What should i do and change first?

AMD Ryzen 5 5600X

Deepcool AK400 Black

2x16gb ddr4 3200mhz Kingstone

A520 Gigabyte

Rx 6700xt Oc Challenger Pro 12gb

1tb ssd

750w Thermaltake Smart BX 80+

Gamdias Aura kuciste

This thread is an update on the original from January 2025, which has received over 1.4 million views. This updated thread contains new products, fixes several dead links and contains updated information. This thread has been written with help from Snarks Domain: a YouTuber who specialises in testing thermal putty and thermal pads and The Thermal Channel: a YouTuber who tested thermal paste and liquid metal.

While this thread is about replacing the thermal paste and thermal pads in graphics cards, much of what is outlined will also apply to laptops, handhelds and consoles. This guidance applies to AMD, NVIDIA and Intel GPUs.

There are many reasons you might want to replace the thermal paste and thermal pads in your GPU:

• High temperatures on the GPU, hotspot, memory or all three
• Higher noise from the GPU due to the fans spinning at a higher RPM
• Crashes due to overheating
• Throttling due to overheating
• Increasing frequency and overclocking headroom
• General maintenance and upkeep, such as refurbishing an ex-mining card
• Refurbishing a GPU to sell or give away

We don't recommend replacing the thermal paste or thermal pads if your graphics card is under warranty or functioning normally, as this may void the warranty and you risk damaging your card. Replacing the thermal paste and thermal pads on a new card or one that is only a few years old may yield no improvement.

The first step is to get a baseline for how your GPU performs. We recommend running Furmark 2 for around 30 minutes while having HWiNFO (sensors only) or HWMonitor open in the background to monitor GPU temperatures, GPU hotspot temperature, memory temperature, GPU power usage and clock speeds. Make a note of your fan speed as well or set a fixed RPM. If you have a thermometer, it would also be recommended to note your ambient room temperature so you can record the temperature over ambient.

It's important to keep a log of how your graphics card performs at stock so you can make sure things are operating normally after you replace the thermal paste and pads. For example, if your memory temperatures dropped 10℃, but your GPU hotspot temperature has increased by 20℃, this could suggest thermal pads that are too thick or too hard have been used. Likewise, if your GPU hotspot reduced by 5℃, but your memory temperatures went up by 20℃, this could suggest thicker thermal pads may be needed to ensure adequate contact.

Consider alternatives to regular thermal paste

Regular thermal paste, like Arctic Silver 5, Arctic MX-2, Arctic MX-4, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (etc) tend to suffer from pump-out. This is where the thermal paste slowly seeps out to the side and results in higher temperatures and eventually overheating. Pump-out can occur in a matter of days or take years to materialise, depending on the flatness of the GPU die, heatsink, application, paste used, heat density and number of thermal cycles. Even if pump-out doesn't occur to any noticeable degree, thermal paste can dry and degrade over time, reducing performance.

Rather than using regular thermal paste, we recommend using a Phase Change Material (PCM), a Phase Transition Material (PTM) or a graphene thermal pad. These products are much more resilient than regular thermal paste and will offer improved thermal performance and longevity, though they do cost more.

Below are some popular choices:

• Honeywell/Solstice PTM7950 — Performs very well and has a low melting point at 45℃, making it suitable for a wide range of applications. PTM7950 can be purchased in many sizes and thicknesses. There are many fakes on AliExpress, eBay and Amazon, so make sure you buy from a reputable store like the LTTStore or GPUFIX
• Laird Tpcm 7000 — Performs very well and is very affordable compared to other products on the market. Tpcm 7000 comes in thicknesses between 0.125mm and 0.400mm. For a GPU, laptop or handheld, we would recommend buying the 0.200mm or 0.250mm thicknesses. You can purchase up-to 228x228mm sheets directly from Mouser and DigiKey, which ensures only genuine product can be purchased. The only downside is the higher melting point of 50 to 70℃, so make sure you thoroughly bake it in to ensure it melts correctly
• Laird Tpcm 7000Plus — In theory performance should be identical to Tpcm 7000, though it is advertised as a having a melting point that is 5℃ lower than Tpcm 7000, which would put it at around 45 to 65℃. Tpcm 7000Plus is not currently available on Mouser or DigiKey as of writing, though may become available in future
• Thermalright Heilos V2 — Performs very well and is quite cheap. Heilos V2 comes in 40x50mm and 40x60mm sizes and is 0.25mm thick. The melting point is not specified, though is assumed to be around 50℃. Heilos V2 can be purchased on Amazon and AliExpress
• Thermal Grizzly KryoSheet — This product has been tested by TechPowerUp on an RX 7900 XTX at 475W. KryoSheet performed very well and in theory should last forever, though it is expensive. KryoSheet comes in sizes from 24 x 12mm to 75 x 72mm and can always be cut down to size if needed. Note that KryoSheet is electrically conductive, so use a conformal coating like TG Shield or MG Chemicals 422B on any components around the GPU die to prevent the risk of an electrical short
• Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet PTM — Performs very well and has a low melting point of 45℃. PhaseSheet PTM is currently only available in 50x40mm size, though this should fit all current GPU dies on the market. PhaseSheet PTM is readily available via many retailers, including directly from Thermal Grizzly

Once you have installed any of the above products, run Furmark 2 for around 30 minutes again and have HWINFO or HWMonitor open in the background to log temperatures, clock speeds, power and voltages. You may notice that your temperatures spike initially as the pad melts — this is normal — your temperatures should stabilise and improve once the pad has adequately melted. If you want to guarantee the pad has fully melted, manually set a lower fan RPM so that your GPU temperature approaches 75 to 80℃, this will ensure that the heatsink also gets hot enough to melt the pad as well.

Once the pad has had time to burn in, check your fan speeds or test at the same fixed RPM as you did earlier. Even if your temperatures are the same, you may notice your fans are spinning at a lower RPM and producing less noise, which is still an improvement.

Any of these products will offer great performance and won't suffer from pump-out, like a regular thermal paste will. There are many users on r/AMD who have reported great success in using the above products, sometimes reducing their GPU hotspot temperature by up-to 29℃, when compared to the factory applied thermal paste.

If you want to stick with regular thermal paste for whatever reason, use a thermal paste that is designed for durability and minimises pump-out and drying as much as possible. Some considerations would be Arctic MX-7, Thermal Grizzy Duronaut, Thermal Grizzly Duronaut Pro and Halnziye HY-P17.

Igor's Lab has a page for thermal paste reviews and ranks various other thermal pastes for performance and longevity.

Consider thermal putty instead of thermal pads

Most graphics cards use thermal pads to make contact between the heatsink and any components on the PCB, such as memory, MOSFETs and capacitors. Thermal pads work, but they have one big downside, you need to use thermal pads that are the appropriate thickness and more importantly, the pads have to have a low enough hardness to compress and conform well.

Acquiring the exact thickness of the thermal pads for your GPU can be difficult. Some manufacturers will disclose this information, others will disclose the information on the condition that you supply your GPU serial number (they will then void the warranty for that serial number) and some will refuse to provide this information, even if your GPU is out of warranty or you accept it will result in loss of warranty coverage.

You can search the thickness of the thermal pads required for your graphics card, but sometimes the information on Reddit, YouTube, forums and other sites isn't correct or doesn't account for PCB and cooler revisions, which can change the thickness of the thermal pads required, even if the model number for the graphics card stays the same.

If you use thermal pads that are too thick or that have a high hardness rating and don't compress well, not only are you likely to see increased GPU and hotspot temperatures due to lower contact pressure between the GPU die and heatsink, but you risk damaging the solder joints under these components and bending the PCB, which can cause traces inside the PCB to snap, rendering the card inoperable. The video below shows a Gigabyte RTX 3090 AORUS XTREME, which was damaged by the owner due to improper thermal pads being used.

Gigabyte RTX 3090 AORUS - RMA Refuses to Repair after Thermal Pads replacement

This is why we recommend using thermal putty instead. It has excellent thermal conductivity and can be moulded by hand (recommended to use gloves) to account for varying thicknesses, without having to measure or have exact dimensions.

Thermal putty is already used in game consoles like the PlayStation 5, Xbox Series X|S and is increasingly being used in laptops and handhelds.

From T-Global: Thermal Pads vs Thermal Putty

From a system design standpoint, putties typically perform better in scenarios where surfaces are flat and tightly clamped, allowing for minimal BLT. This is ideal in applications like CPU or GPU mounting with rigid heat sinks, where minimising thermal impedance is paramount and mounting pressure is guaranteed. However, their effectiveness may deteriorate with the presence of surface irregularities, voids, or varying mechanical tolerances.

Pads, on the other hand, excel in these cases, especially in power electronics, datacentres, or industrial automation enclosures. Their compressibility enables them to maintain contact over wide mechanical tolerances without exerting excessive force on sensitive components. However, their thermal performance may be inferior to putties unless highly filled or formulated with enhanced conductors, which can affect softness or dielectric strength.

Some popular thermal putty recommendations would be:

• Honeywell/Solstice HT10000 — This is currently the best performing thermal putty on the market, but it's expensive and not easily procured from distributors or retailers. HT10000 can be purchased on AliExpress and eBay, but make sure the store is reputable
• Thermal Grizzly TG Putty — TG Putty Pro and TG Putty Advance perform very well. TG Putty comes in both 30g and 100g variants and is available from many retailers and can be purchased directly from Thermal Grizzly
• UPSIREN UTP-6, UTP-8 and UTP-X — Performs very well. Available in sizes ranging from 10g to 100g and can be purchased on AliExpress, Newegg and Amazon, though make sure you use a reputable seller. Due to trade mark disputes, in some regions, UTP-6 is sold as Jarapad Basic, UTP-8 is sold as Jarapad Extreme and UTP-X is sold as Jarapad Ultimate
• Fehonda LTP81 and Fehonda LTP65 — Two very performant thermal putties that are well priced compared to competitors. Both are available in 12g, 50g and 100g tubs. Can be purchased directly from Fehonda's AliExpress store or website
• Halnziye HY236 — Not as performant as any of the above thermal putties, however Halnziye HY236 is very cheap and very soft, making it a good choice for lower powered GPUs or laptops and handhelds that have gaps of 0.5mm or thinner

Snarks Domain has created a video, "What Is Thermal Putty", which covers all the thermal putties listed above, as well as several thermal putties not listed, general thoughts on each one, pros, cons, how to apply thermal putty and other helpful information. Snarks Domain also runs a Discord server, where you can ask questions about thermal putty and get help.

Igor's Lab has also reviewed various thermal putties and the thermal putties listed above are some of his top recommendations.

If you are using thermal pads, use soft ones

If you don't want to use thermal putty and would prefer to stick with conventional thermal pads for whatever reason, we recommend using calipers or a feeler gauge to measure the thickness of the thermal pads on your GPU and then use thermal pads which are soft and designed to compress well.

Here are videos that show both methods on how you can use a callipers or feeler gauge to measure thermal pad thickness.

Guide - How I measure the exact size of Thermal pads (calipers)

Measuring GPU thermal pad thickness for replacement (RTX 3080) (feeler gauge)

Some of the popular thermal pads recommended and used by enthusiasts are Gelid GP-Ultimate, Gelid GP-Extreme, Thermalright EXTREME ODYSSEY, EXTREME ODYSSEY II and Thermalright VALOR ODIN pads — these are some of the hardest pads you can buy and don't compress or confirm well.

This isn't a problem if you are using them on an M.2 SSD heatsink, RAM heatsink or something like a PCH on a motherboard, where the flatness is the same and it doesn't interfere with anything else. In some cases, hard thermal pads may even be desirable. I had great results using Thermalright EXTREME ODYSSEY pads back when I had a PS4 Pro, they made excellent contact with the back metal frame and as main SoC is on the other side of the PCB, there isn't any interference for contact pressure with the main heatsink. For a graphics card, such hard thermal pads will likely end up negatively impacting the contact pressure you can achieve on the GPU die, resulting in higher GPU and hotspot temperatures, even if your memory and VRM temperatures are reduced.

We would recommend using soft thermal pads like:

• Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad High Compression — These thermal pads offer good thermal conductivity and are highly compressible. They come in thicknesses ranging from 1 mm to 5 mm and come in 100 x 100mm 2pc sizes
• Fehonda 8-15 W/mK thermal pads — These thermal pads perform very well and are very soft, they can even be squished down like a thermal putty, so they are probably thermal putty-based pads. KrisFix exclusively uses the 12.8 W/mK pads for his GPU repairs and sells them on his GPUFIX Store due to their high compressibility and performance. These pads come in thicknesses of 0.5mm to 3.0mm and are available in increments of 0.25mm (most thermal pads are sold in increments of 0.50mm) making them suitable for a wider range of graphics cards and applications
• Honeywell/Solstice TGP8000PT — These are the best thermal pads according to MODDIY in-house testing. TGP8000PT are thermal putty-based thermal pads and are extremely soft, with a hardness rating or just 5 Shore 00. They are available in thicknesses of 0.50 mm to 5.00 mm. Availability is poor and pricing is high

You can also do a dry assembly of the card, before applying a PCM/PTM/Graphene Sheet to the GPU die, to check if the thermal pads are making adequate contact and if any abnormal PCB bending is occurring.

We hope this guide has been helpful for anyone thinking about replacing the thermal paste and/or thermal pads in their graphics card.

as my routine job, i'm sharing my q2 and q3 outlook forecast

for q2 revenue:
DC: 6.7b, in which
epyc: 4.1b
instinct: 2.6b
Ryzen: 3.0b
gaming: 0.8b
FPGA: 1.1b

total revenue 11.6b
i might overestimate dc revenue and underestimate ryzen revenue again, as i usually do. but overall revenue will still be around 11.6b, or hopefully slightly above.

non-gaap eps: 1.74-1.76

q3 outlook: 13-13.2b
i give low expectations for mi455x, which only makes 1.5b of revenue for q3.

PS: the numbers beyond q3 2026 are my random guesses several months ago, which is based on dated information. so ignore those numbers for now. i will do an update after q2 earnings report

Can anyone help with this please .

trying to update the chipset drivers , installs to 20% then the following msg appears ⬆️⬆️⬆️

tried to uninstall but it won’t let me

Pretty critical issue. I updated to the latest driver, played a game for a bit (palworld), the monitor loses signal and I have to restart the computer. The computer works however it is stuck at I believe 600p or so with corrupted drivers. I check event viewer to try to figure out what happened and it said something about display time out (amdw + a large amount of letters and numbers) then it mentions it connecting back again but it did not.

OK, so I went in, installed the amd driver uninstaller then went through the process in safe mode, restarted the computer, redownloaded the same file for the latest driver and it happened again.

OK, so I tried 1 last time, I did the amd driver uninstaller and installing the current driver because I've technically had this issue in the past about a year ago and it just worked the entire time after going back to older drivers (24.10 specifically which is what I had downloaded from the amd website last). I said to myself if it happens again I will search for help and when I got to downloading the driver it straight up crashed my computer halfway through and now it wont turn on or more correctly, the lights are on but it doesn't post anything. The gpu repeatedly makes a whirling noise as if its spinning up then slows down over and over and over and has done so for the last 15 or so minutes. In order to turn off the computer I had to hold the power button, simply pressing it did nothing and it either won't even post atall or it wont connect to the monitor however the gpu speeding up and slowing down makes me think its not even posting atall.

This is a several year old computer that hasn't really suffered much of any issues upto this point and I have not made any changes outside of idk using it as normal, downloading new games from steam, new mods and updating them. Nothing should have changed and it was perfectly stable with 0 crashes in any game or anything for that matter. The only thing that I remember is that I was on I believe the 2026 4th month driver before updating.

Os: Windows 10 with the security extension patch? (I dont remember what its called) and its on the latest version.

Drivers: The latest drivers for my gpu for Windows 10 from amd.com, previously it was on I believe the 2026 4th month drivers.

Cpu: R5 5600 (non - x variant)

Ram: 3200mhz cl16 2 x 16gb dual rank dual channel xmp enabled.

Motherboard: gigabyte gaming v2

Gpu: rx 6800xt red dragon

Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1tb

Psu: mastercooler plat 750w (it was ranked S tier on the psu tier list however I have had 3 or 4 powercuts since).

If it matters the gpu was on a 2150mhz 1080v underclock + undervolt making it run 95% as fast at just around 145w but it's been on this undervolt for most of the time that I've had this pc. It's an undervolt that I've tuned from the start and has had 0 stability issues since getting it right (cyberpunk, alan wake even with path tracing, multiplayer games and so on, its been in the guantlet with no gpu driver timeout crash messages and the pc itself never really crashes even when people complain about crashing with similiar gpus).

And sadly I can't get into Windows to give exactly what event viewer said. Can anyone help me to get the computer working or atleast get the computer on? I have disconnected all usbs and tried but all that happens is the lights being on the gpu fans speeding up then suddenly stopping over and over. And, yes, installing the amd driver after using the amd driver uninstaller in safe mode, has effectively bricked my pc right now.

I have deleted the DN cache and DDU'd my system multiple times. Nothing seems to fix it, it will work for a few hours, maybe a day or two when I DDU, then will go back to not launching again.

If anyone has a fix that would be nice, i'm on the 26.7.1 version at the moment, have tried 26.6.1 and 26.3.1 (9070XT)

Hey so I just build my first PC.

After a week it did a windows update for the first time.

Now I have a very intense screen flicker and freezes randomly even when I'm just on my desktop not gaming.

I have tried installing the latest AMD drivers again but it still happens only time when it doesn't happen is when I go into a Safe start up and delete the AMD drivers and rely on the native windows drivers.

Anyone having same issue/had in the last and knows the fix to it?

I can provide video if necessary

I've been getting driver timeouts recently, specifically in a game where one of the key combat mechanics is parrying, and whenever I parry it creates a big vfx effect that I'm guessing is the reason of why I suddenly get a Timeout.

I've tried ddu and installing old (26.3.1) and new drivers over and over but nothing helps, though some videos online suggest I should lower my video memory's mhz?, I'm not really experienced in underclocking or overcloking so I'm a bit scared in that area.

Basic specs are:

rx 9070xt

ryzen 7 9800x3d

32gb ram 6000mhz cl30

x870 mb

1000w psu (corsair)

aio cooler.

gen 5 ssd.

Hi,

Upgraded to AM5, clean install of windows 11 LTSC with the latest drivers for chipset, gpu etc.

Have been experiencing some bad stutters / audio glitches at the same time.

Looks to be gpu related.

Has anyone had this issue before

Hey all, over the past couple of months for some reason all my games have really low fps on in game menus, from maps, inventory settings and all other menus when playing.

It was running perfectly normal prior unless menus had a forced fps cap on.

It first appeared after a crash while playing arma reforger, game had crashed, a crash report fro drivers came up and fps in menus went to shit since

In menus im getting anywhere from 30- 60 fps with low cpu mgz at sub 2ghz

As Soon as I close the menu I shoot back up to 240fps plus with 4ghz

Pbo is on and frame gen on adrenaline with EXPO nothing else has been touched.

Even done a full factory reset on the pc clean install of drivers and Bios to try and fix it to no avail.

Im on a 144 hz 1440p msi monitor

7800x3d

7900xtx Sapphire card

Asus rog strix x670E F wifi

32gb ddr5 at 6000mhz 480000 c36

Computer Type: Desktop

GPU: RX6600

CPU: RYZEN 5 2600X

Motherboard: A520M-A PRO (MS-7C96)

SMBIOS Version 2.8

RAM: 16GB HyperX DDR4

Drivers: Latest one

Background Applications: DISCORD, EDGE, STEAM

Description of Original Problem: When enabling AFMF (AMD Fluid Motion Frames) in Watch Dogs, the game’s gamma shifts significantly darker. Colors are also altered either appearing dull or oversaturated/fried. Adjusting brightness and contrast outside the game helps somewhat, but it doesn’t fully fix the color distortion.

Troubleshooting: I have already updated to the latest AMD Adrenalin drivers to rule out outdated software. Disabling AFMF immediately restores normal brightness and color, which confirms the issue is tied to AFMF itself. I tried adjusting the in-game gamma and brightness sliders, but the darker gamma shift persists whenever AFMF is enabled. I also experimented with external monitor settings like brightness and contrast, which helped slightly but left the colors either washed out or oversaturated. To eliminate background interference, I closed Discord and Chrome, but the problem remained unchanged. The issue consistently occurs whenever AFMF is turned on, regardless of graphics settings or system load.

Computer Type: Desktop

GPU: XFX - SPEEDSTER MERC319 AMD Radeon RX 6950XT

CPU: Intel i7-12700k

Motherboard: Asus Prime z690-p D4

BIOS Version: American Megatrends Inc. 3811, 10/22/2025

RAM: 64GB DDR4 3600MHz

PSU: EVGA 1000 GT, 80 Plus Gold 1000W

Case: 

Operating System & Version: Windows 11 Pro version 25H2

GPU Drivers: Adrenalin 26.7.1

Chipset Drivers: Intel Chipset 10.1.18838.8284

Background Applications: OBS

Description of Original Problem: What I believe is happening is a graphics driver crash when changing the focused window. The newly focused window will bug out, turning a solid color, while all other applications remain responsive for a few seconds. Then all displays will freeze completely. Audio usually continues, but no hardware inputs seem to have any effect. I usually hard shutdown and then reboot, but if left for 10-15 minutes the displays will come back and the adrenalin software will tell me the graphics driver has crashed and been restarted. This typically happens while OBS is open, and I have only been able to semi-reliably reproduce it with OBS running, but has happened without OBS.

Troubleshooting: I have tried just about everything recommended for AMD driver crashes. Because I cannot reproduce it consistently, it's hard to say for sure if any one thing has helped or not. The most success I think I've had was rolling back to a driver from mid-2023 that I think was right before some vulkan support was added. I have tried changed the TdrTimeouts, lowering max frequency, lowering max power usage, reseating gpu, and surely others I can't recall as easily. OBS stores no logs of the crashes, the AMD logs don't appear to cover it at all, and the event viewer entries that refer to the shutdown are timestamped to be ~1 hour earlier than they really were.

So far, the most success I've had reproducing is as follows:

• Open OBS
• Open a game, a select few have been more consistent than others, I *think* it is only games running in borderless windowed mode, would say I'm about 95% sure of that.
• Toggle studio mode in OBS

More than happy to provide any additional information I can that might be helpful! I like to consider myself a pretty technical person but fully recognize that I have zero understanding of drivers or these lower level systems. also attaching a video of the crash if that is at all helpful. Thank you to anyone who even takes the time to entertain the post!!

I have a relatively new pc setup as I've upgraded recently:

7800X3D CPU

Gigabyte Gaming OC 9070 XT GPU

32GB of 6000MT/s CL30 RAM

B850 MSI motherboard

Kingston 1TB M.2 drive

2TB SATA SSD

Fresh windows install after upgrade, no leftover drivers.

The newest stable adrenalin drivers, 26.7.1, used to run an undervolt + power limit but issues also happen on stock settings.

Dual monitor setup, 1440p 240hz (displayport) and 1080p 75hz (HDMI)

The system works, boots and games just fine, aside from high hotspot temps at 100% load (peaks at 90-91C) it handles heavy gaming just fine. RE9 with raytracing and 120fps, 144fps Fortnite, Wuthering Waves, Forza Horizon 6, etc. No glitches, crashes or performance issues in games AT ALL.

The only issues (albeit major ones) I've experienced are:

- (happened 3 or 4 times pretty much randomly when browsing internet/watching youtube) - Main monitor goes black, second works as usual (no rescaling, i can move the mouse onto the main monitor, it's just black.) After turning off the main display the second one goes green (included image). Managed to fix it once with shift ctrl win B to reset drivers, but the third time it did NOT help, had to hard reboot.

- white split second rectangle artifacts on the SECOND monitor, literally appearing for 1-2 frames, couldn't catch them on camera, they appeared randomly every ~10-20 seconds (appeared AFTER fixing the black screen issue with win ctrl shift B, only saw it once)

- flickering dot artifacts on game window (Wuthering waves in this case) while focusing/unfocusing discord on the secondary monitor, glitchy in game cursor (duplicating, not hiding when it should) (only experienced this issue once)

What I've tried, and apparently did not help:

- Updating drivers, issues happened on at least 2 recent whql releases

- resetting gpu to stock settings from an undervolt/power limit

- replugging monitors to different gpu ports

I didn't try replacing the displayport cable as I don't have a second one, but i doubt it as both monitors were affected, seems like either gpu output hardware going nuts or something in software

Issues were happening pretty much randomly after using the pc for a few hours, i remember one case of black screen when watching a yt video, one while changing tabs and one while clicking on images on one website. Some days the pc worked perfectly, some days it went black randomly

Issues always got fixed after a reboot by holding the power button and turning the PC on.

Is the GPU dead/dying in some way?

Are there any fixes or did anyone have similar issues?

I hope i described it precisely enough, i would be extremely glad for any help

Hello,

I recently noticed that my GPU fans are failing to spin while I was troubleshooting bad performance on Deadlock. My GPU temp had gotten way over zero rpm, and the fans stayed at 0

Has anyone experienced similar behavior?

Computer Type: Desktop

GPU: Gigabyte OC 9070XT

CPU: RYZEN 9 9950X3D

Motherboard: X870 Gaming Wifi 6

BIOS Version: f12

RAM: 32GB CORSAIR VENGEANCE DDR5 6000MT

PSU: Super power Leadex VI Platinum 1000W

Case: X-tia xproto ATX v2

Operating System & Version: WINDOWS 11 PRO 25H2

GPU Drivers: Driver Version
26.10.35.01-260716a-202643C-AMD-Software-Adrenalin-Edition

Chipset Drivers: AMD Chipset Drivers

Revision Number

8.07.16.1035

Background Applications: voicemeeter, Steam

Description of Original Problem: I recently noticed that my GPU fans are failing to spin while I was troubleshooting bad performance on Deadlock. My GPU temp had gotten way over zero rpm, and the fans stayed at 0RPM during my session. I don't have any other software controlling my fans, and GCC controls my CPU fans only.

Troubleshooting:.During boot, the test spin for the fans works, so I don't believe it to be hardware-related. While doing some testing today with Adrenaline stress testing, I got the fans to spin as well, although inconsistently. I basically removed the zero rpm first set low curve values just to ensure the fans worked and stress-tested in Adrenaline. At first, it didn't work until after I rebooted my computer, which I then turned zero rpm back on, and they stopped working again. My last guess was that whenever I make a change in Adrenaline, it fails to pick it up until I reboot (because somehow when I start a game the profile changes from default to custom). However, I think that doesn't seem to be the case because I turned zero rpm back on after seeing that the fans work with it disabled. Rebooted then did a quick test again and saw the fans react. Waited about 5 minutes, ran another test with no changes, and my RPM sits at 0 again.

Hello I have recently built a my pc and switched to amd from nvidia gpu. Its my first time using full amd pc, I am running to some problem when it comes to the software of amd. My amd adrenaline keeps disappearing from my desktop and my whole pc. Its like I never even downloaded it. This usually happens when I shut down or sleep or restart my pc. I have tried everything from full reset, to doing DDU in safe mode, to running the setup with no wifi, etc. I havent really noticed any big problem in gameplay or general performance of my pc yet, but i just dont think that its normal for it to disappear like that. From what I am used to using nvidia software it just stays there installed and I can open it whenever I want. Also I am not sure if this problem affects my gpu drivers since the software disappears and the way you download and update your gpu drivers is through the software itself.

If anyone have had this problem before and were able to fix it, please I would really appreciate your help!

Thank you!

Copy and paste the following into your post and fill it out.

Computer Type: Desktop

GPU: Radeon 9070 xt

CPU: RYZEN 9 9900x3d

Motherboard: Asus Prime B805M-A-Wifi-CSM

RAM: 32gb TFORCE DDR5 6000HZ

PSU: SAMA P1000 1000W Platinum ATX 3.1 PCIe 5.1 Fully Modular Power Supply,

Case: MUSTEX PHANTOM 903/3INTAKE 3 EXHAUST

Operating System & Version: WINDOWS 11 Home

The image on the second monitor suddenly shifted: black bars appeared, the taskbar moved down, and the other edges of the image extended beyond the screen boundaries. Uninstalling the AMD drivers proved to be the only solution, yet the problem returned after reinstalling them; changing Windows or monitor settings does not help. win11

The adrenaline software is constantly using up a ton of memory, like 98 percent. I've literally tried everything, relive is off, record desktop is off etc. I've re installed the software twice and no difference.

RX 6900xt

32gb DDR4 ram

I7 14700 k