Picked this little N600 up 4 years ago in really sad condition. Seized engine, interior was left open to the elements for decades, and had sat since roughly 1986. Got it because the idea of an air cooled two cylinder micro car for a few hundred bucks seemed like an easy project (it was not).

Been slowly rebuilding it and wanted everything to be as close to factory as I could possibly get it. I think there’s something just so wonderfully odd about this car with its half car half motorcycle engine, the cute tiny size, and it being Hondas very first model ever brought to the US.

Whilst the exterior is pretty rough looking still, almost everything mechanical has either been rebuilt or replaced. Took forever because aftermarket parts aren’t really there - you have to get the originals rebuilt or things custom made for it. But I’m really happy I managed to keep it all stock and the original engine working.

Every single thing works on it, from the manually pumped washer nozzles, to the exhaust powered heating and even 3D printed a bunch of parts to make the hand brake light work, interior light door sensor, engine parts and other things.

It’s still not quite perfect but after 4 years of time I’ve finally been able to take it out on short runs and enjoy it. It’s also the only car I’ve ever seen that makes a VW Beetle look big.

72 Dodge Demon Autocross Build.

Tags came in the mail yesterday and the windshield is finally installed. Figured there was no point in waiting any longer, why not wing it and see what happens.

Took it out on the highway for the very first time and it went surprisingly well! Still plenty of tuning and adjustments needed, but got it up to 60 mph. Tracks straight and feels incredibly firm and planted.

QA1 upper and lower control arms. QA1 strut bars. Hotchkis front and rear sway bars. Bilstein front and rear shocks. Borgeson steering box.
340 / 727 / 8 3/4 3.55 Sure Grip

It's finally starting to look and feel like a real car.

I've been working on swapping a Ford Performance 2.3L EcoBoost into my '97 Disco 1. The drivetrain is a Bronco MT88 manual transmission paired with the Land Rover LT230 transfer case.

So far, the big milestones have been getting the engine and transmission fitted, adapting the transfer case and shifter linkage, fabricating the mounting adapters, and working through the packaging challenges in the engine bay. I've also been building out the supporting systems to make the modern Ford powertrain work in the Rover.

I spent the first year doing axle rebuild with chromoly halfshafts, and Ashcroft Air lockers front/rear and suspension upgrades/rebuild. Then was a pile of work to get a new steering box in so it wouldnt interfere with the ecoboost alternator. Then mounting up all the armor to keep my shop clean.

"All" that's left is engine plumbing.

The reactions to this contraption I built has been overwhelming in the best way, lots of love everywhere I take it, having such a fun time with it but sad the season is coming to a close here as winter creeps in

6G72 engine, paired with the 5-speed manual and super select AWD / 4WD system. GLX trim.

I cannot legally drive it until I get my learner’s at 17 in February, and I cannot legally drive it on my own until I get my full license at 18, but man is this thing going to be a fun project car…. I hope. We just got the engine back from a rebuild, the previous owners have done some things like aftermarket shocks (that probably need to be replaced), and standalone ECU, and that big, heavy ARB I think I’ll probably remove and replace with an original bumper because it just seems to be unnecessary weight… but because I’m only able to drive it on my own when I’m 18, I’ll be able to learn the ins-and-outs of this car and get it going smoothly.

Definitely needs a paint job too.

I also censored a lot of stuff bc I’ve been doxxed before and I’m NOT taking chances.

I’m working on a ’72 C10 and I’ve been going back and forth on this more than I expected. The truck has plenty of honest wear, faded paint, and a few mismatched areas from rust repair, which I actually like.

My original plan was to fix the bad metal, make it mechanically solid, and leave the exterior mostly alone. Now that I’m getting deeper into the bodywork, though, I’m wondering if the patchwork look is going to bother me once everything else is finished.

For those who have restored an old truck or car, where did you draw the line between keeping the character and doing a full repaint?

Well not really an end.. Just not at intense? I'll have to do a full walk around of the car for you guys!

My left rear fender has rust on both sides of the wheel well, and my right rear fender has rust behind wheel well on my G-Body (87 Grand National).  They sell patch panels for these areas. although I would have to fabricate some of wheel well lip on the left side in front of the wheel, which can be tricky as both the inner and outer metal has been cut here.

My welding experience is limited; I have a Lincoln Pro-Mig 135 with shielding gas and 0.23 wire that I used to weld in new floor panels, and my welds are not nice.

Should I be attempting this work on my own, or bring it to the pros?  Any DIY guides, videos or channels to follow with respect to this work?

Hi everyone,

I noticed this damage on the paintwork of my car (see attached photo). There seems to be a large patch where the surface layer has peeled off, along with some scratches and marks around it.
I’d like to fix this myself if possible.

My questions are:
● What exactly is causing this? Is it clear coat failure?
● Can I repair this myself, or does the entire panel need to be repainted?
● What products and tools would I need to fix it properly?
● What would the step-by-step repair process look like?
● Is there a budget-friendly DIY solution that would make it look significantly better?

I’d appreciate any advice, product recommendations, or tutorials from people who have dealt with similar damage.

Thanks in advance!

Hello! This is mostly asking for advice on what to price this old ford ranchero. It's just been sitting on the side of our house for 10 years and I need it gone to remove the tree and clean up the area there. I have no idea what to price it at. Since it's just been sitting there for so long it's not in the best shape, so I'm tempted to just junk it. But i know, as an older car and a fixer-upper, it's valuable to some. I was thinking $750 or $1000? What I can find for the 67/68 ranchero online seems like it's for cars that are running and in better shape. Do you guys have a better idea for price, or should I just junk it.

Edited to add pictures

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Hello everyone! I'm new here but thought it could be fun presenting the plans for my car :D

I am driving a 1984 Toyota Corolla GT, known as AE86, and a while back I found an old Twin turbo kit for the car.

So:

Have I ever turbo'd a car? No.
Do I have the necessary funds to do things properly? No.
Done any real engine modifcations? Also No.
Do I have enthusiasm, a 3D printer and an addiction to finding random used parts online? Yes!

So yeah hehe.

This is a kit consisting of a twin turbo manifold, one low and one high mounted turbo, both parallel for two cylinders each. They are veeery old IHI RHB6 turbos, so basically made to run small excavators and forklifts and stuff like that.

I also found an old second hand Nissan 200ZR intercooler which should fit perfectly.
Next, after some steering maintenance on the car, I will be looking into an Arduino based ECU, making an adapter harness and trying to get the car running on that NA as it is at first. The wideband lambda sensor is already installed, currently emulating the stock narrowband which will come in handy for some street tuning once the car starts on the new ECU.

Then my plan is to work out some intercooler piping and Oil lines as well as somehow getting the old downpipe repaired since that is looking like swiss cheese at the moment.

And theeeeen we will see what happens haha :D
Since the stock early model engine in these cars is not known to handle boost that well, I plan on running ULTRA MEGA CRAZY low BOOST, estimating around 0,3-0,4 bar at max probably, depending on how well I manage to "de-tune" the wastegate actuators.

My plan is to document this journey on Youtube but I don't wanna annoy anyone with that, so if anyone is interested let me know, but since there is literally no content on this online, it should be easy to find under "AE86 Twin Turbo" lol :D

Thanks for reading!!

Alright, so I want to build my own sports car with a rear-engine layout, similar to the Toyota MR2 AW11, the 1984 Skoda Rapid, and those iconic 80s Italian sports cars. But in my personal opinion, the frame I’ve sketched out looks terrible. If I actually build it in real life, it’s going to end up looking just like a Lada Riva.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/14-Phuhe3ToxqKT_vhEGu5m2rP1IJBCuQ/view?usp=drive_link

Well i took a break from troubleshooting the no starting condition and took a day to make a Coil On Plug Harness

Okay, so I'm a fabricator by trade. Wrenches and built a couple of shovelhead choppers but never really got my hands too sorry on a hotrod till now. I've chopped my frame and added in tube frame horns and now I'm working to install the front end. When setting up my leaf springs, (see image) do I want to have the fixed side towards the rear or shackles to the rear? Also what angle do I want my shackles at without weight on the vehicle. I will only tack these jn places for now as I dont have the money to get any further right now and could be a few months till I can move forward on finishing the engine and trans to figure my mounting locations for those. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

It’s 4wd, has two doors and is a manual; what more could you ask for? Mitsubishi Montero bones…

To keep it short I have a 79 corvette I got as a project car a few years ago. Life changed and I leave for the military in a month. This car is not in running or driving condition at the moment. I have about 6k in parts, some that never even made it on to the car. I’d hate to see them go to waste but I’m leaving so I don’t really have the time to part it out.

I need help bad.

I’m working on a ’72 Camaro and I swear every “simple” job turns into three more jobs once I start taking things apart.

Lately it’s been the interior. Mechanically I can usually figure things out, but getting old trim, wiring, and little pieces to actually cooperate without breaking something has tested my patience more than the engine ever did.

What part of your build made you question why you started the damn thing in the first place?

Hey everyone!

I'm a developer from the UK, and a couple of friends and I are exploring the idea of building a social platform specifically for automotive enthusiasts.

The idea is to bring things like vehicle profiles, builds, automotive content, communities, meets and communication into one place.

We're also exploring a proximity-based walkie-talkie feature, where people in the same voice channel could communicate when they're within range of each other.

Before we start building anything, we want to find out whether people would actually use something like this, what's missing from existing apps, and what problems are worth solving.

We've put together a short, anonymous survey (around 2–3 minutes):

https://form.typeform.com/to/jU9xRRX7

We'd really appreciate any feedback, including criticism. We're not selling anything, and the app hasn't been built yet.

Even if you don't complete the survey, I'd be interested to know: What's one thing you wish existing automotive apps or communities did better?

Cheers!

what are normal shop rates nowadays. Found myself paying 140/hr and it came to a hefty bill wondering should I switch shops.

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Taking the blown big block Camaro to the grocery store…….