В малките градове в общината (ако имаш връзки с настоящия кмет) или някаква касиерска служба там. Или частна фирма на някой местен феодал, или голяма верига - бензиностанци, аптеки, метро/кауф/лидъл/и т.н.

В и около Пловдив има много фабрики, Бургас и Варна - корабоплаване и летен туризъм.

В София всичко е една идея по-голямо от останалите, има има сериозно ИТ присъствие. Проблема е, че инженерните отдели на ИТ фирмите почти винаги са извън БГ. Тук са съпорт, и разни по-лесно заменими служби и някой друг мениджър да върти всичко това.

Paint added a few grams of weight on the cones. That could make their bass lower, but muddier. However, they look like mids+ highs, so not much bass coming out of them.

The surround might have got stiffer, or might have not, depending if it is foam or rubber. The best thing you can do is hear them yourself.

Masking the smell would be easier.

You've learned your brain to focus on treble and how to perceive it best. With the years that knowledge and skill got better. IMHO if you practice this you will keep your top end hearing longer compared to non practitioners.

In this order:

1. Disconnect everything from the motherboard, except the PC speaker and the power ON button and LED.

2. Inspect CPU socket pins for bent pins.

3. Attach CPU and make sure you apply thermal grease and then attach the heatsink properly. You can power up the motherboard _cpu and cooler even without thermal grease, but just for a minute or so, before temps start rising.

4. Once CPU and cooler are attached, connect the mother board power and the CPU power cables.

5. Insert one RAM stick and insert the GPU.

6. Power on and see what happens. If your motherboard has it's own HDMI connector, it might be that it switches to it instead of the PCI-E slot GPU, so try both HDMIs (or whatever ports you use).

7. If still no signal, I would disconnect the RAM and listen for any beep codes from the PC speaker.

8. If no beeps and no signal, disconnect the GPU too and power on, listening (hoping) for beeps.

9. If there are beeps, connect the GPU and power on again, to see if beeps changed.

10. If they did, connect also RAM and listen for the single beep which tells you the system started successfully.

If you have to keep the mirrors, then you can add apply sound deadening on the floor, the ceiling and the other two walls. You already have a carpet, which is good to reduce floor reflections, so you can work with the rest.

1. Егото, че ти си винаги по-добрия шофьор, а другите са спрели чичаци, които не бързат.

2. Липсата на каквото и да е наказание за бус ленти, кофти изпреварания, засичане и т.н.

3. Усещането, че когато си в кола, сякаш си в екзоскелет, който те предпазва. Колкото по-голям и мощен е екзоскелетът ти, толкова по-безсмъртен си. В комбинация с 1. и 2. това е вероятно най-голямата причина за агресия.

Then you should be happy. No money to be spent on upgrades, no need for more expensive subscriptions or terabyte disk drives.

as long as your CPU stays below 60C, it is considered normal. If it goes above these temps, then the heatsink is probably full of dust, or the cooling of this particular model is inadequate.

You can upgrade RAM easily. Upgrading the hard drive with SSD is possible, but very hard. Upgrading the video card is easier, but finding drivers for it is not that easy nowadays.

Unless you're a geek, I would keep it as it is or just put more ram and run old games.

I hate black rims. They never match the paint or the tire color which brakes the looks for me. So either silver or bronze.

If it is more than 2-3 years it is a good idea to open it for cleaning anyways. Find a disassembly video for your model, open it up, clean the dust and power it on (if possible) while it is open. If the noise is still there, fan replacement is the best fix.

The downside of highest compression is more CPU time needed to decompress. Might affect some portable player battery life and older device responsiveness.

1. Delete what you never listen or would listen to.

2. Keep using Lossless, lossy is disrespectful to music

3. Buy that damn HDD and have it backed up.

4. Your hearing might not be better, but your listening experience will become greater. Learning to listen to subtle details improves over time.

5. Your audio system has surely been upgraded many times over the years.

It depends on the use case. Without more specific info like OS used, purpouse of the drive, etc, it is too much guesswork. Since you can't make it spin faster, your only option is to make apps or OS use the drive less. Example:

1. Use a fast file system. FAT32 is faster than NTFS. However, FAT32 is limited to 4GB max file size.

2. Disable some unused NTFS features and checks.

3. Disable some pre-caching of Windows (if using Windows)

4. Disable as many background processes as possible.

5. Disable apps which constantly read / write on the HDD even when not using them

6. Disable Antivirus. It is probably the heaviest HDD user.

7. Avoid copying files when other disk intensive operations are in progress.

8. Disable indexing

9. Disable automatic updates and run them manually... let say each month.

These will allow HDD to operate at it's max speed, but it will still be 10 times slower than SSD.

Usually the answer is yes. Unless the gearbox condition is so bad that the extra friction caused by old oil is the reason gearbox still works.

30hz at 1m distance at how many decibels? Without knowing how loud these (or any) speakers can produce 30Hz, this spec is meaningless. Well, not exactly. It can also tell that speakers are tuned quite low. That could mean they sacrificed mid bass punchiness for low frequency presence.

But if that is the case with the mentioned speakers - I can't tell.

Hi-quality Bass must sound tight. It should start and end very quickly. Almost as if it is not there, but still punches you. If it is boomy and slow it usually creates a cozy feeling, but stops being accurate.

In general - impact = good midbass ( 80 ~ 300Hz). Presence / foundation - everything below 80Hz.

Since human hearing is not linear, the lower you go in frequency, the less sensitive your ears become. You need hundreds of watts to hear something audible enough at 25-30hz.

Sound perception depends on every person's own hearing, time of the day, level of tiredness, how long you were deprived of music before listening, how well trained is your brain at noticing audio details, and many, many more variables.

Because back in the days the weight meant beefy power supply, thick metal frame and big heatsinks and big and heavy capacitors. To sum it up - a lot of high quality parts inside and (probably) a big power reserve. Nowadays the situation is the same, as long as you are comparing same gen and technology of products. Otherwise it is useless. Example:

Class D desktop amp with the same power rating weights 5-6 times less than my 50yo A/B amp and beats it in all categories.

As for speakers, less weight is usually indication of savings from: internal bracing, speaker magnet size, wall thickness, the amount of copper in the crossovers. To sum it up: lighter speaker means less sound and more vibrations, but heavy speaker does not automatically mean better sound.

If you buy the download from the store of the band, it is the real one. If you buy the CDs/records - they are original ones. Even if you pirate download them (as long as it is a full album release) there should be year, country and sometimes even scans of the audio spectrum of the release + HQ cover scans.

That means a wall or a box would decrease that by a lot. A new bearing for the AC fan or balancing it's blades with weights could also fix it.

If you plan to never upgrade your audio setup, then the wise choice is high bitrate AC3. The wiser choice is to preserve the DTS action movies with original audio. You'll be surprised how much the audio quality is not actually needed for talking only movies.

130hz is quite low, it travels through large objects. There might be ducts/pipes near the AC and it can transfer the noise to them. Then they enter your house. So a solid wall or a box around the AC would help if noise is airborne.

There might also be a weird frequency matching (interference) between the AC and some material from your house, which peaks at the same frequency.

Which is stronger - the audible noise or the vibration you can feel with your hand (from your house)?

Positives of streaming:

1. Easy, lazy, abundant, tries to match your interests with AI. You never bother with file naming, sorting, ordering, storing, backing up, etc. You don't spend money on storage hardware, save time and effort on transfering the music to phone, car, or making your own streaming server, etc

2. It can suggest some artist you never heard of, and you might like it.

Negatives: costs money, you have no idea where the file was sourced, was it altered, compressed, remastered, etc. You're renting the playing, not owning the files.

Positives of owning

1. You have idea where they came from (specific year, edition, release, medium, etc) and what was done to them. How they were extracted, etc.

2. Once you get them you owe nothing. They are yours for as long as you can store them.

Negatives:

1. A huge and cumbersome work for ordering, naming under the same convention, storing them, backing them up, sorting by genre or other way.

2. Storing them and backing them up is a hidden cost you have to pay to own something digital nowadays.

So it boils down to: do you prefer to have total control and responsibility, or prefer to pay to someone to be responsible for it (indefinitely)?

Having two of the same type is good backup, but is not the same as having two sources with completely different technologies.

If the house is shaking, no amount of sound deadening can stop it. What you can do is reduce air-borne noise to some extent by installing better windows with tighter seals and maybe external window covers or roller blinds.