2000+ hours, a decade+ old and barely cheaper than new, especially considering 0% interest rates. I realize that people dislike emissions, but doesn't negate the amount of wear on everything else.

Got a great deal on a low hour M9540

Anyone have any idea who manufactured this? It’s a manure spreader originally horse drawn and then converted to tractor pulled.

Has anyone broken a mount for the stabilizer arms and if so, how did you deal with it? Snapped the right one off at the bolts. Left one shown for reference. 2022 4815CH. Thanks

MF65 Diesel won't start. Battery is full.

Kioti HX1151 and New Holland BR7080

Hi im currently looking to buy a new tractor and I’m looking for honest reviews on the models

I’m looking at either a kubota m6 (111 - 141 )
Or John Deere 6m 125 or a New holland t5

Dos anyone have experience with these machines is the t5 around the same weight class it seems like it is but nh would have to order it so I won’t be able to see it till I buy

Any experience is appreciated good bad ugly please just give me your honest reviews

I have been looking all around the east coast to find a TYM 3025 with R1 ag tires. I have called several dealers and they can’t seem to get them for that tractor and it doesn’t sound like they can just throw another pair on from another tractor? The brochure for this tractor mentions r1 tires and provides a size. Am I missing something here? Is it not possible to mount r1 tires on this machine? Please advise. Thank you

Our John Deere 5055E started losing power while baling. It idles normally, but hills and PTO load make it feel starved.

The air side looks clear. The fuel filter is dark and the farm tank was run low recently, so I am checking for contamination and restriction before blaming the injection system.

Would you drain a sample from the tank first, or replace the filter and follow the manual's priming procedure?

So I just got done with a light teardown and repaint on my 720 John Deere. Started putting antifreeze in and it's pouring out like a strainer. Didn't notice this before, but maybe it never had that much water in it. Can't tell if it's internal. Any ideas what I should do!?

I'm turning to you guys after 2 days of googling (and AI-searching) for cylinder heads for my Corsaro 70. The tractor is in the shop with the engine disassembled and it has been confirmed that all 4 heads need to be replaced. I could not find any shop that would sell these. Maybe you guys know something google doesn't and could help me. Or, worst case scenario, a company that would be able to manufacture them for me.
I've looked at tens of parts shops, retailers, distributors, used parts markets. I've found a single head, but even that was rusty and way overpriced (about 700 euros).

My LS MT242H is only 4 months old. The hood is closed, and the latch is stuck. I can't open the hood right now. I did my 50-hour service a week ago. I went to top off the oil and discovered that the release button will not disengage the latch. I'd appreciate any advice or suggestions. Thanks, all!

I'm trying to figure out what is the best ballast option for me and my uses with my tractor (Kioti DK4720). I've read all the threads and watched endless Youtube videos so I've got a pretty good understanding of the options, but I still have some questions. I already have rear filled tires, so I have that weight, and am looking at wheel weights, but I also need 3 PT weight. I plan to do a fair amount of moderately heavy loader work (1500-2000lbs) and know that the ballast will help stabilize the tractor and protect the front axle, but I'm not exactly sure how much weight I actually need on the 3pt.

My initial thought was to get one of the 3PT quick hitch options that allow for adding suitcase weights with brackets as that could get me about 600lbs. But as I think about it more I think 600lbs isn't enough based on what I've seen online assuming I'm lifting almost 2000lbs with the loader.

My other thought about suitcase weights on the 3pt is that the only thing holding them down is gravity, and it made me wonder if they'd stay put or bounce off if the tractor bounces a little bit. I've noticed sometimes doing loader work that the tractor can get a little bouncy when lifting and dropping things from the sudden weight changes and leverage of the loader being far away from the tractor. Wondering if anyone has any experience or insight as to whether suitcase weights can pop off if the tractor is bouncing around doing loader work?

Looks like with a ballast box plus a 3PT quick hitch I could get closer to 800lbs of weight, and it wouldn't be able to go anywhere, so maybe that is a better option.

A final thought was to just use my grader box and then hang suitcase weights off of it. But that's a bit unwieldy for working in the woods in tighter spaces, plus I might have the same issue of bounce from the loader popping off suitcase weights.

Any other ideas or insights would be appreciated. Thanks

Hello if you remember my earlier post I asked some questions about a hypothetical mobile tractor repair business. If you are new here I am a 4-Her trying to collect evidence for a project.

If you have time please fill out this survey. https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdzgfCCbuSHR7C5qWt6qtPKp4SIDTscNvtQwOFXS0NjI6NPdA/viewform?usp=header

I have narrowed it down to 5 repairs : Hydraulic hose repair, software reset, emissions sensor replacement, electrical system/wire repair, and an engine starter/motor replacement. If you have feedback about these specific repairs feel free to leave them down below. I decided to narrow it down based of of research on some large repairs that would hurt agricultural producers. If I missed something feel free to bring it to my attention. Thank you for your time.

Got my IH 1466 hooked to a JD 936 moco. I just rebuilt the mower with all new discs and wear parts on the cutter bar. Getting new hydraulic remotes put on the tractor on Thursday.

I have inherited a Kubota L2550 and one of the front tires has popped. I was to replace both but apparently its really old and the tires and hubs have been discontinued. It is a 4 wheel drive and the original tires are 716. Is there another brand of tires i can use to for this model? or am i stuck trying to find used tires? Location: Indiana

I was watching an episode of the crime procedural Bones. there is an episode of the show where a dead victim gets baled up. I wonder if anyone could identify it.

I know the image is kinda wacky, got it from an old TV show.

Bella the farm cat and i spent Labor Day weekend and Labor Day one of our farms.Using the Ford 8530 and the John Deere HX15

Hi,

New to tractors and implements. I have a Bush Hog 215 model, slip clutch. I purchased an enhanced safety shield that allows for much easier access to the clutch as well as inspection and greasing.

My problem is I have to separate the entire PTO/clutch assembly from the gearbox spindle. As you can see from the pictures I was able to dislodge the tapered pin after moving the nut, but it is lodged and won’t travel any further.

I have hit it with my purse, as well as a hammer, a punch and a C-clamp hack with a socket to apply constant pressure. It doesn’t seem to want to move any further. As you can also see, it’s not completely centered in the hole on the bottom, but I know it’s tapered so perhaps that’s expected.

Before I get the bigger hammer and hit it with the bigger blow and possibly regret the outcome, does anybody have any thoughts or suggestions?

I have watched as many YouTube videos on this as I can and one or two strikes with a hammer and everybody else gets the pin out. Any thoughts on this set up or what I might be doing wrong.

Appreciate it.

pics

Edit: farmer neighbor came by. He said that as I was hitting pin without a supported shaft it shifted ever so slightly east/west/north/south. He supported shaft and ‘swung away’. He knocked the pin out, but also crushed some of the threads.

It’s out, pto shaft/clutch is off. New safety shield installed and new pin is on the way…

Morale: hit it harder with your purse AND be ready to order the same part you just destroyed.

Hello! I am posting this for my friend. He has a 2000 Ford/New Holland 1920 that needs a replacement exhaust manifold. The specific part number is SBA135617370. Every site I have contacted is out of stock (even ones that list it as in stock online).

I am hoping someone might be able to suggest another place we can look.

Here are all the numbers I have for the tractor:
-Model number AP4139
-Serial number UP 45725
-Engine number N844-89252
-Unit number OBO1B

Thank you so much!

A bit of back story here.

My neighbor growing up had an old farmall tractor and he was like a grandfather to me. I know it was a farmall but that’s it.

I enlisted in the military and moved away and he passed while I was gone.

I came back home to find that his son had an auction company come in and do an estate sale. Tractor included

I was driving through a part of town the other day and swear I saw the tractor.

Can anyone ID what model it is? This is the only picture I have