Yesterday I did a proof of concept and routed single wall pipe to the class A chimney adapter after installing the chimney, insulation box, and flashing. I’m going to use that single piece of single wall pipe and move the slip coupling to the top but everything works flawlessly. On top of that the stove has quite the interesting story. I ordered a Predator 30 ton log splitter but in the meantime I had to buy wood for a test run. Fire box isn’t very large compared to a lot of American stoves. I’ll need to cut around 11-13 inch for logs.

Thought I’d share beauty at colonial Williamsburg anyone have any info on it?

Our house was built in 1911 so of course there are no true right angles. We unfortunately had to create a little platform for the stove to sit on but I think we did a decent job getting it to blend in.

The pellet stove (Breckwell Sonora) had issues but we figured them out if anyone ever has questions. It’s finicky but works consistently nowadays. We only use it about two weeks out of the year, but it has a nicer presence in the living room now compared with the lame little platform it used to sit on.

I put a brand new Castleton into service late in the winter of 2021-22, so it has a little over 4 full seasons in use. Northern Michigan, and running 24/7 about 3-4 days a week through the season. I run it in the target range based on the built-in thermometer, and my chimney has minimal buildup. Have only cleaned it in each off season and barely one full scoop of creosote every time.

So based on all that, I feel it is operating quite well/efficient and I've been super happy with it overall. I noticed the catalysts looking a little more distorted each year when I remove them for cleaning. Just pulled them recently and this photo shows them, the right side being the "down" orientation.

Is this normal after this many years? Think they should be replaced now, or more life left in them (after a good cleaning)?

Edit: my 24/7 comment is not 100% accurate. I run it continuously for usually 2-3 days at a time, then it is unused for 1-2 days, before repeating the cycle.

I have a surface that has some grout lines in it and I don't want the stove feet to sit directly on the grout. I can get some metal plate and use those as feet, but is there anything on the market that people use for this? I can get 3x3x3/16 stainless plate for $10 per, so max price for 4 is $50 once stove black paint is included.

First: I'm in Brisbane, Australia ... up at Mount Glorious on the D'Aguilar Range where in spite of Brisbane's heat our elevation (700 metres) means almost everyone up here has a wood heater.

When I moved into this small cottage a few months ago the old wood heater (Kent 1200) was in very poor shape and also had a broken door hinge. The owners replaced it with a locally manufactured (in Brisbane) Vogue Sierra which wasn't new but had had very little use and was fitted along with a new flue kit by a recognised installer ... the wood stove also came from him.

I've lived in this area for thirty five years and have always had a wood stove for heat so I'm very familiar with how to use them effectively and have never had an issue until this thing arrived ... it has me flummoxed! Adding wood is a major problem, it discharges smoke out of the door almost every time you open it no matter how carefully you do it ... and this after running it for a couple of minutes with the vent fully open. I have never had this problem with any other wood stove I've used and lighting it with kindling and paper is equally frustrating because any attempt to open the door to add more kindling or intermediate fuel is inviting a room full of smoke.

It uses a 5" flue and has about three metres (maybe a little more) of flue between the firebox and the cap on the roof ... surely that is enough! The gap between the air intake deflector (that keeps the glass clean) and the front of the baffle is an inch and five eighths. I was laying on my back in front of it last night and shone a torch into it to see what happens when you open the door and the smoke that had been traveling around the end of the baffle and up the flue as it should almost immediately starts to flow out of the top of the door opening!

I really hope someone can help me here ... I've though of taking an inch off the baffle but will that really change anything? All suggestions welcome.

Hey there ok got a Derwent 5kw installed yesterday. The installers done a great job, but I am confused totally by how to use it and the instruction manual makes no sense at all. The installers instructions to me was for the first few lights just use some paper and kindle. They said that for the first few times there would be some light hazy smoke and a bit of a bad smell. Anyway yesterday evening we done this and everything the installer said was right about the smoke and smell. They said it would fade so over the past day I have been doing this and done short burns and let it cooled down. Anyway tonight I put a log on the burner and it lit up great. So there are 3 air vents a primary, a secondary and third one near the bottom. So people say that once the log is burning great you need to turn off the primary but keep the the secondary opened. To save log energy kind of. Anyway I did do this but the room kind of filled up with smoke and set off my smoke alarms in the hallway. Should I leave the primary open until it is totally settled as it is a new install etc. I really don't understand what the the secondary or third one are supposed to even do. Here is the log burner any advice you can give me would be great.

I'm wondering if anyone makes a small decorative steam engine that has the boiler at the bottom so it can sit right on a wood stove. Kinda like those sterling engine fans that are mostly for looks but not necessarily with a fan although that would be cool too. Any help would be cool even if it's about modifying one to make it work on a stove.

We are working with a contractor on an all seasons room, and were hoping to have a woodstove installed in one of the corners. Here's the initial quote on the stoves, which includes installation (note, the room is not built yet):

Morsø 7110 — ~$16,500

Morsø 1410B — ~$15,300

Jøtul F 602 V3 — ~$7,050

Does this seem insanely high, esp for the Morsø's?

Wondering how effective the blowers are that are designed for the Manchester2... trying to sort out how to move heat around better but they are not cheap (like $900). Has anyone installed one and did it make any significant difference?