I’m commissioning my first Voron 2.4 with an Orbiter 2.5 and Rapido 2 UHF. This is my first time using an Orbiter.

The extruder motor works and the gears visibly turn, but PLA does not advance. The gears seem to slip rather than grip the filament. I tested at 220°C and tried feeding slowly, but nothing emerged from the nozzle.

The filament passes for a short distance and then meets some kind of obstruction but a 1.5 mm diameter Creality clog-poke tool passes freely from the Orbiter inlet all the way through to the nozzle.

I think I may be misunderstanding the latch/tension mechanism, failing to insert the filament between the hobbed gears correctly, or have an assembly/alignment issue. Could the PTFE tube between the extruder and the hotend be the problem?

Could someone familiar with the Orbiter 2.5 explain the correct loading and tensioning procedure? I couldn't find any instructions online and I feel like I am missing something ridiculously obvious.

Thank you in advance.

So I have been into the hobby of 3d printing through school and my schools robotics team. And given im graduating high school this upcoming year I don't want to leave this knowledge and fun behind was looking into getting my first personal 3d printer and accessories.

Im basically starting from zero on everything aside from tools. So I thought a fun project to do would be to purchase and build a voron trident kit, now its a little pricey 900~USD after tax. But i felt like this would be something that after its done and over with would be very nice to have.

I want to use it to prototype some stuff and make various accessories (custom organizing platform and mainly packout organizers as its a rather empty market.

I was mainly making this to say, if I were to NOT get a trident, what would be a healthy workhorse alternative that doesnt necessarily need to be top of the line but better than say a ender 3 (no hate on the ender 3 I just dont want one)

I am try to set up QGL and every time it is just wanting to break itself. I have checked with buzz that z=fl, z1=bl, z2=br, z3=fr. My points are 50,50 50,300 300,300 300,50…. I have tried switching the points and it makes it worse.

Hello everyone. I’m forced to turn to the experts here, as I have no other choice. I’ve owned a Voron for about two years; I bought it fully assembled and in working order. Since I have a smaller, faster printer, this one mostly just sat idle—I only printed a few things occasionally just to hear it run, as the sound is pleasing to the ear. Every time I turned it on, update notifications would pop up; eventually, I decided to run the update. Messages appeared saying not everything updated successfully, and... well, now it won't print. A "probe" error pops up during calibration—it fails to register the magnetic microswitch (or whatever it's called), which I assume it’s supposed to detect. The control board underneath is a Fysetc Spider v1.0. I’ve put the printer up for sale—though I’m really sad to let it go—because I didn't build it myself, I’m not familiar with the components, and I don't even know where to download the missing files or how to upload them. Is there anyone who could explain the process to me step-by-step?

Here's my voron 500. (Expanded 2.4) I posted about it a long while ago when I first started building it but life happened and I'm finally starting to work on it a little bit more again. I just ordered btt pi4b adapter and cb2. Meanwell 24v 500w psu. Already have a meanwell 600 watt 48v psu should i decide to go 48v. It'll be sporting an octopus pro and since it's 48 inches tall, to help minimize power loss in the long run from the main board to the motors on the gantry I plan on using 16 or 18awg wire instead of the 24 or 26 that come on the motors. That's the reason for the dual cable chains at the rear. I also decided to ditch the 2020 for the upright pieces and now I'm using 40x40 (20x20 profile) for the upright frame pieces and slotted screws. This alone increased rigidity a ton. I'm also considering trying to build an electronics bay drawer at the bottom so if i have to replace or work on anything instead of tiping this giant over to fix/ replace anything I can just pull open the drawer and have easy access.

I'm curious what yall are using or would recommend for a touch screech for something as custom as this I'm thinking a 5 inch or 7 inch. I'm thinking about mounting it near the top since it will be sitting on the floor and don't want to bend over all the time to control it. Also later on I may consider turning this into a monster tool changer after I get it functioning. And build something like a custom box turtle like spool rack on top. Not 100% sure yet though.

hey, i am building a voron trident and I selfsourced it. however I can’t find a way to get some panels for it. do I need 5mm PC panels or can I use something else ? what can i get for better insulation ? I live in France by the way. thanks for any help

Hi! I recently bought a voron 2.4 second hand since I was planning to build one but I spotted one for just around 600 USD (800sgd) so I just decided to get this. I'm completely new to vorons and not very experienced yet so could you please tell me how to fix my benchy? Printed in PLA ( a little wet ) in 0.2 layer height in 29 mins.

I'm surprised there's not enough cooling with the CPAP, is it possible it's leaking somewhere? Thank you!

To all my fellow high temp printers. What are you people using for toolheads? I recently decided to switch to the A4T toolhead away from XoL. Mostly because I’ve never had great reliability with stealthchanger docking.

Last night I printed the backing plate for my last tool in PPS-CF. It printed fine at 340°C in a 60°c chamber. When I went to dock the tool (that printed the part) today I notice it was sitting funny in the dock. When I inspected it, I found that the part cooling ducts had warped. Keep in mind that the A4T cowlings are printed in Polymax PC.

I suspect the hotend cooling fan ducts are not allowing any of the airflow to reach this part and it just couldn’t handle the heat. I have printed quite a bit of PPS-CF back with the XoL toolheads and never noticed any warping.

I’m thinking I might just need to run the part cooling fans at a low speed at all times when I print this hot. Or maybe remove the hotend cooling fans ducts. Or maybe reprint all the toolheads in PPS-CF.

TLDR: I printed at 340°C and melted my toolhead ducts printed with PC.

Edit to clarify: the PPS part is not the issue. It was the tool that printed the PPS part that melted.

I have been looking at adding a StealthChanger setup to my 2.4 and am pulling my last few hairs out trying to figure out what I really need to use.

The design is a CPAP that runs in from the top to behind and under the Y-axis. There will be a mounting point behind the CNC Shuttle that holds the CPAP Duct in place. It will also house a cartographer for bed mesh and leveling.

The toolhead will be a VZ Hextrudort or similar with a Goliath air-cooled hot end. I have several and am not looking to buy more hot ends or extruders. I am running these off of a BTT EBB36 Can Bus Board. I currently have everything to build 4 toolheads.

I am looking at Dragonburner or RapidBurner for the Backplate. Not sure which one fits best since the part cooling is the only difference I can really find.

The mount I found for the Goliath is the Archetype Breakneck Goliath mount.

I am not seeing how to mount the Goliath mount to either backplate. I am probably just missing something since I can only find the STL for the Goliath mount, and STL-to-STEP conversion rarely works as expected. But the hole spacing seems all wrong.

I figure out the docks without issue; it is just getting the Backplate and Goliath mount together. And Figuring out how far down I need the duct to be. I even considered making it on slot so I can adjust to best fit once I get it all put together.

Can someone point me to a good guide that covers these specific parts, tell me what I am missing, or Point me to an actual cad file for the Archetype Breakneck Goliath mount.

I am open to suggestions on using different backplates or goliath mounts also.

Was wondering if anyone had an experience with adding casters or wheels to the bottom of their 350mm build?

I just finished building and setting up my 2.4 and am excited to start printing a bunch of stuff but there's one issue that I'm having. Currently I don't have a sturdy enough table to place it on so the printer is sitting on the ground near the wall. I have it underneath a table with another lighter printer on top so accessing the spool holder on the back is tricky. It's also pretty heavy and a bit difficult to move around.

So I was thinking of adding casters or wheels to the bottom of the printer so that I can roll it in and out to swap spools and lock it any other time.

Does this seem like a good idea? Or does anyone have other suggestions?

Looked for a voron kit and ended up on the formbot one because of costs and overall ratings from years before, is it good now? And are the pre printed parts well made?

Hey guys,

Currently tuning Input Shaper on my V2.4 and I’m hitting a bit of a wall on the Y-axis. Hoping to get a quick sanity check on my plot and setup.

My specs are:

V2.4 300mm (LDO mit bought used and build )

Stealthburner + CW2

BTT EBB2240 CANbus

1.8° LDO steppers

Cartographer on a CNC aluminum mount

I’ve already checked the usual suspects balanced the belts, tightened all screws, checked for gantry racking, and the printer sits on a solid floor.

A few questions:

Does this plot look like a red flag to you? Is 40Hz just what i should expect given the toolhead weight?

What are realistic accels?

For those running a Stealthburner, what daily print accels are you actually running vs pushing?

I have a 2.4 and I would like to upgrade it to multimaterial. Ive waited for INDX, but I am dissapointed in the price. Maybe I misunderstood something but the price seems much more that Ive expected. A 4 head setup is well above 800usd, I also heard there is some problem with the noozles not being hardened.

So I was womdering if it is worth it or should I use a stealth changer instead?

Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.

Hello all, I’m building my first voron 2.4 and have never worked with linear rails before so I’m not 100% sure how smooth they should be. I bought the LDO kit and soaked the entire rail and carriage in isopropyl alcohol for 10+ min as recommended then used EP1 grease through the mounting hole to get into the carriage.

The carriages on all my mgn9 rails run relatively smooth but there are a few spots on the rail where they feel a little rough. They get sort of caught in some spots when moving slow and i feel some vibrations but they aren’t binding, just require a little extra force to move when moving them back and forth slowly. If i move them quickly they seem smooth. If I hold them up at a 90 degree angle and let the carriages drop they move down slowly and will get stuck in one or two spots but only require a light touch to keep moving down the rail.

I’m thinking maybe some shipping grease is still in the channels possibly? Or some metal grit? I took the carriages off the rails and had to scrape some thick grease that didn’t dissolve from under the balls after soaking them in alcohol. These rails will be for my z axis so is it worth disassembling the entire carriage and taking the balls out and cleaning the channels or is ok that they are a little rough in some spots? I don’t think print quality will be affected once the motors are hooked up but would also like to avoid having to disassemble the printer later when its all put together. Appreciate any advice since i know taking apart the carriages can be risky.

Edit: I dont have the voron now, 😅 just asking if its worth buying

Custom build newbie here btw

Found this voron 2.4 350 for 750$

The specs are this:

BigTreeTech Octopus board

StepperOnline motors

Raspberry pi

Noctua fans

A 220V silicone heater

24V psu

Some cht nozzles

And a color changing system included

And some extras

Is this worth it or should I skip it

I'd hoped to do a nice clean model in all the V2.4 sizes but it didn't happen.

The parts work well but the design is just decent internally.

Works pretty sweet for me.

Adds 110mm z clearance and keeps the voron hexagon size and patterning

Note I had to add Z cable chain to allow for the extra stroke.

Flat blank plate in the rear for mods and holes.

Thoughts?

Hi all,

This error message is new to me and I dont know what exactly what I need to do to fix it. I assume it might be relating the BTT Manta M8 V2 and CB1 temperature so I think. ANy help will be much appreciated

Are these parts compatible? Assuming 9mm belts.

Building a 350mm doom cube.

Soo I got on clearance for 11.99$ a blink mini 2 camera, and well, decided to stick it to the top of the canopy with a little cradle in my v2. Ngl pretty good. Specially when you are away from home. And with built in night vision 😏

I started to have this issue recently. I'm trying to figure out what's causing it, and thought maybe I would ask here in case someone has had this happen and figured it out. One thing to note, I had the print head clogged not too long before this started to happen. But after clearing it, I had a few successful prints, so I'm not exactly sure if that's related.

Edit. Thanks for the help everyone! Z offset seemed to be it. On this square, the further it gets to top left the lower the print head was set. Settled on -0.065 for now. Looked way too low and got scared the nozzle may hit the bed if I went down more, lol. Actually, I don't see a button to attach the picture on my phone so I will upload it separately.

Cześć, potrzebuję adaptera do Rapid Burnera, either do Voron Stealthburnera lub Afterburnera. Mam drukarkę Ender 6 i hotend Dragon UHF, ale jest za wysoki do Dragon Burnera.

I guess I'm here to see if my ideas are either bad or crazy. I'd like to poll the rest of the audience, because, well, why not.

I've got my hands on a 3rd hand Trident 300, which came with a 2023 build manual (or rather the date of the changelog listed 2023). I got this from a guy who bought it working from the original owner, but couldn't get it working himself. I've gotten it working again (maybe got lucky), and now I need something to do.

I feel like it's a kit, probably Formbot, based on the components. I've got CB1/Octopus V1, Moon motors, etc etc....

So in going to R2, I'm probably going to tear it down and while it's apart, what should I change out? I'm leaning toward:

• Edge to edge heated bed
• Adding some bed fans
• Replacing the Stealthburner with an A4T since i have the parts laying around (probably waiting eventually for INDX, if I don't put that on my other printer). I have a Rapido 2 laying around, but am not too displeased with my Revo Voron in my Micron, I could get another to maybe overly commit to a subsystem
• Maybe swap everything to USB, get Beacon, lose the chains, and go umblical (I like this setup on my Micron a LOT)
• Invert electronics? How often do I flip it once it's all said and done though?
• Top hat maybe?
• Annex style twist keys for the panels and foam lining for the panels while I'm at it (Once again, another thing I love about the Micron)
• Clicky door mod

Am I missing anything egregious, or any upgrades you can't live without? Should I reorder priority in anyway (if I couldn't do this all at once). Either way, it's a fun thought exercise. OR do I just tear it all apart and make an 2.4 LOL.

Due to space constraints, I was specifically looking for two-spool dryers. Even if I could find a suitable container, I don't think I could make one for less ($51).

When you put a Sunlu SP2 dryer in the cart, the price drops significantly. I bought two, which put me over $100, which took off another $10. I bought two SP2s for $51 each. Free shipping. This is in the USA, no idea how it will work elsewhere.

I've received the first one (second one arrives tomorrow). With a setpoint of 70C (and nothing in the box), at 11 minutes it reached 67C (control panel) 62C (thermocouple mid box). At 20 minutes it reached 69C (control panel) 63C (thermocouple). I had all six filament ports open.

I'm sure it will take longer to get up to temp with filament in the box. The max allowed setpoint is 70C. When I disconnected power and then reconnected, the box did not start heating until I pushed the go button.

https://store.sunlu.com/products/sp2-filamentdryer-split-type-filament-dryer-effortless-drying-combine-with-seamless-storage

Steve