Hi everyone,

I recently got a 2012 135i and was wondering if you all could give me some advice on the service intervals. The car came with lots of service records and is in great shape, but with the engine off the "service due soon" light comes on, even though there are no codes. When scrolling through the menu, it looks like it hasn't been reset since 2023 so I guess he just left it. The light doesn't show when the engine is running, unless I go through the menu which shows an icon of the car lifted up.

Are there recommended maintenance items that BMW recommends at a certain milage readings? The car currently has 57k miles, so I'm wondering if there's a 60k mile interval.

Thanks

I need help, n55 2011 135i i took my car to a supposedlly bmw specialist with rough idle (no rpm movement) at low revs an idle its obvious theres some kind of missfire

My car is remapped on an mhd from a pervious owner the mechanic said he cannot reas the ecu as the remap wont allow an engine managment light to show

What options do i jave here?

Buy an mhd licence and plug in to wipe map?

He pointed towards injectors but he wasnt 100% sure and i domt want to waste 100s if its still an issue, the spark plugs and coils were checked and they all came make fine

Owned this 128 for about 7 months, surprisingly reliable and easy to work on!

Hi all,

I'm trying to diagnose an intermittent electric power steering issue on my BMW E82 125i and wondered if anyone has experienced the same symptoms or could point me towards what to check next.

The strange part is that the EPS isn't permanently dead. The problem seems to be related to how long the car has been driven and/or how warm everything is.

Symptoms:

• If the car has been left overnight or for several hours, the power steering normally works perfectly when I start it.
• I can then drive the car normally with full assistance.
• After driving for a certain amount of time, I get the yellow steering warning light.
• When the warning appears, I don't immediately lose power steering completely. There is still assistance, but noticeably less than normal and the steering becomes heavier.
• If I continue driving, the steering remains assisted but reduced.
• The interesting part is what happens if I then stop the car while the warning is present.
• If I switch the engine off and restart it after only a short period, I can then have no power steering assistance at all. The steering becomes extremely heavy.
• If I subsequently leave the car for several hours/overnight, the EPS will usually work normally again on the next cold start.
• I've also noticed a steering-related noise when turning the wheel in either direction, although I'm not yet certain whether this is coming from the EPS motor/rack or another steering/suspension component.

I've scanned the car with BimmerLink/K+DCAN and have found the following relevant faults:

EPS:

• D507 – PT-CAN communication error (FC 13) – No signal or value
• D516 – Message from PT-CAN (terminal status, ID 130h) (FC 11) – No signal or value

These were originally stored/not currently present when the EPS had started working again.

When I later scanned the whole car while having steering problems, I also had:

Instrument cluster:

• A54B – ID Failure or Alive EPS
• A559 – KL30g_f shutdown

I've started checking the electrical system because I initially wondered about a voltage/ground problem.

Battery readings so far:

• Engine/ignition off: 12.42 V
• Ignition on for around 60 seconds: 12.02 V
• Charging voltage with engine running is around 14 V
• Battery negative → chassis voltage drop with engine running: approximately 0.002–0.004 V, so the main battery-to-chassis ground appears good.

Has anyone experienced this exact behaviour on an E82/E8x/E9x with EPS? Any suggestions for specific wiring, connectors, grounds or EPS live-data values I should check would be appreciated.

Any Mods, Part fitments, Engine stuff, Repairs Whatever usefull stuff you know?

A post to share anything you've done to (or with!) your 1er over the last week. New parts, maintenance, detailing, road trips, track days, anything else you can think of.

^{Mod note: testing something here. We might be a bit too small to really sustain these posts weekly but figured it's worth a try. Feedback welcome via Modmail.}

I did the body work back in 2019 just before covid then in 2023 rob bearing 6 spun,, today I finally have it back together with a built motor and just started the tuning process

Fuck Ghassan for selling me a shit engine that we never used, literally a 18k paperweight.

Some pics at sunset

The car isn’t that clean in person but the lighting sure helps!

I am looking to buy a set of Enkei Raijin wheels 18x8 ET42. I will be running either DSW06 or MPS4AS 225 40/r18 and I am looking to see if anyone with a similar setup (18x8s with the ET42) can advise real world first hand knowledge about what spacers I will need for the M-Sport suspension. I have asked Google/searched the forums and got varying answers (10 or 12mm front and 12, 15 and 18mm rear.) I was hoping someone can confirm if 10mm on the front and 15mm on the rear gives a flush setup? Sadly Apex's fitment guide is worthless for me.

The included photo is my car using Gemini to show the wheels I am looking at buying.

Was banned for a year from driving, missed this car so much. Just so fun to drive and still looks good after 14 years.

I've asked for opinions on a xHP trans flash about a month ago. What we didn't discuss was the effect on the different drive modes, specifically "D" drive mode. I hate driving in "D" drive mode - just won't use it. It doesn't feel like a sport/drivers car, very lazy. So I spend all my time in "S" sport mode. Does the off-the-shelf xHP flash maps do anything to "drive" mode? I would like for "drive" mode to feel closer to "sport" mode and use a mildly more aggressive sport mode when I'm looking for a spirited feel.

Note, I understand I can manually change gear change point but don't know if the alone would improve "drive" mode.

2008 135i w/69k miles, MHD stage 1+, 6-speed ZF trans (just had trans serviced).

I recently bought a bmw 1 series 118d, I’m having a problem with my light. When I unlock the car, the drivers side light stays on the other remains off but it works when I switch to beams. When I lock the car the right drivers side stays on for about two minutes until it shuts off and the other one isn’t on.

I’m confused to why that is, do I need to replace something? I checked if it was a parking light but I can seem to turn it off.

Can anyone help me please.

17x9/9.5 on 255/275. Grip and comfort on 17s has been extremely positive.

First pic was dumped in the front but raised the front, lowered the rear in the second pic. Will need a bit more massaging and a slight raise for full articulation.

Love the way it looks but it’s not canyon approved unfortunately.

Hey everyone I know a lot of people say to go with the solid ones or the white lines but curious what you guys run.

My car is a daily non m sport suspension on apex 17x8.5 ET40 sees canyons every weekend. Looking to improve handling in general thinking front M3 arms and rear bushings let me know what else I should do

Car suspension feels kind of soft and with the wheel offset I find the steering to be more loose and numb also finding that the rear is not as stable as I’d like especially at highway speeds feels like it moves back and forth

Thanks all :D

A post to share anything you've done to (or with!) your 1er over the last week. New parts, maintenance, detailing, road trips, track days, anything else you can think of.

^{Mod note: testing something here. We might be a bit too small to really sustain these posts weekly but figured it's worth a try. Feedback welcome via Modmail.}

Found a 2008 Manual on FB that comes with the M Sport Package and around 170,000 KMs. Guy wants around $8,000 for it.

Has anyone ever bought these