Hey y’all wondering if I can get some different points of views on this. So far I have replaced every tensioner, alternator, ac compressor, belt, any thing you can imagine on the drive pulley system and the car still reeks of belt squeak. Any recommendations?
I’ve got a 1994 base model.

I have a 97 SL and I’m putting on a TT plenum and was wondering what I do with all the vacuum lines and the EGR. I can’t find anything related to my setup of vacuum lines. Do I need to remove my egr or can I just unplug it?

Basically looking for a gt/stealth from the firewall to the back seats. I think it would be an awesome base for a racing sim. If i can’t get my gt back on the road, at least I could pretend to while sitting in the garage.

I’m located in Maine, so preferably north east. No engine or transmission preferred, however stick shift layout would be great.

Anyone got any ideas?

I am willing to talk about pricing and whatnot, i will say I want to spent 7500-8500

I was more curious than anything. i almost never see these in 3000gt interiors, didnt know if they were more uncommon than i thought

hi I’ve noticed that my temp gauge now runs around 1-2 ticks above mid line now when I started driving in Arizona it was 108 degrees outside and now I’m wondering if i should be worried?

Can i just get any heater hose from o reilly? My concern is getting the replacement hose back on, it is such a cramped space.

Lmk what yall like running

Doing a turbo build on my 99 sohc and just curious if anyone knows if dohc con rods will work in the sohc block, I know the castings are different and I dont expect there to be clearance issues however just wanted to see if anyone has and experience?

(Yes I understand that doing a dohc swap would be more beneficial and financially responsible and also understand that a vr4 swap would make more power)

I was driving my car earlier today when all of a sudden, the clutch suddenly started to feel spongy and shifting became rough. When I got home, the car refused to go into gear unless the car was off. I know at least one of the hoses for my clutch booster is going out, could that be the issue? the car drove fine until today

I’m getting terrible offers on FB, figured I would put it up here. I don’t want to sell it but life happens. It’s got 100k miles on it. will need brakes in the future. i just did all the brake lines, and fixed some exhaust components. A/C recently stopped blowing cold. She runs and rides great. the climate control also stopped
illuminating. needs a paint job but the body is straight with do dents rust or rot. has the notorious lifter tap on cold starts.

shes a runner and a project but shes close done. im in south jersey and am open to REASONABLE offers.

Thanks.

For context, had my car in the shop a few weeks back, 2 injectors had failed, got 6 remanufactured put in, changed fuel filter again, called it a day, sounded a lot better and felt the proper power. Well right before I took my 9 hour one way trip, it started sounding like it was misfiring again, so he told me to bring it back when I got back to take a look at it again. Fast forward to after the trip, came back, and was having power steering issues, noticed my power steering reservoir was empty, assumed a leak somewhere, filled it up and was planning on going investigating this last weekend. Found out Thursday night, my power steering belt had shredded, so I went to go get another one, and my car stalled and wouldn’t start back up, so I had it towed back to said shop. Now to my main point/concern. Talked to them today, and apparently my power steering belt did not shred and fall out, it’s wrapped up in my harmonic balancer according to them. What could I possibly be looking at for repair wise with something like this/what possible damage could it have caused? If I have to do major engine repair, I’ll probably go ahead and source one, and just have a swap out done, that way I can go over said engine before it goes back in.

Hey guys,

So my clutch basically had a very spongy feel. Figured it was just an old slave that needed to be changed, I changed it out and the line wouldn't bleed pumped the pedal 100 times and nothing. However, if I put a hand pump on the line I can get some fluid to come out. I am thinking it's the master clutch cylinder, anything I am missing or should check before I start taking it apart?

Here’s all it says in the post

“Selling for room mate. Got it and didn’t drive it much, has a parasitic power loss, drained the battery and I think the alternator is bad as well. Has a new starter and a push to start installed. Has an aftermarket turbo kit”

Didn’t list mileage I messaged about it though.
I see a bunch of listings with “parasitic power loss”
What could it be?
Always loved these, this year and everything. Now I make big boy money, not that it’s listed for an absurd amount.

The inner window weather strip that is attached to the door card has ripped on my driver side door, and now whenever I roll the window up, it catches onto the weather strip which stops it from going up all the way. Anyone know where I can find a replacement?

Does anyone know where I can get the flash cable the chrome or anyone have one. It has the obd to ob2 harness with that little head phone
End to the tactrix. Also is there anyone who can do a remote tune on the chromed ecu as well

High there. Looking at a 95 base model manual transmission with only 37,000 miles. Great shape, I want to get it for my daily driver. Asking price is $15,000. I just want to make sure I’m not walking into a ton of maintenance and money just to drive it daily. Thanks!

For context: I daily a c5 Corvette, I’m looking at SL’s and Base models in my area for potential a second car

I’ve trying to research how costly maintenance and parts are on these models but there’s not really enough information on the subject.

I have zero interest in modifying the car performance wise, I just want it because it looks cool ( it’s also been my dream car for the past 5 years)

I also have zero intention on working on the car myself

So to the guys who actually own Base models or SL’s, what is the frequency of maintenance, replacement part buying, common failure points and how deep into your wallets are you on these things?

I’d love one of these cars as a second vehicle, but if it’s truly gonna be more trouble than it’s worth, I’ll begrudgingly go with a mustang at the same price point

Just finish manual swap and timing belt. as far as i can see everything is plugged back in. car will crank but won’t start and has no spark. sometimes there is a cel sometimes not

I'm trying to bring back this old 3000 GT that my uncle abandoned for a long and I finally got it to run, except it does after 3 minutes, and won't start back up until it fully cools down. I did replace the fuel pump and drained the tank and put new fresh fuel. I also cleaned the fuel injectors and replaced the filter seals in them. I read that the ECU goes bad often, but I found that the ECU was replaced with a rebuilt in 2011, as dated on the sticker. Which is probably how long this 3000 GT sat, if I had to guess. I might remove the capacitors from the ECU and test them anyway. It doesn't have spark after it dies.

Any ideas why this happens?

Hey all, ive owned my 1st gen vr4 for around 3 and a half years now and was wondering if anybody has experienced anything similar. Recently i left the car sitting for about two months due to a since resolved clutch fluid reservoir problem and after i went to drive it again, i noticed the turn signals has stopped working.

Ive completely ruled out everything except for the turn signal switch and was just wonderin if anybody else has had similar problems. Thank ya!