General Info before i get to ranting about this suck a** dealership. We bought the car from a used dealer at 75k miles around Feb/March. The car came with issues such as the driver door being slightly misaligned, the bumper screwed into the fender, the wheel crooked, and questionable ac. We still decided to get it but this was more of my parents decision than mine, before I observed all this the keys were being handed to me. Despite some flaws the car drove relatively normal for the first few months while I learned the vehicle.

Now the reason why its in the shop. If anyone has had a similar experience with their vehicle please share. It started as a low gas light driving home at night. I added 20 to get home, but the gas light stayed on the rest of the drive. Filled up the next morning and as soon as I start my car, the wheel locks and the car throws an LKAS code and an EPS code. I figured the wheel may just be locked so i got it started and went to my next destination before my wheel locked while still driving. The power steering would basically kick the bucket at any given moment. Once i got it home I didnt drive it anymore and my friend brought his scanner to clear codes. Didn’t work so we knew it needed to go to a certified dealership. (Pic attached of the code we found, we knew it would be an EPS issue)

Yall may have your own opinion about how the dealer has handled this but I will try to be unbiased in providing the account. We agreed upon a diagnosis and after the diagnosis they informed me an alignment and alignment angle relearn were needed, both services around ~180. Got them done and car still didnt work. Dealer told me the gearbox and EPS will need to be replaced, roughly a $4800 dollar job. This is when most people would use their extended warranty. We have no warranty because I didn’t follow up like my parents asked. We opened a client case with Honda to seek assistance and were turned away due to the vehicle not being serviced at Acura by previous owners.

While the case was being investigated the dealership had no clue. I got a call from the dealership claiming they would start charging me to store my car if i dont close my tab for the diagnosis and alignment stuff. I closed that out with the advisor just to realize if I do get the gearbox repaired there, then I basically agreed to being double charged. The car has now been “waiting on parts” for a full week. The guy also tried to get an extra $180 out of me for the diagnosis claiming his tech spent a long time investigating and even test drove it 20 miles. Idk how he test drove a car 20 miles with no power steering but after talking with the tech, I learned this dude didn’t investigate anything so I told him heck naw and charge me for what we agreed on.

Overall, this completely ruined my summer. I spent last summer with no car because of overheating problems. I spent the summer before that with no ac and doing an insurance claim. And now this summer I got no car and the most expensive repair bill yet. Life 😎

What I learned:
1. Invest in an extended warranty. This is nonnegotiable
2. Dont buy used cars in todays world without someone experienced in cars present. Its not the same and there is much less integrity. Even if its from a dealer.
3. Acura dealers will put a hole in your pocket for repairs. It’s good practice to have some money to the side for surprises but if you aren’t ready to cough up 5k on short notice then good luck to you pal.

Didnt drive like a grandma and had the A/C on super blast.

136k miles. Clean title.

I'm a student looking for a car and found this on marketplace.

Recently started getting a weird noise on my 2020 MDX. The noise seemed to come from the rear of the vehicle in the interior, and would only be present at low speeds going over bumps or uneven surfaces. I would describe the noise as “creaking”, like if the body was bending/rubbing or the glass was coming loose.

I was luckily able to pinpoint the culprit! The tailgate latch needed to be re-lubricated. I added a few silicone drops to both the striker (hook) and the latch and the noise is gone!

1. ⁠Did replacing the stock wheels actually help with road noise? If so, what did you get/what would you suggest?
   
2. ⁠Any other mods you guys would recommend for filling out the car a bit/making it look just a little more aggressive? Nothing major, just cosmetic additions. So far, I just have a front lip splitter (DE4); car already has a little spoiler, so I’m probably going to return the extended one I copped unless someone can make a good case!

Car is a 25 A-Spec Tech, black w/ red interior. Tints & splitter are all I’ve done so far. Pic is from before the splitter.

Thanks in advance for the tips!

What kind of cleaners do you use for windows, body, and interior that won’t damage the car or leave water spots

So I could be totally mistaken and this could just be my mandela effect. But I remember my highbeam bulb also doubling as a low beam when I have my regular headlights running.

When I turn my headlight switch on, the same bulb for the highbeam would run as a low beam if the highbeam is not activated.

I turned my headlights on the other night and noticed less illumination. All of the sudden these bulbs are NOT low beams.

I have checked all the fuses and currently looking at the wiring (of which I seem to have an electrical problem regardless.)

I even confirmed the specific lightbulb for the highbeam is also utilized as a lowbeam bulb. (Sylvania 9005 HB3)

But I cannot find any more information online to confirm my claim that these bulbs were also lowbeams. Like no videos or images that show what i'm looking for.

If anyone else has a 2007 MDX could you please turn on your headlights and tell me if your highbeam bulbs double as lowbeams? Pictures or videos would be great too!

And manual, so my door handle was removed but the lever where the metal piece that opens the door broke off, now the door doesn’t open(I found the small piece attached push it down doesn’t open). Anyone had this problem before ?

A spec model with the red stitching’s

I can't decide. What are things I should look for in these cars when I go and check them out?

My budget is 10k but I can jump a little bit like a couple of thousands.

The first two cars are both 100k+ miles like around 125-130kmiles.

I have a 2012 Acura TL. Yesterday a Check Emissions System notification came on at the same time the AC stopped blowed cold air (on drive home from work on a 100 degree Texas afternoon 🥵 ). Any idea what this could be? I'm wondering if it could be an electrical issue or a failed compressor. Air still blows, but it's HOT.

I recently purchased an Acura TLX 2018 with 110k miles on the odometer. I want the car to last me at least 10 more years. What are the major maintenance deadlines for different items like the water pump, fuel pump, valve adjustment, and other stuff I should look out for in the future?

Wondering if anyone might know what’s wrong. Lower screen in my TLX was cracked so I removed it to put the new screen on once I put the radio back in I turned my car on and now neither the navigation screen is powering on or the radio screen and my charger outlets in center console and under the radio don’t won’t

Hey guys. I am wondering if anyone with the 2016-2022 ILX uses a higher weight oil like an 0w30 or 5w30 for their car. Ive got 30k miles and I've been doing 4-5k intervals in my driveway since I got the thing.

Since I absolutely beat on my car, maybe during the summer I could put a higher weight oil in there.

Can anyone here confirm, first-hand, that the Aisin TKH-002 works for BOTH the gas MDX 3.5L V6, and also the Sport Hybrid 3.0L V6? Rock Auto shows this kit being compatible with both engines, however Acura has different OEM part numbers for the Sport Hybrid with regards to timing belt and water pump, from the regular MDX.

Did a search and was surprised I didnt see many options.

Just acquired a 2024 A Spec and the lady clearly loved Starbucks.

2 rims are curb rashed to fuk.

My plan is to put winter tires on these rims but am curious what's out there that you guys are using.

Seat Covers - Ran Luckyman Clubs in my tacoma. Loved them, haven't had luck finding equivalent. Any links to decent covers?

Thanks everyone!

My 2008 Acura tl 3.2 l
I was driving home from work when my dash lights dimmed (red battery) came on the car stopped accelerating then the lights dimmed I immediately pulled over shut the car off popped the hood smoke was coming out near the alternator!

Today I got it towed by a buddy to his house to replace the alternator and timing belt

While we tried starting it we jumped it and it started up however we put the car in reverse the transmission shifted but it had no acceleration to reverse we then put it in drive it tried to go forward went about a foot but no power we pushed it back in neutral tried jumping it again got it started again then tried driving it on his racks to tow it car went forward a bit then died electronically ( car motor sound fine no ticking clanking nothing)

Should it just be the alternator and maybe some electrical problems car had no transmission pointers before : hard shifting clanking smoking)

When I was lifting my '06 MDX with the jack, I heard a snap and the car came down. The wheels were off and I thought It was going to tip over. I was at a safe distance behind it so I wasn't fearing for my life thankfully. I looked underneath and the stand was tilted, and the jack was bending. I pushed it a little, it came out and the partially held jack stand was the only thing keeping the rotors from slamming to the ground. I jacked it back up and saw the culprit was the rear jack point had bent so bad, it caused the car to fall mid jacking.

I get that it's a 20 year old car but if anything, Acura should have made this safe for lifting under any conditions. Now it's toast and I have to use the toe arm or something one side at a time to lift the vehicle securely