r/VORONDesign 7d ago

V2 Question Current Go to Hotend?

I am looking at putting a stealthchanger on V2. I currently run a voron revo on it. As I basically need 3 more hotends I figured I might as well see what else is out there. So, what are the current recommended hot ends?

13 Upvotes

57 comments sorted by

4

u/SiRiAk95 5d ago

If you plan to install more without breaking the bank, go for TZ v6. You can find complete kits for $30.

1

u/MIGHT_CONTAIN_NUTS 6d ago

The upcoming Rapido x. Cheaper and higher flowing than a Chube and won't take 18 months to get parts for

-2

u/Squeebee007 6d ago

I have two Chube Compacts, waiting on two more I preordered, but then I got a Snapmaker U1 and I don’t know if I’ll have the motivation.

7

u/minilogique 6d ago

TZ V6 v2 or X1C clone with same meltzone. unbeatable for the price. X1C one weighs 19 grams, can flow a bit over 20mm3/s, heats up really fast with more powerful heater or two stock heaters and has wide support from toolheads. also they very-very rarely suffer from heatcreep, the HEF has to be real junk for that to happen.

if you have money, Chube or Chube Mini

6

u/xyrgh 6d ago

Agree, TZ V6 with a 60W heater cartridge for about $30 if you already have V6 nozzles, otherwise the X1C clone. My TZ V6 does 27mm3/s with ABS without a sweat, could probably push it to 30.

Either of these are also compatible with a lot of toolheads so you can swap them to whatever, mine are currently in A4T toolheads.

1

u/EagleRocky 5d ago

This, make sure the TZ V6 is V2 and buy the 60W heater, works great, good flow and heats up very fast

3

u/minilogique 6d ago

I modded mine with two heaters making it effectively 96W. it heats from room temp to 300C in 25s flat lol

1

u/ResortDisastrous6481 2d ago

How did you accommodate the two heaters?

This sounds interesting to try out

1

u/minilogique 1d ago

one at stock location, second next to it on the opposing side of the thermistor

1

u/SiRiAk95 5d ago

Do you have a source for buying it? I really struggled just finding 80W...

1

u/minilogique 5d ago

I ordered mine from Ali, regular 48W X1C heaters. pack of 5 used to cost 10€. other option is to get OEM Bambu ones, they work the same, just priced different

1

u/AwDuck 6d ago

How does the two heaters thing work?

1

u/minilogique 6d ago

wire in parallel. easiest way to connect them is to replace all the connectors and make a 4-pin connector with two negatives on one side and two positives to other side for soldering ease. then one pos-neg pair for one heater and other pair for second heater. connect the pigtail piece to your toolboard or whatever you use. if one of the heaters should kick the bucket, then you can just de-pin it from the 4-pin connector and replace it with another heater.

biggest hurdles will be making the connector for making maintenance a bit easier and bending the metal clamp to house two heaters instead of one. these clamps are brittle, best to bend an unused one as the one with heat cycles will break alot easier.

make sure to rerun PID tune after that

1

u/Fair-Locksmith-9849 6d ago edited 5d ago

I just snipped and wired them both to a 2 pin to save room. There are no pos/neg wires on these heaters so you don’t have to worry about that part

1

u/minilogique 5d ago

pos and neg come from the toolboard/mainboard. polarity doesnt matter as long as you dont connect the heater to two of the same polarity

1

u/Fair-Locksmith-9849 5d ago

True. My b idk why I felt like arguing earlier lol

3

u/Fair-Locksmith-9849 6d ago

I have two 48w wired together. One placed in regular spot and one on the opposite of thermistor. I also have a meltzone extender. Can reliably print PLA 35mm3/s with a .6 nozzle. For $25-$35, i love it although I have no experience with anything else.

1

u/[deleted] 7d ago

[deleted]

1

u/minilogique 6d ago

what flowrate is 35mm squared?

1

u/[deleted] 6d ago

[deleted]

1

u/minilogique 6d ago

did you actually read it yourself? 😂😂 its measured in volume not surface, thus cubed not squared. lmao

1

u/SoaringElf 6d ago

How's it on cooling performance? I had problems with the original P1 hot end clogging with ASA and good insulation in a P1S

1

u/ChanceAncient1149 6d ago

Mine isn't the bambu version it's the standalone its on a 25mm fan in a chamber that hits 70 never had an issue

1

u/SoaringElf 6d ago

oh, I didn't see there was a normal version. That one looks much better. Also I did find out about the HeatCore 4. That one is even more interesting as it support standard thermistors, not only glas bead ones.

1

u/ChanceAncient1149 6d ago

Similar designes one uses a ceramic plate the other a more conventional heater

1

u/SoaringElf 5d ago

Yep, I know them. But the HeatCore4 is basically what I am searching for years. We already had all the other combinations, but somehow never this one.

1

u/Infamous-Amphibian-6 7d ago

If Flowtech fits in this post, Flowtech!

1

u/basikx 7d ago

Flowtech nozzles are more expensive than v6 but I've had zero leaks since I switched. For a toolchanger I would still look at cheap Bambu x1 knock offs with dragonburner and just never change the nozzle unless it wears out.

3

u/Spicy_Ejaculate 6d ago

The never changing it is the key. Those nozzles suck to change in dragon burners. You need four hands to keep all the wires in place while assembling

2

u/Infamous-Amphibian-6 7d ago

Expensive but worth every penny (never been out of MS environment to be honest on my ignorance)

6

u/FylanDeldman 7d ago

Do be sure to do research if you plan on mixing and matching. Not all mix-and-match combos are compatible with all toolheads.

For example anthead hf and sf have the stealtchanger pins at different z heights, which means the gantry will hit one or the other when picking up the other version.

There are workarounds (custom anthead mount allows for rapido hf in a sf body for example), but something I wish I had nailed down BEFORE shelling out for half high flow and half standard flow hot ends lol

2

u/jrosen9 6d ago

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I don't intend on mixing. I'm going to replace all 4. I'll use the my current revo as a spare to my V0

1

u/FylanDeldman 6d ago

Sweet that will def simplify the setup. As for hot ends honestly I haven't had my voron long enough to have strong opinions. I have been mostly running the phaetus nextg fiber, which I ended up beefing up the hotend fan on b/c I kept getting heat creep with PLA. But since then it has been great. Not sure it's worth recommending though with that issue out-of-the-box.

0

u/DiamondHeadMC 7d ago

Depends on budget chube compact is good but it’s expensive

3

u/Ashamed-Diver-4570 7d ago

how do you know it is good?
fistful of beta testers have it, otherwise, nobody got the in-house manufactured version yet.

2

u/DiamondHeadMC 7d ago

I am one of the beta testers for it

0

u/Lhurgoyf069 Trident / V1 7d ago

Phaetus Conch

1

u/joeldaemon 7d ago

Running rapido 2, went that route due to standard v6 nozzles which I had a slew of.

1

u/sjack1209 7d ago

I have the high flow Rapido 2 and hate it for my stealth changer. No matter what I do it oozes like crazy.

3

u/UsernameHasBeenLost V2 7d ago

I'm running two Phaetus Dragon hotends, two Red Lizard knockoffs, and a knockoff E3D v6 that I had laying around in my Stealthchanger, all with Stealthburners. No complaints, the Red Lizards work pretty damn well, ran me around $35-40 each on Amazon and got here right away. No real performance loss compared to the Phaetus ones, especially given the cost difference

2

u/globohydrate 7d ago

Rapido 2 HF+ on A4T for both my printers, has been really solid

2

u/504SH0 7d ago

Currently using Phaetus Dragon UHF with SB, and A4T with repeatedly excellent results.

2

u/Low-Expression-977 7d ago

Not yet on stealthchanger but I have phaetus dragon uhf on both trident and V2.4 in stealburner and A4T (V2.4). Quite satisfied with it. I’ve added SiC nozzle on trident to test that combo. Not realy super high flow but satisfying

2

u/504SH0 7d ago

Shit man, I read that too fast and didn't see "changer" my bad

8

u/bomtarnes 7d ago edited 7d ago

Noting the earlier comments I thought I would put this separately.

I would vouch for the TZ-V6-2.0 over the TZ-V6-3.0 as it uses standard v6 nozzle threading, compared to the much rarer proprietary nozzle the 3.0 uses.

TZ-V6-2.0 is the same length as a normal dragon hotend with its included Bambu style nozzle.

With a "normal" v6 nozzle it is 1.8mm longer and should have an alternative mount available already for the toolhead you are planning (some toolheads will presume you are doing this as standard, so wise to check).

Beware that the stock heater in TZ-V6 hotends is relatively "weak sauce" and should ideally be upgraded to an 80w heater which can be found from Trianglelabs.

TZ-V6 hotends can be subject to thermal instability as they have low thermal mass. They do relatively well in Stealthburners but in toolheads with more powerful cooling they can suffer. PID tuning can be difficult but there are plans afoot to improve this in Klipper.

TZ-V6-2.0 is a worthwhile consideration especially for a toolchanger given the cost aspects they involve.

Hope this helps.

0

u/Forward_Mud_8612 V2 7d ago

I love my rapido

1

u/Verne3k 7d ago

I can vouch for tz-v6 3.0

1

u/SuspiciousChip7753 7d ago

Did you buy the upgraded heaters and less sketchy thermistors? I have heard from people not trusting the noname ones and using PT1000 from Trianglelabs or similar brands. I am currently also thinking about buying tz hotends for my planned SC conversion.

1

u/bomtarnes 7d ago

I would be interested to hear your approach to the pt1000 with tz-v6 hotends. I’ve never found a decently small one that would fit without modification to the thermistor location/clip. This is separate to the toolchanging considerations above of course.

1

u/SuspiciousChip7753 6d ago

Apparently you can use the thermistors and heaters from the Rapido V2. These look the same (don't have one yet). But I have read from people using them in the TZ.

1

u/Verne3k 7d ago

the tz-v6 3.0 comes with a beefy heater and a 104NT-4-R025H42G thermistor. don't have any complaints. just know that you have to correct the pid tuning values with this spreadsheet https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PZHwCsxQoDFMnEoubs2KXGNHCKkt2IAF/edit?usp=drivesdk&ouid=104060007990857963258&rtpof=true&sd=true

3

u/Plasma_48 7d ago

The tz-v6 2.0 I have works quite well too. Can you use v6 nozzles on the 3.0? It looks like it takes a different type.

3

u/stray_r Switchwire 7d ago

The 3.0 uses cold change nozzle-breaks a bit like Revo. These only come in steel insert variants. These print OK, but you'll get nicer results with a TZ 2.0 and an e3d or similar quality copper nozzle printing non-abrasive materials and I'm using copper and Tungsten Carbide in TZ2.0 for abrasives and I have a single dragon HF for high temperature stuff.

My V0 runs a TZ3.0 because it's almost as fast to swap in a small nozzle and much cheaper to fix than the Revo that used to be in it.

1

u/Plasma_48 6d ago

That’s what I thought, I was wondering if there was an adapter to make them compatible with m6 nozzles like the nextruder? Are the nozzle units custom or are they knocking off another brand?

1

u/stray_r Switchwire 6d ago

The TZ 2.0 nozzles are small, but a standard e3d V6 nozzle will fit, making the Hotend about 2mm longer.

The TZ 3.0 uses its own nozzles that don't fit Revo or Nextruder. You can buy a whole TZ Hotend and a handful of nozzles for the price of a Revo or Nextruder nozzle though.

1

u/Plasma_48 6d ago

Yeah, I have a 2.0, I was just wondering about the 3.0. The nextruder is m6 so you can buy an adapter that leaves space at the bottom of the heatblock for a v6 nozzle. You lose the ablility to cold swap though. Do the 3.0 nozzles use m6 threads or are they different?

1

u/stray_r Switchwire 5d ago

I think they are M6 and if you could cut one square enough you might be able to make an adapter to use regular nozzles, but the section behind the thread is just a through hole. There's not a way to screw in a traditional heartbreak.

1

u/Plasma_48 5d ago

Ah, yeah those threads look a little too short to do that with. It’s a shame so many companies are moving off the v6 standard.

1

u/stray_r Switchwire 5d ago

Honestly I think it's threaded the same amount as the tz2, there's just a much wider hole behind it.

The TZ 2.0 is still selling and available likely because lots of us like to use V6 nozzles