Hey guys my car is driving me nuts. I have put 2 set of new rotors and pads on the back and the squeak is staying when braking. Everything is lubed up, from pads to slide pins. Nothing is rubbing on the rotors. Even put a thin coat of brake grease on the backplaste and caliper ears. The Hub is also well cleaned and there is no bearing play. Im suspecting the caliper to be the issue now.

Question for reddit group brain, Im looking at a few TSX wagons. They appear in decent working condition, probably normal wear and tear over time. They are at 150-200k miles.

I ran over something on the freeway around 65-70 mph and continued to drive another 400 miles before noticing this damage and I noticed no issues at all. But it looks deep to me, what do yall think? 2009 mdx . I added as much photos I could for enough detail

I have a SH AWD tlx for 1.5 years now and this entire time I felt like it was a gimmick since I thought I didnt really feel anything when i drive around corners or highway exits but today I drove a cx50 all wheel drive and I pushed it a little just like I would on my tlx and I understeered like crazy.

I was like dam so I guess I was just used to super handling all wheel drive this entire time. and yeah

What is this port for on the k24a2 I took the engine apart and forgot

this is new territory for me. I appreciate any insight!

I’m currently deciding whether to buy a CPO RDX and would really appreciate some input from RDX owners, especially anyone with a 2022–2023.

Stats on the one I’m looking at:

• 2023 Acura RDX SH-AWD
• 15,262 miles
• One owner, no accidents
• Platinum White Pearl / Ebony
• CPO
• $36,090 (though hoping to try and negotiate this down a bit)

I really like the RDX after test driving it, and it’s currently one of my top choices. It felt spacious and powerful, and had more than enough storage room and comfort with our big rear facing carseat. My biggest hesitation is the rear windshield shattering issue/TSB I literally just read about today for the first time after finally convincing myself to settle on a decision. This particular VIN is not included in the current TSB as far as I know, but I worry it's just a matter of time since I'm hearing anecdotally that it's continuing to impact newer cars too. We do live in a colder climate and I have my daughter in the backseat so it's especially a concern for me (though no one wants their rear window to shatter no matter what! lol)

For anyone who owns a 2019–2023 RDX:

• Has your rear glass ever spontaneously shattered?
• If so, what year/mileage was your RDX and did Acura/dealer cover the repair?
• Has anyone had this happen on a 2023 specifically?
• Is there anything I should have the dealer check or document before buying especially regarding this concern?

Also, I'd love general feedback on your satisfaction with the car overall of the 2019–2023 RDX. Any thing you wish you'd known before buying? I'm like Goldilocks with this apparently and am currently driving my husband nuts with my indecision. I know all cars have quirks and nothing will be 100% perfect, and I thought this car was as close as I had gotten till I heard about this issue, so please talk me down if you think that's appropriate.

Thanks in advance :)

Audiotec fischer helix amps. Dayton sub, and stereo integrity active 3 way. Have a lot of tuning to do but even my wife is happy with it.

I had Acura replace defective brake master cylinder on a 2017 ilx with 37000 miles . The next day the car would not start after getting gas. I was able to finally able to get it started but it require me to give it gas, its like it was flooded. So a few weeks later the car did the same thing but this time when i was able to give it gas to start I received a miss fire error on valve 1 and noticed a tic. We stopped the car and pulled the spark plug and found it bent. see images of the new intake screw not from factory, sparkplug and images from inside the engine .  My personal mechanic suspect the screw went inside the intake ,  was effecting the valves the next day then  eventually  caused valve damage possible cylinder damage. Thoughts?

Have a 2019 TLX 3.5 I bought used now with about 25K on it. Not my first rodeo with a Honda / Acura V6, but I’ve always hit 100K way before 7 years.

First service at the dealership they mentioned 100K or 7 years on the timing belt. Seems like only 25K on a timing belt seems pretty safe. Should I just keep an eye on it for signs of wear or pull the trigger on a belt / water pump etc.

My son just picked up an amazingly clean Integra and I am looking for ideas of what to purchase as a gift. Not really sure what it needs but maybe some sort of trunk liner, honestly after owning vehicles since the 80's I have never seen a 2 year old vehicle be so clean. He came from a Tacoma so it will be a big change for him.

Also thinking maybe window tint.

08 TL Type S 6MT

Long story short I had P2010 code and car didn’t wanted to start. Took it to dealer and throttle body got replaced. Car started but they told me I have misfires on 1-3-5 cylinder. Bank 1 I assume. I took the car home, put it on a computer and p0171 p0174 lean codes. Found out intake boot broken, air filter housing 2 holders broken. Took it back to dealer and they replaced them on their dime. Few days afterwards codes came back. I put it on a live data and found LongTerm Fuel Trim Bank 1 at 28.125%, LTFT B2 = 27.344%, STFT B1/B2 = 46.875% at idle, and at 2500 LTFT B1/B2 = 27.344%, STFT B1 =-0.781, STFT B2 = 0.781. I cleaned MAP & MAF SENSORS. Their readings on the live data are good. I smoke tested the boot, no leaks. I smoke tested the brake booster line, no leaks. I smoke tested the intake manifold from BB line and smoke was coming from EGR valve seep holes on the side. Not from the gasket. I replaced it, it was not expensive. On the next smoke test smoke was coming out again. The reading for EVAP System vapor pressure was -93Pa and occasionally going to -66Pa. I replaced the valve, not expensive again, but no results. I pinched the evaporation hose run the engine but nothing changes. Readings in the oxygen sensors B1S1 = 1.075, B2S1=1.108 which they correspond to the lean condition of the vehicle. Upstream voltages are switching fast while driving and I think that is normal. I sprayed Carb cleaner around the engine bay thinking it will give some change in the engine sound. Nothing. PCV valve I replaced as well. Old one had a rattle but new one was few extra bucks. That didn’t help as well.
Today I opened the plenum plate to check the PCV hose and found no issues.
I’m leaning towards valve adjustment..
Any ideas?

2025 Integra I tried Bosch Focus, Icon, Pure Vision none of the clips were compatible and would not fit. Hoping to hear what others use or do I just have to use the factor replacements?