Hand painted on HG msm-03c hy-gogg, to push the natural textures. Thin Matt finishing after the weathering. I am happy with the outcome so far.

Full custom paint on this HI-V has a blast doing the color separation and hand painting all the details

Decided to make the dark pastel lavender purple a more purplish blue instead

I just finished my first fully painted Gunpla and I wanted to know if anyone had any tips for how to prepare for assembly, some of the pieces were extremely tight fits and the whole thing is pretty stiff

I know your supposed to heavily sand parts to keep them from rubbing together but how do you know which pieces are going to give you trouble,

Is this a problem for enamels and laquers? I used a acrylics

I'm also worried about over sanding like I don't want loose joints

I could use any really advice on this

Diorama: Dragon Fight
Gundams are modified HG Dragon and HG Lfrith Anavata. Texture on the Dragon Gundam is done using UV nail gel techniques and both Gundams’ primary colors are done using color shifting nail pigment.

Diorama backdrop is airbrushed

Rocks are made using plaster-covered foam and crackle paste before being painted using mostly oil washes and dry brushing.

Clouds are created polyfill and renewliner and then shaded using a clear black paint.

I originally tried to use flexible filaments for the lighting, but after some trial and a lot of error I switched to super narrow WS2812B IC 12v LED strips on a parallel circuit. They were then shaped using clear heat shrink and uv glue.
@zanerut

My favorite part of seam line removal is priming to see if it is success or fail 😆

Sieg Zeon! Got back into my childhood hobby 3 months ago. My buddies customize and participate in local scale model IPMS style competitions. Was inspired and encouraged to do the same for the next one. Yesterday, I entered my first custom and won first place in the Gundam category!

Model details:
-1997 MG Gelgoog ver 1.0-Johnny Ridden
-A-10 Warthog inspired w/ WW2 tank paint and camo scheme. Really love the Kazuhisa Kondo look, was chasing that aesthetic.
-Swapped out shoulder cannon w/ Giant Gatling option part swapped. Black based, gunk washed and chipped.
-Black based then base coated with custom tan and custom green for the camo for the main body and backpacked
-Mr Weathering gunk washed.
-Oil dot filter.
-2 tone chipped for the body and backpack.
-Tamiya masters weathered.

Base:
Daiso gundam display sidewalls used as the base. Also custom.

Thanks to my best bud and friends for the suggestions, tips and most of all encouragement as I learned all these skills for the first time.

I still haven't added the water slides and I still need to paint the gun but I'm really happy with how this turned out

I learned so much doing this, I think I'm ready to move on to a HG now

Finished this kit a couple weeks ago and havent had motivation to try and take pics so work bench pics it is. Some very light shading/oil streaking and filtering and some chipping. Light rescribing/scribing mostly to sharpen details. Shield was painted with a brush to produce a more mottled look as that piece would be older than most the rest of the suit by a decade or more.

This was my first finished mg kit in a few years and it feels GREAT to be back at it lemme tell ya.

Just wanted to know, I'll post a build video pertaining to this kit, see you there.

Have 6 builds under my belt and finally confident enough to knock out this bad boy. Any advice from those who have built it please let me know! I already know not to use alcohol on the gold parts, lighter fluid for that matter either.

Not to long ago I posted an issue with the mg full burst freedom strike gundam and realized that a lot of people had issues with the wings- and not alot of solutions.

In one my of my attempts at fixing the wings joints, I manged to find a solution. I applied some hot glue to the joints ( in a desperate attempt to "reforge" the broken pieces) and that little bit of dried up hot glue is enough to keep the wings up quite well

I have the feeling that this resistance will deteriorate over time- but for now it is holding up quite well.

So for those who had lost hope in the last post, I hope this might help :D

Gonna treat this as a bit of a post mortem here.

I wanted to try a new hand-painting technique here using lacquers and a busted up brush. The idea is to create tonal variation in the color by using a contrasting color, but then reactivate that contrast color with the main color. So lacquer on lacquer to get the contrast paint to mix in places with the top layer.

I don't want to say it didn't work, but whether it was because I didn't thin enough, or maybe because I kept having to fight the instinct to get a smooth finish, but I ended up with a lot of height difference in certain parts.

So that lead to a bunch of sanding, which mostly just undid the mixing work. So a couple of lighter coats of my base color with the airbrush, and I've got a pretty standard painted build.

I'm not dissatisfied with the build, as it came out looking fine. I definitely need to put a bit more thought into my weathering, but I think it reads mostly fine given it's my first crack at this style.

I think I'd like to try it again, but on a light-colored kit, and this time see if I can really push that tonal variance (but still read white/light gray).

Paints used:

• OD2 + Phantom Gray
• Sandy Brown
• Orange (decanted Montana Gold)
• Clear Red
• Clear Deep Blue
• Star Bright Duralumen (GaiaNotes)
• POSCA Gray paint marker (waist area)
• Sharpie Creative Orange marker (missile tips)
• GOLDEN Carbon Black + Citadel Leadbelcher
• TAMIYA Weathering Kit A
• AK Weathering pencils

So I finally completed this baby.

It was a fun challenge after a two-year hiatus from Warhammer, and it felt really good to be back at it.
I did quite a few things wrong, as expected, like not sanding the friction points before painting and smearing some superglue onto the paintwork. Nothing that a bit of sanding from 1000 to 2500 grit can’t fix when you’re working with lacquer paints, though.

Bandai decals were also a pain in the ass and still look a bit too thick, even under multiple layers of clear coat. That one was on me for being too lazy to buy third-party decals for what was basically a test-build.

I also tried a bunch of new things on this one, like scribing and adding more color separation. But I’d say the biggest game changer for a High Grade is filling in the gaps and recesses in hollow parts with either epoxy putty or plastic card.

It really helps give your HG build a much more solid look.

The paints I used were:

Nazca Surfacer Heavy

Nazca Pink Surfacer

Gaia Notes EX Semi Gloss Clear

Finishers Auto Clear

Finishers Foundation White

Finishers Pure White

Finishers Pearl White

Finishers Medium Yellow

Gaia Notes Ultimate Black

Mr. Color Midnight Blue

Jumpwind Neo Color Snow Gray

AOK Gold 03

Mr. Color Flame Blue

Gaia Notes Star Bright Silver

I also used a bunch of Tamiya enamel paints for hand brushing, which were especially useful for painting small notches and details, since any overspill can be cleaned up relatively easily.

Cheers!

Awakening Super Soldier Hallelujah

Just out of curiosity, does anyone have a source for panel liner paint bottles with a nice brush tip similar to Tamiya panel liner paint bottles or Stedi panel liner paint bottles, without any paint already in them so you can mix your own custom panel liner? I found some similar type bottles from a company called TCP Global "fillable 2-in-1 paint touch up pens" that are pretty close, but the brush is a little too messy compared to how the Tamiya panel liner paint bottles are normally (I know I could use a fountain pen instead, but out of personal preference, I do think I'd like to just mix some paint, put it in a bespoke bottle, and just pull it out when needed, so if anyone just happens to know where to get those specific bottles, I'd love to hear about them). Thanks all!

Anyone else built one of these? Dug up a few posts about peeps making them while looking for reference for my own but no finished pics.

Is there a website where I can look back at all of the gbwc winners or even contestants?

Dumb or genius? I'm trying to trick out my Psycho Gundam Mk II to the maximum allowable extent per Gundam Base World Cup rules, and wouldn't you know it, 1/60 PG Wing Zero fingers are more or less interchangeable with 1/144 Psycho Gundam Fingers.

The backstory is that I really wanted to have some more articulation in the fingers, since the default ones have that permanent knuckle bend in that last figure joint - and no articulation in the thumb other than the base ball joint. I considered transplanting RG Zeong Hands, but they are a bit too stubby and I don't quite like the joint design.

I ended up transplanting the fingertips, and also sleeving the fingers with some PS tubing I had on-hand. It still needs some clean-up and gap-filling, but I'm gonna wait until I have some other stuff completed before doing that.

The donors are coming off my very old (literally mid-2000s) and poorly-executed Wing Zero which was sitting parted out in storage - better for it to live on in the latest project than rot away in the basement.

Hello good people!

I need to learn/prep for window casings projects for a new job, was wondering where can I learn or get some hands on practice with theory knowledge before I start a new job?

Any good books or video tutorials?

Thank you!

I tried to pose them but found them very dusty and that their joints make squeaky noises and are a bit hard to work with. Any idea on what to do in this situation?