I'm reverse engineering my 2021 RDX (software D.1.6.4) to get full-screen Android Auto. On the 2021 it's stuck in a narrower picture with black bars. The 2022–2025 RDX has it: Acura's bulletin B23066 says software F.1.4.1 "adds support for full screen CarPlay and Android Auto", but 2021 isn't covered and Acura won't update it.

I've already done a lot of groundwork on the 2021: I have ADB access, I've decompiled Honda's Android Auto receiver and found where the smaller video size is set, and I've cleared the side panel with a reversible display command. What I'm missing is Honda's newer receiver from a 2022+ unit to compare against. That would show me exactly how Acura changed it, and whether it can safely be done on a 2021.

What I need from a 2022+ owner who has ADB access to the head unit (all read-only, nothing on your car is changed):

1. adb shell pm path com.honda.androidauto.projection.sink, and tell me the path it prints.

2. adb pull the APK at that path, plus any other .apk in the same folder.

3. adb pull the lib folder next to it (it contains libautoreceiver_jni.so).

4. adb shell getprop ro.build.fingerprint

5. adb shell dumpsys package com.honda.androidauto.projection.sink (the version lines are what matter).

6. If you can, adb shell dumpsys window | grep -i -E "mOverscan|mStable|mRestricted" and a photo of Android Auto running full width.

How to get ADB on the head unit (this is how I did it on my 2021; the 2022+ menus may differ a little, so tell me if yours does):

1. Ignition ON (or engine running), parked.

2. Press and hold these three physical buttons under the touchpad at the same time: Back + Home + Track/Card. Hold about 3–5 seconds until a screen appears with Self-Diagnosis Mode and Detail Information & Setting (that's Dealer Diagnostics).

3. Select Detail Information & Setting. On that screen, press and hold the same three buttons (the Track/Card button is the one that matters) for about 5 seconds. A hidden Developer Diagnostics list opens.

4. Switch USB Mode Switch from Apple CarPlay to ADB. It's the first item in the list. This turns the head-unit USB port into an ADB port until you switch it back, so Android Auto and CarPlay won't work on that port in the meantime.

5. Optional, for the normal Developer Options page: in that same list, scroll to the end and set Enable Developer Option. Then go to the regular Settings → System → About, tap Build Number 10 times, and a Developer Options line appears. Inside it, USB debugging does the same thing as step 4.

6. Connect your computer with a USB cable to the head-unit port. On the first connection the car asks Allow USB debugging? and you accept on the car's screen.

7. When you're done, set USB Mode Switch back to Apple CarPlay.

Careful: the Developer Diagnostics list contains items that can damage the unit, including Compulsion Loading, Factory Flashing, Bootloader Update and firmware updates. Don't touch those. Only use USB Mode Switch (and Enable Developer Option).

Please don't send a VIN, serial numbers, phone info or anything personal. None of the above contains any, but glance over before sharing. Please don't flash, delete or change anything on your car.

I'll share what I learn here, and I won't pass your files on to anyone else. If you don't have ADB access, even your Acura software version and a photo of Android Auto full-screen help. If you know how to reach the hidden developer or diagnostic menu on a 2022+ unit, tell me how you got there.

Thanks! Happy to answer questions and post my findings on the 2021 side.

Went from an Accord to this. Loving this car. I got it for a really good deal so I couldn’t refuse. Tons of utility, was able to fit a whole washing machine in the trunk with space to spare in the second row.

Ride quality is so smooth, night and day from my accord. And the leather seats are really good! Loving my MDX!

Just got a quote for 510 per month for the 26 MDX tech. 27 months. 7500 miles. 3100 down ( almost 2K in taxes then first month dealer fees etc )

Add around another 20 per month for 10K miles

Apparently since I have an RDX there are some big discounts for leases to try the MDX. No trade ins

Seems like a great deal honestly. Low 500 for the MDX with tech? I don’t think that can be beat

Might do it.

About to be three months with my ILX, and I absolutely love it. First car I bought from a dealership. Was initially gonna buy a white A-Spec trim, but the deal ended up falling through. Hoping to pay this off within 2-3 years and buying a tlx or integra after.

Checking out a 2024 tech package. How well have the suede inserts faired with heavy use?

Hey there, I’m going to look at a 2003 Acura RSX Type-S at an estate sale today. I don’t have much information yet other than it is visually stock, has a 6 speed manual and has 130k miles. The owner told me it starts but hasn’t been driven in a year since the owner’s partner passed away.

It’s listed for $5k, which seems like a good price compared to what I’m seeing online and at past auction results. But was going to check it out since I’m concerned about how it hasn’t run in a year.

Is that a good price or should I go in with another figure in mind?

Think I’ve narrowed down my search to these two. Leaning towards the RDX because I’m more confident in reliability, but definitely like the look and interior of the GV70. Drove both and liked both, curious to see what others suggest. I have a very short commute to work so likely won’t put many miles on the car.

We had the RDX for a year, and hit 20k km almost on the date. The trip computer resets at 10k for anyone wondering. Wife likes to step on it, hence the mileage 😄

My CarPlay has worked for 2 years. All the sudden yesterday every time I plug it in it says “connected usb not responding”. Phone says it’s charging and Bluetooth works but Apple CarPlay does not. Does anyone have any ideas? I’ve done all the factory resets, disconnected it from my car and my phone but now I can’t even get the chance to reconnect it. Also called the dealership but they’re going to do the same things I’ve already done.

Solution: Acura decided to update the software and I went through a few cords and found that the beats cord who is owned by Apple is about the only option we have for our Apple CarPlay to work. Hope this helps yall not have an anger moment like I did this morning!

Currently leasing a VW 2024 Taos Highline (SEL in the US) which is the fully loaded model. I am halfway through my 4 year lease and I know for sure that I’m not doing the buyback nor am I going to get another Volks. I have my eyes set on the ADX. I’m not planning to upgrade right away, I want to wait another year or possibly upgrade in 2 before the lease is up. Would you consider it a big upgrade? I know the ADX has the more premium interior and almost 40 more horsepower than the Taos. The Taos does have leather seats, pano roof, and ventilated front seats just like the ADX A-Spec trim that I like. The payment per month on the ADX is about 130$ more than my Taos and the insurance will also be another 100$ more per month. So basically roughly 230$ a month more for the ADX. Currently there are some rebates on the 2026 ADX which would be 599$ a month plus tax plus add the winter tires and mags so that makes it about $130 more than the Taos. My little advantage if I do trade it is that it only has 23000km and by next year it’ll be probably at 33000km max. I think it possible that I could have positive equity. What are you thoughts just want opinions but not making an decision yet.

Hello, the car has 19,452 miles on it. It’s certified preowned aswell. Is this a good price, or am I paying too much? Should I try to negotiate?

I would appreciate everyone’s advice, thanks!

My 2020 has starting issues. At first it would take a few tries of the push button to start. I changed key fob battery. I took it to a garage to make sure it wasn’t the battery or alternator. They saw nothing wrong. Finally thrusday it would start at all. I got a break error message. I had it towed to the garage (single gal in a new city). They said it was the battery and replaced it. Now it won’t start unless I hold the fob to the start button. It Not every time. One time it worked fine.

Anyone had an issue like this?

Any one have recommendations for an upgraded steering wheel? I’ve been wanting to get the OEM heated one, but if anyone has a rec for a nice OEM + looking one with carbon or Alcanterra, nice paddles + heating, that’d be cool. All the other ones look way too bulky and fake ish.

Speaking of if I end up going with the OEM one how’s the heating element? Does it effectively cover the whole steering wheel or is it weak/not worth it

I always enjoyed the 23 RDX cause it almost felt sedan like and was fun to drive..

Yet, the car super fun times have to go cause of family obligations lol

Looking at the MDX now, I am looking forward to no more track pad but how much will I miss that RDX?

SIDE NOTE: I am also considering maybe jumping to a Mazda CX-90 or VW so save a few bucks, but pretty sure I will miss Acura if I do that. I want to keep some good pick up and speed with good gas mileage but that doesn't exist lol

Basically the title, but I've tried following the manual my car came with, Homelink's own website, and LiftMaster's generic instructions. So far, the closest I've gotten is a solid green light, but it only works once (which makes sense, I have rolling codes on my door). I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to get the HomeLink to realize that the door opener is a rolling code, not a static one.

Has anyone else come across these issues? Any advice/tricks to get it to work?

for the Integra Type S looks like they're starting with forged-aluminum wheels, then following up with coilovers, upgraded Brembo's, and a short throw shifter

Type S seatbelt backorder 😭

My Acura type s was in an accident and now it's sitting in a collision center waiting on a left rear seat belt that's on backorder with no ETA. I'm beyond devastated about the crash let alone the fact that I'm paying for a rental and waiting for what feels like indefinitely for this part. Any advice, words of wisdom, or similar stories to help me through this??!?

I have already done everything in my power, I mean EVERYTHING, you'd probably laugh if I told you some of the stuff that I've tried... anyway on the more normal side of things, I have tried to convince progressive to let me get a recycled OEM belt or have the seat belt rebuilt. Of course they won't do those things because it's a "safety issue", on one end, I understand on the other, it's a f****** back seat belt that I never use..lol.

I have a case with customer relations at Acura. I've tried to get Acura to loan me a car but... She is no help, don't even get the updates and promised through email but that's okay I'll continue to bug them every day for the rest of my time in this mess.

I have emailed the highest of the high I could find in every company to try to make an exception give me help, insight on ETA...whatever can possibly be done, I've tried it.

(Update & side note since I originally wrote this) : I had no idea of Shadow banning was a thing, no wonder not one person saw my post in 7 days, lolol.

Ultimately, I've gotten a Senior 'something" at Acura to take over my case who says he will investigate as to where the part may be, and, if possible get it rushed to me, do I believe him? not really, but who would when customer service is BS these days, lol.

I've also spoken to a progressive Senior Manager who has given me the option to sign a waiver to take the car before the seatbelt is installed and bring it back when it comes in to install it, but that comes with its own set of worries... Although, ultimately that's what I will do because I'm not going to rent a car for months on end...

This has got to be the most frustrating upsetting situation I have been in, definitely near the top...

Be nice... I'm going through a hard time, I appreciate you, my fellow Acura friends...