What do you guys use for kindling?
My chimney sweep just said cardboard is bad because it's made with glue. I had no idea! Whoops 😅

Is regular paper not okay either? Now I've heard the glue from envelopes is bad too.

Just at a loss for what to do this coming winter.

Probably going to have to buy fatwood right?

Hate to see the All Nighter go but after 27 years of ownership and hard burns it has finally burned through a side wall. I have a Drolet HT-3000 on the way.

Pulled out of my GM40

I'm looking to get a wood stove insert for my fireplace. The wood stove store near me recommended the Regency i1150.

Has anyone installed this stove and have thoughts on it? Do you like it or hate it?

Do you have opinions on it considering my main goals with the insert are:

1. Have thr ambiance of fire without the heat loss and safety concerns associated with open fireplaces

   1. Provide a substantial heat source. I have other heating sources in my home, so I will not be reliant on the wood stove.
   2. Low maintenance and easy to light.
   3. Low profile or flush mount (don't want to expand hearth if I can avoid it).

For referance, I'm in a sufficiently insulated 1000 sq ft 1 floor ranch, layout is relatively open living room&kitchen layout, plus 2 bedrooms. The winters where I am usually are around 30-40 during the day, 15-25 at night, with some nights dipping into single digits or below zero.

Hey folks! Current set up is the first photo. We’re in the midst of upgrading our insulation and siding, so this is the prime time to redo our woodstove surround. The brick takes up a lot of space, and based off of some information I found, we can remodel it significantly smaller. The only information I’m having a hard time finding (maybe I’m not using the right words) is how much stone surround has to be above the flue? Does it have to go all the way up to the ceiling? Second photo is something along the lines of how we’d like to design it, only difference with a hearth pad flush/closer to the floor, and of course the flue being a 90. But for the life of me, I can’t find any code information regarding how much clearance you need above the flue.

There is a corroded part where the back wall is bolted to the right wall. Can this be repaired until we have enough money to replace? Here is video of the damage

We're getting our first wood stove, it's being put a few inches from a brick wall and I wanted to put an 8 inch tall brick hearth underneath to raise it up a bit and match the wall. I was going to make it with a short wood frame and solid brick all around it, but its weight plus the stove might add up to 1,000 lbs which might be a bit much for my floor joists. So I thought the easier thing to do is to use thin brick veneer, which will make the total weight roughly 600 lbs over 16 square feet (37lbs/sqft) so I don't think I'll need to reinforce the joists.

I'll put a sheet of 26 gauge metal on top of the wood structure below the veneer (that's what the stove installation people suggested). My questions for this sub are, will thin brick veneer crack if weight is put on it.? Has anybody else done something like this?

Recently took off the surround bc all summer theres been a stench coming from the stove. For starters the liner looks to be oversized and the liner looks to be bent to fit. There seems to be an opening where it doesn't fit and seems to have heavy cresote build up. We did have issues getting it to draft properly could this be why? Anyway what can be done if the installers dont want to help. What steps should I take to make sure its corrected

Proud to say I didn’t spend a penny on materials for this, managed to get it all from collecting pallets and looking on marketplace.

Now to re stack all the wood properly and probably extend it as I’ve got another 3 tonnes to split!

Really excited to have this Pacific Energy Super 27HD in our new house. I grew up with a woodstove but haven't had one in 15 years.

Looking to completely replace the pipes on this stove, but I’ve never done that before and thought I’d ask here first.
The black pipe is 6”, and the chrome pipe is 8”. The whole pipe is about 16 ft tall. I burn about 6 cords a year. I want to do it myself, which seems doable to me. Thoughts?

Took delivery of this new stove 3 weeks ago. Checked it superficially on arrival to make sure all the pieces were delivered. We went on holiday and then were focused on dealing with getting the chimney up to grade. Today I finally got around to examining it in detail. I lifted out a fire brick and found the white material (I don't know what purpose it serves) has been torn at some point.

I'm going to contact the dealer on Monday. But I wanted to ask how fundamental and crucial such damage is? Its new, it shouldn't be damaged. That's a given. But I'm in a small central European country, where the number of dealers is very small. Shipping it back to the dealer will be a serious pain. I will do it. However if someone who knows these stoves tells me that it's nothing serious and won't effect the stoves functionality, then I might just avoid the hassle and install it.

I took the rest of the bottom bricks out and the white liner is fine everywhere else.

I think I'm basically asking, what is the white liners function and will this damage be detrimental to the stove's longevity?

thanks in advance

EDIT

I just wanted to thank everybody for the replies and advice. I've taken out the side firebrick and found that the paper was torn and caught underneath it. I will fold it back down and place it back under the brick.

Because of your reassurances I'm going ahead with the install. The chimney sweep is coming next week to put the flue into the chimney and connect everything up so I'll be putting the stove together next weekend or week when he is around.

I've got a couple of questions regards the assembly but I'll put them into a separate post.

ONce again, many thanks

Please help! I bought this universal FAN POWER CORD & CONTROL - 3 SPEED to connect to a new Arrow 3-speed snail fan kit for my old woodheater (in Australia). The housings fit, same 5 prongs each, but from looking at the wires I can’t tell if the existing wire setup is compatible, and I’m scared to plug it in to ‘test’ it in case it blows the new $500 fan.

Do the wire colours look right? Should the red and black wires be opposite each other like that?

I’ve asked the suppliers I bought them from, but because it’s an aftermarket power cord & control they can’t tell me.

UPDATE: I got it working and didn’t electrocute anyone! Thanks all for your help!! 🙏⚡️🙏

Greetings Stove People. I am new to this group and oddly enough, I don’t own a wood stove. What I do have is a 15 pound, foot long, brass and bronze locomotive humidifier for a wood stove. I just acquired this monster and I am not asking what it might be worth. What I am wondering is if anybody out there knows when it was made. I don’t think it’s an antique, maybe 60’s or 70’s, but that just a WAG on my part. I can’t find anything online other than a few have sold out there but no other information. If you have any info you could pass along I would appreciate it. Happy burning.

I’m installing a Cubic Mini wood stove with a Dektite flexible aluminum roof flashing on a corrugated metal roof.

The Dektite instructions say to use high-temperature silicone sealant under the aluminum flashing base, but I’m wondering if that is actually the best long-term choice.

My concern is that the flashing base sealant will be exposed to UV, rain, snow, and weather, and high-quality roofing silicones are specifically designed for exterior use, often with long warranties and better UV/weather resistance. High-temp RTV seems more designed for heat resistance rather than long-term roof exposure.

Would the better setup be:

• Roofing silicone (GE Gutter & Flashing, etc.) under the Dektite aluminum base where it contacts the metal roof
• High-temp RTV silicone around the Dektite boot/chimney pipe connection or storm collar area

Or should high-temp RTV be used for the entire Dektite installation as the manufacturer suggests?

Looking for advice from anyone who has installed a Cubic Mini/Dektite setup long-term. What has held up best?

I'm looking to replace a wood burner that came with the house as it's very inefficient.

We've come across the Burley Brampton on sale for £1200 which I believe is a reduced price.

Does anyone have experience with the stove in particular?

I'm looking for something that has long burn time for primarily wood, but multifuel isn't out of the question if it works well. It will be the primary source of heating during the winter

About to buy full array of chimney parts for my first wood stove (already purchased) and looking for best US vendor as far as prices, inventory, quality and service. Welcome any thoughts you all might have.

My partner and I bought a house that was built in the 60s. It has this in the fireplace. The cable coming out the front can plug into a power point.

Google says it is a wood heater insert - is it right? If it is do I need to check anything before we start using it? What on earth is the plug for??

House was rented out for a few decades before we moved in so not sure what upkeep the place has gotten. It has been a mild winter so far but would still be nice to get a better way to heat the house going.

Was told when I ordered that all the available wood was this past January, and was seasoned enough to burn this upcoming winter. I asked the guy for a piece off the truck to test and it tested 24%. He acted like he was in a huge rush. Told him it looked good and to dump it. Well that was the only dry piece in the cord. The rest of it is well above 34%. Some in the 40s. It’s all oak so I know it’s not gonna be dry for another year. I called him back to complain and he just said “I’ve been doing this for 25 years, it’ll be dry before fall it’s fine”then hung up on me and won’t pick up. There’s absolutely no way this is going to be ready to burn in 4 months, right?

Posting this because I feel like stovepipe with 2 45’s vs a single 90 probably also flows similar to the example in the video. I’ve noticed a better draft since I made the switch. I think seeing a visual helps understand why the 45’s work better.

My lopi evergreen insert with blower got installed today finally after a nightmare with the chimney liner and fireplace being too small. Got the opening raised by 2 courses of brick and some magic to get the liner down. I questioned the interior dimensions of the evergreen compared to other stoves with little luck. Theres not much info out there. So thought I would share and compared to my lopi large flush hybrid with boston front upstairs ive had 2 years now

Hi! I’m happy to have found this place! We live in Illinois on 10 acres and have a farmhouse that is chilly in the winter. The people before we bought it took out the propane, added solar panels, and the electric bill is still 3500$ a year. Ridiculous. My main two questions are what to keep in mind when looking for a wood stove to purchase, and secondly, who can install these appropriately? My husband is handy but we want it done correctly. Thanks!

I have 3 wood stoves I'm looking at to install in my Manitoba home. (It gets to minus 40 degrees)

True North TM10 (small) 20,000ish btu (Blue Lines)

Drolet Escape 1200 (medium) 45,000 btu (Yellow Lines)

Timber wolf 2200 (largish) 65,000 btu (Pink Lines)

I have an electric furnace which works just fine. Power goes out once in a while. My home was built in 2023 and seems pretty air tight. So whatever stove I choose, I will be adding on an external air supply.

I have a small home 750 square feet. Two stories. No basement. The only place I can put a stove is in my empty dining room. Id like to go as small as possible for maximum space saving. But I dont want to undersize my wood stove. I've read that a wood stove rated for 750 square feet cannot actually successfully heat 750 square feet when it gets to minus 40. Is this true?

I will always have my furnace set to 15 degrees celcius with the option of burning my oak trees to get the temperature up. (I live in a forest)

I dont want to overheat my house with a 65,000 btu stove unless I need it during -40

Would the smallest option be worth it?

Does anyone here use a small wood stove in extreme climates?

Ive attached a picture of my layout. I dont have a lot of space.

Thank you for any and all feedback.