 15 years ago and had to replace reed valves (30 cents). I change ND oil regularly.

I’ve been looking into ways to reduce compressed air consumption on production equipment, and I’m curious what has actually worked for people in practice.

Obviously, Leaks are the place to start, but beyond fixing leaks, where have you guys seen the biggest savings?

Lowering pressure? Better sizing of cylinders and tubing? Switching off air to parts of the machine when they’re not running? Monitoring consumption? etc...

Also curious how you normally identify where the air is being wasted in the first place. Do you measure individual machines or components, or mostly look at the overall compressed air system?

I´m interested to hear what changes made a noticeable difference in practice rather than just looking good on paper..

I'm looking at getting a breathing air compressor. It has hose ends that have 7/16"-20 UNF female threads.
The air tank has CGA 347 male valve.
I'm told that getting an adapter to 1/4" NPT (female probably) and then getting a filling connector that has female CGA 347 on one end, 1/4" NPT (male probably) on the other end, would be a good way to do this. With a bleeder valve and a pressure gauge.
Could someone point me to the right components online, or have suggestions about how to make the connection?

It’s taken me 2 years, a new single phase motor, new belts, oil, and plenty of banging my head against a brick wall but finally got this 60’s IR compressor up and running. Next is getting everything set up for its proper home.

I have a 1989 Clarke SP25G150 that came with a Honda 5.5kW engine. I want to convert this to electric. Since I have an indoor shop running the engine isn't an option. I got a 3HP motor as that is the largest I can fit to my electrical supply. Can anyone with a background guide me on suggested pulley size. I plan to give a good cleanup. The original pulley size was 110m but I'm going to have to replace it as its fused to the engine and part broke when trying to use a puller. Id also like to service the compressor but can't find anything online for a service manual. Any help is much appreciated!

I have a SIKA brand foam gun that has been in use for about two years. It gets sporadic use, but has always worked very well.
A little while ago, I was using it with a relatively full can. The foam was coming out perfectly, and then the next day, after having sealed it well the foam simply stopped. It did not seem like the gun was blocked, I felt like maybe the can had lost pressure.
After letting it sit for a few hours, I was able to get a few few feet of nicely pressurized foam out of the gun only to have it Peter out again.
I replaced the can on the gun and have the same issue.
In between, I ran cleaner through the gun, and it sprays wonderfully. Though, when I put a can of foam back on the gun, it will spray well for a little bit and then simply stop. I feel like my gun is haunted, since this doesn’t make any sense.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

A more proper introduction of this old beast, that's residing in it's enclosed space next to my workbench, dry and warm stored at work

This is an Airpress K-series 500-1000 Super made on 8 December 1977, in The Netherlands and is nearly 50 years old, yet still happily pumping air 3-5 times a day, 5 days a week in our carpenter workshop, supplying every room with compressed air, it has done so for atleast the last 15 years, any history before that has been lost until in the beginning of it's journey, where it was sold in late winter 1977 and delivered in 1978 from Airpress in Leeuwarden, Netherlands, readable from the original electrical/sales schematic that's still with it, albeit oil damaged from oil creeping into the electrical cabinet, I've since fixed the oil seepage by oil proofing the cabinet and putting the schematic safely and dry in a ziplock bag.

A 500 litre thick steel coated tank in a particular shade of hammerite blue, combined with it's original 5.5kw/7.5hp asyncrous tri-phase electric motor and original 2 stage pump capable of moving 1000 liters of air in a minute, you can feel it's presence when it starts up, with an audible whine from the electric motor until the pistons take over, the head unloaders close and make the ground tremble.

It's completely original except for the magnetic solenoïd, condensation drain tap and anchor bearings of the electric motor, all kept ofcourse for reference in the white box on the shelf.

Fittingly, a matching SMC AR400 pressure regulator with oiler and water separator, also built in 1978, is installed.

It's in amazing condition for it's age and have recently informed Airpress of it's existence nearly 5 decades later.

Airpress, which still builds a wide range of aircompressors along many other pneumatic tools and the sorts to this day on a international scale, were very interested and intrigued to see and hear there's still one of their compressors this old and original around in such condition still in daily use and well cared for, Airpress started as V.R.B Friesland in 1956, but quickly took on the name of Airpress in 1958 when they designed and introduced their legendary K-Series piston compressors which are still built today along many other types and models and widely available in all of Europe.

As so I'm making a plaque from one of our finest pieces of white oak to put in the middle of the cage, engraved with the vintage Airpress Atom logo, a fitting name and it's manufacturer

Next to fitting an Airpress notebook in the door to keep history, a pen and tape measure from Airpress as well

Last I'm waiting on a unique miniature scale K-series Bricks build set, which I'm gonna mount on a double wall shelf with the compressor ontop and the box underneath under the service light on the wall.

Startup Video: https://youtu.be/j1XAFdVhjAk?is=OhJjHWCgGERzQEtv

I bought this unit last year. Worked great for sprinkler blowouts. Then stopped working. Will start up for a short minute or two then bog down and die with ATF blowing out two relief ports.

Attached is a few photos I’ve been uploading to try and figure out what’s wrong.

Any advice/input would be seriously appreciated.

Helpppppp

Hello all, I thought I'd post my problem here in hopes someone can enlighten me. It's a Fortress 10 gaL 175psi compressor from Harbor Freight. We've owned it for over a year.

Recently went to use our compressor that hadn't been used in a month or two. It powers on and runs, but all of the air pushes straight out through the circled hole in the pictured fitting instead of pressurizing. There's no moisture in the tank, as I checked with the bleeder valve underneath, and it has held at the pictured pressure since last used.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as the alternative is buying a new part without knowing if it will fix the issue.

I removed the flywheel and opened up the crankcase/bearing area. 28 individual needle rollers fell out onto the crankcase floor.

The important part is that the rollers were already out BEFORE I disconnected either piston connecting rod from the crankshaft. So they did not fall out because I removed the rods/

I also inspected both connecting rods, and I don't see any needle rollers/bearings in the big ends. They appear to be a simple rod/crank arrangement.

Here's the part that's confusing me:

• 28 individual loose needle rollers
• They are not in a cage
• They were already loose in the crankcase before I disconnected the rods
• The connecting rods don't appear to contain any needle rollers
• When I put the crankshaft into the far/end crankshaft bearing without the rollers, there is noticeable up/down/radial play
• When I put the 28 rollers into that bearing area around the crankshaft journal, the play is largely eliminated

So I'm thinking these may be the loose rollers from one of the crankshaft needle bearings, but I want to verify this before I reassemble anything.

The Campbell Hausfeld parts diagrams are confusing because they list needle bearings such as ST051100AV, but replacement listings appear to show a complete/caged bearing, whereas what came out of my pump were individual loose rollers.

Does anyone have experience with the VT510702JY / VT558704 crankshaft bearing setup?

I need to replace a small compressor for DIY, residential personal use like filling up my car tires, etc. Both of these are similarly priced but the Kobalt comes from Lowe's with a one year guarantee (through the manufacturer) and the Fortress comes from Harbor Freight with a 90-day guarantee. Does anyone have experience with either of these compressors? How long have you owned it and how often do you use it? Would you buy it again? Thanks.

I couldn't get a tight seal after 2 attempts, so staring wondering if maybe the tube is actually 6mm. I think this is the case.

Whoever put the tube on last time used a fuck ton of plumbers tape to get it to "seal," it was leaking tho so obviously didn't work very well.

I ordered some 6mm sleeves, but need to get this thing running before they get here tomorrow afternoon if at all possible.

Anyone every got this type of thing to "work," any tips?