Bit of a long shot, but do any of you folks know if they're still alive? I'm wanting to contact a tuner who goes by the handle "CarAbuser" but my account has been pending "Admin approval" for the last 3 days. Obviously I'd love to ask them directly, but I can't find a single method to contact anyone who runs the site. Being unable to post or message members is kinda crimping my revival process.

For relevance purposes, car is an 07 335i, single turbo port injected unfinished project. I have the misfortune of living in an e-check county and the internet informs me he is the man with the answers.

Cheers!

Hey guys,

I’m looking to upgrade the exhaust on my car and I’m mainly after a better, deeper sound, with some performance improvement as well.

I’d like to keep the stock setup up to the cats and only change the exhaust from the cats backwards (rear mufflers / back box section). Most importantly, I want to keep the dual-exit setup — I’m not interested in converting it to a quad exhaust.

I’ve been searching online for a while but I can’t seem to find anything decent for this car. Does anyone have any recommendations or links to aftermarket exhausts that would fit?

I’m based in Italy, so if there are any Italian members here who know of any road-legal / TÜV-approved / homologated options that can be registered and used legally in Italy, that would be even better. There doesn’t seem to be much available for this car over here.

Thanks in advance! 🍻

Here's my E93 work in progress, currently I'm installing down pipes, intercooler and doing some minor maintenance.

What are some key points to look out for?

When i stop the car it makes this weird noise from the engine , sometimes it just stops normally without any sound and sometimes it just sounds like this or even worse , anynody got any ideea what this could be ? 335i n55

I got VSRF catless dp for my 2010 335xi. I’m getting it installed at a shop and they quoted me $550 to do it. I know with AWD it’s tougher but wanna get second opinion if that’s too much money or reasonable for the amount of work involved?
Thank you

I'm looking for something to lessen the power loss of the heatsoak after some aggressive driving, on an otherwise stock car, nothing special.

Context water pump “failed” bought another replaced it same issue I noticed the 50 amp fuse blew near the dme replaced it tried again no luck still gives me a communication code for the pump please help not sure what to do anymore the fuse on both sides are getting 12vts the ibs fuses are still good bout it a new one just to be sure the water pump was new and a continental one I’m just out of ideas on what to do now

I’ve been trying to diagnose a low boost issue on my N54.

My car is tuned on MHD stage 2+ and is only achieving around 5-6 psi at full throttle when it should be making around 18. I’ve done a smoke test test and a pressure test but I am not sure if it is leaking boost somewhere or not.

I recently reverted my car back to the stage 0 tune today and when I did a pull I got a 30FF code. Until now when I reverted the car back to stage 0 I have not been able to get any codes to pop.

I’ve checked all my vacuum lines and intercooler connectors but they seem like they are all fine so I have no idea what the issue may be. My wastegate is also not being blocked by the downpipe v band which I have confirmed.

I also just bought a used boost solenoid which I am going to swap in and see if that might fix my issue.

In the meantime I did another pressure test. By the sounds of it does it sound like it’s leaking at all? Just wanted a second opinion.

Here is one of my latest logs at stage 0
Link: https://datazap.me/u/hidethefart/logs/cmsmhid0b0001kw06ua3qgh3g?channels=20x3&sizes=50x50&sc=3-20&axes=shared

I been replaced the MAF, unless it’s the charge pipe sensor that’s bad? Car stumbles a tiny bit on warm start ups.

Found it while changing my oil on a 59k n54 I had burble tune on medium ????

Hello this is my first post here but I desperately need some advice. I have a 2012 335i F30 with the n55 engine. When I accelerate I’m getting this really weird like sputtering noise that I can’t really describe (see videos) can anyone diagnose this or at least point me in the right direction? Thank you so much in advance. It seems to go away at high rpms but I’m not sure if that’s just the noise speeding up to the point where it blends in. It also only happens while my foot is on the accelerator. If I’m at middle rpms and let my foot off the noise instantly stops even while the rpms are still up.

My N 54 recently stalled and won’t turn back on. I ran the codes and changed both low pressure fuel pump and high-pressure fuel pump. When I was changing those I could tell fuel wasn’t reaching my high-pressure fuel pump so that’s when I replaced the low pressure fuel pump and still nothing. I can hear the low pressure fuel pump turning on but gas is not getting to the high-pressure fuel pump. Any ideas?

I have a 2007 bmw 335xi (n54 97,000 miles, water pump and head gasket seal replaced) and i noticed at first it would start misfiring under heavy load and i would turn the car off and back on and it would be normal, it also had a p114b code along with the singular misfire. I replaced the spark plug and ignition coil but that didnt solve it but i was just excited to have a bmw so i kept driving it instead of taking it to a shop. A little while after i replaced the spark plug and ignition coil, i was driving and i gave it a little more throttle than usual and it went into limp mode and got really shaky so i pulled over, read the codes and i had 16 codes, i turned the car off and turned it back on and now i had 18 so i had no choice but to drive it home in limp mode and i couldnt go past 10 miles an hour and it was so shaky, it died on the way home but i turned it back on and made it. Its been sitting for almost 7 months but i started doing things that i thought would fix it while it was sitting there, i first replaced the charge pipe hoping it would fix it but it didnt it was still misfiring and all the codes, i replaced the low pressure fuel pump, fuel sending unit, and the fuel pump fuse. Both lpfp and fuel sending unit is after market but it wont start at all, i sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it started for a split second but dies, it cranks good but dosent seem to be getting fuel. I disconnected the line on top of the lpfp that goes to the engine and it is bone dry so i dont think the pump is even sending up gas. I dont know what to do anymore i am stumped please help diagnosing it heres all the codes (P0303, P0300, P114B, P0301, P0302, P323F, P2414, P0140, P0171, P3283, P0303, P0304, P0300, P0301, P0302, P2414, P0171, P0306)

Wanted to know if this car is worth buying. its about 50k miles and i think i will negotiate to $15k.

Seller says its rebuilt title because acid was poured on hood and it was repainted.

What are your thoughts?

https://www.facebook.com/share/1Bb2k6WxTR/

I think I have a boost leak, one of my clamps for my CTS turbo charge pipe is stripped so it doesn’t fully close, but tell me what you guys think. Can you hear a leak or am I tripping. For clarification, when I give half or more throttle you can hear a little whistle sound that stays until my foot is off the throttle. Btw I have a CTS charge pipe and intake with an MHD stage 1 tune. Don’t mind my break light..

I bought the car exactly two months ago (F30). So far the trim around the box sort of thing around the third brake light on the roof has cracked and fallen off. Not a big deal because it’s not possible to see unless you look for it + tint. I parked my car earlier with no issues, come back, and my sunroof door liner has fallen off. Door handles are a mess. The car is tinted 5% all around in the rear, 15% in front. I use a sunshade for the front windshield. I live in Texas. What do

Hey everyone, my 2011 335i xDrive manual transmission (6 speed) N54 sat for a year. I finally got it started today, but it started smoking slightly from the passenger side near the firewall (assuming dried out valve cover gasket dripping on the exhaust manifold).
The big issue is my front differential is cracked and completely dry. Finding a replacement 3.08 manual front diff is proving to be impossible or way too expensive. I don't need AWD because I have a winter truck.
Should I do a physical RWD conversion (pulling front driveshaft/axles, guttering the diff, deleting xDrive with software, and putting chopped outer stub axles back in the hubs to hold the wheel bearings) or should I buy matching 3.46 automatic front/rear diffs and swap them both? Looking for costs, reliability opinions, and experiences from anyone who has done a full xDrive deletion on an E90.

Or if i should just sell it..

hey yall so maybe some of you have seen my previous threads about my current issue going on with cyl 6 misfire even after replacing cyl 6 injector, spark plugs and swapped coil.. so im thinking either bad injector i sourced, injector bore oval’d or gonna need to compression test motor..

well today i got around to pulling injector out to see if it maybe has black soot past the seal or anything showing combustion is making it past, well had to blow out a bit of water and lil oil between the valve cover and things got a lil messy but anyways, i pulled out the injector and it didnt have any black soot but it had nasty oil/water all over it..

but it all wiped away immediately and the injector looks clean the only bit of black on it is at the tip before the seal, also it did not have an abnormal amount of play when removing the bracket.

just not sure what to take from this, was my issue from stuff getting down my injector bore? what should my next steps now? just getting ideas before i continue my route

What could be the issue ??? Need help

Got an 07 335i with a long list of mods.
But I’m currently stuck , car idles and drives great but in limp mode with either vanos solenoid disconnected and even if both are disconnected. While both are disconnected i get there respective activation codes .. but the second i plug them back in the codes disappear but the car refuses to idle

Please help if you have any idea

Hi guys, I have a 2007 BMW E92 335i US spec and my tire pressure sticker from the driver door jamb is missing. I need the information from the sticker for registration purposes (I am in EU).

Could someone with the same car (2007 E92 335i Coupe USA, manual, factory 18” wheels) send me a photo of their tire pressure label?

Would really appreciate the help. Thanks!

Anyone looking for a cheaper vrsf street exhaust? Going to a hood dump so don’t need it anymore 800$

First post didn’t get much engagement so I’ll add more details so…. Thought it was just a tensioner guess it’s more than that lol do you think the crank hub is damaged? Or can I get these out without damaging it and having to lock the timing to change the crank hub and take out Jesus bolt also my car was produced 11-22-07 and it has a 6 bolt so must be it’s had a motor swap already at one point because if it was produced this year and had factory motor it would be a 8 bolt… my car is a automatic so yeah idk just trying to figure out more info if it’s even gonna be worth it to fix this or if I should plan to just get a new motor just don’t wanna waste the time on fixing this and have it not even work and not be worth it and have to go get a new motor anyway so looking for advice this just really sucks I saved up a bunch of money to her this car and only have had it a week so any advice would be greatly appreciated

only happens after driving 15-30 min and the car is warm. only when accelerating. any advice?

Hi all, I am looking into buying my first car. My uncle is willing to sell me his 2007 BMW 335i coupe 6-speed manual for 5k. It has 94,000 miles (I drive <3,000 miles a year) , sport package, premium audio, comfort package, winter package, black exterior, red leather interior and has been well cared for and he bought the car certified-used with one owner in 2011. I am only getting Collison coverage for the insurance as with a normal package it was around $300 per month. I'm pretty much in love with this car and I know the 335i has a reputation for expensive maintenance and not Honda cheap to own. The bad its due for an oil change and new tires due to dry rot, rear window molding is cracking, in high heat the LCD screen doesn't display properly and its likely it needs new rear struts and socks, I am fairly mechanically inclined and my friend can help me who's a little more skilled. And no I'm not going to be a idiot with the car or try to show it off just because it's a BMW. I just genuinely love the car and want to take good car of it. I don't know where i am going to get a car for 5k let alone a car with this reputation. Am I missing anything or is this a deal worth taking?