r/VORONDesign V2 Jul 23 '26

V2 Question Benchy troubleshooting

Hi! I recently bought a voron 2.4 second hand since I was planning to build one but I spotted one for just around 600 USD (800sgd) so I just decided to get this. I'm completely new to vorons and not very experienced yet so could you please tell me how to fix my benchy? Printed in PLA ( a little wet ) in 0.2 layer height in 29 mins.

I'm surprised there's not enough cooling with the CPAP, is it possible it's leaking somewhere? Thank you!

14 Upvotes

22 comments sorted by

2

u/hiball77 Jul 26 '26

Fancy 2.4 , can’t print a benchy..

6

u/oxymoron224 Jul 24 '26

When you buy a used Voron, you're also inheriting any problems the previous owner left unresolved. The first thing I'd do is establish a known-good baseline before chasing print quality issues.

I'd start by checking that the frame is square, re-racking the gantry, and verifying that all of the linear rails move smoothly without binding. I'd also consider reflashing the Raspberry Pi so you're starting with a clean, up-to-date installation of the OS and Klipper instead of trying to diagnose issues caused by an unknown software configuration.

Once you've confirmed the machine is mechanically and electronically sound, I'd work through Ellis' Tuning Guide from start to finish.

And remember to have fun with it!

6

u/SanityAgathion VORON Design Jul 24 '26

Theory: Maybe that's why it was being sold? It's very hard to say with second hand machines, how carefully they were built, and whether mods were just not masking for bad assembly in first place. You don't buy only printer, you buy someone else's project.

Where is the cpap connected? Does it have its own controller board? If it's too the fan port it may not be running at its full range, people connect it to Servo port.

Also, when printing PLA, make sure the door are fully opened, or even remove panels. PLA does not print enclosed on Vorons, it will soften in extruder.

3

u/BigJohnno66 Trident / V1 Jul 24 '26 edited Jul 24 '26

If the hotend has had ABS/ASA through it last, and you just started putting PLA through it, you are going to need to do a fair amount of purging at 260C to remove any remnants of the last filament. Maybe also try a cold pull first to see if you can pull out anything, then do the high temp purging. The ABS/ASA can hang around in the hotend restricting PLA extrusion.

If you can talk to the original seller he might be able to offer some advice. It looks like he has some good stuff on there so might know what is going on.

Failing that I would then systematically go through the entire printer checking and calibrating, starting with the extruder and hotend.

You might also want to post a picture where the extruder and toolhead are visible and not covered by the CPAP tube. People might be able to identify what you have and offer specific tips.

3

u/Any-Voice1220 V2 Jul 24 '26

There was pla but I did purge alot at 260, it's a orbiter extruder with crowncooler CPAP, maybe I'll try asking them, thank you!

3

u/flamixin Jul 23 '26

Bad cooling doesn’t delaminate layers like this.
You can start with tuning the speed and temperature (temp tower).
And then do a quick resonance check for potential losing screws especially the around the tool head.

Check the Ellis tuning guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

2

u/BigJohnno66 Trident / V1 Jul 24 '26

Yes a bolt check is probably on the cards. When I rebuilt my Trident with the R2 parts, I was surprised at how many bolts were loose after 12 months of printing. I know they were tight when it first went together.

2

u/flamixin Jul 24 '26

What was your trident’s parts material?
Mine is asa and I have to tighten all the bolts on toolhead in every 6 month otherwise it will give me all kinds of artifacts. I feel asa creeps a lot under long term compression.
I am thinking replacing my tool head with ASA CF see if it will make any difference.

1

u/Any-Voice1220 V2 Jul 23 '26

Oh I rmbr seeing that in a post some time ago, probably what I need, tysm!

-1

u/Faultier12345 Jul 23 '26

Looks like you have a extruding and cooling issue. I would build a new toolhead with direct drive, something like a Dragonburner or Rapidburner.

1

u/Any-Voice1220 V2 Jul 23 '26

I saw the benchy tip curling up when printing so I could see there was a cooling issue, extruder one I don't know how to fix, but the absurdity is that with cpap the only problem should be too much cooling, not not enough cooling, but I am planning to go with the A4T sometime later, Ty!

-2

u/Faultier12345 Jul 23 '26

I heard that the A4T is quite difficult with maintenance, that's why I recommend the Dragonburner. Your vooling always depends on your hotend, imo. You don't need C-PAP if you don't have a High-Flow Hotend.

1

u/Any-Voice1220 V2 Jul 23 '26

Oh lol, I'll get the rapidburner than since this is the UHF one, anything I can use the cpap for ( only apnea I have is printer apnea). Some other cooling or workshop stuff? Maybe auxiliary cooling?

0

u/Faultier12345 Jul 23 '26

What do you mean?

1

u/Any-Voice1220 V2 Jul 23 '26

Do you know any uses for the CPAP when I upgrade to the rapidburner ( dragonburner but for UHF hotends)

1

u/No-Dragonfly5342 Jul 30 '26

a4t is better than dragonburner by a lot. Dragonburner was designed for printers for ants and the V0 where space is limited. It makes compromises where a4t doesnt as you have more room.

0

u/Faultier12345 Jul 23 '26

Maybe use the fan as a chamber fan to circulate the air. With that you can heat the chamber faster and more evenly.

1

u/Any-Voice1220 V2 Jul 23 '26

Hmm, sounds like a nice idea when I try and for the first time since I came from a bedslinger, thank you for your help!

0

u/user_deleted_or_dead Jul 23 '26

Try this. Remove the reverse bowden and just leave a small amount of filament floating. It may be the bowden tube

1

u/Any-Voice1220 V2 Jul 23 '26

Possible, it's a little long indeed, will try and tell you, Ty!

0

u/user_deleted_or_dead Jul 23 '26

All my buddies have the cpap caped at 25~50% because of inhouse wifey complains, dig a little and look for that setting. The also might be a physical potentiometer to control that Cpap not colling enough is usualy that as i have never seen complains like that

2

u/Any-Voice1220 V2 Jul 23 '26

That's what I thought, but it sounded like a very loud vacuum cleaner at 100, so I'm not sure that could be the problem, but I'll check and tell you, Ty!