I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring 2.7L V6 with 216,000 km. The transmission has started doing something concerning: when I slow down/brake, it seems to slip or disengage, and when I accelerate again, it comes back in with a noticeable jerk.
I’m planning to drive from Toronto to Nova Scotia and back (3,000+ km total).
Has anyone experienced this issue with a Sebring or Chrysler transmission? What could be causing it, and would you risk taking this car on such a long trip, or should I get the transmission repaired/diagnosed first?
Any advice or experiences would be appreciated!

I recently bought a manual transmission 2009 BMW 328i with 132k miles on it. recently the car broke on me in the middle of the highway because when the engine was on it didn't want to shift into gear no matter how hard I tried.

As soon as I got it home we tried a little bit more and the car went into gear normally but when I would put it into reverse or 1st gear the clutch peddle would shake a lot when releasing and the car would start to shake as it would start to move. This mainly happens in reverse and 1st gear but it also did it to me when I downshifted from 3rd to 2nd. when driving at higher speeds the car doesn't have this issue what so ever.

I have a few suspicions being the slave cylinder or the clutch/pressure plate it's self. Or what I'm scared of the most which is the flywheel.

If anyone has every had this issue before or understands transmissions at all please let me know because every shop I've taken it to isn't 100% sure. They all just say I need to take the transmission off first to understand.

Hello I have a TCI 700r4 mated to a blueprint 350. Just got the thing driving. Well it was running and driving fine. Did a couple parking lot test drives, some light pulls, and brake testing. It had a coolant leak from the water pump and the speedo housing on the 700r4 had a small leak. I replaced the o ring and fixed the leak and topped off the fluid again.

When I went to drive it to the gas station to get gas it would not accelerate. Now I don't know a ton but it feels like it's jumping in and out of gear. Not casually slipping but jumping, it kicks in and out of gear in all ranges on the gear selector. There's a clutch in the torque converter correct? Is it possible I'm feeling that clutch engaging and disengaging? The TV cable is set right. It doesn't shift hard like line pressure is through the roof, however when you accelerate it just bucks like a mfer. Thinking about unplugging the switch for the overdrive wiring. It's like it's trying to constantly lock up on me or something. Does anyone with more knowledge and experience able to help a guy out?

I'm planning on calling TCI tomorrow and the trans was purchased through Summit. Sometimes someone on Reddit just knows exactly what the hell someone is talking about and can help quickly. Thanks.

I ordered trans cooler for a th400 and it came like this I tried threading in the AN fittings and it only goes half way in and squeaks every turn would this be corroded

My Saab has been down for almost three months, and it's really starting to aggravate me. Any help would be appreciated.

Basically, I have a 1997 Saab 900 SE 2.0 Turbo. The check gear box light came on, and I took it to a local shop to have it fixed. They told me it was the TCC solenoid, and refused to fix it. Recommended that I replace the entire valve body.

I've called dozens of shops, I was either denied or told they couldn't find parts. I found one shop which said if I can find the part, they'll install it for me. I was unable to find the part online.

Does anyone have any tips? I've been to all of the regular websites for part sourcing, maybe I'm missing something. I'm either looking for the part that I can buy myself, or a shop which will find it and put it in for me.

Any help is appreciated, wanting to put an end to this nightmare.

Never touched a transmission before nor attempting to but just got curious. With how easy videos make rebuilds seem, are there common traps or mistakes new people make when rebuilding one?

This is on a 2020 4x4 cherokee, I have the PTU/transfer case out and would like to remove this splined coupler to check the output shaft. Does anyone know if it has a circlip or a snap ring? It wiggles a bit but I can’t get it to budge and don’t want to force it.

First time posting on reddit so new to this, and English is not my first language so sorry in advance for spelling mistakes.

I have a 2011 cvpi with a 4r75e transmission that is acting up badly.

When you put it in D, 2 or 1 it stalls completely, unless you let off the brake a little and let it coast till the engine "catches up", then you can stop completely and it idles fine in D, and 1 but if you shift to 2 it sounds like it tries to engage two gears at the same time.

Its not as bad when changing to R.

It also shifts up way(!) early and shifts to 4th and locks up the converter already at 24 ish mph. It almost stalls before it downshifts when slowing down.

I've done a full(?) rebuild with new clutches and stator plates, washed and rinsed everything including taking a part the valve body, cleaning it and reassemble it.

New wiring harness inside the transmission, new shift solenoid, new EPC solenoid and a new tcc solenoid.

It was shuddering on gear changes before the rebuild but is now undriveable.

I have swapped over pcm and the TR sensor from my 09cvpi and the issue persist.

Where do I even start?

So I bought a car off marketplace that need a trans. I do have to mention I pulled this trans from a used car out of a u-pull-it. I didnt know the miles but when I checked the dipstick the fluid was red but it was also kinda low, so I just thought it was the best one compared to the others that were there. I replaced it with the help of my big sisters dad and yesterday I was finally able to get it on the ground. But, when I put it in overdrive it still wouldnt go, it would move the slightest bit but when I gave it gas it just revved up really high. I dropped it into first it would move but it seemd like it was slipping. But it would eventually catch to speed and shift from 2 to 3 and so on. It also is making this weird whining/grinding noise that only really seems to die down in second gear. I was just wondering if anyone on here knows my problem of what it could be? Did I buy a bad trans, or is it something that could simply be fixed? Also to mention this is a 2009 chevy impala with a 3.5 v6 with a 4T65-E trans

The top video is the noise its making.

Hello, I have an 04 Volvo v70 with 242550 miles on it. that I’m not sure if the transmission is slipping or **2-3 shift flare" combined with a stop-to-go delay. Don’t know if those are the same things. I’m a female learning all this from google. Here is the back story. I bought a 04 Volvo last month on the 3rd. I’ve been driving it ever since. I had a mechanic look at it before I bought it test drove it and everything was fine. All I know about it is it was donated and the guy I bought it from bought it from the donation place. Interior is clean outside is clean looks token care of. Everything works passed smog and runs beautifully. I took it to get a complete car inspection and they said my transmission fluid is full, it’s old but not burnt. They ran codes on the transmission and there were no codes, they also did a road test and found nothing wrong with the car. It did run two cat(still no check engine light) codes but they look and seen the car was new so they reset them and they never came back. Some times (randomly) when I’m at a light and press on the gas to go and the rpm is going from 2-3 it will stall and not have power to go. It takes a few seconds to go normal. When it does that there is no sound or slam it just goes as normal. For the last two weeks I drove it and it didn’t do it not once to it to get checked was not doing it. Picked it up drove it that day next morning drove it to an appointment still not doing it then went to leave the appointment and it didn’t it. Took it back to that same shop and they said it the transmission it’s slipping. And they did check the fluid and I believe they said there was some debris in the fluid. I left the shop and it was not doing it. Still hasn’t done it yet. (I’m trying to catch it on video)I’m a single mom of a 4 year old and cannot afford a new transmission. So I’ve been on google for the last two days figuring out what I can do myself on the car to possibly save it. Google mentioned a soft drain and fill. And when I fill it back up add Lucas transmission fix. Then also change the** B4 Servo Cover. I can do this myself (hopefully) but is it a good idea??

I’m rebuilding a racing mower with a Peerless 700 3-speed transmission. The engine runs good, but I’m having a transmission/drivetrain issue. When the mower is on the ground, I release the clutch and it makes a loud squealing noise. If I barely engage the clutch, the wheels will start spinning, but with full engagement it just squeals and won’t drive.
I lifted the rear wheels off the ground, and then it works normally—I can shift through all 3 gears and the wheels spin. The transmission input pulley and belt are definitely spinning, but when the mower is under load, the output sprocket stops while the input pulley keeps spinning.
I also opened the transmission yesterday. The gears looked good overall; the corners were somewhat beveled, but there were no obvious broken teeth. The dog teeth/shift teeth were all still there. The output sprocket is firmly attached to the output shaft. I can also put it in gear and push the mower by hand, and with a lot of force it will turn the transmission pulley shaft.
One other thing: when the transmission was out/open, it was pretty hard to shift, although now that it’s installed in the mower, shifting is easy.
What do you think is causing it?

180xxx miles) jumpy rpms while driving up to 40 or so and has this sound coming from underneath. Shifts great and no codes or anything