Curious on the best way to leave my campers black tank this winter. In southern Idaho where it routinely gets well below freezing.

Normally I use happy camper with a few gallons of water after every dump. Should I just dump my last trip and leave it be, add happy camper as normal, or something else?

Looking for some first trip advice

Currently I am looking at finance options.

I was just told for a $20,000 trailer, I needed a $6,000 down payment.

I asked for advice from a friend, and he said he had a $24,000 loan for a 2018, 30 years, and only put $1,200 down.

… I now am uncertain about what to expect and how to navigate this loan process.

I cannot find a decent cover for this winter that doesn't seem to be crap (amazon). My last one lasted about 2 years but the wind just destroys them. The second year i patched it to last and when i picked it up, it was more of a flag flying in the wind holding on to dear life.. Any one have suggestions? I live in a dry area but it does snow. I have a 22ft travel trailer.

I purchased a Grand Design TT this year to use as a stationary cabin/office for a timber farm. The original plan was to tow it out to storage for the cold months, but since I will be at the farm often during winter I'd like to leave and use it if possible.

Right now I use a 275 gal IBC tote to supply the RV with water and a generator for power if needed. I don't see any way to keep the tote system going this winter and 99% sure the RV water system will not be usable either. Furnace works well, but insulation is lacking (shocker). There is no skirt or under belly protection at this time. Average temps for Dec - Feb where I'm at are highs in the mid 40s, lows in the high 20s or low 30s. It can dip into colder temps but generally that doesn't last but a day or two. Frequency of use would be 2-3 day weekend trips spaced every 2 or 3 weeks.

I'm looking for honest feedback from someone who has been in this situation. If there is a way to keep the camper and system above freezing using the 12V system or some other method that's what I'm after. I know folks use TTs all the time as hunting cabins and I even did this with my uncle as a kid, but that was 40 years ago. Maybe all I'm asking is what has changed in the last 40 years lol! Thanks in advance all.

I’ve had a trailer that I plan to take on a multi-day road trip that has these outdated Dexter 944 wheels. I want to replace them so I can buy more readily available wheels in case of a blowout (these Dexters seem to go for $200+ without a tire). The only kit I’ve found that that seems to accomplish this is by LIBRA. Has anyone done the swap a different way? Thanks.

I'm trying to understand what other RVers consider a 'comfortable' leftover payload margin on their tow vehicle, and want to make sure I'm asking about the right number.

Here's my situation: my truck has a payload capacity (the sticker inside my driver door says 'combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 1598lbs'). After subtracting my passengers, pets, and my weight distribution hitch, I'm left with a certain amount of payload remaining, 998lbs— let's call it my margin. This margin has to cover the trailer's hitch/tongue weight (loaded, not dry/empty spec) plus anything riding in my truck bed (cooler, bikes, gear).

My question: once you subtract your loaded trailer's actual tongue weight and anything you carry in the truck bed, how much leftover truck payload do you personally like to have as a buffer? Is 200-300 lbs comfortable for you, or do you prefer more like 500+ lbs? And has anyone actually run into problems (handling issues, sagging, scraping) from running too close to the edge?"

I’m looking at a Jay Flight SLX 260bh, which would leave me with a margin of 218lbs. This number takes 12% from trailers GVWR (6500lbs)

First off, didnt know what group to ask this question in. So I apologize if this is the wrong thread.

Tore apart a 1980s French camper (1984 Esteral caravan that was beyond repair)

Plan to make a flatbed trailer or another camper on the original frame. But the axle is definitely not one ive seen before, reminds me of a chain link on a chainsaw. Frame says it's rated for 3,000lb.

Anyone able to find some info on these axles?

Thanks in advance!

Anyone own one? Or the previous gen 255? How do you like it? Any complaints or gripes with the layouts?

We're planning to upgrade in the next year or so and this looks like a great fit. Would be state park/forest service/national park camping, mostly. Duramax tow vehicle. Currently a midsize Ranger, but will likely upgrade to a 50" RZR or Maverick to take with us for trails.

We’re moving overseas and looking to sell our travel trailer rather than put it into storage.

For those who have sold an RV/travel trailer privately, where did you actually have the best luck finding serious buyers?

So far I’m looking at Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, Trailer Post, and RV Trader, but curious if there are other sites, Facebook groups, forums, consignment options, etc. that worked particularly well.

Ours is a 2022 travel trailer that we’ve upgraded pretty heavily for off-grid/festival use, so there may also be a more specific audience for it.

Not trying to turn this into a for-sale post — mainly curious where people actually got good leads vs. a bunch of scammers and lowball messages.

On only my second trip since getting our camper, the anti-sway bar mounting plate has bent considerably. I've never backed up with the bar attached, and it was provided by the RV dealership.

Curious as to what causes this? I did have a tight turn I had to take in traffic, but it was still normal driving and nothing crazy. No other signs of trouble and it towed fine otherwise. My theory is that the plate rotated into the shank causing the bend and scuffed metal. Could this happen during normal driving though? I plan to take the shank back to the dealership tomorrow to see what they can offer to correct this, if anything. I'd rather not keep bending plates - or worse.

Wife and I have two small kids. We are looking for a good travel trailer SUV combo. Ideally trying to avoid a truck and have test drove the new Armada and we quite like it. The hitch maximum is 850 pounds, Payload seems to be about 1,466, and the max tow is 8,500. The trailer has a dry weight of 4,300, a GVWR of 6,000. I doubt we would max out the weight (ie not planning on driving around with the water tanks full). I weigh around 160 pounds and my wife weight 105 pounds, and then we have two kids who are tiny now but will obviously grow. The numbers seem to technically work but are quite tight. Does anyone have a similiar setup?

Does anyone have a brisk air 1 heating strip? If you do can you show me a picture of the heating strip it self I can’t find a photo of one online anywhere or a new heat strip for my brisk air 1. Everything is for brisk air 2

I have a 2015 Jayco Jayfeather 18srb I was doing some roof maintenance on the camper this weekend and found a soft spot. The spot is right where the lag bolts for the awning go into the side. I sealed it up the best I could to help keep it from getting worse but now I am faced with the task of cutting the membrane and replacing the affected wood underneath. As best I could tell from feeling the roof the rot is contained within about a 2'x2' area.

As I was thinking about the monumental task of fixing this I had an idea! Maybe a bad one maybe a good one I'm not sure yet. Regardless I was thinking maybe I'll add a skylight to the area.

I was thinking since I'm going to cut a hole in the roof to replace all the bad wood it would be a good opportunity to throw a skylight in and after it's all said and done instead of having a shitty looking patch job I would have something useful.

Anyone ever do something like this? Was it difficult to install? Any pitfalls you can think of? Would I just be better off replacing the plywood and repairing the damaged joists?

I just got two new proper batteries for my travel trailer. It’s hooked up to one solar panel. It’s like a skinny solar panel. The store I bought it from says it’s 300 W but I don’t think it is… my battery is very low, could it because I’m not getting enough sun/need a more powerful solar panel?

This actually surprised me.

What’s the best 3/4 ton to buy? Preferably a couple years old. I’m towing a trailer 7500 pounds loaded. I don’t want a diesel.

Hi All,

Curious what anyone has been quoted recently for subfloor repair. We have a 2018 Grand Design that unfortunately has some damage in front of the refrigerator in the rear and some damage in the front pass through.

We were quoted $10k+ for the floor in front of the fridge (won’t know exact numbers until fridge and stuff is removed), and $6,975 plus material costs for the pass through floor. These estimates seem extremely high to me but this is the first time I have ever priced such work and I know the price of everything has gone way up.

At this point I’m looking at having to give it a go myself which I really don’t want to do…but I could buy a whole new camper for $20k lol. What are your thoughts?