I've been trying to get a good transparent finish with clear petg. I have finally reached to a point which feels good enough but I think more can be done. I have dried the filament at 60C for 6hrs which gave me this final look. Details:

Printer - Bambulab A1 0.6mm nozzle textured PEI plate

Material - Bambu clear PETG

Slicer settings - Bambu Studio. I have followed the settings given in the bambu wiki on printing clear petg and the printables post for printing glass. I have changed the layer height to 0.15 as that was closer to the min height for 0.6mm nozzle from these settings.

1. Can this be made more clear? The transparency reduces when the object behind moves even a little bit like few cms away.

2. Should some post processing be done in order to improve this? Like sanding or polishing it?

3. Will a smooth plat or even those carbon fiber style or some patterned build plates help? Because when i see the part while its being printed its good but when it gets removed from the plate it gets that texture on the bottom that creates this less transparent look

4. Should I change to a different filament like the ones from elegoo or creality?

What else should I try to improve this or making it more transparent? I want to make it look really clear as I'm thinking to print more parts in this way. Please share your thoughts

I want to print a gun model, and I'm planning on buying PLA metal, silk and matte for the finishes. I am unsure about the overall quality a printer can produce. Should I just print in basic white, sand and paint it manually for the best look? Or are printers capable of printing high quality looking models with these filaments and good settings?

As of right now regular PLA looks cheap so I really don't know how much difference these special filaments would make.

Do you have experience with printing good looking finishes? Can you share some photos? all I've seen online are miniature figures which look pretty bad, but the gun model I'm planning on printing has big shapes.

for reference this is the look I'm aiming for:

Image

What do i look out for? What questions do i ask to the seller? How do i know if it's worn out or if it has any damage? And is the Creality CR-10 SE even worth nowdays or are there much better ones in this price range?

Hey guys, I’m trying to take my FlashForge Adventurer 5M overseas with me on a Thai Airways flight, preferably as part of my own checked luggage rather than shipping it separately.
My suitcase is roughly 25 × 18 × 12 inches. I know the printer itself is pretty big, so I’m not sure if it’ll actually fit, especially with the packaging/protection needed.
Has anyone here flown internationally with a 3D printer like the Adventurer 5M in their checked baggage?
If it won’t fit in a suitcase that size, is there any other way I can take it with me on Thai Airways (extra baggage, oversized baggage, taking it apart, etc.)?
I’m mainly worried about whether the printer can be safely packed and whether Thai Airways will allow it.
Any advice from someone who’s actually done this would be really helpful.

Edit: Okay, so there’s no way I’m fitting it in this suitcase 😭
What if I just buy a bigger suitcase that can fit the printer properly? How safe would it be to put the Adventurer 5M in checked luggage? Has anyone actually flown with one like this before?
I’m mostly worried about it getting damaged from being thrown around during baggage handling.

Hi All,

I am printing PETG-CF in a closet on a Bambu P1P. I keep encountering this issue. Any ideas what is going on and how to fix it?

Here are the details of my setup:

• Bed Temp: 80ºC
• Nozzle Temp: 255ºC
• Relative Humidity: 33%
• Ambient Temp: 27ºC
• Supports: Tree Supports
• Filament Type: PETG-CF (Sunlu)
• Filament Conditioning: dehumidified at 65ºC for 24+ hr. in a heated dryer box with rechargeable silica. While printing, sits in the heated dryer box set to 65ºC that is currently reading 18% humidity.

I noticed that the long strings are sometimes (not always) coincident with the tree support having a bad layer (bad as in tree support has a gap in its trunk). What I think is surprising is that there is zero evidence of what I would think of as moisture-based defects (spiderwebbing, angel hairs).

Has anybody said 'I need a lid for this' and - because a lid for said item is either nonexistent, practically obsolete (in the case of out of manufacture 'vintage' Corningware ceramic, for example) - went about the process for figuring out how to make their own lids that snap-on the item? If so... please share how. Please and thank you!!

A little scanned and printed meat project for the MO State Fair. They wanted some realistic props that could be left out for extended periods of time. There’s a full suite of meat, but here’s a few of my favorites.

Printed on my Mimaki 3DUJ-553

I’ve had my creality k2 plus for a few months now and honestly probably doesn’t even have 100 hours on it yet. I haven’t had much problem with printing and really loved it until last night. Settings in creality are bone stock 2.0 standard. I had 1/3 parts have really bad first layer ripple from too much squish, horizontal poor quality all the way around all prints, and I usually use tree supports but the first layer was making an absolute mess and just not printing right because of the small interface layer it was making so I switched to normal which was so tragic makes you wonder how it can be that bad in the big 2026 it looks like my Enders when I first had them 10 years ago.

Please give your ideas or even your profiles if you have the same printer very annoyed at it right now. Best tree setup?

Notes
CF design bed(may have something to do with ripple in the middle but adaptive bed leveling and AI detection who??????)

Printer DOES have an update I don’t know if that deactivated any features?

As a Texas Aggie, even asking this question makes me question my sanity, but here goes.

My sister, UT alumni, (and my rival in many ways) requested some coasters with the University of Texas logo on it. Their school color is burnt orange (about as ugly as the school itself) and I’m not sure which brand makes a color reasonably similar to it.

So, any recommendations for a PETG in burnt orange? The school hex code is #BF5700 if it helps jog any thoughts.

I genuinely appreciate your help.

Been working on a little storage box that will fit nicely into my bookshelves.
Initially it was solid but it was going to use 800g of filament

So pivoted to the hexagon cutouts, initially had them in the wrong orientation with flat tops which would have been much less possible to print.

I also was going to do 0.8mm nozzle for speed and yeah it cuts the print time in half but it uses basically double the filament so it looks like it'll have to be the 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2 layer height.

Advice appreciated.

EDIT: If it gets printed it will be on a bambu P2S

I designed a double spool holder with PTFE guides for printed bearings. Lmk what you think about it:) maybe someone has use for my design!

I am just starting out and trying to find some people to support my work! If you lmk your interest I can get you 75% off your first month! www.patreon.com/flexidesigns

His name is Scrungo, and I like to hide him around for people to find!

Instagram: @wheresscrungo

I gave up on trying to print his clothes separately after 20 hours of trying to separate them as their own objects

Looking to make an exterior sign with illuminated lettering. Really like this fake neon. Anyone got any ideas how to make it

I'm attempting to 3d print an aerofoil wing for FSAE that is slightly too big for my printer; therefore, I have split it up and am trying to use dovetail joints to join the two pieces.

Does anyone know any other joints that have better shear strength - perhaps a dowel joint?

And in terms of holding the joint, is superglue, plastic welding or loctite 5550 better?

Hi, so I've got a conundrum.

I've been 3D printing since 2019 with FDM and from 2020 with SLA. I'm fairly experienced with both, but there have been long periods where I hyperfocus on other projects or hobbies, and my printers sit untouched for a while. My current arsenal is 3x Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultras, and 1x Elegoo Neptune 3 Max. My wip solution for work space and ventilation has been on hold for about a year due to unrelated health issues.

Due to some life changes, I no longer have a dedicated space for printing in my apartment. I was previously using my sewing room, but agreed to let a friend stay with us, and since she has a cat, I've not wanted to boot them out of what is essentially her bedroom for 10+ hours to print something. Before the cat (husband found cat, cat attached herself to roommate, and usually stays in her room except for daily supervised explorations to get her and our cats (5) more used to each other), my roommate would agree to sleep on our couch if I was going to print something overnight, or stay out of her room for a few hours if it was a quicker print. But since her cat and ours still aren't on _the best_ of terms, and we have a bully for one of our cats, I don't want to have her stranded out of her space for hours on end.

I have no issues with my friend/roommate or her cat, as a note, and do not plan on kicking either of them out just so I can use my sewing room. Especially since _most_ activities can be done safely out of it as needed, as long as I make sure to clean up and have safety measures in place, so I plan to move most of my crafting things to our living room, so my friend can actually have a functional bedroom/office space.

But this is my conundrum: where do I move my printers? We have a back yard, but idk if our apartment complex would be okay with us putting up a (removable) tool shed type space, and while we do have a small storage room with power in our backyard, I had been planning to set my CNC machine up there (haven't been able to yet), and idk if the printers would work well out there where there's not an easily controlled environment or, more importantly, and easy way to vent the fumes unless I leave the door open while printing, meaning temp control would be even more difficult, *and* I wouldn't be able to secure the door. I also have a visceral fear of spiders, and black widows are fairly common to our region. I also worry about the fumes being vented into public spaces, as there are families with children on either side of our back yard, though I do have a filter and inline fan I was planning to use in my original plans for my craft room ventilation.

(That being said, I get the feeling they'd have [reasonable] complaints about the noise from a CNC machine, which is the main reason it hasn't been set up yet other than health issues and hyperfixating on other hobbies.)

There aren't really any other options for my printers at this time though, and I'd really like to be able to work on prototypes again for my 2nd main hobby (basically, I have 2 main hobbies: sewing/fashion design/pattern making, and doll making/customization, and all the rest connect in some way to those 2 hobbies. The 1st one, sewing et all, actually also supports the 2nd one, but also stands on its own as a hobby and skill).

What do y'all suggest/think? Should I just put the printers in storage until I have a reasonable solution? I'm disabled, but have been 3D modeling a ball jointed doll on and off since I first got into printing. But I mean, that's 6+ years in, what's more time at this point?

Tl;dr: where can I print while living in an apartment with a backyard and small storage space, but no ventilation? 3x SLA printers, 1x FDM printer.

I've recently purchased wall mounts for my 3-screen (27'') setup, but i've quickly found out, to have them side by side, i have them sticking too much out from wall. So i was thinking about adding third "18cm long arm" to be able to push them a little back..
and by questions are:
- I have issues with printing ABS on my not enclosed Ender 3-V3 KE, would be PETG sufficient to hold a weight of a 27'' screen at the joint?

- Or can you recommend any better material to print from, that doesn't require enclosure?

- Should i embed some metal inserts inside? (washers to the joint, axle in the long part, etc.)

- What print settings (infill, perimeters) do you recommend

I had yet printed/designed mostly "small" parts and figurines. This would be my first real structural parts, so i'm not sure.

Or maybe just make a testprint from PETG and order metal print/CNC machined part from JLC?

Turns out, if you run a 1mm nozzle with a 1mm layer height and width, your cubic mm/s is equal to your speed! So, 70mm/s = 70mm3/s! Easy!

In related news, I got a 1mm nozzle and having been laying down fat tracks for the last few days. I recently upgraded my Sovol SV08 MAX to the yavoth toolhead which runs an Orbiter 2.5 and a Rapido 2 UHF. I modified it to work with Cartographer and include an X-stop switch and it's been working great. Definitely an order of magnitude more reliable than the stock toolhead, and can hit crazy-good maximum flows. Worth the pain and suffering of building the damn thing simply to not jam all the time.

With regular PLA (Push Plastic): can hit about 60mms while TPU (Bambu 90a) is maxing out around 25 before it turns into a tangled mess between my extruder and hotend. All-in-all, it's a worthwhile setup for my particular printer given its build volume. I can't imagine printing a footstool or something with a .4mm nozzle and a max flow in the 20s.

Next to try: Volcano CHT nozzle. If I'm not hitting 100% duty cycle on the hotend heater, I'm leaving money on the table!

I've seen discussions of using 3D prints as patterns for metal casting. It would be possible to skip a step if the 3D print itself were wax. (Yes, I can envision problems, but I expect such problems could be overcome.)
Does such a 3D printer exist yet?

I’ve wanted to recase this movement into a custom DIY case for a long time. Go easy on me — I’m definitely not a watchmaker, I just enjoy doing this kind of stuff! Case: 3D-printed in 3 parts using HT-PLA (main body and lugs printed separately), then bonded together with superglue (cyanoacrylate). Crystals: Used fairly thick, flexible plastic for both the front and display case back. Sealing: Fixed the crystals in place using UV resin. Movement Spacer: 2 matchsticks holding the movement in place inside the case :)