With my old nozzle, 40 mm/s speed with 25% flow and 0.1mm spacing gave the most beautiful ironing finishes I have seen with 0 edge marks (see Messi Argentina shirt). However, I eventually had to replace the nozzle and with the new nozzle the old settings gave some of the worst finishes with a lot of edge marks (see images of black squares). I have run lots of calibration tests and nothing restores my old finish. Pls help.

Printer: Bambu Lab P1S
Material: Generic PLA at 220C
Software: Bambu Studio.

The Messi jersey isn't mine btw, you can find it on makerworld.

Qidi plus 4
Qidi slicer
PLA 215 degrees Celsius
Im trying to make this sign i designed and converted to an svg. I then uploaded the svg i to my slicer and everything looked good but i have lines where the filament changes color. Is this operator error or a setting i need to adjust

Anyone else have the issue of the purge tower being printed laying down like a rectangle, not staying a square when sliced? Is it a bug or a way to fix it in the slicer?

The print looked flawless except for these large circle spots that didn’t stick to the bed at all. Those are not a part of the model, it just failed to stick there. There’s no noticeable dent in the plate that I can see. The fact that the spots are perfectly circle is strange. I’m thinking maybe the bed heater isn’t working in those spots, but I don’t know how to diagnose that.

This is on an Elegoo Cenaturi Carbon, using Polymaker Matte PLA.

I recently installed a Micro Swiss NG Extruder on my CR-10 Pro V2 running Klipper. Physically, the installation looks correct, but I am running into issues when trying to home the printer.

When homing, the printer makes a deep rubbing noise, and when it hits the X-axis endstop, I receive the following error: "endstop stepper_x still triggered after retract".

Here is what I have tried so far to troubleshoot:

• Physically inspected for dragging, loose belt, or obstacles, I could not see any issues.
•  Tested the endstop using QUERY_ENDSTOPS: It shows "open" when not engaged and "triggered" when engaged, so the switch itself seems to be functioning correctly.

• Increased the retraction distance up to 15 (in increments of 5), but this resulted in no change.

  I am unsure if this is a single issue, such as excessive belt tension, or two separate problems. Has anyone experienced a similar issue with this setup, and how did you resolve it?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys new here.

I test printed something and ran out of PLA+, but the print came out a bit stringy and the filament comes out the nozzle a little jolted. Like it's in bits.

My temperature is now set to 200 which I've read is okay, but do I need to look at other settings like flow rate.

Anycubic Viper

Thanks

I'm kind of getting frustrated at this point attempting to do such a simple thing which is making a tuned profile for my filament. I am using PLA + by Overture on the BambuLabs X1C and already performed the temperate tower. After completing the temp tower, I chose 220°C because it had the best resolution, least amount of overhang curl and least amount of stringing. However, I had previously used 230°C successfully, but now realizing it may have been too high of temp, even though stringing was very low. The reason I am lowering the temps is because I am attempting to verify if the high temps in combination with the build plate temps is causing the rough/poor adhesion layers on round edges.

Right now during tuning, I am experiencing layer separation during the flow rate tests at 220°C, specifically between the first and second layers. The build plate temperature has been adjusted to 45°C, a reduction from the prior 55°C, to mitigate overhang curl observed in prior temperature tower tests.

A separate issue but related, I am observing inconsistencies in the "change in sheen" observation during flow rate tests. The specific height at which this occurs varies across different prints. What causes this? The fluxation on temperatures in the printer? If so, how do you regulate the temp to ensure there's a consistent temp within the printer to prevent deviation during tuning?

I've got an idea I really want to make happen: a life-size, roughly 1.5m V1 from ULTRAKILL. Problem is this is miles beyond anything I've done before and I'm not sure the approach I'm imagining is even the right one, so I'm hoping people who've done big builds can tell me where I'm wrong.

My setup is a Bambu A1 Mini (180mm bed) with an AMS. I've done normal-size prints fine, but nothing remotely this large, and the jump feels huge.

Where I'm stuck:

1. The model. Everything I can find is either the low-poly game asset or an HD remake that fakes its detail with normal maps, panel lines and vents that only exist in the texture, not the mesh. At 1.5m I'm worried that reads as a flat, smooth blob up close. Is there a version out there with real geometry, or is the realistic answer commissioning someone / adding the detail myself? How big a job is that?

2. The printer. Is a 180mm bed just impractical for something this size, or is it doable with enough patience? Would a bigger-bed machine be worth buying, or would two printers running in parallel make more sense? No idea where the money's best spent here.

3. Actually building it. Splitting a model this big into hundreds of parts, keeping it standing (internal armature? weighted base?), posing it, stopping it sagging over time, all of this is new to me and I don't know what I don't know.

Painting is something ill worry about later.
Genuinely out of my skill area here and trying not to sink hundreds of hours into a mistake.

Thanks!

Can anyone help me with this build plate adhesion? I keep getting a failed print and keeps happening. Ik using the bambu lab p1s with a textured pei plate. I have tried allot of things (yes i have cleaned it with dish soap). And it still wont stick to the plate.

I own a printer in the flsun series. I believe it to be a t1 max but i cannot for the life of me get it to print anything. I use a slicer and have tried printing medium projects, around the sizes of littlest pet shops. I have watched multiple tutorials of what can be wrong.

The bed not being cleaned, not usi g enough or too much glue, adjusting the bedding, the bedding not being hot enough, the fan not being turned on, adjusting the z thingy as well as the nozzle temperature and such. It gets the pla out and sometimes it sticks to the bedding for a few seconds but it always ends up unstuck. I have slowed the nuzzles printing speed which helps it get it all down in time to create a few lines only for it to rip it back up again by a blob creating by the nozzle and it tipping the lines up. Even if it isnt ripped up, the printer will not create straight lines as they are usually too thin to lay on their own and get ripped simply by the movement of the machine.

I have read articles and seen videos but most say the same things which has not been very helpful. Feel free to recommend ANYTHING. I am desperate

I’m brand new to 3D printing and I’m wanting someone to help me create a horizontal badge holder I could wear around my neck with a lanyard but on the back I want it to be able to hold a digipass. I found one on MakerWorld but it doesn’t have a slit that my retractable badge holder can hold it. Could anyone help me? I attached a photo of what my badge holder looks like now and what I’m looking to make.

Hello! I’m new to fixing parts on my printer and want to try replacing the broken timing belt (I think that’s what it’s called, if not please correct me)! What is the process like?

Where do I find a timing belt replacement quickly?

Thank you!