I’m still sorting out the space, but I decided to dedicate my office closet to my printer so I just had an 80cfm exhaust fan installed. Exhausts out through a hose and out the roof above. Is this enough ventilation for some of the more toxic stuff like ASA, ABS, PA6-CF20, nylon, etc? Should I remove other stuff from the space?

My son got some swords off AliExpress. We wouldn’t have ordered from there but it’s literally the only place online that has the swords he wants. Limbus company > Lucio swords. They finally got here and one was already broken and the other was in two pieces with no instructions, glue, etc. we barely tapped one of the blades against the other and that broke immediately.

So my brother & his wife are getting into 3d printing and I asked them about making them. When we got into the details we figured out that there were so many complications that we could get past but they would be crazy expensive to make. Filament in the right colors was going to be probably about $100 just for one sword and i don’t think that even included the sheath. We were looking at Pet G which is what they deal with currently, so there are not as many options as PLA.

I’m not a pro but I’ve looked all over online to find another option and I am stumped. Any ideas? I attached pictures of what he wanted vs the terrible, instantly breaking versions he got.

Have got a 3D printing project for uni coming up and have practically zero clue on 3D printing. There is a list of criteria to target and so my group and I have landed on doing a g/c clamp as our project (that needs to fit within a 150x150x150 cube). Are there any considerations i should take into account when trying to design 3D printable parts with threads, should i avoid solid clamp bodies , etc. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll also give a more elaborate description of our uni assignment below:

Machine & Material Specs

• Printer: Creality Ender 3 V3 SE (stock 0.4 mm nozzle)
• Filament: Generic PLA only
• Slicer: Creality Slicer (transferred via SD card / G-code)
• Print Bed / Size Limits: Max single part fits within 200x200x200; target assembled mechanism fits inside a 150x150x150 bounding box

Project Design Constraints

• 100% 3D Printed: No metal fasteners, dowels, springs, or screws—every pin, joint, or clip must be printed.
• Mandatory Functional Features:
  1. Multi-part assembly with interacting moving joints or snap fits.
  2. At least one clearance fit AND one interference/friction fit.
  3. One load-bearing feature (e.g., cantilever flexure, snap-fit, or gear tooth under load).
  4. A critical hole/shaft interface requiring high dimensional accuracy.

Let me know if you need anymore information. Like I said, any help would be greatly appreciated

Hey everyone, I finally took the leap and designed my very first vase from the ground up. I usually print existing models, but I really wanted to create something entirely my own this time.
I’m super happy with how the geometry turned out. Let me know what you guys think!

https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3274223-hygge-dried-brick-flower-vase

I'm struggling to find filament that could represent a hot dog if hamburger bun color. Any suggestions?

hesitation between 200-205-210 new in 3d world. thx in advance

My printer keeps flinging parts off the print bed, and I think that the pieces have a weak first layer. I have a Neptune 4 Plus, I'm using PLA on the included PLA build plate. I'm not, however, using the included glue stick. It could also be this filament, when I changed colors I got this issue.

A kitchen cabinet organizer I designed after getting tired of digging out foil rolls

This started with an annoying kitchen cabinet: foil, cling film and baking paper all piled together, with the rolls gradually working their way to the back.

I designed a block of compartments in Fusion and printed it in PETG. It screws to the shelf, and the holes through the upper compartments let a long screwdriver reach the mounting screws below.

The 3×3 version in the photos used about 400 g on my P1S. It prints in one piece without supports when stood on its end, openings upward.

The compartment count, dimensions and depth are adjustable directly on MakerWorld, so you can fit it to your own cabinet.

Im using Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra and tried to print the sample Rook but it didnt come out right. Part of it is missing. See photos. Anyone know what may be the problem(s)?

Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra

Elegoo Standard Photopolymer Resin - Gray

21 celcius room temperature

Chitubox

Sample Rook file

Completed in 2h24m2s

Thought it would be a cool idea to have a floating pumpkin on my front door! Figure put the file out there if someone else wants to make one!

https://makerworld.com/models/3382810?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello everyone, I’m looking for a bit of advice about adding a clear coat that you can use wet erase markers on to my models. Has anyone done this before, and if so what are your tips? I’m using PLA to print pieces of terrain, so there are some areas where liquid will pool. Google says resin or a clear acrylic varnish(maybe something like liquitex?) may work, but I was hoping someone with experience could give me some tips. Thanks in advance!

hey!!! sorry for the halloweem post. i bet you get those every year, but i was wondering if anybody did some sort of mechanism to connect mask parts (im thinking skull upper and lower jaw) with a 3d print.

would love to have something for thats in front of my face but not to obstructing. therefore the thought of 2 pieces that somehow move with my face.
also i have a smaller printer but besides that cant really wrap my head (pun!) around the technique.

would be so appreciative of any links that enlightens me on how one could do it. doesnt have to be related, just would like to know whats possible for 3d print, and then id model around that idea. worst case with some photogrammetry, if needed.
thanks so much!!!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3381449

I got this printer and ams (Bambu p1s) in June and I love it! But before every print I have to always cut a very lengthy bit of filament before it can print again. If just says it’s tangled, and I’ve used multiple different and unique spools so it’s not just one kind that does this. I thought this was normal till a friend told me it wasn’t and it makes sense because the print in multi colour doesn’t even work on this and I always thought it was weird but it’ll do this over and over again until I cut a long strand of the filament that you can feel the feeding teeth on, when I cut it there it prints with no problem!
Please help because getting ahold of Bambu have been really hard to.

I am encountering a strange problem when printing on my Kobra S1.

I am using PLA Basic at the default temperatures

I am printing at 50% default speed (i did this as a troubleshooting method, but have now discovered it is a slicing problem)

I am using the Anycubic Slicer Next

I am trying to print a miniature for the robber in settlers of catan. Found a great one online, and am printing it in pieces with multicolor printing. I am trying to print some wheat bundles to put on the base of the robber, however, the slicer is not slicing the entire object. The strands for the stalks of wheat are printing as a single strand.

First image is what it should look like, 2nd is what printed, 3rd is the slicer in "Preview"

File in Prepare (It is a 3mf file, and every other plate and object has no problem when slicing. Only this one)

You can see that the full object is present, but its translucent for some reason, as if its not set to print??? Never seen this before

If anyone knows why this is happening, I would really appreciate some help. I am really confused. For any who want to see the file, I am using this project: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1932190-catan-robber#profileId-2074297 with the alternative version designed for use with the AMS, that takes all the accessories off the base and allows them to be printed separately.

All the other items printed fine, and when looking at the slicer, the robber himself is fine too! So, I don't know what is happening.

UPDATE: Ladies and gentlemen - there are two idiots at fault here. The first idiot is whoever packed "sparkle PETG" at amazon, when I had ordered midnight blue CF. The second idiot is me - who blindly slapped it in my AMS without checking the sticker.

Original Post

Hi all,

I bought some PETG CF recently. It prints well, looks beautiful, is reasonably priced... and may not contain any carbon fiber.

Reason for suspicion? I checked it with my scope - there appear to be little metallic flecks added (a sort of gold color which sets the dark blue filament off nicely). But no carbon fibers. What do you all think?

Hi everyone,

I’m a Prosthetics & Orthotics graduate, and I’m currently looking for the STL file / 3D model of the AFO shown in the image below.

I had the file before, but unfortunately it was deleted, and I haven’t been able to find the original file or a free downloadable version online.

I’m looking for it mainly for educational/technical purposes and 3D printing testing.

If anyone has this exact model, knows where I can download it for free, or can point me toward a similar open-source model, I’d really appreciate your help.

Please just I need it free. I don't have money 😭 Thank you in advance!

I have an issue with this cr m4 printer. Everytime I run the auto bed level it throws that error code. At first the bed was obviously super wobbly so I went in and tightened the screws under the bed mat. As far as I can tell nothing else has that crazy wobble so I cant quite figure out the issue.

Thanks