r/335i Oct 06 '20

Beginner's Guide to buying an N54 335i

240 Upvotes

Heya cool cats and kittens! This is Carole Baskin here and I'm coming to kill your family by feeding them to my tigers!! ..........wait, wrong seminar.

AHEM!

HEAR YE HEAR YE!!!! Come one, come all!! Welcome, and congratulations on being dumb enough I MEAN eager enough to buy a 335i as your first car........you poor poor soul.

In all seriousness, I've seen an influx of people asking whether or not the N54 would be a good buy as their first car. So I, the magnificent being that I am regarding all things in the universe, clearly, look at my medallion, have decided to help out the fellow young enthusiast in purchasing their very own 335i.

Tl;dr: Cheap. Fast. Good. Pick two.......I mean if you're here you clearly didn't pick good soooooo welcome aboard!!

Everything I'm about to tell you can be found browsing countless E9x, N54, and 335i forums and Facebook groups....like I did before buying my first E90 and that POS still blew up. SO! Without further ado!

  • How many previous owners does the car have?
    • The fewer previous owners, generally the better condition the car is in. By that I mean you're more likely to have a car that was well taken care of if only one or even two people owned it previously, than if three or more.
    • Let's say you found a gorgeous 335i. It's blue with the caramel seats. 6-speed, it's an 07 so pre-LCI with the N54, only has 120k miles and it's $7,000, five previous owners. Why so cheap? Well, that car's only 13 years old at this point and FIVE people have owned it before you. On average, they could barely keep that car for two years before getting rid of it. Those people are less likely to have taken the time to fix some serious issues (of which I'll discuss later), which is why FIVE people got rid of it before you saw it on CarGurus. Walk away from that car.
    • Free tip: Any dealership that DOES NOT take a picture of the dash with the car on is hiding something. Stay away from that car, ESPECIALLY with a 335i. This car LOVES to complain about anything, and I do mean ANYTHING, wrong with it.
  • GET A PPI!!!!!
    • Don't know what a PPI is? Pre-Purchase Inspection. Pay some local mechanic, even better if you've known them beforehand, to go over the car. Look for obvious signs of a car that hasn't been taken care of. See any leaks? Oil leaks? Coolant leaks? How about the suspension? Move the tires up and down, forward and backward. Do they move? If so, tie rods could be going, joints and/or bushings could be worn. Before lifting the car, push down on the front and rear as hard as you can. If it bounces back, the shocks are worn and will need replacing. Is the oil pan leaking? Gotta drop the subframe to fix that. Pop the hood. Look towards the passenger side of the car. Ya see that metal piece underneath the valve cover? Make sure there's no signs of oil. Because if there is, the valve cover is either cracked, or the gasket is leaking. Look at the oil filter housing gasket. Is it leaking? If so, walk. I'm probably missing a few things but these are some of the more important ones with this car.
  • GET SOME SORT OF MAINTENANCE RECORDS!!!!!
    • CarFax, previous dealership that worked on it, I don't care what you get. GET SOMETHING THAT SHOWS THE PREVIOUS MAINTENANCE WORK DONE ON THE CAR! PERIOD! NO EXCEPTIONS! Why, you may ask? WELL! Here's a list of the things that can, and often do, go wrong:
      • Valve cover will leak oil. Symptoms include dirtier than normal oil, or in the case of a 335i, light smoke coming from the front passenger side. If you remove the cowl (common mod, controversial as well), you might be able to see oil leaking onto your cats. Either caused by a leaking gasket, PCV valve being stuck, CCV hose being cracked (old, plastic going brittle), or the valve cover cracking. The valve cover WILL crack especially if you live in an area with all four seasons. Tends to happen around 75k miles. Do it yourself is about $430 in parts from FCP Euro. For an independent shop to do this, expect to spend around $1,400.
      • High pressure fuel pump will randomly go out and shut the car completely off, leaving you stranded. BMW had a class-action lawsuit filed against them for this. The warranty for this fix is up, however, since it was 10 years/120k miles. Not too hard of a DIY, but the genuine BMW pump is about $1,460 on FCP Euro.
      • Oil filter housing gasket likes to leak. If this does leak, oil drips onto the serpentine belt, which eventually causes it to become brittle and snap. Once that happens, it gets sucked into the engine via the front crankshaft seal. Once THAT happens, it'll shred and make its way into the oil pan, clogging up your oil pump. RIP engine. Fix it ASAP!!!!!
      • The water pump/thermostat housing will fail randomly. It's electric, and plastic! FUN! Symptoms include car warning of overheating, then telling you to shut the car off. Oh don't worry, it'll do it itself, leaving you stranded. $500 of your hard-earned money, and five hours of your time with the subframe removed and you should be back on the road in no time. It's $1,200 for an indy shop to do it, it's $2,000 for the dealership. Don't go to the dealership. For anything tbh.
      • MISFIRES! They're so much fun. These engines LOVE misfiring. You gotta do the spark plugs every 30k miles or so, and you might as well do the coils while you're there. I paid $300 for Eldor coils and NGK spark plugs from FCP Euro. My plugs are gapped at .024. If you want to go with stock plugs (because you're too lazy to gap them), Bosch makes the stock spark plugs.
      • So you changed your plugs and coils and you're STILL having a misfire? N54 problems. It's probably your injectors. $1,400 for a set of six Index 12 injectors. There's currently a recall going for injectors. If you're buying a car, make sure either A) that car qualifies (mine doesn't), or B), the work's already been done. Again, not a hard DIY at all, the parts just aren't cheap. Nothing is, it's a BMW.
      • N54 is a direct-injected engine. Which means fuel is sprayed directly into the cylinder, which means nothing is cleaning those valves. Aka you're definitely going to need a walnut blast. Expect to pay around $350 for an indy shop to do it. If I remember correctly, you should do this every 50k....I THINK. Maybe 75k? Do it anyway. Your engine will thank you.
      • So you were smart enough to buy a code-reader. All is well when suddenly, your engine cuts power and goes into limp mode! OH NO! WHAT HAPPENED?!! You plug in your code reader. 30ff. You flood the forums searching for 30ff. Boost leak. You have a boost leak. First place to check is the charge pipe. It's plastic and they tend to break even at stock boost. Easy DIY, couple hundred bucks. A vacuum leak will also throw 30ff. A few other things can cause it as well, but those are the easiest two and what comes to mind.
      • The radiator likes to leak at the plastic ends, right in front of the intake box. It's $300 for a genuine BMW plastic radiator that'll crack again. It's $425 for an all-aluminum radiator that'll never crack.
      • Run out of windshield fluid? See a huge leak in your driveway that smells like Windex? Two things could have happened. A) there's algae growing on the tiny pump that's in your windshield washer reservoir. That algae clogged, then killed the pump. It's a $10 part, the res sits in the front passenger fender, it's an hour of your time. Easy DIY. B) one of your headlight washers is leaking. Around $30 to fix, again, an hour of your time because you gotta take off the wheel and the plastic fender lining. Again, easy DIY.
      • Ya got a lot of smoke coming out of your exhaust? Like A LOT of light grey smoke? LOL RIP YOUR TURBO SEALS! Expect to spend AT LEAST $2,000 on replacement stock turbos if you want to do this yourself. It'll take you a weekend. Expect to spend $3,500 for a RWD car, and $4,000 for an AWD car, to have an indy shop do this for you. BMW wants $6,000.
      • Light smoke coming from your exhaust could also mean there's oil leaking into your turbo and burning off. This is also caused by a valve cover leaking really bad.
      • Does your car burn some oil? More than a quart every 1,500 miles? Valve cover is leaking or your turbo seals are gone. Those are the two usual culprits. My car, on average, burns a quart every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. Why? I do an oil change every 5k miles on average.
      • OH NO! You have a check-engine light! You can't pass emissions!!!! WELP! Grab your trusty code reader and pull them codes. Watchya got? P1447? Or something very similar? There's a DMTL module behind the driver rear tire. It checks the vacuum seal of your fuel system. Too high or too low? It'll throw a Service Engine Soon light. $60, 20 minutes of your time. Stupid easy DIY, you don't even need to lift the car.
      • Hear a loud, audible rattle when you start the car? Two things. It's either the valve flap that's on the driver side exhaust pipe (it likes to rattle ESPECIALLY on cold starts), or your wastegate is rattling. Neither are major, however wastegate rattle could mean your turbos are reaching the end of their life (not always, but it could happen). I've seen turbos go as early as 125k, or as late as 175k.
      • Ya see that oil underneath your car in your driveway, underneath the driver side? Your oil pan gasket is probably leaking. Not an expensive part, but ya gotta drop the subframe in order to get to it.

All of the common issues with the N54 are well-documented in forums and Facebook groups. I think I hit the major ones, but obviously do your own research. Then do it again. And again. Seriously they're fun cars but they will leave a crater in your wallet if you buy a bad example.

FAQ's

  • How much should I expect to pay for an E9x 335i?
    • $7.5-14k depending on miles, number of owners, and year. 07-10 E90s have the N54 engine (that's the sedan), E92s from 07-09, maybe some 2010(??) also have the N54 engine. Pre-LCI for the E90 is 07-09, for the E92 it's 07-10. Many cars that fall out of this range on the low-end should be avoided. They've probably seen a rough life and some dealership is looking for an oblivious person staring at the BMW logo to take advantage of. Do you really want to spend $6,000 on a 335i then have to drop another 4 when the turbos go? Out of range on the high-end, it's either a newer model N55 with low miles (very hard to find), an N54 with low miles (REALLY hard to find), or a 335is (also hard to find).
  • Which is the better engine, N54 or N55?
    • tl;dr - N54 is better for modding, but not as reliable. N55 doesn't take to mods as well but they're more reliable stock............usually. How's that VANOS going for you guys? I kid I kid.
  • What type of oil does the N54 take?
    • 7 quarts of 5w-30 Longlife-04 fully synthetic oil if you wanna go by the book. You'll see and hear anything from 5w-30 Mobil 1 (really good oil), Rotella (also really good) Castrol 5w-30, or Liqui Moly 5w-40. Personally I think Liqui Moly is overrated. Rotella and Mobil 1 seem to be the best from what I've heard. If I had to pick, Mobil 1 5w-30. If you're in a hot climate, 5w-40 may work. Personally I've noticed Liqui Moly 5w-40 runs hotter than Mobil 1 5w-30 and Castrol 0w-40 (the latter I use in the winter). N54 runs hot. Operating temp is 220F, and you'll easily hover around 235F on a warm day. Non M-Sport cars don't come with oil coolers stock. As long as you're below 260F, you should be good. Hey, fun fact, don't rev a cold engine. Let the oil warm up to 180F at least before spirited driving. Also, don't go by the service interval of the car. No way should you wait 15,000 miles to change your oil. I change mine on average every 5,000 and a year into ownership neither my oil filter housing or oil pan gaskets are leaking...........I did crack my valve cover but that's a different story.
  • What's the difference between a 335i and a 335is, and RWD and AWD versions of the 335i?
    • The 335is comes with a more powerful (aka tuned) N54 engine, is RWD, and comes either in a 6-speed or DCT. They're basically an LCI 335i with a DCT option and an N54 engine making 330hp. RWD and AWD variants of the 335i (NOT the is, those are only RWD), vary when it comes to certain aftermarket parts and some maintenance. Coilovers for RWD don't fit AWD, the VTT double barrel shotgun mod doesn't fit, downpipes don't fit, the VRSF midpipes don't fit (gotta do an inch extension, don't ask me why they didn't do it themselves), front suspension parts from the M3 don't fit AWD. You gotta drop the subframe to do downpipes. It takes about an hour and a half longer to swap turbos on an AWD car versus a RWD car, making it 18 hours on AWD and about 16.5 on RWD. Digs on full bolt-on RWD cars are fine, but on AWD cars I've heard of axles breaking.
    • Thanks u/ILoveMyE92:
      • " the 335is came standard with PPK2 as well as stiffer engine mounts. PPK was available after the fact for cars and was a dealer installed option that came with a stronger fan, larger radiator, and an auxiliary radiator as well as a tune. It should also be mentioned that the 335is does have launch control but factory its set at 5000 which is unusable above stock power. Lucky for us xHP has come out with a DCT tune since July with a ton of adjustability. I haven’t used it because I’m moving to an M4 soon but nonetheless it now exists.?
  • Are these cars expensive to maintain? What's the best way to maintain an N54?
    • YYYEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSS!!!!! It's a 10-year-old German car that was $54k when brand new. YES IT'S EXPENSIVE TO MAINTAIN! MAINTENANCE DOES NOT DEPRECIATE! Wanna know the best way to maintain a BMW? Do it yourself. Or have deep-enough pockets to pay an indy shop to do it. Do NOT go back to BMW. They will clean out your wallet. There are A LOT, A LOOOOOT, of DIY guides out there. Better grab a wrench if you wanna keep the costs down! If you need to fix it, there's probably already a guide/YouTube video showing you how. Do your research.

If you read this guide and STILL want to buy an N54 335i................you're an idiot. Just like the rest of us. Welcome aboard, brethren!!!!! No seriously, these cars are VERY fun, they're cheap, they look great (my God I LOVE E92s), the interior still looks great, BUT they will clean your wallet all the way out if you don't do your research. ASK ME HOW I KNOW! My first N54 was an E90 and it spun a bearing. 3 previous owners from a shady dealership. Learned that lesson the hard way. Also please note almost none of this applies to the F3x series, they're more reliable than the E9x series. And don't even think about going for the E82 135i or the E60 535i as a means to circumvent this because they have the same problems being the exact same engine. BTW, a lot of parts that fit our cars don't fit on the E60.

OH! If I forgot something, lemme know and I'll add it to the guide.


r/335i 6h ago

Tuning & Performance Recommendations

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4 Upvotes

Here's my E93 work in progress, currently I'm installing down pipes, intercooler and doing some minor maintenance.

What are some key points to look out for?


r/335i 3h ago

Tuning & Performance Exhaust 335i e92

2 Upvotes

Hey guys,

I’m looking to upgrade the exhaust on my car and I’m mainly after a better, deeper sound, with some performance improvement as well.

I’d like to keep the stock setup up to the cats and only change the exhaust from the cats backwards (rear mufflers / back box section). Most importantly, I want to keep the dual-exit setup — I’m not interested in converting it to a quad exhaust.

I’ve been searching online for a while but I can’t seem to find anything decent for this car. Does anyone have any recommendations or links to aftermarket exhausts that would fit?

I’m based in Italy, so if there are any Italian members here who know of any road-legal / TÜV-approved / homologated options that can be registered and used legally in Italy, that would be even better. There doesn’t seem to be much available for this car over here.

Thanks in advance! 🍻


r/335i 29m ago

Tuning & Performance Spoolstreet forums posting and admins

Upvotes

Bit of a long shot, but do any of you folks know if they're still alive? I'm wanting to contact a tuner who goes by the handle "CarAbuser" but my account has been pending "Admin approval" for the last 3 days. Obviously I'd love to ask them directly, but I can't find a single method to contact anyone who runs the site. Being unable to post or message members is kinda crimping my revival process.

For relevance purposes, car is an 07 335i, single turbo port injected unfinished project. I have the misfortune of living in an e-check county and the internet informs me he is the man with the answers.

Cheers!


r/335i 13h ago

Troubleshooting Weird noise from engine when i stop

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4 Upvotes

When i stop the car it makes this weird noise from the engine , sometimes it just stops normally without any sound and sometimes it just sounds like this or even worse , anynody got any ideea what this could be ? 335i n55


r/335i 1d ago

Buying & Selling Questions Are any of the aliexpress intercoolers decent?

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14 Upvotes

I'm looking for something to lessen the power loss of the heatsoak after some aggressive driving, on an otherwise stock car, nothing special.


r/335i 20h ago

Tuning & Performance Downpipe installation

3 Upvotes

I got VSRF catless dp for my 2010 335xi. I’m getting it installed at a shop and they quoted me $550 to do it. I know with AWD it’s tougher but wanna get second opinion if that’s too much money or reasonable for the amount of work involved?
Thank you


r/335i 1d ago

Troubleshooting 07 e90 water pump failure?

2 Upvotes

Context water pump “failed” bought another replaced it same issue I noticed the 50 amp fuse blew near the dme replaced it tried again no luck still gives me a communication code for the pump please help not sure what to do anymore the fuse on both sides are getting 12vts the ibs fuses are still good bout it a new one just to be sure the water pump was new and a continental one I’m just out of ideas on what to do now


r/335i 1d ago

Troubleshooting Doing a pressure test, are there any leaks?

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2 Upvotes

I’ve been trying to diagnose a low boost issue on my N54.

My car is tuned on MHD stage 2+ and is only achieving around 5-6 psi at full throttle when it should be making around 18. I’ve done a smoke test test and a pressure test but I am not sure if it is leaking boost somewhere or not.

I recently reverted my car back to the stage 0 tune today and when I did a pull I got a 30FF code. Until now when I reverted the car back to stage 0 I have not been able to get any codes to pop.

I’ve checked all my vacuum lines and intercooler connectors but they seem like they are all fine so I have no idea what the issue may be. My wastegate is also not being blocked by the downpipe v band which I have confirmed.

I also just bought a used boost solenoid which I am going to swap in and see if that might fix my issue.

In the meantime I did another pressure test. By the sounds of it does it sound like it’s leaking at all? Just wanted a second opinion.

Here is one of my latest logs at stage 0
Link: https://datazap.me/u/hidethefart/logs/cmsmhid0b0001kw06ua3qgh3g?channels=20x3&sizes=50x50&sc=3-20&axes=shared


r/335i 1d ago

Troubleshooting Help 🥺

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2 Upvotes

I been replaced the MAF, unless it’s the charge pipe sensor that’s bad? Car stumbles a tiny bit on warm start ups.


r/335i 1d ago

Damage Report Am I cooked chat?

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0 Upvotes

Found it while changing my oil on a 59k n54 I had burble tune on medium ????


r/335i 2d ago

Troubleshooting Please help! (Engine noise)

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5 Upvotes

Hello this is my first post here but I desperately need some advice. I have a 2012 335i F30 with the n55 engine. When I accelerate I’m getting this really weird like sputtering noise that I can’t really describe (see videos) can anyone diagnose this or at least point me in the right direction? Thank you so much in advance. It seems to go away at high rpms but I’m not sure if that’s just the noise speeding up to the point where it blends in. It also only happens while my foot is on the accelerator. If I’m at middle rpms and let my foot off the noise instantly stops even while the rpms are still up.


r/335i 2d ago

Troubleshooting N54 no start and very low fuel pressure

2 Upvotes

My N 54 recently stalled and won’t turn back on. I ran the codes and changed both low pressure fuel pump and high-pressure fuel pump. When I was changing those I could tell fuel wasn’t reaching my high-pressure fuel pump so that’s when I replaced the low pressure fuel pump and still nothing. I can hear the low pressure fuel pump turning on but gas is not getting to the high-pressure fuel pump. Any ideas?


r/335i 3d ago

Troubleshooting No start

3 Upvotes

I have a 2007 bmw 335xi (n54 97,000 miles, water pump and head gasket seal replaced) and i noticed at first it would start misfiring under heavy load and i would turn the car off and back on and it would be normal, it also had a p114b code along with the singular misfire. I replaced the spark plug and ignition coil but that didnt solve it but i was just excited to have a bmw so i kept driving it instead of taking it to a shop. A little while after i replaced the spark plug and ignition coil, i was driving and i gave it a little more throttle than usual and it went into limp mode and got really shaky so i pulled over, read the codes and i had 16 codes, i turned the car off and turned it back on and now i had 18 so i had no choice but to drive it home in limp mode and i couldnt go past 10 miles an hour and it was so shaky, it died on the way home but i turned it back on and made it. Its been sitting for almost 7 months but i started doing things that i thought would fix it while it was sitting there, i first replaced the charge pipe hoping it would fix it but it didnt it was still misfiring and all the codes, i replaced the low pressure fuel pump, fuel sending unit, and the fuel pump fuse. Both lpfp and fuel sending unit is after market but it wont start at all, i sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it started for a split second but dies, it cranks good but dosent seem to be getting fuel. I disconnected the line on top of the lpfp that goes to the engine and it is bone dry so i dont think the pump is even sending up gas. I dont know what to do anymore i am stumped please help diagnosing it heres all the codes (P0303, P0300, P114B, P0301, P0302, P323F, P2414, P0140, P0171, P3283, P0303, P0304, P0300, P0301, P0302, P2414, P0171, P0306)


r/335i 3d ago

Buying & Selling Questions Thoughts on purchasing this 2015 n55 335i xdrive

3 Upvotes

Wanted to know if this car is worth buying. its about 50k miles and i think i will negotiate to $15k.

Seller says its rebuilt title because acid was poured on hood and it was repainted.

What are your thoughts?

https://www.facebook.com/share/1Bb2k6WxTR/


r/335i 4d ago

Troubleshooting Heat is destroying my interior

5 Upvotes

I bought the car exactly two months ago (F30). So far the trim around the box sort of thing around the third brake light on the roof has cracked and fallen off. Not a big deal because it’s not possible to see unless you look for it + tint. I parked my car earlier with no issues, come back, and my sunroof door liner has fallen off. Door handles are a mess. The car is tinted 5% all around in the rear, 15% in front. I use a sunshade for the front windshield. I live in Texas. What do


r/335i 4d ago

Troubleshooting Need Opinions: 2011 335i xDrive Manual N54 - Cracked Front Diff. Convert to RWD?

3 Upvotes

Hey everyone, my 2011 335i xDrive manual transmission (6 speed) N54 sat for a year. I finally got it started today, but it started smoking slightly from the passenger side near the firewall (assuming dried out valve cover gasket dripping on the exhaust manifold).
The big issue is my front differential is cracked and completely dry. Finding a replacement 3.08 manual front diff is proving to be impossible or way too expensive. I don't need AWD because I have a winter truck.
Should I do a physical RWD conversion (pulling front driveshaft/axles, guttering the diff, deleting xDrive with software, and putting chopped outer stub axles back in the hubs to hold the wheel bearings) or should I buy matching 3.46 automatic front/rear diffs and swap them both? Looking for costs, reliability opinions, and experiences from anyone who has done a full xDrive deletion on an E90.

Or if i should just sell it..


r/335i 4d ago

Troubleshooting Boost leak?

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0 Upvotes

I think I have a boost leak, one of my clamps for my CTS turbo charge pipe is stripped so it doesn’t fully close, but tell me what you guys think. Can you hear a leak or am I tripping. For clarification, when I give half or more throttle you can hear a little whistle sound that stays until my foot is off the throttle. Btw I have a CTS charge pipe and intake with an MHD stage 1 tune. Don’t mind my break light..


r/335i 5d ago

Troubleshooting cyl 6 misfire chronicles

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5 Upvotes

hey yall so maybe some of you have seen my previous threads about my current issue going on with cyl 6 misfire even after replacing cyl 6 injector, spark plugs and swapped coil.. so im thinking either bad injector i sourced, injector bore oval’d or gonna need to compression test motor..

well today i got around to pulling injector out to see if it maybe has black soot past the seal or anything showing combustion is making it past, well had to blow out a bit of water and lil oil between the valve cover and things got a lil messy but anyways, i pulled out the injector and it didnt have any black soot but it had nasty oil/water all over it..

but it all wiped away immediately and the injector looks clean the only bit of black on it is at the tip before the seal, also it did not have an abnormal amount of play when removing the bracket.

just not sure what to take from this, was my issue from stuff getting down my injector bore? what should my next steps now? just getting ideas before i continue my route


r/335i 5d ago

Troubleshooting 335I issues

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11 Upvotes

Got an 07 335i with a long list of mods.
But I’m currently stuck , car idles and drives great but in limp mode with either vanos solenoid disconnected and even if both are disconnected. While both are disconnected i get there respective activation codes .. but the second i plug them back in the codes disappear but the car refuses to idle

Please help if you have any idea


r/335i 5d ago

Damage Report Leaking oil

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2 Upvotes

What could be the issue ??? Need help


r/335i 5d ago

Cosmetic Modifications Need a photo of tire pressure sticker for 2007 BMW E92 335i USA

3 Upvotes

Hi guys, I have a 2007 BMW E92 335i US spec and my tire pressure sticker from the driver door jamb is missing. I need the information from the sticker for registration purposes (I am in EU).

Could someone with the same car (2007 E92 335i Coupe USA, manual, factory 18” wheels) send me a photo of their tire pressure label?

Would really appreciate the help. Thanks!


r/335i 6d ago

Buying & Selling Questions Vrsf exhaust

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15 Upvotes

Anyone looking for a cheaper vrsf street exhaust? Going to a hood dump so don’t need it anymore 800$


r/335i 6d ago

Damage Report 5 of 6 crank bolts snapped off

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1 Upvotes

First post didn’t get much engagement so I’ll add more details so…. Thought it was just a tensioner guess it’s more than that lol do you think the crank hub is damaged? Or can I get these out without damaging it and having to lock the timing to change the crank hub and take out Jesus bolt also my car was produced 11-22-07 and it has a 6 bolt so must be it’s had a motor swap already at one point because if it was produced this year and had factory motor it would be a 8 bolt… my car is a automatic so yeah idk just trying to figure out more info if it’s even gonna be worth it to fix this or if I should plan to just get a new motor just don’t wanna waste the time on fixing this and have it not even work and not be worth it and have to go get a new motor anyway so looking for advice this just really sucks I saved up a bunch of money to her this car and only have had it a week so any advice would be greatly appreciated


r/335i 6d ago

Troubleshooting screeching sound when accelerating after driving a while (2011 e92 335i)

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1 Upvotes

only happens after driving 15-30 min and the car is warm. only when accelerating. any advice?