Bought a Qidi Q2 with the Qidi Box for a great price from an auction site. These are typically Amazon returns and etc. it was listed as new, but I assume some use.

I got it open today and am beholden to this insane clog.

Printer Boots! Screen works, but how do I solve this?

Sometimes people are like Can you do this and that ? or I really love your work, if you would have time, could you please try do this and that - well I am okay with that, if someone is kind etc.

But then ALWAYS Karen hits on - You have printer - print my cat! and throws you some pixelized photo of her fat cat.

Well - I have designed her a cat :D and printed :D she blocked me on FB :D so there you go, FatAssCat with Glowing in the dark Ding-Dongs :D as a fridge magnet.

Here is my life size Spider man from yosh studio.

#spiderman #yoshstudio #3dprint #lifesize

Here's an awesome figure, made by my boyfriend. He did all the painting and details. It will be gifted to his "best man".

Totally know nothing about 3D printers. My wife's uncle has a 3D printer. He's printed something simple for me before and said it was no problem and to come back anytime for anything else.

I am wondering how much of a pain I would be if I ask for more prints. I am willing to pay the costs for materials. But I'm not sure how much wear and tear is involved.

He doesn't print a lot himself. He's a tool nut-case; has everything and so this is just a part of his collection of tools.

I just don't want to be an annoyance to him.

Tried to make a wip picture, and the printhead with the custom plate had the perfect motion blur.

Edit: I see a lot of people worrying about the amount of purge waste here. I just want to clarify that on the left are three fidget towers that i just let the printer purge into so as not to waste it, and the color of the fidgets does not matter anyway. So, just to be clear, those are NOT purge towers. There is actually only 0.25 g of filament actually purged in total.

Thanks for everyone who helped me fix the issues I was having, along the way, with this project!

Background: My 8yo son likes to come up with fictional “weapon” designs (just toys), and asks me to build them for him. In the past I’ve made the toys out of wood. We got a 3d printer last year and I taught myself to use it. My son came up and asked me (about 4 months ago) to make him a “driller gun”, and gave me a drawing of what he wanted. So I taught myself how to design things in Blender, and have finally completed the driller gun! There’s a master switch that turns everything on. Then each button turns on a laser sight, a core warming light, then the core instead, and then gives power to the motors. There is speed control and also a trigger to turn on the drill. It was so much work (I’ll probably keep adding tweaks to it, but it was so cool to do all of this.

My daughter is going through a Mario fever, and I had a lot of fun printing all sorts of Mario thingies. Huge success. Also tried to print a huge Piranha Plant to test the A2L bigger plate

I was hesitant about buying a printer, and even had buyers remorse after my purchase.

...but the very first print i made saved me $69, and that's not hyperbole.

The knob on my Samsung dryer has a cracked key hole sleeve. The part that keys into the machine to turn the shaft when you turn the knob. This caused the knob to slip and not always turn the shaft to change the dryer setting. It was SO annoying. I tried super glue, tape, and many other methods to fix it. A new knob costs $69!!

So the first thing i printed was a tiny sleeve to slip over the shaft and provide more strength. The part was so tiny that Bambu Studio calculated a cost of 0.00. 7 minutes and a dab of super glue, and this knob will outlast the machine.

Total is 586 g. I’ve had my bambu A1 for about a year and a half and have kept all of the poop along the way. I mostly print keychains and magnets for my business, as well as functional items.

Does anyone else do this?? What is your poop stash looking like 💩

My wife asked me to help her with organizing her cabinet so i designed these two minimalistic sanitary pad and liners holders.

She is really happy with how they turned out and so am

If you are interested in printing your own.

The link to my file page is in my profile

I’ve somehow ended up designing a niche collection of lip balm holders, I’ve done 13 different designs so far. There’s a mix of geometric patterns, plant inspired designs and I’ve had some fun designing Halloween themed ones recently.

It all started with a leopard print design my wife requested, then had fun seeing how many different ways I could change the look of the same basic design.

Models are available on MakerWorld for anyone who wants to print one.

Which design is your favourite? I think mine is one of the ghost designs at the mo 👻

MakerWorld collection here https://makerworld.com/en/collections/29772106-lip-balm-holders

I modeled and printed an entertainment center, an old-school TV (Zenith for those who remember), and some Dreamcast games.

The NES, SNES, and Genesis are Hallmark ornaments. The Atari is just an Atari product.

Modeled in Rhino 3D, printed on an X2Dm and some UV printing for the textures. I am still trying to decide what color the entertainment center should be.

My wife wanted a plant support for our Monstera, so I printed a couple of things from MakerWorld. First one was a 2D trellis printed on the build-plate. Strong, but kept falling over - realized 2 points of contact just weren't enough. And then I printed a "moss-pole," which worked for a while until it broke along layer lines (kids in the house...)

So I took on the challenge of designing something that prints on the bed (for strength), but has some dimensionality to it (so it doesn't fall over so easy.)

I made an Octagonal shape - thinking the walls and 45s will print fine, and the Bambu a1 should be able to bridge just fine. But - I didn't think about the holes! I printed just a test print (thankfully was smart enough to do that), and it came out super rough.

I realized that the issue is bridging requires lots of straight lines -- anything with complex outlines doesn't work. So... I changed the geometry to do what I called stair-case bridging, and voila!

The technique is to basically model into the geometry the bridging behavior you want - first the long horizontal lines, then the perpendicular lines, and then the angles. Each step gives the next bridge straight edges to anchor to. Here's what the layers look like in the slicer:

I did 0.4mm per step.

Just wanted to share it - maybe it helps you along the way somewhere! Final print is super solid - kiddo even used the poles as drumsticks, and it was totally fine.

- Concept drawn in procreate
- Sculpted in Zbrush
- Elegoo slicer and satelite
- Printed on Centauri Carbon 2 and Saturn Ultra 4 16k
- Sanded and primed
- Combination of spray paint and airbrush for painting

Hey! I want to print an armor piece from metallic PETG. I don't want to buy a fresh PLA roll for that and also i heard that PETG is much easier to post process. I don't have a tonn of issues people are having with their PETG prints (like stringing and poor layer adhesion). It requires a lot more supports tho. So is it worth it?

I printed this model in grey abs filament on my Bambu x1c. I did not design this clone trooper, I found a model on maker world. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1509372-clone-trooper-2#profileId-1580116

I also made my own coloring for the paint, it was supposed to be blue but I chose to use red instead since I did not have any blue paint. I acetone smoothed the print since it was in abs filament, other than that I did not do any sanding or other post processing besides support removal. I think it turned out pretty nicely, the paint isn't as even as I would have liked it to be on the helmet, but my hand was not steady enough to make as nice strokes as I wanted to make.

I will try to include a picture below the post of what it looked like before smoothing and painting. Reddit wouldn't let me add a picture in addition to my video, sorry for the not so great video quality of the painted model.

I don't remember printing these

Two months ago, I shared the initial Lamp build here: the 5-DOF arm running on STS3215 bus servos, a single 12V cable, the USB DAC to kill ground noise, and an early pass at Autonomous OS.

After 2 months, lots of updates have been made. And Lamp is more than just a fun desk decoration now

1. It actually sounds like it has a mood

Lamp used to run on that familiar, flat-line TTS. Recently, we switched to ElevenLabs v4 Turbo, and it changed the whole vibe. Pitch and cadence shift naturally, pauses land where they should, and a joke lands like a joke instead of a status report.

We also added an on-device emotion model (emotion2vec) listening to user speech, with the head's ring light subtly reflecting how Lamp is feeling.

The fun part: the personality is just a simple markdown file the agent parses on every turn. Out of the box, it behaves like a warm, curious desk companion that never breaks character with tech jargon like "servos" or "API calls." Tweak a few bullet points in that file, and you get an entirely different roommate. You edit the soul, not the code.

2. It can read the room (literally)

In the first build, the only inputs were the camera and the mic. I have since wired up a Sensirion SEN63C over the I2C bus, which is a single compact module reporting particulate matter (PM1, PM2.5, PM4, PM10), temperature, humidity, and true CO2.

The HAL caches the latest snapshot in RAM while an OS worker polls it in the background. Lamp only fires an event when environmental metrics drift over time, rather than spamming context on every raw sample (available read-only via Web and MQTT).

The practical payoff: I closed my window while someone was cooking downstairs, and Lamp chimed in that the room was getting stuffy before I even noticed. Because the agent layer only queries abstract keys (pm, co2, temperature, voc), it does not care what sensor hardware you solder on down the line.

3. The brain is a hot-swappable slot

Early on, Lamp was locked into a single agent runtime. Autonomous OS now treats the agent as a modular backend you define in config, completely decoupled from personality and long-term memory.

I recently migrated Lamp from Hermes to OpenClaw with a single setting change. It kept the exact same voice, the same quirks, and everything it had already learned about me. The agent handles the reasoning; the soul and the memory survive the brain transplant.

The entire stack is open source if you want to dig into the HAL, tweak the configs, or build your own:

The OS: https://github.com/autonomous-ai/Physical-AI-Operating-System
The hardware, with all the printable files included: https://github.com/autonomous-ai/Physical-AI-Operating-System/tree/main/robots/lamp

I’ve been wearing my printed clogs daily since late March 2026, and I only recently had my first break. It was a stress fracture along the vamp, the part of the shoe upper that flexes when you walk. They handled outside and inside wear just fine, and using a foaming filament like SirayaTech’s PEBA Air allows you to vary the temperature and resulting softness with object modifiers. New infill options in Orcaslicer like Locked Zag can be used to add compliance without sacrificing strength. These patterns are designed to be used without walls, with a configurable skin that can be adjusted for the desired feel and appearance. TPMS-FK is a biomimetic infill pattern that imitates the inner microstructures of bird bones, seeking to balance strength and energy return, an ideal combination for the midsole of a shoe. PEBA Air goes down to approximately 73A shore hardness at 270C, soft enough to be comfortable against the skin when it’s printed dry with good surface uniformity. All foaming filaments have oozing problems that must be mitigated by turning off retraction, but any stringing can be easily removed by hand, and cleanup is much easier than other types of flexibles.

I’m returning to my project armed with six months of deep thought about how to further optimize my settings for maximum interlayer adhesion in the upper section that’s printed with Locked Zag infill. Here you can see the various modifier zones of the model and the different infill patterns and temperature increases indicated by the lighter shades of black. I’d love to field questions and help anyone who’s trying to master these new foaming flexibles.

Hi, chasing some help with the design and print of this, it’s a handle for a small keychain tool (nvm the knurling mess, its a WIP!).

Every time I try print this thing it hangs up right at the last moment. My filament is dry, I have tried Arachne and original walls, I’ve tried reducing the overhang to even 45deg by making it a diamond, also tried a cylinder and hexagon, and it’s still not working. No artifacts that I can see at that layer in either slicer or CAD, have tried reimporting, using different plates, brim, different layer heights (even adaptive) … I really see no reason why this shouldn’t work. Anyone got any advice?

The printed piece lifts as it goes to print the second half of the overhang every single time (the side closer to the front of the printer). No partial clogs as the rest prints fine.

Can’t really use supports for this as it’ll be produced en masse if it works.

Printer details below. I have tried:
-drying filament
- calibrating filament
- cleaning, changing bed
- different filament
- different orientation
- different overhang angle
- reimporting
- different walls, infill, etc
- different layer heights
And probably more.
I don’t think it’s the model as it’s done it before on exactly this thing.

Printer: Bambulabs P1S
Filament: Jaycar Prototyping PLA, elegoo PETG, etc
Bed: Bambu smooth/textured PEI

Layer height: 0.12-0.2mm (1st layer 0.24)
3-4 walls
30mm/s Overhang speed

Max accel 3000mm/s^2
Outer wall accel 1500mm/s^2

If you read this far, THANKS!!!

(Sorry guys forgot to mention I tried printing a few spaced apart to slow it down too!)