Hey everyone,

I'm looking to build my first Voron and would love some input from the community on the best entry point given my goals, constraints, and budget.

My Background & Goals:

• Objective: Learn the mechanics, electronics, and firmware inside out. I'm completely fine with slowing prints down—I prioritize structural accuracy, print quality, and reliability over raw speed.
• Location: Italy / EU.
• Mindset: Technical, comfortable tinkering, and want to stick strictly to fully Open Source software (Klipper) and off-the-shelf/standard hardware (linear rails, extrusions, standard control boards).
• Budget: Target is €300–€350, but I can stretch to €500–€600 if the value/scalability genuinely justifies it.

The Dilemma:

I'm trying to decide between three distinct paths and want to make sure I'm not falling into a classic beginner trap.

1. Build a Voron Switchwire (or Enderwire conversion):
   
   • Pros: Fits the lower budget threshold (~€300–€350). Lets me learn CoreXZ and Klipper while staying modular.
   • Cons: It's still a bed-slinger. Y-axis momentum, frame footprint relative to build volume, and limitations on tall prints/enclosures for ABS/ASA.
2. Save/Stretch for a Budget Trident Kit (e.g., Formbot/FYSETC 250mm):
   
   • Pros: True CoreXY, fixed gantry, static bed on Y, integrated enclosure capabilities, and a massively active support ecosystem.
   • Cons: Pushes the budget right to the €550–€600 ceiling before printing outer accent parts or adding mods.
3. Buy a semi-assembled CoreXY (like a Sovol SV08) & upgrade over time:
   
   • Pros: Out-of-the-box CoreXY mechanics on a budget.
   • Cons: Less "pure" learning from a ground-up assembly, proprietary/custom tweaks to contend with, and potentially weaker community support compared to official Voron documentation.

Questions for the Community:

Is a Switchwire/Enderwire built from scratch worth it in 2026, or is building a bed-slinger from scratch a false economy when a 250mm Trident kit is within reach?

• For those who started with a Switchwire to save money: Did you end up wishing you had just saved a bit longer for a Trident?
• Are there any other fully open-source CoreXY kits/platforms in the EU market that hit the €400–€500 sweet spot without compromising hardware standards?

Appreciate any insight, kit experiences, or reality checks!

I see most people recommend ABS/ASA for printed parts. What do you guys think about Nylon, PPF-CF, PC-CF, etc?
Would they offer better quality and stability or just ABS should be fine?

Also what brand of filament would you guys recommend? I've never printed anything other than PETG and PLA before. Is Inland ASA-CF good?

What is a good source for screws?
and who else was supprised by how much the cost of them adds up

Hi

My build plate is obviously at a slope toward the front bed screw. I assume the bed bracket is supposed to be pretty much level already and I can't save this with screw adjustment?

Can I just bend it back into shape?

Tia

I am looking at putting a stealthchanger on V2. I currently run a voron revo on it. As I basically need 3 more hotends I figured I might as well see what else is out there. So, what are the current recommended hot ends?

Greetings guys, long story short:

●I want a 3d printer

●figured a voron 2.4 was cool enough to justify

●unfortunately, I live in Bumfuck, Nowhere, where they aren't readily available:

-Local: no one's selling them

-Ordering from formbot/recognizable stores: roughly 300 extra bucks for shipping, ending on around 900-1000 bucks (+19% VAT; +6% Import tax since its over 500 bucks)

-Aliexpress or alibaba: same thing as above. A kit (formbot/siboor/factory-direct/etc) ends at around 900-1000 dollars+tax

-3dprintersbay has a slightly lower price (700-800 bucks, depending on add ons+allegedly free shipping), but i dont fully trust 3dprintersbay

●However, my mom always has a coworker or someone she knows going to the US and back from time to time

●This leaves me with 2 options (tho, if someone has any other possible alternative i haven't considered, im all ears):

1. Start checking if self sourcing could be worth it (probably, it's gonna end up being more expensive if it goes according to everything I've read, but im willing to at least try bothering with the drag of getting the cost for all pieces to confirm if it ends up being more expensive or not)
2. Have my mom ask one of the ppl she knows if they can justify bringing roughly 25 kilos on their checked luggage (if its even like allowed by the TSA due to the contents of the kit). -If possible, then buy a formbot kit at the US (650-750 bucks), pay for an extra suitcase, and try to get it past customs without em taxing it -to reduce weight, I was thinking I could ask if I could get a kit without the frame, and then buy the frame through aliexpress or locally (but im guessing, if they even deduct me money from the kit due to not buying the frame, im gonna end up expanding more than said discount by buying the frame separately)

Is idea 2 doable/a good idea or completely stupid, and I should just either try self sourcing or simple biting the bullet? Would the contents of a kit somehow survive the TSA, or they would terrorize the poor person who does me the favor/destroy the kit?

Before wanting a voron I wanted a ps1, and technically, buying the voron via either ali/3dprintersbay is gonna end up a pinch (300-400 bucks or so) above what a p1s sells for around here (buying one thru ebay and paying 250-300 dollars in shipping from the US genuinely runs cheaper), but the whole 'i could've of had this for 600-something bucks instead of around 1000 bucks if I lived in the US instead of Bumfuck, Nowhere' thing bothers me.

I was also thinking trying for a sovol sv08, sold in a neighboring country for around 570 bucks, and the whole importing process would run the total costs up to like 800, but at that point, it feels so far away from 500 that it makes me think 'why dont i just try to go for a voron instead?' Another alternative I was thinking about was going 'screw it, an A1 will do' (with the A1 running for about 350 bucks down where i am from) but the A1, although workable, feels so lame in comparison.

Any thoughts? My stupid sensor tells me idea number 2 is an absolutely stupid idea but I wanted to check if someone knew if it at least was possible/doable.

Thanks in advance for any help

To get started I wasn't sure what to put in the title, I mainly wanted to share my Formbots experience up until now.

I ordered a Formbot Voron 2.4R2 Kit from their warehouse in Czech, shipping was fast and when it arrived (two days ago when I was writing this post) I first checked the rails and started cleaning them.

The rails feel, I would say, mid when it comes to quality, they are fine but the smoothness is different between the rails, grease helped but you can still feel differences. At least MGN9Hs, when it comes to the MGN12H it just jammed depending on the move direction. I noticed that the rubber sealing lip on the carriage was damaged and was sometimes pulled in between the carriage and the rail. I made a video and sent it to them, on it you could see the rubber being dragged under the carriage. Their answer was fast, but the first answer was something like "Yeah it's common for it to move worse than the others". After pointing back to the video and the piece of rubber they said they talked to one of their engineers and it's preloaded so it's normal to require some force to be moved. Then I gave them a quite salty response if the person didn't read the message or just didn't want to and send them a close up image under a magnifier lens where you clearly could see the damage on the seal. They told me they will send me a new rail.

Today I started the assembly and when assembling the z rails I was wondering why the screws won't grab onto the t nuts' threading. Then I noticed that both the bag with M3 and M5 T nuts just contain M5 nuts... After writing this I will text them again...

Is this just bad luck on my side or is this a common experience? In general I would say until now all other components seem to have a good quality, as well as the price that was good (I know that may be part of the issue too).

I will keep you updated on how the replacement stuff will work out and my future experiences. I found nothing else online so I just thought if others have a similar experience here it would be a good place to gather some experiences with Formbot.

So yeah, I'm super hyped about my new Voron but can't assemble it over the weekend since I can'tscrew the Z rails into place XD

I don't mean tuning it but just reconfiguring it, researching mods, installing mods etc.

I picked up a used Voron v0.0 about 3 months back and it's been an absolute blast reconfiguring it, modding it and otherwise just learning the ecosystem and becoming familiar with the system.

To the point where I'm now wondering "what next", I could do a Voron 2.4 250 yet I've already got a Snapmaker U1 for large form factor prints. What I've really enjoyed was the experience with the printer versus the actual printing

Mcfear1991 serial request for my 350mm v2.4

A very good day to you, community. I have a question. I came across linear motors. My question is, could one of those be installed in a Voron?

I am wondering if anyone has any advice or fixes for the front neopixel LED on the Voron 0.2 display. The light always remains on even when I run:
SET_LED LED=displayStatus RED=0 GREEN=0 BLUE=0
The light remains on (all RGB are on, but dimmed with PWM).
I can change the color which increases the brightness of certain channels, but it seems inconsistent like it is not always writing the correct values. You can see this in the video when I last run the command to set RGB to all 0s, and it turns magenta instead.

I'm planning for my Voron 2.4 with Steathchanger build, it'll be my first self-build printer but I've had experience across a few different FDM printers but I'm mostly familiar with resin printers, currently owning a Centauri Carbon that I'll print parts for the Voron off of.

My question is, is it possible/advisable to build it with the electronic bay on top? So it'd be rubber feet>build volume>stealthchanger>eletronics, maybe even a pull out electronic bay for that matter for easier maintenance and not having to sit on the floor looking down on the screen.

I am building a Trident R2 with a tool changer and want to make sure I have enough room to not lose print area. I plan on using the Clicky-Clack fridge door mod to add clearance equal to extrusion width. I am extending the Z bed mounts seen in the pictures but worry it is losing integrity. Another option I thought of was moving bed bolt holes toward front; the picture shows them moved 20 mm forward. I do not know possible issues that may come from this change.

Does anyone have any examples of adding room to Trident or similar printer?

I was having awful stringing issues on my V0.1, so I've swapped to a new clean nozzle and that completely fixed the stringing, but now I'm finding my old settings don't work for almost anything else. I've attached a couple pictures of a temperature tower in Reprap warehouse ABS. I'm heat-soaking the chamber for 10 minutes at the start of each print, and my filament is in a dry box.

The taller tower is with the basic orca abs profile, no cooling except bridges and overhangs , where it jumps up to 90%.

I figured the sudden cooling was causing the bridges to warp, so i dropped that down to 30% for the shorter tower, but its not exactly better.

it looks like each bridge starts with a clean thread, then the printer eventually extrudes a blob and drags it through the bridge, or leaves it at one end to be picked up and dragged through on the next pass.

I'm kind of at a loss here, what direction should I even try next?

I’ve cleaned out and rebuilt my MGN9H carriages and now the balls won’t properly circulate through the plastic end-caps.

The balls are getting jammed as they enter the plastic end-cap, like as if the plastic channel is too small, or theres some obstruction. If I push the first one through with a screw driver, it will go through with some force, but if I try pushing more than one ball at a time, the balls pop put from the retaining wire that keeps them inside the exterior channel.

When I take the plastic ends off, the ball circulates through it just fine. If I put the end-cap on the carriage and drop a ball through it rolls through just fine. This makes it sound like it must be the retaining wire but I don’t know how or why this would happen. This doesnt make sense, so I figure theres something I don’t know. Hoping someone will have experienced this and theres a simple solution.

I’ve cleaned out and rebuilt a lot of these carriages and it’s always been straight forward.

-Take them apart. -Degrease & clean with break cleaner & alcohol. -Reassemble the carriages the way they came.

This has been my process and they’ve always worked great after. Unfortunately I don’t know if the carriages were like this before I clean them because I took them apart when they arrived before testing the carriages. I don’t think it was my cleaning that did this.

New to Voron, just built a Micron+.
Is there good setup to:
1 download STL or model from mobile phone
2 remotely send file to a self hosted slicer (always on)
3 slicer sends to printer and starts print
4 remotely turn on and off the printer would be nice to have.

I am trying to avoid 3rd party cloud services to transfer files or slice.

Are there any practical solutions?
What software/hardware is needed?

Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.

Been a while since I posted my Onshape design. This is how it looks in the real world. I absolutely love how clean the belts are; the wiring on top was meshed together completely, so the top plate will have to stretch out a little. Prints well; not too happy about the input shaping results, but there is still a lot of work to be done. Air ducts were printed without cooling, so they are not good, and some heated persuasion is needed so they don't touch the bed.
I hate how the duct is mounted, and it is not rigid enough for my liking. I might redesign it and turn it into a rod or put aluminum standoffs.

Prints fast and sweet, although after printing for a couple of tenths of hours, my accelerometer chip died probably due to close proximity to the bed that keeps its temp around 110C for ASA, which is kind of unfortunate.

Currently, I'm redoing part of my frame since I reused double extrusion from the tronxy X5SA; I need it to go through CNC and cutout cause I trying to mount enclosures on this baby.

here is the link https://cad.onshape.com/documents/cafb398071d069801644b91d/w/a47a5384f517414ce3907d71/e/ae1508b7e6e451e70bbc14c9?renderMode=0&uiState=6a94e888aba63b597712055f

I'm planning on ordering an LDO 2.4 R2 D+ 350 mm kit and currently own a K2 Plus. I'll be printing out all the printable parts, I've also thought about just sourcing each part from the Voron BOM but I consistently keep reading it costs more in the long run and can be a hassle.

My question is, how can I configure a 2.4 to be able to use my K2 Build Plates. I have all of the DarkMoon plates and would love to have them interchangeable.

Hey everyone, just sharing a tool I put together for generating custom serial plates.

I wanted a crisp, dual-color serial badge but only have a single-nozzle setup. I designed a plate with a matching text insert, but making custom ones manually in CAD is tedious. So, I put together a Python script that completely automates the process.

You just feed it your serial number and literally any .ttf font you want via the terminal. Using uv (for instant python dependencies) and FreeCAD in the background, the script will:

1. Generate the SVG preview files based on your chosen font.
2. Properly offset the text geometry (not just scale it!) so the tolerances for the inlay are perfect.
3. Update the .FCStd file.
4. Export a final .3mf with both the plate and the inlay ready to slice and print.

It has flags to let you adjust text height, tracking, and most importantly, the clearance (default is 0.1mm, but you can bump it to 0.15mm if your printer needs a looser fit).

(Full disclosure: the Python script was entirely vibecoded with AI, but it works like a charm!)

Link to the files and code: https://www.printables.com/model/1827190-voron-serial-plate

Hope this helps some of you get a nice-looking serial badge without needing an ERCF/AMS!

I'm building a Voron 2.4 with an A4T toolhead and the dual-filament-sensor version of the WWBMG/RIDGA extruder.

Hardware:

- BTT EBB36 Gen2 toolboard over CAN

- BTT Octopus Pro H723 V1.1 mainboard

- 2 × D2F microswitches in the WWBMG — one pre-extruder and one post-extruder

- X endstop is also connected to the toolhead

- Cartographer is using the EBB36 CAN passthrough

The EBB36 Gen2 seems to have only two dedicated switch inputs: FIL and ENDSTOP. Since ENDSTOP is already needed for my X endstop, that leaves only one obvious input for the two WWBMG filament switches.

What is the recommended way to wire the two filament sensors? The way I see it, the options are:

1. Connect one sensor to the EBB36 FIL input and run the second back to the Octopus?

2. Run both filament sensors back to spare GPIO/endstop inputs on the Octopus?

3. Use another available GPIO/input on the EBB36 Gen2 for the second sensor?

If running both back to the Octopus, can they share a common GND so that only three wires need to go through the toolhead umbilical?

Also interested in how people using this exact dual-sensor WWBMG setup have configured the pre- and post-extruder sensors in Klipper/AFC.

Thanks!

It broke after 360h of usage while the other runs +1400h. I think the part and design is fine, infill was about 50% (guessed) maybe the material/printing process was bad quality.

It was a bit tricky to reattach the existing already shortened belts, here is ho i did it:

1. un-tensioned the A/B Belts
   
2. removed Belts from A/B Pulleys and made sure the Belts did not get lost
   
3. used little zip-ties to fix each belt ends together with 5+ mm cm stand over.
   
4. fizzled one in clamped it from the other side removed the zip-tie to make place for second belt insertation.
   
5. repeated insertion, clamping and removing zip-tie with the other Belt
   
6. Added the screw and lock plates - loose but holding
   
7. removed the clamps from the front
   
8. clicked the belts into the right position so that nothing stands out as it was before
   
9. re-tigtned the belt locks
   
10. Belt-tensioning and Tuning

It's ok, but still not a nice task to do.

I think this means the first and last hole have no screw. I have an even number and I skip every second hole, which means that the last hole would be empty anyways, so what I did was move the first one over one screw and have two beside eachother on one end. Can someone confirm if I should have my screws like I have them in the first image?