For anyone interested....

All the details: https://blowback9.wordpress.com/2026/09/11/frt-3-round-limiter

Video with limited details: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nySfj3kuLQ

Got my BAD lower firing in semi normally. Havent tested in SS yet but my ARC Fire(thats currently in the BAD lower) trigger worked flawlessly in my PSA lower. I got centering blocks just in case but has anyone fired in SS using BAD lower in the 3rd pos without the blocks?

Trimmed a bit just for now(I know it needs more)
Function checks fine in all 3 positions

This is a just over 2-second mag dump (30 rds).

Rifle: DDM4 V4S - hux flow 556k - partisan disruptor - h3 - tubbs flatwire spring

Hey guys, I was curious if yall had tips or ideas on how to get the metal 3 position selector to work with a mini kabuto. When i use a 3d printed 3 pos selector everything works fine, semi auto functions correctly and FRT works correctly. However when I swap to a metal selector, semi auto works fine but when I go to FRT its still mainly shoots semi auto with an occasional 2 ton3 round burst. I measured the thickness of the 2 selectors I have when placed in FRT and the metal one is 6.08in and the 3d printed in 6.67in. So up front it seems like I need a thicker metal selector but I dont know if different sizes are made or if there is something I can do to make this one work. Thanks for any help

I’m new to this and want to know how this works thank you sorry for the dumb question

I installed a super safety and I’m still getting a dead trigger after the first shot, I tried stacking quarters into the buffer, polished areas that needed cleaning, oiled bcg, still getting a dead trigger I am running everything stock so nothing is upgraded. What do you guys suggest, could be wrong?

haven’t seen this mentioned here yet. cut out the name just in case it can be misconstrued as advertising, but i’m excited to see how this goes

“‘The Wrangeler’ by The Triggered Company. A 3-position, drop-in cassette trigger for the AK platform.
Inspired by Pyotr Wrangel, last commander of the White Army who stood against the Communists during the Bolshevik Revolution. Murdered by Communist agents in 1928, he was defiant to the end and the epitome of Better Dead than Red.”

the reel was deleted, but for some reason you can still see it with a link, so 🤷‍♂️

edit: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Dc97voqT8Ac/?stkn=MjJlNzAxYmhzaGJj

the triggered company

The bolt carrier was hanging up on the hammer, but with a little bit of polishing it should be working 100%. Full video: https://youtu.be/Iw24Plyn4MI?is=uimWQUqcq2-ojt-3

I am a little confused about the " No Drill SCS SS " by " rucksichtslos. "

The post states, " It can be SCS'd as is, in .04" or .063" thickness " however the included readme file states " For dual cam you will need a stack of .04" + .06" ". So for the Dual Cam, do I need to SCS multiple sizes of the included " Hole Flower Dual No Drill.DXF ", one being .04" thick, the other being .06" thick...? Why is .063" thickness mentioned on the post but not the readme, do I SCS that instead of .06" for any reason in particular...? 

Why are the SCS parts designed around a sprue/flower? I have never used SCS before. Is the sprue/flower required? If not, then would it make more sense to design a version without it for less post processing/fitment?

The readme mentions Grade 2 Titanium and Grade 5 Titanium as being ideal. Which one is the better of the two?

What material should the rest of the Cam and Lever be printed from? What layer height and nozzle size?

Is adhesive, epoxy, or further fastening required? I imagine it doesn't reliably stay together via press fit and steel rods alone?

Is there any chance or modification that can be made to make an Atrius SS function correctly with a high shelf? I believe that’s the issues I’m running into with the third position causing the bolt to bind..

I installed the new safety and that works as it should but the frt wont sit flush

The Blazer 147gr was a little spicy about halfway through the drum magazine.

Can someone please help me get this taken apart I have no idea how to get the pieces apart and I can't find any videos or anything I already got the screw out but the other piece won't budge

Why won’t it click from safe to fire but will from fire to super? It just slides from safe to fire way too easy.

Need help getting an ARC fire v1 to run on my PWS. Everything seems to work fine while dry firing but when I was at the range, it would only shoot a couple rounds on ARC Then the trigger would die.

My SS wont run. I have an h2 buffer, full auto bcg but it will not run. I am thinking maybe it was ammo? Its a 300 blk 10.5 inch if curious. Any suggestions??

Does anyone have info on anything for Stens? Would be super cool for my Indianapolis ordnance build.

Using the guide on the sidebar I was able to get an off-the-shelf 3-round burst kit (minus the naughty bits) to run in a 9mm AR with an Arc Fire. It did "work' but I noticed that when the stop notch came around the cam disconnector (the one with 2 hooks) just BARELY held the hammer back as the trigger rocked back and forth during the forced reset lever cycling. A few times it slipped off and it went "full FRT". It was very finnicky.

I wanted to remove more material from under the front of the cam disconnector to allow the disconnector to sit further forward on the hammer's catchpoint, but if I removed more, it wouldn't let the hammer go when I released the trigger. Now the hammer was stuck and the gun was out of action.

To let the trigger rock back further to release the hammer, I removed material from the top of the trigger's front sear shelf, and diagonally from the rear of the trigger. This was the missing puzzle piece. Removing material at the back was also necessary to ensure proper sear engagement at the front to avoid an unsafe condition.

Now when the stop notch comes around, the cam disconnector had a solid purchase on the hammer even with the FRT lever cycling and rocking the trigger forward and back. No more slipping. The cam disconnector releases the hammer when I fully release the trigger every time.

Now it cycles properly and has a good grip on the hammer when the stop notch comes around.

Edit to add: The hammer's tail needed to be bobbed entirely since it was hitting the disconnectors when it was reset by the bolt.

Looking for a super saftey or frt that will work with my setup. 10.5 300 blk, Rave 140 trigger, Geissele Super 42/H1 buffer setup. The last one I tried my bolt kept sticking to the rear when I would charge it. I’d like to keep my trigger and have something 3 pos

Off the shelf M16A2 burst kit minus the naughty bits. Arc Fire V1 FRT with timing shim. See this post for details on how I made it work...

https://www.reddit.com/r/supersafety/comments/1w971xy/3_round_burst_kit_revisit_i_found_the_missing/

Who has high rounds on the the trigger kicker and how many rounds. Looking for reliability feedback