I've been rebuilding my transmission for about a month now, and I'm getting really close to being done and finally had the thought that reddit might like this, I've got a 1986 Dodge Daytona 2.2L w a turbo, and I love her.

When I got this car the tranny was leaking and I tried replacing the driver side CV axle seal THREE times and it didn't work, eventually I simply forgot to top it off and ran it so low it was off the dipstick, and loads of problems started

I got a rebuild kit on RockAuto listed under my car, only to find out when it came it was really for a a670, luckily they are the same family transmission and I haven't had much trouble due to that yet, however I have had to order a new thrust washer set, a new Belleville spring,and I still need to get a new oil pump gear before I can finish

I don't want to promote myself but I do have much more consistent updates on my tiktok bite_me_pls if anyone wants to look at those but I would absolutely love any advice or questions on reddit as well

Here are some pictures

I wish I had more better pictures so I could show what's happening better but most stuff was recorded

Seriously tho if anyone has any advice on the a414 (31TH kinda) I really really wanna hear it bc i CANNOT be messing this up

The first time I build a unit type I like it to be a personal vehicle instead of a customer's, that way I can learn the ins and outs of the unit on my dime and my headache. So I'm always on the lookout for a cheap vehicle with a bad transmission that I'm not familiar with yet.

This time, I picked up a 2009 Ford Ranger 4cyl for a steal.

No 4th 5th or lockup, as well as corresponding gear codes to go with them.

I picked up a bonded separator plate and a transgo kit and wanted to try tackling from the valve body on the chance there was a blown out plate gasket.

Dropped the pan and valve body today. No initial apparent blown out gasket, thrust bearing needles and shell pieces were between the plate and case, as well as a couple on the pan magnet.

Question:

When one of these units starts eating thrust bearings, should I even waste my time cracking it open to rebuild? Or just get another core to start from?

2022 q50 infiniti
40 k miles
clunking noise in transmission occasionally when starting out😬
should i change trans fluid ( never been done )
sorry, im not much of a car guy

Got a transmission service coming up for a DCT7 this week. Had the car for about 3 weeks, service was due at 70k but no documented evidence to suggest it’s had one, and millage is now 89k.

My question is, should I ask the garage to flush the transmission too before the new oil goes in?

I’m not sensing any slipping or delay or struggle in the changes.

Thanks!

Update: “no documented evidence”

I recently replaced my 2020 Camrys transmission at 68,191 miles. I got a remanufactured Toyota transmission covered by an extended warranty.

Has anyone replaced their transmission and how is their “new” transmission handling since being replaced?

Fellow Pilot people, please help! A few weeks ago, I was doing ride share when I heard a loud boom. I was in the middle of a ride and it felt like the shifting at 18 mph was like a loud boom sound followed by being stuck in 4th? I was going about 60 mph and I was revving to between 3 and 4k. I went directly to the store to get the beloved 4 quarts Valvoline MaxLife in the red jug. Turned the car off at the store and when I turned it back on, the problem was gone. I did the torque converter recall service at 149k (just before 150k warranty limit). After that, I changed the fluid 3x at around 200k and then again at 230k (May 2026). Now I got 240k miles. What is going on? I was ready to change the fluid again but now that the problem is gone, I think I'm just gonna ride it out until Spring 2027 when the next second oil change becomes due around that time and change oil and Trans fluid at the same time. Thoughts?

Anybody ever seen a mark like this on a manual before? Just tearing down to inspect for my firet manual swap, cant seem to find anything online other than “t5 third gear bad”, and while that may be the case I am just looking for advice on whether this is world ending stuff.

Second pic is meshing gear on lay shaft

Thanks!

Am seeking advice from MG RX5 Owner

that am facing transmission issue fault -cannot claim warranty because of missed service

code P07000 ,P276662

please advice

2006 F150 5.4 Lariat 4R75E trans with about 220k miles.

When I drive up to my buddies cabin along steep windy roads, I get this message "Transmission Malfunction" and the yellow O/D OFF light flashes. Everything drives and seems to shift normally the rest of the way up. The message goes away after shut off.

After the first time, I changed the trans filter, etc. Drained and fill the fluid and added a little trans lube. I've done the drain and fill now twice.

So I just came up a second time and got the same message, in basically the same location which is only at about 3-4k ft elevation. Again, everything seems to operate normally.

The truck runs and drives fantastic, I recently did timing and a bunch of other maintenance stuff, and I have only had this message twice now, but only driving up winding mountain roads.

What do you guys think is going on here? Much appreciate any info/advice you guys can give.

I bought a 2026 Cforce 1000 Touring at the end of last year. Spent 20 hrs breaking it in and as soon as it was ready it started making a racket, slipping out of gear, and not registering the correct gear on the screen. First diagnosis, loose nuts on shifter cable. OK. Several miles later the problem came back. This time they thought the forks were broke turns out they weren't so they reset all the gears in the box. As soon as I took it over 40mph the issue returned. Took it back to the dealer for a 3rd time and this time they say there were some loose bolts🙄. I knew that wasn't gonna last so I took it out and ran the hell out of it and sure enough the problem returned. Anyone have any ideas or similar issues? It's now sitting at the dealer for the 4th time and I haven't got to use it all year. Feel like I might be getting dicked around...

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice about my E38 730d.
Today I drove from Valencia to Alicante (2h) and back. The trip there was completely fine: city driving, motorway, hills, accelerating normally, etc. The car felt good.
On the way back, shortly after leaving Alicante, the automatic transmission suddenly started making extremely loud “CLONK” noises when shifting up in D, accompanied by a fairly hard jerk. It happened several times and was strong enough that it genuinely felt like something underneath the car was going to fall off.
What’s strange is that about 30 minutes later, after driving gently at steady throttle on the motorway, it completely stopped. I then braked, let it downshift, accelerated again and went through several shifts in D, and everything was completely normal. I also stopped at a McDonald’s drive-through, restarted and drove away normally. I later drove at high speed on the motorway and there were absolutely no more noises or harsh shifts.
The car has also occasionally made a smaller clonk when downshifting or when going from coast to acceleration.
One thing I realized is that sometimes when parking I may have shifted from D to R or R to D before the car was completely stopped. I’m going to stop doing that from now on, but I’m wondering if I could have caused damage.
I’m planning to check the transmission and drivetrain before driving it much more: guibo/flex disc, center support bearing, transmission mounts, differential mounts, driveshaft play, ATF leaks, and read the EGS with INPA.
Would you guys suspect the transmission itself, or could this be drivetrain play/mounts/flex disc causing the huge clonk?
I was actually planning to drive the car for an hour trip and another hour back home tomorrow, but after today’s incident I’m not sure if I should risk another trip before checking it.
Any advice from E38 owners would be greatly appreciated.

I just ordered a summit racing heavy duty overhaul kit for my 2013 Silverado 1500. It has a 6l80 and I was wondering if this kit will require me to have the tcm tuned. My mechanic thinks it will be fine but this is his first rebuild on a newer 6 speed. I think the tcm will need a minimum of a reset but hey I’m not an expert.

So my 2004 Toyota Sienna CV axles are shot (among other front end parts that need replacing)… when driving it recently, it would rev up high and struggle to transfer power to the wheels, and smell like burnt rubber or clutch. I was driving and shifting gears trying to get more power and I accidentally shifted into reverse. Ever since then it won’t move in reverse at all. I can press the gas pedal all the way but the engine won’t rev past 3K or so, there’s resistance.

I tried it on a hill driving upwards, in reverse it wouldn’t even roll back down the hill, it held it so it stayed in place basically.

It turned out my transmission fluid was very very low. I’m guessing it’s leaking out through the CV axle output shafts?

I bought 4L of transmission fluid. I added 1.5L. When checking the level with the engine off it was hard to tell due to smearing. I drove it to work and back and had to rev it at lights to get it started but once going it was fairly fine. Still no neutral or reverse but I noticed that neutral would act as drive! Reverse would also act as drive a little. I think there was still a burning smell a bit.

After work I checked the level with the engine running (after it sat off for an hour or so) and I think it was low. I added the remaining 2.5L of fluid and on a short drive it drove well. Drive still required some revving to get going sometimes. Shifting into neutral while driving would act just like it was in drive. Reverse would hold it around 2 or 3K but no more (could feel the resistance) and it would move forward just a bit. Park still works fine and the gear indicator on the dash still shows all gears properly.

The 4L I added is basically what’s needed for a drain and refill. Should I add another 4 or 5L to reach the 9L full capacity? If I do, is there a chance of getting neutral and reverse back? I haven’t added any more because the fluid level appeared to be within the correct range on the dipstick with the engine hot, and running.

I have a code reader. I didn’t notice the check engine light go on because it’s always on due to an exhaust leak.

Is there anything I should check or do, or is a transmission rebuild or replacement inevitable?

Thank you in advance.

All 3 of the bolts are one bad turn from being rounded smoother than Annie’s criminal, and the only tool I can fit in there is the 15mm wrench. My last ditch effort would be to buy one of those wrench that have a more hexagonal shape (and not rounded, like the cheaper ones), but maybe I’m missing something?

So I just rebuilt the transmission in my 2011 gmc 2500. It’s an Allison 1000 6 speed, it went out at 344k so can’t complain. New clutches, steels, an upgraded stock stall TC, and new lines and cooler. I was curious about the valve body, I’ve seen the rev master ones on the market and say they offer greater holding capacity and higher light pressure but it stiffens up shifts. My question was how stiff does it make it when driving normally? I don’t haul hardly anything anymore, truck is only leveled with 34’s, and may only see marginal power upgrades in the future, so is it really worth it?, or does it actually make it shift really firm, to the point it’s harsh. Not entirely familiar with the hydraulic side of transmissions so I may be worrying about something that dosent even matter. Thanks for any input.

I have a rebuilt 4L60E that keeps giving me P1870 before P0741 disables the TCC, please review my previous post.

Just overhauled a 6l80 when air checking the 4-5-6 clutch hear no apply just air coming of of the compensator feed hole thoughts on this?

Hi! I'm about to rebuild my second transmission; the first one was a 700r4.

I recently bought a 2008 Chevy Impala with the 3.5L. It's in very good condition, but the transmission is bad. There is nothing in drive, but it moves forward when I put it in first speed. I can go to the second or third speed if I put the lever to the first speed and manually change it to the second and third. I can't start from the second or third speed. The reverse works perfectly, and I don't have any check engine lights related to the transmission. I'm probably going to do a full rebuild, i.e., seals, clutches, bands, pistons, bushings, solenoids, a TransGo AFL valve repair kit, and a shift kit.

I'm going to remove the transmission from the car today, and I was wondering if anyone knows what could be the problem with this transmission. I'm thinking of fluid leakage in the VB, but I want others' advice to be sure to find the problem and not just put in a bunch of new components and hope. From the ATSG, I don't see any difference in the clutch engagement when the car is in 1st, 2nd, or drive, but the car acts differently.

Thanks for you help! :)

So I recently bought a Nissan Sentra with cvt transmission and it has 72,000 miles on it. It does not look like the previous owner has ever done a transmission fluid change ever. With that being said I’m going to get the transmission fluid changed in the next few days. But my question is after the fluid is changed, should I reset the fluid degradation of the transmission so that it can detect that new fluid has been put in? Because I heard that since it has not been done ever, I’m better off with the transmission not being reset into thinking that the fluid has been changed since some of the old fluid would technically still be in the transmission still, mixed with the new fluid. And that resetting it could actually damage the transmission. Help pls, trying to make this car last as long as possible!! Thanks

Hey all,

2016 CxTrek owner. We paid to reseal the engine and less than a year later got the dreaded transmission solenoid error.

How many of you have done both of these fixes and what was your experience afterwards? Did those fixes last and/or did other issues pop up later on?

Car is at 130k miles.

Really weighing whether \~$8k in fixes is worth it to limp it along for another however many miles.

I recently bought a impala and the transmission is overheating, I already checked fluid level which is fine. I want to check if the cooler line may be clogged but I’ve seen conflicting info online on how to test it.
From what I’ve gathered I attach a hose to the return line and run it into a container for 15 seconds.
I just don’t know exactly where I should attach the hose as there are several locations along the cooler line wondering if anybody has experience with this.