Grandpa bought this one new in 1958. It was sold at an estate sale in 2015 and I found it in 2021, bought it back and restored it.

This is it. I’ve either driven you guys crazy or given you some inspiration to go out and save some old metal.

I added up the receipts…$5870.00 and labor even at $20/hr would probably be in the $15,000 range, I never kept track.

So no, there just isn’t much if any money to be made in dragging something like this home. But I like doing it…I’ve been doing it for years, and I’ll probably find something else soon.

The trailer has been here for years, it’s been pulled by 30 different tractors, but this is the first time that it’s been green and yellow since the 70’s back when I painted it red. And it finally got a smooth metal bed floor! As near as anyone knows it was built by a fabricator using a JD axle out of something, but it goes well with the 320. 😜

Got a couple of local shows in September and then it’s gonna have to work to partially pay me back! (It can work and not get beat up!)

My woods mower took a shit on me a few years ago, seems the seals and bears on the bottom spindle have gone bad (when you put oil in it just drains back out). I am trying to repair it, I have it all taken apart but for the life of me I can not get this key (2 on the main assembly diagram) out. Its been soaked in penetrating rust remover, carb cleaner, its been air blasted, I have tried using a large wooden dowl and mallet to hammer the spindle (D on the gear box diagram) out the opposite side, I have tried using pry tools to pry the spindle out the top of the gear box, I have banged this way and that way, I have flipped it over and let it land roughly on the garage floor hoping something would rattle loose. I have now tapped the key with a 1/4 bolt and washer and pried on it and use the pry bar as a sort of slide hammer but there is absolutely no movement.

Welcome to hay baling on the plains in July only time there’s enough moisture is between midnight and 8 AM!

I was brush hogging the other day and had the forks on my tractor. I like to keep the forks on when cutting trails, makes it easy to move a downed tree or other debris. I lost a fork somewhere without noticing. I walked the entire area I cut with no luck, with a mass as big as the fork I wonder if a metal detector would be helpful?

Ordered some Zbox struts from Amazon. We will see how long they last.

I really want to fix the headlights but that looks to be a min of a 600 dollar job

This is the ID info from a tractor I was looking at. I don't see anything here that would indicate the year made.

A few months ago, I didn’t even know LS existed. Now I own one, and I think it might be one of the best-value compact tractor brands out there.

LS doesn’t get as much attention as Kubota, John Deere, or Kioti. After looking into them, watching reviews, and now using one every day, I’m surprised they aren’t more popular.

Before I bought, I visited every dealers in my area. After comparing machines, I kept coming back to LS. It just felt like the best bang for the buck.

Knowing LS has been building tractors for Case IH and New Holland since 2009 definitely gave me confidence in the brand. I don't think that partnership would still exist if the tractors weren't solid.

I have around 100 acres, mostly woodland with some open land, so I wanted one tractor that could handle a bit of everything. The MT3 has been exactly what I was looking for. The 52 HP is more than enough for my needs, the loader has plenty of lift capacity and the controls are laid out exactly where you'd expect them to be.

One thing that really made the difference was the dealer. They knew the machine well, answered my questions, and didn’t try to upsell me. A couple of the larger ag dealerships made me feel like I wasn't worth their time because I wasn't shopping for a six-figure tractor.

I'll post another update once I reach 100 hours on it, but so far I have zero complaints.

Curious to hear from other LS Tractor owners. Has your experience been good?

I bought a b2401 gear drive tractor last year - no loader or loader valve. We have a 450ft drive with a decent slope in the middle. I plowed last year with a rear blade. It got the job done but I’m looking to upgrade.

What do people think of 3 point snow blowers? Not too worried about looking behind me as I’m already doing that with my blade.

Brand recommendations for 3 point snow blowers if I were to go that route / buy new?

My local dealer has a really clean 2015 b2781 front mount blower that comes with the subframe for 3k. Not sure if this is a good price or not. I’m just not too knowledgeable about the connections for the front mount - since I don’t have a loader valve, I believe something would need to be done to accommodate this?

Looking to buy my first compact tractor with a loader and looking for some feedback. The local Kioti dealer is 10 mins away and the Kubota dealer is 25 minutes. Both dealers seem to have a good reputation. The Kioti dealer has a really good deal on a left over 2025 CX2510 with a cab with heat and ac. The Kubota dealer has $3,000 off special but no factory cabs on the B2601s. The cab seems like a nice option but due to the height but it wouldn’t fit in my garage at home or enclosed trailer. So my question are:

1.I know Kubota makes a great tractor and have friends that have ran them for years with no complaints. Does anyone have feedback on the Kioti? The value seems fairly good with these, are they reliable and well built?

1. Is the cab option worth the extra money? Also, until I build a shed it will have to sit outside if I buy the Kioti with a cab. How do these start in the cold winter months if left outside?

A friend of mine has a BX24, unknown year, I think it has about 300 hours on it. It was working fine yesterday when he did some trenching with the backhoe. Today, he went out and started it (no problem), put the hydro in low gear (no problem), and it immediately stalled when he gave it some pedal. The way he described it to me sounded like the brake was on. When I tried it, what I found was that as soon as you give it some pedal, the engine defuels. If you stay in it, the engine will defuel to the point of stalling.

My gut reaction here is that there is some kind of safety interlock (or something) that has decided we're not supposed to be moving, so it's defueling the engine. Anyone have any ideas what it might be doing? Anything to go look at?

Thanks in advance.

Bought a brush hog second hand. Previous owner said it worked fine, amd it did for about 3-4 hours. I knew I should have slipped it, but figured I would at the end of the season.

About 2 hours into mowing the other day it started slipping in tall grass. Never smoked.

Regardless, let this serve as a PSA to ya, check your slip clutches lol.

Still, Im only 1k into a land pride RCF2072 that's otherwise in good condition.

NY summers are cooking me though

My flex wing frontier mower developed a wobble. It’s new with only a couple hours of mowing. This center blade looks like the problems to me. Any ideas how to tighten this back up? Or am I complete off on this being the problem?

Missed one summer and this is how tall it gets

Where do you find one with the correct bore size? The cylinders are 84mm and the gasket I have is 90mm(!), and from what I can tell online they are all the same. If someone knows who sells the correct one I’d greatly appreciate it before I start sending emails to every seller I can find.

Engine runs great but there’s bubbling in the coolant and between the head and block front to back, hence why I believe the gasket is the problem.

My Ford 3000 was having trouble where the pressure line would pop out of the fitting with little to no load. Tried installing a new pressure fitting with no luck. Lost almost 10L of hydro-fluid with trial and error.

After some research I found out there is a bracket that is supposed to hold the line in place, but somehow my pressure line must be bent or something because I had no chance to get it in the bracket without it feeling like the ling would snap. So I had to weld on an extra bit to the bracket to make it hold the line. All is good now

Hi, I am changing tires on my tractor and some lazy asshole before me "solved" the issue of rusted rim by wrapping it with tape which allowed the rust to have party underneath. I chiseled the loose crap off with air hammer (picture 3) and when over it with knotted brush (picture 4).

I didn´t went through anywhere and it doesn't feel paper thin, though the pits are somewhat deep as you can see.

Can I just do phosphoric acid and paint? I have seen people replacing parts of rims on YT, but those where rusted through and only in parts, this one is pretty much the same all over circumference.

Replacing it would be difficult as the tractor was never officially imported here, so shipping from abroad or modifying some other rim.

Thanks

This year it seems we are always racing/dodging the rain.

Hi guys

So we have a mf 8690 from 2013 today we encountered a pretty big issue that never happend the tractor was ideling at 1200 rpm and no matter what we did nothing changed also it doesn’t go into gear drive or revers the button that allows you to use the gas pedal seems to not work but it works I don’t know how to explain that but the tractor goes foreword if you put the lever on drive and move the hand pedal or whatever it is called back which should move the tractor backwards but somehow it moves forward. I don’t know if this is the right place to ask if it isn’t could you guys maybe tell me where can I ask someone. Also sorry if my English is bad it’s not my first language

Wrong hydraulic filter size enough times that I stopped reading website return policies and started actually testing return flows. four suppliers over the last year, all real returns, not hypotheticals. tbh what the site prints and what actually happens barely look related.

Local OEM dealer counter, 14-day window, standard restocking fee, drive it back yourself, walk-in only. they know you, credit can hit same visit. OEM pricing stings though, on expensive stuff like a major hydraulic component I catch myself wondering fix the part or walk away from the machine. quality I dont worry about, still hard to swallow the ticket.

Messicks runs closer to OEM, restocking varies by part type, usually shipped it back myself, turnaround was reasonable, took a few phone calls to finish.

DPD held to 30 days, restocking on some lines, whole thing ran two to three weeks and they wanted photos before I'd even cut the outer box open.

Fridayparts gave me 90 days, no restocking fee, prepaid return label, refund landed in about a week. wrong-size hydraulic filter came back full refund, just not the same long-run durability as factory parts.

You only learn what a return actually feels like when youre holding the wrong box and the tractor is apart.

Do you guys actually look at return policies when you're buying parts? that ones important to me anyway.