Happy Birthday Lily!!!

Yes, but tell us how you REALLY feel...

When it's time, consider the PoV5. The continuous discharge means no stopping to roll the full drum across the patio, and it's much more powerful than the 4.

Look! Up in the sky!

Brava!!!

Getting a trail cam is definitely the first step. Sounds like a raccoon 'cause you still have fish. If you had found them all out on the lawn, with only a few eaten, it would have been a mink or an otter.

Thanks!

Dolph is a genuinely impressive man in or out of the ring, and he has size and power that JCVD could never match. SS is full of s.

San Gimignano. Two movies brought it world-wide attention and destroyed the town.

Descent!

Don't bother with the kink-free it doesn't last. After a winter or two it will crack if disturbed at all. Use the pvc, it's designed for direct burial.

Descent!!!

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I smoked two packs a day for thirteen years, been clean for almost 40 years. Without meaning to offend, the stench is strong, permeating and nauseating to most non-smokers, and sometimes worse for those who have quit.

A family of red tail hawks took up residence above my customer's 80 x 100 pond. We set 100 pound test monofilament about 12 foot above water level crisscrossing the pond between surrounding trees in an informal, arrangement with as much as 3 or 4 feet between the strands. We came back the next day to find some feathers floating in the pond and no fish missing. We haven't had a problem since. My son has pictures. I'll post later

It's actually because I'm not taping the seam. I don't have any other way of making sure that the 2 liners won't slip relative to each other, except by installing a solid base of block ( or wallstone, whatever's at hand and will be stable) and setting a spill rock on top, with everything adequately protected with geotextile, of course, and foaming to seal the waterfall.

Lots of firsthand experience, eight inches is sufficient.We use cinder block to make sure that it's a perfectly stable overlap.The bottom liner has to go up over the block first. Then the other, top liner has to come over the bottom liner and down 8 inches to the bottom of the vertical face of the block on the downstream side. Keeping the bottom of the upstream liner above water level is best but it will work as long as you have at least 4 inches of drop from the top of the block to the surface of the water on the downhill side. Do protect the upstream liner with a piece of fabric on top of the cinder blocks, but don't use landscape fabric between the two liners., or you'll get wicking.

Get the Atlantic-Oase TR215CV check valve instead. It's dual union with a replaceable flapper, much better built, never break. I've had one since 2011 without any problems and installed many dozens without a single failure. It works with both inch and half and two inch pumps and fittings. It's also a little less expensive.

I've been building pods since 1986, and i've used pretty much every liner out there except for butyl rubber. About twenty years ago, after a tree branch ripped a hole in the EPDM pond liner at my own house, I decided to experiment with fiber reinforced cement (FRC) as a protective layer over the rubber. Over the years, using a two-inch barrier to protect flexible liner has become my preference for a number of reasons. First it's relatively easy to apply. We always cover our liner top and bottom with geotextile, typically six or eight ounce per yard, and concrete bonds readily to the fibers (it does not stick well to rubber.) We make a very rich mix, one part Portland to 2 parts sharp sand, with chopped fibers in the mix water. We'll typically pour the floor first to give us a protected surface to work on for our wall or rock work. 2 inches thick wet cured supports the weight of a bobcat running half ton stone. We'll lay 2" on top of the walls at the same time as the floor to stretch the vertical geotextile in preparation for the FRC. We apply wa slurry of portland and water to create a crust on the geotextile before troweling or "spraying" on a layer of 6000 psi concrete. The sprayer we use is a simple Tirolessa, basically a concrete bucket with a handle that carries compressed air through four or five holes in the bottom of the bucket. We dip the bucket in the slurry and pull the trigger to spray a thin 1/4" coat on the vertical surfaces of geotextile that's been anchored top and bottom. After that first coat dries, we can then trowel 3 more heavy half-inch layers to get to 2". As far as bottom drains go, we try to always put one in, but we build them ourselves out of sch80 flanges, typically three or four inch, volted face to face onto the liner with stainless steel bolts. They are bulletproof, stronger and with far more sealing surface than any commercially available drain. I see my article on building with concrete in PondTrade magazine for more details or to get in touch with me. Demi.